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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

The power windows on my 89 toyota canry will not roll down or up. But the lock works what could be the problem?
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  • The speedometer on the car is off like 15 miles how do i fix it?
  • I've searched for about an hour and can't find answers to any of these problems, so I've started a new message.

    My 2001 Camry eats a quart of oil each month. I've had all leaks, seals, blah blah repaired, had it checked for oil gel, everything, by multiple mechanics. No one can discover the reason and I'm getting very annoyed.

    The second thing that just started today is that durng low speed turns, like in the parking lot (turning in either direction), there is a weird creaking noise from the front passenger side wheel. I will be calling the mechanic, but would like to get opinions so I have some clue what's going on.

    Finally, the car's CD player seems to actually damage CDs. You can put a brand new CD in there and soon it will start skipping. The more you play it in the car player, the worse it gets, and then after a bit it starts skipping in other players, too. I have cleaned the CDs carefully and I have also cleaned the CD player and none of these things have helped.

    I am running out of money to keep spending on mechanics, and my credit cards are already charged up from car expenses like tires and brake replacements. The Toyota dealership is the worst quality, slowest, and most expensive for service, too. I'm at my wit's end. Can anyone offer advice or ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • It probably must be replaced, but by getting a speedometer from the junkyard and then having a mechanic install it, it should not cost you a fortune. I'd recommend an independent mechanic for this...better value, etc.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You don't indicate the current mileage on the vehicle, or how many miles you drive each month which consumes a quart of oil. But here's a couple of comments...

    - Regarding your creaking when you turn the wheel, it could be the constant velocity joint (the joint where the drive shaft pivots at the front axle). If the car is driven hard, those joints begin to go first at the extremes of angles. It could also be some other suspension parts, like the strut.

    - Regarding the CD player, I'm guessing the cheapest solution is to replace it. By the time you have someone take it out and try to open it up to look at it, you could replace it.

    - Regarding your oil consumption. I think the first thing you need to determine is whether you are leaking it, or burning it. Since it sounds like you have had some seals replaced, I'm suspecting that it's not leaking anymore but it's burning it up. If so, I would expect that you would see blue smoke out of your exhaust. Do you see smoke only at start up (indicative of bad valve stems), or all the time?

    What is the history on this car (how many owners, mileage, etc), how hard has it been driven, and do you have/know the maintenance history of it? How religious were the oil changes done?
  • Driver door will not open. the linkage is fine, elect. lock works fine, after some investigation problem seems to be in the latch that connects to the door post. Problem is I cant get the door open to take off the door panel. The only solution I can come up with is cutting out the door panel. If you have any ideas please advise.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Ughh...tough one.

    Not sure if you can see down inside the window slot enough or not. This link might help with what the door striker looks like.

    doorstriker

    Good luck
  • diy_1diy_1 Posts: 6
    Hi, 4 weeks back my rad fan stayed on and won't stop even though the temp' outside is at minus point, it stop after 2 days, now it came back again, it start running when i turn the key to on ( without starting the engine ) and it stayed on after starting the engine ?? the temp' is below zero now and i don't think the rad fan should be on specially early morning when engine are cool?? hope it won't cause any damage to the car?? Please advise diagonistic and test?? any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Regards
    DIY-1 :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    First, check to make sure the a/c and defroster switch are turned off. Let me know the results.

    Normally, there are two things turning on the radiator fan. A temperature switch showing high coolant temperature, or the A/C clutch running.
  • diy_1diy_1 Posts: 6
    My a/c switch, defroster and even the fan switch is all off and the fan still stayed on?? do you think it will be the temp' switch?? i just had it changed last year, after market parts though.

    Thanks for your reply
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well there is the temperature switch, and 3 relays in the circuit.

    Why did you replace the temperature switch last year? What symptoms were you having, and how did you determine the switch was bad?
  • diy_1diy_1 Posts: 6
    Last year my Fan not working at all, the mechanix told me its the temp switch thats gone, so i had him flush the coolant and pop in a new temp switch and its working fine, it come on when the engine is heated. but now it stayed on always, i pull the connector plug to the fan now, so it would stop running, is it safe now, until i find a solution to fix it?? do u think its the temp' switch or the relay?? Thanks for ur advise.

    Regards
    DIY-1
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    With the engine cold, disconnect the wire to the temperature switch, verify that the radiator fan is still running. If the fan stops, then your temperature switch is bad.

    Assuming the fan is stil running after pulling the wire to the temperature switch, then pull the Radiator Fan Relay #3.

    If the fan doesn't turn off, the the problem is your Radiator Fan Relay #1. If the fan does go off when you pull Relay#3, let me know....as we'll have to figure out whether the problem is in Relay#2 or Relay#3.
  • diy_1diy_1 Posts: 6
    pheww after digging 30cm of snow, this is what i found.

    I pulled the wire to temp' swith not directly at the switch, but on top of the rad, there is another connector, connecting with the wire to the temp' switch. 2 wire in, 2 wire out.
    The fan still run, i pulled Rad' Fan Relay # 3, fan still run, then pull Relay # 2, fan # 2 goes off, then pull Relay # 1, Fan # 1 goes off??

    I tried the same with Dash fan turn off, defroster & A/C turn off, same result??
    do you think there is a ground broken somewhere ?? :cry:

    Thanks you so much for your patient.
    DIY-1
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your relay #1, it appears to be defective.

    The primary coil is on pins 1&2. 12V on pin #1, ground on pin#2.

