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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • c_laytc_layt Posts: 2
    Thank you so much!!! I bent the little bits of fuse wire inside the 30amp fuse to reconnect them and now get the higher voltage. Im off to town to get a new fuse and see if the wreckers can order me in a new master switch, might take me a while to get my hands on one but ill do a follow up post and confirm its working. Thank you again
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Excellent, congrats....glad it worked out.
  • Hi,
    I have a 2001 Camry Collectors Edition. Regular oil changes/maintenance. Recently the check engine light went on, at first the dealer said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. Then they called back, saying they are having a hard time taking off the oxygen sensor because the manifold may be broken and they may have to replace the manifold? This is going to cost $1300 per the dealer, and I was wondering if there was a TSB or something covered under any kind of warranty to reduce the costs. My car only has about 46000 miles.
    Mahalo!!
  • sliroesliroe Posts: 1
    2005 Camry drivers side door does not lock or unlock automatically with the drivers side door electrical switch or keychain pog. Door will unlock mechanically with key turn. The 3 other doors and trunk do open with keychain pog and drivers side door switch. Door does unlock mechanically inside when individual door lock lever is swung inside door. Typically unless I want to use my key if I have a passenger I need them to manually reach over and unlock the drivers door. Door latch works fine. I typically do work on my car myself. Anyone know how to trouble shoot or what part I should replace?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take the inside of the door panel off, and check the linkages from the door lock to the actuator.
  • I have 2001 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinders. I have owned the card since Jan 05 / 87K miles. I well-maintained the car since . The car is currently @ 140k miles. Here is what is going on with my car.

    - When I bought the car, I used to get 33 MPG on average between Highway/City driving.

    Lately (5 month ago), the car MPG went down to 22 MPG. I took the car to mechanic shop, which changed Air/Fuel filters, spark plugs , balanced tires, did some other tune ups . These misc. repairs did not result in any improvements.

    - In the last year or so, every time I speed up to 60 MPH or more usually in highway, I either smell burnt rubber or any bad smell.

    - Two days ago, check engine light came on; the mechanic put it in computer which indicated problem with catalytic converter.

    Any idea what is going on with my car? Are all these issues related? Any suggestions to fix the MPG issue?

    Appreciate help in this regard
  • Should I avoid purchasing a 1995 Camry wagon (4 cyl/2.2L) with 125,000 miles that appears to have been well maintained? How could one possibly know if the engine will develop the sludge problem? What exactly could be the cause in engines with regular maintenance? Owners of this generation either love it or hate it. How can this be?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    It will be as good or better than any car with 125,000 miles - as long as the proper maintenance was done, it will be fine. Consumers Reports shows no major issues with this year or generation, in fact, it is extremely reliable.
  • Iwas wondering if you got any answers. I had a 1994 Camry (4cyl.) with 140k. The rod snapped, went through the engine block, damaged other parts and the engine is "toast". They said the sludge build-up was the probable cause (poor maintenance) but I or the shop changed the oil every 3-4k. It was agreat car otherwise, but makes me leary about a new camry. The engine should have lasted longer. Any ideas as to how to prevent such a problem?
  • :confuse: I recently had a problem where my engine would hesitate then try to cut out. Well after i turn it off for 1/2 hour then startedback up it was fine. Well i took it to an auto parts store and the guy in there hooked up the scanner got no codes. Ive had this problem for a year now and noone knows how to fix it. Well after he took off the scanner a new light came on that said vsc/trac off. the light will not go off. When i first start driving it the light is off the after 60 seconds light comes on and stays on. Ive been reading different things about what this light is for. Can someone tell me is it just an indicator that breaks need to be replaced? And is it safe to drive with light on?
    :)
  • I had the same engine sludge problem. i actually got a recall notice from Toyota last year and received a new engine. I had to produce the receipts for my oil changes and they changed it for free. You may want to check into that with toyota.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The two problem are unrelated I would think. You need to see a mechanic you can trust (doesn't have to be the dealer). The VSC/Trac off means your electronic stability control and traction control systems are not functioning. You can still drive the car safely for the time being.
  • your car is out of warr. the problem is the o2 sensor will sieze in the exhaust manifold. my question is what made the o2 sensor come on. did they just read the code and not the freeze frame data. i would ask to recheck.
  • thanks for the response. it ended up not being the manifold. for some reason, the o2 sensor was "stuck?". it ended up costing almost $600, mostly for labor charges. after the fact, i had a coworker who said he could have done it for around $150. :cry:
  • Ok, its funny though that the light came on. It only did so after the guy at the auto parts store hooked up his computer to see if there were any codes for the first thing. Is it possible that he hit a button and turned it off through the computer? Also, does it have to do with the breaks? Do they need to be checked? would worn break pads cause the problem? :confuse:
  • Writing in from Boston, where as of today it has been frigidly cold for about 5 days. About 9 days ago I filled up my tank. Since filling up, much to my horror, my mileage has sunk from an average of 25 mpg to about 14mpg. Went to the dealer to check this out. Air and oil filters are fine. Tire pressure is fine. They suggested on fuel injection cleaner system at $100+ and I passed per professional (outside the dealership, my usual mechanic) advice. They saw my coolant and tranny fluids were dirty and I went ahead and changed them out. I also changed oil as it was due.

    Three questions:
    The dealership can't explain the drop in my mileage except for the cold. Can it all be blamed on this reason, or is there something else to look at?

    According to them, my tranny and coolant fluids were dirty. I last changed them at 46K. Is this normal to need to do after 30K? Can this (wishfully) explain the mileage problem?

    They put a sticker in my car to remind me of 5,000 mile oil change, but I thought the conventional wisdsom was back to 3,000. Any ideas?

    Thank you!
  • stujstuj Posts: 2
    I started the car to warm up one cold morning and went back in the house, The car was parked on a steep sideways hill and after a few mins it apparently ran out of fuel I went out to leave after an hour and it had run the battery down (with ignition, fan, and lights on). I set a battery and jumpers under the hood and released the ignition and put it in neutral and rolled it back to flat ground. I cranked fuel into it once flat and it started right up. Now,,,,,, I have no dash gauges, no heater fan, no running lights, no temp, no fuel level, no tach, no speedo, no windows. I am puzzled. Headlights work, but no overdrive on the freeway.
    can someone offer me a starting place to diagnose what is wrong and how to fix it. I am curious on theories of what caused this. Thanks in advance
    stu_johns@hotmail.com
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your 100Amp ALT fuse, I think you'll find it fried.
  • stujstuj Posts: 2
    Thanks,, 100 AMP is fine,, looked good and even took it out and checked it.. any other ideas? Stu
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Stu,

    Check your hotmail, sent you a picture that will help. Focus on identifying the items that are working and not working. You may be downstream one fuse from the 100ALT, if you can verify a device on one of the tree limbs off the 100ALT is working okay.

    Good luck
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