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I bought the Intrigue slightly used for my 23rd bday, thinking I would keep it until it dies. It was to be a car I could carry my family in. However, here it is five years later, still not married (steady gf though), still no kids, and a 40 mile round-trip commute. Well, about 1 1/2 years after buying, I caught a sneak preview of the MINI before it got here and was hooked ever since. I've finished paying for the Intrigue, but don't want the cost of insuring two cars in DC ($$$). If I need extra car-space, I'll switch cars with my dad for a day (Mazda MPV). I'm sure he wouldn't mind driving the MCS.
I appreciated it, and when I got my Intrigue back last night the steering was DRAMATICALLY different. I guess I hadn't realized how loose it had gotten but it certainly felt different.
However, it also seemed to be way off center. In order to drive straight, it seems like now the steering wheel is tilted to the right. I don't know if the alignment is just way off or what, but can this be caused by the ISS replacement and should I ask the dealer to align it?
Anyone who has had that work (and I know you're out there!) experience this?
Thanks.
It's too bad the 3.9L 245hp version isn't out till next spring though. That's the one many are waiting for.
I'm surprised you have transmission issues, GM makes the best so you don't hear of them breaking much. How many miles?
Stranger yet is that the DRL in the replaced light unit broke on Saturday! The bulb blew and scattered amber glass all over inside. I replaced the bulb, but couldn't/didn't try to get the pieces out. Maybe they scratched the bulb putting it all back together OR got some body oils on the bulb? I always use a paper towel when I handle bulbs these days.
Deke
Good luck!!
It's too bad they don't sell this car anymore. Closest thing to it seems to be a top end La Crosse with the 3.6L but I think I would give up the OHC and get a G6 in the end if I was replacing today.
Did you get it done yet?
What kind of deal could you get?
I wish they sold those up here. I think I should have my transmission fluid changed after hearing your story. I want to make sure it lasts.
Any help would be much appreciated.
It could be anything from a loose trunk lid, to a tool left in the trunk somewhere from the bodyshop.
Have you peeled up the floor top see if the jack and spare are not loose? Or a bolt/ tool that fell in.
Are the lug nuts on the wheel tightened to spec.?
You may have a broken upper strut mount. You can eleiminate this and other wheel sounds by having someone in the back seat, fold down the back and place your hand on top the the rear strut tower to see if you can feel the impact from the sound/rattle in your hand. If you do not have the folding seat option you nay have to crawl in the trunk in a parking lot to try the above suggestion.
What was the extent of the damage and did the rattle occur immediately after?
Some ideas.
Can you be more specific as to where you think it might be coming from. Inside the trunk, axle, wheels, left right etc. Apart from that, I'm just guessing. GGod luck.
socket connectors that year. Replacing the socket connector rectified the problem. (BTW -it's available only at GM dealers).
The noise a rattle, but also has a hint of squeak to it. It did not start immediately after the accident so it could be anything really. The noise seems to come from around the wheel area, I can hear it through the trunk. The body shop took it in again and checked the whole bumper / back area for any thing loose.
Are their any suspension parts that could loosen or would need a lube? Like I said, bouncing and straight driving seem to produce no noise, it's the corners that do it.
So, that averages out to about......7200 miles a year.
Was thinking of replacing the Trig with a new Dodge Magnum, but I'd rather keep the $25G for a bigger downpayment on the new house once we move. Just wish I had a GL/GLS or a 99 model with the fold down rear seat.
Deke
Anyway, there isn't anything back there to lube. The rear axle suspension links and trailing arm have rubber bushings that could be worn. As well as the sway bar mounting rubbers.
Inspect the little sway bar links for wear in its joints. They can cause annoying rattles that are hard to diagnose, due to the tension from the sway bar. They are several inches long and connect from the sway bar to about half way up the strut body. You will have to jack up under the steering knuckle to a point that takes the weight from the sway bar off the link so you can see if there is slop in one of the joints.
Another possibility, I also agree with White6 on the strut bearing/mount. As before, I diagnose these by getting to the strut tower "somehow" and holding the strut stud between your thumb and first finger. If the bearing/mount is defective you will feel the rattle there. Of coarse, it could also be play in the strut rod itself. At least it would isolate or eliminate the rattle to the strut/wheel on a particular side.
Have you grabbed the calipers to see if you can duplicate the rattle by shaking them?
One last guess, have you shaken or jostled the muffler/ tail pipe to see if that can be eliminated?
Just thinking out loud, I'm guessing the shop already did all this, but, one never knows. They may only be checking their own work. At this point you must start from scratch.
Keep us posted if you find the stupid cause.
Cheers
Deke
It poured rain Saturday and as the car got real wet underneath, the rattle pretty much disappeared. It's back a little bit now due to drying but the moisture seems to make it almost go away.
Thoughts?
in the latest wheels magazine, it is compared to the intrigue as spiritually alike; it's the same designer who's involved with both vehicles.
It has a 240 hp engine (same one used in cadillac)
Instead of SPOT PAINTING for $600 I got the whole car painted for just a few hundred more.
You can save thousands on body repairs by supplying you own parts with just a little time
searching on the internet.
Stability control cost extra on the new car.
Not a bad car overall, accelerate better than intrigue, but not as lively.
The rear seat is not very comfortable even for a short guy like myself, no thigh support.
Base price id 33,500 cdn, all three on lots are fully loaded at $40,000 cdn.
For that price, i'll pick up a Chrysler 300, or Acura TSX.
The crankshaft sensor went out around 55K miles. No big deal, warranty covered it.
I am still on my original brake pads. There's no warping or shuddering... (I guess all that discussion about brake problems on the '98s forewarned me to use mine very gently!!)
I'm on my third set of tires now. I reccommend the Z-rated "Assure" wet traction tires at Goodyear. They ride great and don't squeal like those old Eagles used to.
The only problems I have, are really nitpicky. The light has gone out under the transmission shifter. Once in a while the climate control gets stuck on a low or high setting. (So I just shut it off and restart it. No biggie.)
The Olds Intrigue has to be one of the most under-reported successful products from GM. It's just too sad...
Brakes were a weak point on the 98s because they used crappy rotors. I had to replace both rear ones at 9000 miles because they were heavily scored. Fronts were warped, had them turned and have been OK since then - have 40200 miles on the car now, so I may be getting near new pad time.
I may replace all four discs with aftermarket drilled/vented and composite pads.
Deke