    The secondary switched contact points are on pins 3&4. With pin 2 grounded, apply 12volts to pin 1, and verify that contact points are working correctly.

    Do not swap relay#1 with either of the other two relays. They are different.
  • diy_1diy_1 Posts: 6
    i have a multimeter and i can check for continuity, but when u say pin 2 grounded, do i actually tied a wire to it and then the body of the engine to create a ground??
    How do i apply 12V to pin 1 ?? sorry i am a newbie at this.

    Thanks
    DIY-1
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, connect a wire from pin2 to ground, either the negative post of the battery or any metal pice of the engine. Then apply a wire from the pin1 of the relay, and touch that wire to the positive post of the battery.

    When you are doing that, you want the continuity meter (measuring ohms), to be measuring across 3 to 4. You should see the meter change from infinite resistance, to no resistance, to infinite resistance as you connect and disconnect the voltage on the primary.

    I'm expecting you will find that your ohm meter never goes to infinite resistance across 3/4.
  • toyota camry just won't go..... on a clear and mild weather day the forward gears just seemed to just jump ship reving the engine seemed to give some push but realizing the catastrphy my daughter steered the car to a safe place and parked it out of the way. It is a 1996 toyota camry LE sedan, 99067 miles ,transmission never been rebuilt , the tranny seemed to stall occassionnly but with enough rev's would pic up and go....when I heard of this wile working construction in salt lake city Utah, I reccomended that she have the trans. flushed but to ofen repairmen would just shrugg and say they didn't want to risk further tranny problem and refused the work. Shure enough I hadn't been home long at all when she called on the side of the road sayin guess what...I'm in knox. tn. and my camry needs help...
    Well I've got the fluid out the filter off as well as solinoid 1&2 and as I was taking off the rear sol. I noticed the bolt was about two threads loose whaat would cause this and more important do you think these would cause the tranny to shut down or is the speed sensor suspect to, also is there a way to bench check these to see if possibly the loose bolt was the problem...
    Thanks so much for your help
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi folks, 99 camry 4 cyl, 165,000 miles, I lost the intermitten feature on my wipers and they stop on windshield now as opposed to returning to the cowl. other than that they work fine. Should I start at the wiper motor or switch? also what kind of job am I looking at if it is a switch? I have had good luck as a do it yourselfer with some automotive education. Thanks Ryan
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    ryan,

    Check your carspace mailbox ryan99. Access your mailbox via the 'Mailbox' tab, upper right hand corner.
  • Hello, Kiawah,
    I have the exact same problem as ryan99 regarding the intermittent wipers on my '97 Camry - is it the switch or is there a separate solenoid I can easily change out? I do have auto repair do-it-yourself experience.

    Appreciate your help.

    Phil63
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
  • Thanks so much Kiawah, I really appreciate it.

    Phil63
  • I own a 1995 Toyota Camry 2.2 engine. Recently I gauge inside said the engine was getting hot. I checked my radiator fluid and it was good. I then changed the Thermostat, relay fan switches, Temp sensor and Radiator Coolant sensor and still the gauge is getting hot. I was told there is another relay switch for the radiator but can't seem to place where it goes. I checked and both the fans are working which tells me the fan relay switches are working but I can't seem to figure out what I am missing and why I can't seem to fix the problem. Anybody else have this issue and figured a solution? :sick:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'd check to see if the waterpump was pumping. With the engine cold, take off the radiator cap. Turn on the engine and allow it to idle. The thermostat would be closed at this point, and you would have no flow. As the engine warms up, the thermostat should begin to open and you should see the coolant begin to move. The hotter the engine gets, the more the fluid should move.

    You might also check to make sure you don't have a lot of crude in your radiator, blocking the coolant flow thru the radiator.
  • Looking for a picture and location of a 2001 Toyota Camry light sensor module.

    Warning light coming in saying "replace brake light". All brake lights are working. Assuming problem is light sensor module.

    Would appreciate any one's help with on-line source for a picture and purchase sight.

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not sure how you concluded a replace brake warning light, is a possible problem with a light sensor.

    I'd suggest taking it to an autoparts chain, and have them read the error codes for you (or buy your own reader and do it yourself). Let's see if we can get an error code which will point you to the right area.
  • Hi,
    I just purchased a Toyota Camry xle v6 from a seller.
    It has 74k miles on it.
    I got it inspected from Pepboys before purchasing it.
    It seems the previous owner has not done any 60k servicing to the car.
    Can you folks please suggest me what are the things to be done. This is my first car, so i dont have much knowledge about this.
    Thanks
  • pete60pete60 Posts: 1
    I HAVE A SV22R AND IT IS OVERFUELING IT RUNS AS THOUGH IT HAS GOT THE CHOKE ON BUT NO. IT DOES FLOOD THE CARB. IT SEEMS AS IT IS GOT TO MUCH FUEL PRESSURE BUT DONT KNOW IF IT HAS A REGULATER SENSOR PLEASE HELP
  • fergytfergyt Posts: 1
    1999 camry Le with 150K miles. there is $2000 front end body damage. The rest of the car is of average quality. Does not seem to be any mechanical problems. Still runs, uses 1/2 quart of oil per month. New tires, brakes (1 year ago). Water pump etc replaced at 109K. I guess the options are fix or sell for parts. Trying to decide what to do.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Did you get an owner's manual packet? It has the maintenance recommendations in it.
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