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I recently Bought a 2001 Stratus Rt with all the bells and whistles. But the service engine light keeps coming on. I'm Going in for a tune up and oil change(The sparks look like they've never been changed, but the car still runs great, just a slight ticking noise sometimes). Would the sparks cause the light to some on? And If it were a misfire wouldn't I hear or feel it? It has 64k on it and I bought it for blue book any comments.....???
I drive mostly city driving, but I drive only 2,000 miles a year at slow speeds, with some highway driving at 65 mph a few times a month. When approaching an intersection, I slow down, causing the car to downshift one gear, then slowly take my foot off the brake and gently ease on the gas as opposed to coming to a complete stop since there is no traffic and stop and go will damage the transmission even worse. Can anyone tell me what that is and what to do about it?
2. My valves have been tapping somewhat noisy and not only am I looking for a proper way to quiet them, but I'm looking to prevent any further damage from happening to them so I need a proper lubrication viscocity combination for winter driving and summer driving.
If I use 4 quarts of 10W-30 in the summer, the engine still overheats, telling me I need slightly thicker oil to remove the excess heat. Recently, I put in 3 quarts of 10W-30 and 1 quart 10W-40. It said on the bottle that 10W-40 is good for stop and go driving and driving from cold starting, although I let the engine warm up before driving.
I've noticed small amounts of white smoke out of the exhaust, slight overheating and louder valve tapping until the 10W-40 goes into the cylinder head. If I don't drive the car at high speeds, it seems like the 10W-40 does circulate through the engine as it should.
Should I use less 10W-40, like only 1/4 a quart and the rest 10W-30 or should I use 10W-30 and a certain amount of oil treatment or special oil lubricant? Is the 10W-40 damaging the engine if the oil is being burned in the cylinders? Does it reduce the horsepower or engine life by using 10W-40? Thank you for your response.
My stratus is actually at the shop today again to see what the problem is (again). One problem I had was a bad sway bar that needs replaced, the other problem is the eratic idling (again). I'm just waiting to hear from the dealer to see what they say the problem is....
Thanks!
And yes my stratus also has rough idles at red lights and will surge at times when in a drive thru after I apply the break when after accelerating. And oh yes.... that damn creaking sound from the front when turning. Dodge just needs to issue recalls on all of these problems because it seems that everybody is experiencing the same problems. Anybody agree???
I've had my 2004 Stratus SXT in the shop 10 FULL DAYS just this year. Once it hit 2 years old, it all went to hell. I keep taking it to the dealer for the rough idle and they keep telling me they don't feel it... well it shakes so bad I feel like its going to explode... and they can't feel that???? To them thats normal???? Funny how it never did that before. I am so angry with my car. I love it, it looks sharp, very comfortable (beside my broken seat back that clicks everytime I stop and go which the dealer said is not broken)but I dont know what to do with it. I am worried that when the warranty runs out in November that I'm going to be stuck with a lot of problems and repair bills that I really cant afford. I wish they would recall the rough idle problem because alot of us have that problem...
Thanks!!!
This time... I'm hearing loud noises and feeling vibrations when I place my hand on the gear shift (it's automatic) that is between seats. I thought it would be road noise but I do not recall having something like this loud. It's so loud that I had to turn the music up high to hear.
The loudness starts when I hit 45 kms (I'm in Canada, we use kms instead of mph) It's not my muffler, as I just had the thing replaced few months ago... it's not even the pipe that is attached to the muffler. Any ideas what could be causing the noise?? :confuse:
Anyone had any problems with their Stratus's oil light flashing on when you are stopped/idling? Mine has been doing this for a month now. It will flash erratically, then eventually stay on and flash off again. The car isn't making any noises or doesn't feel any different. It will go away if I put it in neutral and rev up the engine. Only does it when it's idling under 1000 RPM's.
It doesn't do it all the time either, so I haven't brought it in to the dealer yet, why pay the money for them not to see the problem.
Any help?
Also, when starting my car, it seems that the engine wants to blow itself clean off the chassis and fly right through the hood it shakes so bad. Did Dodge install crappy engine mounts in these cars or what? Is this the engine telling me that it'll run better if the timing belt is replaced?
Furthermore, it seems that the engine has a slight overheating problem on occasion. I use 3 or 4 quarts 10W-30 and 1 quart 10W-40 for additional lubrication to the crankshaft, valves, journals, etc. My PCV Valve is whistling its little heart out. Is the engine telling me to use only the proper 10W-30 or that the 10W-40 is coking the engine even though its not that thick and has not been used a lot.
Another problem I have is with my brakes. Not only does it seems several of my brake calipers continously not want to release themselves when I get off the brakes, but this is happening, again, just after I had them damn things cleaned and fixed.
Also, I do not have a properly usable emergency brake. Provided, I screwed up and left the e-brake handle up when I just started to pull out of the gas station, but it shouldn't have messed up my e-brakes. Hell, the E-brakes in my old Cadillac held up better than that.
How should this stuff be permanently fixed? Install new calipers, rotors, brake linings, vacuum lines, vacuum pump, timing belt, etc., etc.? Should I run this car into the ground? Even though this car isn't too bad, should I solve everything with a 5 gallon gas can?
I'm telling ya, Ford, now Dodge is practically keep giving me more and more reasons to continuously purchase imports like Mazda, Toyota, Mitsubishi, and BMWs. And Dodge is telling the public the good old, dependable cars of the 1970s are coming back. Yeah, right...
Spending $40,000 on a new Dodge Challenger that just shows off that the driver is a muscle-bound yahoo with a gigantic engine but extremely small penis, give off lots of maintenance problems, and severely depreciate several years down the line... Or buy a new $67,000 imola red BMW M3.... I'll take the BMW. At least it shows that you are a car affectionado (not a yahoo), get everything in a car that you want, can go 160 MPH, and get laid with a car like that.
I have a problem starting my car after it sits overnite. It seems to crank a long time before firing up. It will not start with the remote starter, untill the 2nd time...then it is fine. After it is started it fires right up like normal. Any Ideas??
To begin, check your spark plugs and spark plug wires. Are they damaged, oil fouled, too far a spark gap, too close a spark gap, wrong size, is there pitting, eroded spark plugs, are the probes burnt or carbon coated. Because this can reduce proper igntion, increase fuel consumption, and decreased engine efficency and power. Are these plugs designated for summer or winter use? "Hot plugs" are used in the winter and "cold plugs" are used in the summer. "Hot plugs" get hot during igntion and shouldn't be used in the summer because it can lead to overheating if driving an extended period of time. Short distances don't really need to worry. "Cold plugs" run cold during summer to prevent overheating, but can't be used during winter because the engine won't start because its too cold for igntion. Also, stay within 1 or 2 grades of the current plugs in your car or engine damage will occur. If it is a "3" cold plug, change it to a "2" cold plug or in the winter go to a "0" plug or "1" Hot plug.
Next, is the fan belt or timing belt somewhat loose or has the insides of the belt chewed up? Even though it has a tensioner, the engine's timing and valves can get really screwed up all because of a stupid timing belt that doesn't last worth a damn. I don't know why they don't just stick to timing chains instead, unless they want you to destroy the engine and make you spend even more cash on parts.
Third, how powerful is the starter motor? If it is getting weaker than what it should usually run, maybe it needed momentum to crank the engine, and once there is gas in the cylinders, maybe all the engine has to do is rely on the igntion system to fire the engine up and it'll kick right over. Unfortunately, this problem may start flooding the cylinders and overpower the engine, leading to more damage.
Fourth, how powerful is your fuel pump and is there any restrictions in your fuel delivery/ fuel return system? does the fuel system leave air in the lines and this leaves you to "bleed" the lines everytime by throttling up before starting the car? Because, later on, this can lead to even more problems with your fuel system and may eventually end up making the vehicle fail emissions inspections since it is either using too much gas or burning too much fuel to allow the car to run, or not properly burning the fuel at all.
Continuing on the fuel problems, is there a leak in your fuel lines? Does the car deliver hesistation problems, stalling, bucking, that sort of thing? Is the fuel pump regulator operating properly? Smell the area around the muffler after vehicle startup. If the regulator is broken, the muffler will spew a bad odor of gas out the back. If it fails, it has problems starting up all by itself and will need a gentle tap on the gas to start up. Unfortunately, the car will run rich because the fuel pressure regulator can't reduce the fuel flow the powerful fuel pump is delivering and just makes more unburned fuel go out the exhaust pipe.
BMWs have the same problem since they have Bosch continuous flow digital fuel injection. Dodge doesn't have continuous flow, but rather, standard digital fuel injection which relies on fuel injector pulses. This system is not as efficient as in a BMW, but lasts just long enough for average American mileage.
Also, how long are you leaving the car to sit before starting it or driving it? If you are driving it, how many miles are you putting on it a year and how many owners and drivers before you had this car and were they abusing it? Are you allowing this car to warm up before driving it? What kind of engine oil are you putting in it? Are you using only 10W-30 for normal driving or are you putting mostly 10W-30 and a little 10W-40 for low mileage driving or stop and go driving?
Thanks
This is only occurring while braking from, say, 60 mph to a stop. Not getting this 'effect' when braking up to 40 mph. It's like the brakes work fine braking from 60 down to 20 mph, then the pedal suddenly depresses without any further braking! Fortunetly, that last inch before the pedal bottoms out against the floorboard stops the car.
I did have the brake power booster replaced around 2 years ago, this feels eerily similar...
Anyone got any thoughts or experience on this???
thanks!
then i found this site and read a post about PCM FUSE (# 5) located under the hood (power distribution center) found that it was burned out, replaced it with the spare (found on the interior driver side fuse box). so far its been fine.. ill post again when it happens,
from what i've read its bound to be sooner than later. hope this helps
we were the first owner of this car and always had regular tune up and maintenance. but still had similar problems described by other dodge owners.. head gasket, banging noise from breaks, oil leaks etc.. but is still in very great shape. car has about 70,000 miles and maybe spent $3,000 in over-all repairs. lucky, today was the first time it did the "no start" issue.. but i'm not gonna wait around for the problems to get worse, last time i buy a dodge.
when i replaced the blown pcm/abs fuse car started fine..
turned off ignition. and later that day i got in the car turned the ignition and fuse burned again... dont know why.. tried calling dodge for appointment, 30 minutes ago.. and 'im still on hold... any help would be appreciated