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Sure hope I don’t miss my flight.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm looking for a 2002 325 with
metal paint, PP, HK, rear bags, leather, xenons.
Cutter Motors in Santa Barbara will sell for cost plus $1450, which for this car is $32,970 (incl $250 MACO but excl tax, title, paperwork).
A local dealer will do $33,430 (incl floor mats).
1) I'm surprised they are so close.
2) Yet money is money, and a $500 difference is a difference.
3) Yet again, it's a good idea to spend it where you earn it.
4) For reference, MSRP for this car is $34,130 (if I'm adding correctly), so the local price amounts to $700 off.
Perhaps I should visit the local dealer with my wife and my checkbook to see if the deal can be improved.
Advice?
Thanks and best wishes,
Ed
PS I post all this detail hoping that it will be of value to someone else.
The Contessa (another tough cookie) replaced the Ambassador about 10-12 years ago as the peoples choice, since it resembled a more modern car.
Have fun on your trip.
Yes, it's been several years since I was there last, so I'm looking forward to seeing the changes. I'll have to try the MacAloo Tikki Burger that I read about.
anyway...I'm going to Mumbai and Goa (Calangute beach, Panaji)...do you have anything to add to my must see/do/eat/buy list?
shipo:
I doubt you would miss your flight, especially as the airport would be nearly empty at that time. ...oh wait, he's already on his way to Taipei.
I have also found dealers here (Toronto area) much less inclined to discount the cars for local delivery, but this was a few months ago...
Off Topic
I hate the idiots who arrive 5 minutes before the plane takes off. Some People do it on purpose because they know they will be rushed to the head of the check in line and the airline will do everything in its power to ensure they make their flight.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
curious: how'd you folks with summer tires do in the ice/snow/mixed garbage we had this weekend in the northeast???
-Chris
I feel your 2 hr 20 min time window is good but may be a bit tight. My credential is I fly every week - before and after 9/11, before and after last friday's new security measurement (I know sadly I fly too much but that is how I can make my ED trip totally free :->). Not familiar with Newark. The most times you'd spend to get to your flight are in check-in counters and security checkpoints. From your schedule, you seem will fly on NWA. If you are a premier member, you can cut the counter time to 10 min depending on counter traffic. (keep in mind, the airlines will not check you in unless you are at least 30 mins before your flight scheduled time). But the lines at the security check point are normally much longer and slower. Unless NW has a special check point for its premier members, give to that at least 15-20 passing mins to be safe. Also give a bit cusion on your cab ride.
Good luck. Eat well in Taipei! Bring some of the pink stuff if you are not used to the authentic Chinese food. :->
Have you contacted VOB BMW ? I was able to get $1790 over invoice for my 330i (not a huge difference from your price). The salesman was also very cordial. I test drove 3 different cars at 3 different times - I was evaluating the 325i, 330xi, and 330i. Each time, he just gave me the keys and asked if there was anything he could do - no pressure. He was also very open and honest about the 2002 invoice increases, and we worked out the deal in less than 30 minutes. I had also contacted other dealers and gotten some pricing. VOB offered me the best deal at that time, so it was pretty easy to make a decision.
Odyssey and had no problems. :-)
When I got home, I plowed my driveway and took the BMW out to see what would happen. I couldn't get out of the driveway. The grade is minimal... a rise of about 7 feet in a distance of about 75 feet. I made it about 3/4 of the way up before hitting some icy stuff and that was it. With TCS on, the car just sat there trying to figure out what to do and with it turned off, the rear would step out and forward progress ended. Fortunately, I could put my baby back in the garage, clear off the Altima, and head out. Unfortunately, my BMW got dirty...
My Maxima is loaded, and in excellent condition, though it will be buck-up against the mileage limit for the lease. If they try to nail me on the trade, then I guess I could buy-out the lease and sell the car myself, or just wait until the lease is up to buy the BMW, and return the car to Nissan (This could be complicated, because I may be over my miles by then).
One reason I lease is that I hate the trade-in negotiation. I almost always feel cheated. I've also heard of people who ordered cars and then had the dealer renege on the trade agreement when the new car arrived. When that happens, you're pretty much at their mercy, especially if your current lease is up and there is not time to reorder. So I was leaving a couple of months slack in case there is an order snafu or I have to start over again.
There is one rub to leasing different models of car in succession. I have found that if you release from the same manufacturer, they will forgive miles and even a few months(and almost anything else within reason) to get you into another one of their cars. That doesn't apply when you change brands.
1pierce - curious (or maybe i missed something). how do you figure you are gonna get the value of the residual of your leased car on a trade?
-Chris
kominsky - how is a 7-ft change in elevation over 75 feet minimal? That change would equate to a 9.33 degree slope. I am surprised you made it even halfway from a stop with the 245's in the rear...
5.3 would be the slope angle... (i.e. when looked at from a "degree" standpoint, kominski would be correct, when looked at as a percentage, brave would be correct (assuming he used percent instead of degrees)...
