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Got my IPD catalogue yesterday and noticed that they have a device (US$~170.00) that you can use on your own to clear these things. ipdusa.com is the url.
Took in my 2000 HT for it's 30,000.
$562.36 in all.
That included the $22.00 for the wiper blades and the $160 in labor for the brakes. I bought the brakes from IPD and they were about $65 for front and rear.
Arm rest cup holders finally broke and I spent $40.00 on that.
17" tires cost around $330 a pop (I think).
Overall, I think you're going to see higher costs with the HT coupes however, everything that has gone wrong with mine has been under warranty. Get the extended warranty if you get one of these. I've had the stereo replaced 3 times but that's mainly because driving in Chicago is the equivalent of offroading and those coupes aren't tremendous at shock absorption.
I am also having problems with the car sticking in gear. There have been times when I can't get it into drive from reverse. Very scary when backing out of a driveway. One time it would not start at all and it was towed 200 miles to a dealer who told me that the gear shift was stuck and the car did not think it was in park. He was unable to duplicate the problem and no faults to the computer. Anyone else ever experience anything like this?
I love the car but I seriously think this particular one has some problems in the brain. I am considering getting a 2002. Anybody experience these kinds of problems with a 02? Thanks for the input
Did you buy the accessory wind screen? If not, I highly recommend it. You won't believe the difference it makes. Tmart
Craig
Also, ccarter, ask them if they checked the connections from the radio to the antena (if there is such a thing). Maybe the problem lies there.??? Other than that, I have no idea.
10.EQUIPMENT:ELECTRIC POWER
ACCESSORIES:ANTENNA
NHTSA Number:
SB610598
Bulletin Number:
3390016
Bulletin Date:
MAR 2000
Vehicle: 1999 Volvo C70
Summary:
SUBJECT REGARDING MODIFICATION TO THE POWER ANTENNA GROUND STRAP
TO IMPROVE FM RADIO DISTRUBRANCE / STATIC.
ps : anyone have problems with synthetic oil after 100,000 km = 60,000 mi ?
pps : can anyone recomend a nice wing that has looked nice on a C70 ?
You may wish to go to ipdusa.com. They have a ton of items for the Volvo.
Only thing that I can think of is going to a junkyard to see if they have any wrecked Volvos. It's a lot easier here in Chicago. One just places an order with the friendly neighborhood fix-it guy and has it the next day. Tend not to ask questions afterwards, if you know what I mean.
*wink*wink*nudge*nudge*
Called Tweeter in Houston - they didn't have one. They thought that you should be able to get in touch with Alpine and they would help you out (2pack for $30).
Called Becky at Circuit City (Houston) @ 4500 San Felipe St.(627-2500). THEY HAVE ONE. I told her my friend Tommy was going to come in to get it. If you go in there and tell Becky that you're a friend of Craig's she'll sell it to you for $10 (normaly $20 but it's probably out of the package or something). Told her that you may be in by the weekend.
Looks like it's just off the loop, just south of I-10.
Let me know how it works out. If it doesn't you can always go directly to Alpine.
Craig
I got my 2000 C70 with 17" alloy rims and Pirelli P6000 tires. One of the Pirellis started bulging out at the sidewall after 10K miles, and Pirelli refused to replace it under warranty (claimed it was a road hazard). Now, 5,000 miles later, I've had another one do the same. @ $250/tire, This is an expensive annoyance.... Has anyone else experienced similar tire flaws with the Pirellis that came with with the car? I'm wondering if their is a history of quality problems with the tires they delivered to Volvo. Thanks
Are these just the exceptions.. not the rule?
Most posts on any bulletin board tend to be problems because there is no need to compare notes on non-problems. Take a look at any of the Honda sites and you would think you were buying a Yugo.
Also, what tire pressure do you run??
Dickmorin: Pilot SFX (I think) 32 or 33lbs. I'll check tonight and let everyone know.
Forbesandrew: I think there have been a ton of things on the tires (Pirellis) on this post but keep in mind that one of the things this post does is highlight issues so that resolution can be found. Not many people get on here and totally rave about their cars. I agree with dfwk with my 2000 that all my issues have been minor and quickly resolved. As far as raving goes....
Guys - Got my 2000 HT up to 125 on the way down to Indianapolis for a golf tournament the other day. Had to back off because my wife finally noticed the noise of the wind wipping past the side view mirrors and freaked out. She had no idea that we were going so fast. hehe
Craig
Haven't hit the century mark yet. Fastest so far has been 95 and still rock solid with more pedal still available.
Re the tires: Since I had the Discount Tire certificates, the replacement tires were P6000's. Can't complain with getting 4 for $150.
Tires - I have the Michelin Pilot SX 225/45 - 17. You guys can always go to 'TireRack.Com' to do research on the tires (user reviews). The Michelin's have been exceptional for me so will probably get them again. TMart obviously has not had many problems with the P6000 and I am guessing that he uses his car frequently. I have heard about the P's being soft such that if the car sits for an extended period of time the tires will develop a 'flat spot' and cause shimmying while driving. I'd also think that location has something to do with it as well. My weather extremes are a bit different than TMart's down in Houston where it hasn't reached 60 degrees since the Cubs won the World Series.
Except for two problems with the P6000's, I've been very pleased with them. The first was a roaring sound when slowing down, from 25MPH to zero. Started around 12k miles. Didn't make the sound when accelerating. Dealer replaced the wheel bearings, but it didn't help that much. He said it was the tires. It did go away when the tires were replaced, so he must have been right. Will be interesting to see in 10k miles if it returns. The second was the cracking sidewalls which could have been a MAJOR problem if not caught in time before failing.
They are called "summer tires", but I'm not sure what that classification really means. I do know "down here" we don't change tires with the season like some of you do "up North" so I guess the classification means they are not meant to be driven in snow, definitely NOT a problem in Houston. My P's stick like glue to the road, and it is hard to make them squeal. No problem in the rain either. Although the traction is good, I still can't bring myself to try your "55 90 degree turns"!!
Do you guys even have 90 degree turns in Houston?
Reminder... It's only fun with the spouse in the passenger seat because, like the P's, the only 'squeal' you're going to get is going to come from her. Difficult to make the Mich's squeal as well. Try to find a banked turn if you can.
Mine seems to really motor at "passing lane speeds" (getting from 70 up to 90 in a hurry). An HT might actually do no better at these speeds, but if you want to drive faster, or like shifting, than the HT would be better.
I think the engines are the same, but the HT has slightly less displacement (2.3 vs 2.4) to create a higher pressure turbo.
The HT was 236 bhp and 243 lb-ft.(@ 2700 rpm) It got there with a bore x stroke of 3.19 x 3.54 in for a total displacement of 142 cu in (2319 cc). The compression ratio was 8.5:1. The turbo max boost was 10.5 psi.
The LT was 190 bhp and 199 lb-ft (@1800rpm). It got there with a bore x stroke of 3.27 x 3.54 in for a total displacement of 149 cu in. (2435 cc). The compression ratio was 9.0:1. The turbo max boost was 7.0 psi.
The LT was a larger engine with a larger piston operating at a higher performance compression ratio. Without the turbo boost the LT was the higher performance engine. That's why, even with the turbo boost differences, it reaches the peak of its torque curve faster because it does not need as much assistance from the turbo to get it there. Thus the "quicker" feeling engine for city driving and automatic transmission driving. The HT leapfrogs over the LT by simply bolting on more turbo boost. It is similar to the old debates whether to turbo a 4 or 5 cylinder or just make a non-turbo 6. (Remember GM's foray into the turbo 3.8L in its full size sedans instead of the 5.0L or 5.7L V-8's). It is always best to drive both versions if you are unsure of your preferences. But, keep in mind the engines are different and perform differently. Whether you will ever find a salesperson who can explain the different benefits is another story. You will need a true "gearhead" to fully explain it and then they will have their own prejudices for or against turbo boost vs substantive engine.
Thus before
One more item.... You can always buy the LT and then buy the new CPU which gives you around an extra 45hp from Idpusa.com.