-Chris
Thanks for the reply.
grade = climb/distance. so in this case, a 7 foot climb over 70 feet (roughly), would be a 10% grade. as follows:
7/70=.10
.10*100=10%
just make sure you convert everything to the same units...
-Chris
1) bmw dealers don't sell maximas, so if he "buys" it from you, he's going to turn around and sell it at auction, and it's unlikely he'll get within 2k of "retail" at the auction. plus why does he want to deal with that aggravation?
2) as difficult as it might be, your best bet would be to sell it yourself. as you pointed out, you got a heckuva deal on this car.
3) even if he was going to sell it himself, judging from what "dealer types" out here (and in other places) say, 4k is probably closer to the number in their mind than 2k (don't forget, they are going to have to put some money into it to resell it, plus store it and so on), if they sell it for 18k and buy it from you for 16k, that 2k isn't all profit. plus (again, from the dealer's standpoint), used cars are a big profit land for them. they probably wouldn't make enough money on your car for it to be worth it to them.
i'm not doubting you can do it. i'm just wondering whether or not you'll find a dealer who WILL do it. there's no great motivation for him to do so.
good idea on not going upside down. that's financial suicide...
-Chris
I'm in the process of getting a new 325i sedan and I had a few questions about the dealer installed alarm. Is it worth it? How much should I expect to pay?
Also, I read in the brochure that as part of the "vehicle memory" system, you can have a motion detector activated. Does that require the alarm, or is it separate? Is there an additional cost involved?
Now, about the extended warranty--is it necessary? How much should I expect to pay?
Thanks
The extended warranty is not necessary and NOT worth it. It goes for $450-650
The extended service is a bit of a question in my mind. $400 for the fourth year 14k miles. Does that make sense? Do you really need a set of brakes in that time?
For example, New Jersey Manufacturer's Insurance Company asks the following questions to figure out what discount they'll apply to your policy:
1. What type of anti-theft device is installed in your vehicle? Click on all that apply.
( ) Alarm system with horn, bell, siren, or other sounding device.
( ) Ignition or starter cut-off device to prevent the vehicle from starting.
( ) Fuel cut-off device to prevent the vehicle from starting or running.
( ) Armored cable or electronically operated hood lock AND ignition cut-off switch.
( ) None of the above. (Skip to question #3.)
2. How is the device activated?
( ) Removal of the ignition key and performance of a separate manual step (e.g., locking doors, setting a switch, using a remote control).
( ) Removal of the ignition key only.
3. Does a steel clamp/collar (such as "The Club") cover the steering column?
Yes No
4. Is there a permanently attached steering wheel lock operated by a tubular key (other than the ignition key)?
Yes No
5. Is there a lock on the emergency handbrake that can be released only by entering a preset digital combination?
Yes No
6. Is a steel-encased lock permanently attached to the floor to prevent movement of the gearshift?
Yes No
7. Does a high-security replacement lock device or protective cap prevent access to the ignition lock cylinder?
Yes No
8. Is the vehicle identification number (VIN) etched into all windows of the vehicle?
Yes No
9. Is there a pulse, signal or satellite tracking device by which the location of the vehicle may be tracked by the police or a central monitoring station?
Yes No
Disclaimer: I've been a satisfied NJM customer for 10+ years. If you're in NJ, they offer some of the best rates around.
Their website is: http://www.njm.com
-hh
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I think most, nearly all, 3rd party extended warranties are not a good insurance bet. Either the contract or the company isn't what it should be. Think only the manufacturer's warranty is worth it. I'd only go BMW CPO. You pay more but you get a better contract and more stable company.
heatmiser1 Jan 4, 2002 4:45pm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600686424&r=0&t=0
-Chris
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
ccotenj: Good points. I'll give it a try and see what happens. I guess their only incentive would be if they wanted to sell the car today, rather than wait and take a chance that I would buy somewhere else. I really don't want to take a chance on trying to sell it myself. People are much more leery buying an expensive used car off a private owner than from a dealer. If I can't trade it on the Bimmer, I'll probably wait until the lease is up and return it. That will be torture, though, as I'll have to wait until August to get my new car.
i hear you on selling it yourself too. when i bought mine, i could have sold my mustang for more than i got for it, but:
1) i didn't want to bother advertising
2) i didn't want strange people coming to my house
3) i didn't want to deal with all the wheeling and dealing and nickle and diming
4) and so on...
good luck. hopefully you'll find someone who'll make you a workable deal.
-Chris
maybe one of them flashes in neon??
-Chris
Oh, and what are your thoughts on buying pre-owned "USED" certified BMW vs. a new one. The interest rates seem to be cheaper for new cars....vs used ones. The used ones (say two years old) are however a bit cheper (not that much it seems).
Was thinking only of a used one (say '99 or '00) 3 Series. But, the prices don't seem to be that much cheaper......makes me think about financing another few thou. and get the new car.
Thanks for your input.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD