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I have 96 Regal. Just replaced the radiator. The Part was $200.00 and installation was $65.00.
My Radiator has developed crack on left hand side near the intake. Very hair line crack and it was leaking very slowly.
About the sensor, The coolant sensor is located on the left hand side(driver side). That senses coolant level. If sensor is bad or coolant level in Radiator is low, then LOW coolant light will appear on the Dash board.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thank you
Chris
* * * Problem * * *
My Dad is currently having a problem with his Buick, Last night he came home and stated that the car just seemed to die on him when he was coming down the road. He took it back out for a trip around the block and came back with no problems. However
This morning when he went to leave. The car would start up run for about 3 - 5 seconds then just stall no flashing lights no error codes or engine lights. When trying to start the car again same problem. The car will start with no problem then just stall, All of the electrical systems are working fine from what I can tell.
* * * Trouble Shooting So Far * * *
I checked all of the fuses and I checked to make sure all the grounds where connected okay and didn't find any problems there.
* * * Observations * * *
However I did notice that the coolant Level was a little low.
After giving this some thought. I was wondering if the car had a " " Safty feature on it that prevented from over heating. Sure enough they do. However after reading about this "Over Heat Protection Mode" It doesn't state that it will prevent the car from starting up. Since it's not my car and I don't want to start fooling with things I was hoping somebody could elebrate a little more on this feature. So I could make a suggestion of adding more coolent to his car.
Also if you have had this problem or know about this problem with the Buicks and have any other suggestions please let me know
I read a very similar artical on this site that suggested it might be the Crank Shaft Sensor, Would anybody know where this is located at to see if it is bad or not. Is it easy to gain access to?
Also any other thoughts on this problem would be greatly welcomed.
Thank you
Chris
Are you in a warm climate? We're at 18 last night, currently 38. I had used the 134a recharge gauge from Walmart that had a separate gauge you screw onto the cans. It worked great because I had lost charge slowly (10 years).
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.dailyherald.com/story/?id=153648
The important message to owners is not to park your car in a garage until the problem is fixed.
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61961
Good grief! The repair looks very complicated (scroll down the page about 1/3 of the way to view the photos) and may take all day, or am I over-reacting? If it's an all-day repair, I hope the dealers are planning on having loaners for Regal GS (and GP GTP) owners.
What is the average cost of having the oil and transmission lines replaced?
Also, it appears that the rear window defroster, the horn, and the controls mounted on the steering column for the radio don't work, could this be just a fuse or should I have someone look into the wiring?
Thanks...
Did you replace ignition wires? Did you replace spark plugs with AC Delco plug?
At what speed and what gear are you feeling uneveness?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Is it firing the injectors? You can feel the pulse of use a 194 bulb with leads straightened plugged into the connector for one of the injectors while cranking.
Possibilities: bad battery connection, especially if you have a double layer positive (red) connector. Pull plastic back to see both connectors.
Crank position sensor. Camshaft position sensor. Some people have found
splashing cold water on the crankshaft position sensor will change it and make the thing work and give spark and then start.
I have also read that a ground wire connection to the connector plate below the coils can stop the ignition system.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
car sounds louder then before. Any ideas
Has any one charged the AC for 1996 Buick regal? I know where the charging ports are. They are right below water resorvayor. But do not know which port it is.
Is it the one with thick tube or the one with the thin tube? Which one is charging port? What should be the pressure?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I am trying to figure out the same thing..I went and bought a 20 dollar manual and it just told me that only a service professional should do anything with the A/C!! I have done it on my other vehicles without an issue because usually they put a blue or different colored cap on the correct port.
If you can shed any light on this I would greatly appreciate it. If not I will keep looking until I figure it out.
Thanks
Barn
The charge port is located under the Air Filter Box.
There are two port. The correct port is located on the thick tube connecting to cylinder. The thick tube comes from compressor to clynder and from clynder to evaporator in the dash board.
Let me know if you have any further question.
I am wondering if anyone can tell me what I may be able to do to fix the engine. We have a broken valve, piston, and head. I have read that it really entails a lot to be able to do this ourselves. Anyone know more or less what the price range would be to fix this? Someone has suggested to us that it would be better to just get a new engine for the car. Opinions?? Any help is greatly appreciated. Below are pics of the piston and the head.
<img src="http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/desertshi/various017.jpg
<img src="http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/desertshi/various018.jpg
The heater works well sometimes & not at all sometimes. HELP???
Does your radiator stay full-not the reservoir-the radiator?
If so, when you're done refilling and purging air from the heater, see if there's air in the thermostat housing and the radiator is full. Probably the heater can be purged of air by revving the motor after the car has run long enough on a short drive for the lower radiator hose to be hot.
Do both heater hoses stay the same temperature indicating enough flow?
The only thing I've heard that might apply is that when you think everything is full, have someone hold the motor at 1500 or so and you'll see the radiator level go down. Refill the radiator while they hold the motor at that speed. Put the radiator cap back on while they're still holding the speed. I've heard a talk show tell people to do that.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The low traction light was on and the brake light was also on. I took the car to a local mechanic and they added brake fluid which took care of the lights. Then they hooked it up to a computer and found that the car had been misfiring so they changed the spark plugs and wires.
They thought maybe the brakes were hung up and when they checked them they had to replace the pads and rotors.
I brought my car home and I've had 3 tanks of gas through it and the average is now 16.9 mpg.
Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I was hoping to take the car back to the same mechanic but he hasn't returned my call. Taking that as a bad sign I made an appointment with another mechanic on Tuesday.
What do you think the problem could be? :sick:
P.S. I'd also add that twice the review mirror lights stopped working and started working again hours later.I haven't noticed this problem in a week. Not sure that it's at all related.
I think engine 3800 V6 has issues. The head Gasket may have damaged and coolent may have leaked into teh Engine and May be damaging the Head assembly or something.
This engine has history of coolent getting into the engine and damaging teh engine and mechanic do not know what the hell is going on.
Let me know what you find out.
The mechenic are idiots and do not know what the hell is going on.
Then I changed the Coolent sensor. Located on the right side of teh radiator and that fixed the problem. For some reaon it was not circulating teh coolent.
Does teh "Low Coolent" come on?
This Model 3800 has design issue on coolent system. It also damages the engine head Gasket and other plastic Parts due to the over heating of the engine.
When you say running temp of the car, do you mean the motor? or the passenger compartment?
If you're saying the motor itself is hot and upper radiator hose stays cool until thermostat opens...,
is radiator full -- not reservoir, the actual radiator. Leaks will often drop that level without using reservoir fluid to refill. Then the heater doesn't get proper flow.
Is the heater core full of coolant? With radiator full and motor warmed thoroughly, run motor at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds, and repeat for total of 5 times. That should burp the heater air out.
Then bleed the air at the thermostat housing if it has a bleeder screw on top.
Are both heater hoses the same temp when motor is completely warm--with the blower on high. That's an indicator of enough flow. IF not heater core could be blocked by crud. Sometimes a cooling system flush will clear radiator chemically. But it's usually better to remove hoses and try to gently flush both directions with water being careful not to apply water line pressure to the heater from a garden hose.
Is the water pump circulating properly. When motor is warmed up, does water move through the radiator when the motor is gunned. A few people have found worn paddles on the impeller that don't circulate enough. Usually overheating results. One person found the impeller was sheared off completely and just lying in there (he'd let the car freeze without antifreeze in coolant and pump apparently froze and twisted off impeller when car was started).
Is the belt around the water pump in the proper direction? One person found a shorter belt had been used and the water pump was running the wrong direction--previous owner had replaced it in an emergency.
Just trying to suggest things since I don't know how long you've owned the car or it's history of maintenance.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Based on all the forums, I have replaced the Crank Sensor, the Low Speed Idle Sensor and the battery. The battery and alternator conncections are clean and tight, and wiring connections to the ignition switch are okay (according to my brother who runs an Automotive Electric shop in Oxnard, CA. The MAF passes the "tap test", and is apparently okay.
The Regal has sat in both shops for over a week each with engine running, stopping only occasionally. There are no error codes in the computer after the stoppage, so we have no idea why it stopped. It restarts immediately under the in-shop condition.
The Regal runs nicely at freeway speeds. The stalling occurs upon deceleration at a traffic light or stop sign.
I'm looking at the Regal sitting in my driveway wondering what to do with it. I'm into it for almost $500, and no closer to a solution than when I first started.
Oh, one more thing: there is a torsion rod in the rear which somehow got bent, and the car was almost totally uncontrollable. It happened on a dark and stormy night when the only road home was wet and winding. It took 75 minutes to go 20 miles.
No, I'm not convinced the 2000 Regal is the best of that breed, but I'm glad you've had good luck.
I have totally lost confidence in my 2000 Regal as an Around Town car (it runs fine on the open road at freeway speeds).
MAF sensors can also cause trouble. Some people suggest tapping on the body of it with a screwdriver handle and if the car changes speed or misses, you may have found the problem. A good test is substituting a known good one from another vehicle since many are the same part number.
ALSO check the EGR. In fact, disconnect the EGR, will set a code, and drive it a while when it's in the shutting off mood. I've seen reports of sticking EGRs. Must have been a bad supplier. If the EGR sticks open the car gets too must exhaust gas back through and runs rough. At high speed a sticking EGR may not make a difference.
I'm not sure what you mean by low speed idle sensor. I suspect it's the IAC, idle air control, that lets air past the butterfly to control the idle speed. Did they clean the throttle body? It gets covered with a black goop and may lead to the butterfly sticking when you first start the car; you have to press hard on the accelerator to get it to open. Many cars have this problem. It's cleaned with with solvents. Often the IAC gets gooped up too. Cars with lots of short trips and starts may do this more.
I'm betting on the EGR, if I were a betting man. But I do wish you luck in diagnosing. It really takes a TEch II or scan tool that reads out in real time connected while driving to see what parameter went wrong when the car stalls. Your local mechanic may not have that tool. The dealer does.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
There are several things to try to check to find a problem like he's having. The FPR leaks fuel through itself into the vacuum line that controls it.
When the car has been running and shut down, pull off the vacuum line and see if there's raw fuel in the line. There shouldn't be.
Note that occasionally the FPR failure can cause fuel ignition inside the upper intake manifold which splits it with the pressure (explosion like a backfire). There were recalls on some years for the FPR.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
For a car to run there has to be air, fuel and spark. When a car won't run, we check for spark using at worst a screwdriver stuck in a plug wire and held close to a ground on the motor while the car is cranked. If no spark then troubleshoot ignition.
If a car won't start we check for fuel. The fuel pressure can be checked at the fuel rail (on the FPR? by screwing on a gauge). The injector can be checked by unsnapping the electrical connection and putting in the leads from a 194 or 197 lightbulb used in running lights on cars. If it clinks, the injectors are being opened by the electronics on the car.
If the car is running poorly a Tech II computer is connected to see which parameter is askew and then find what causes that which can be something far removed from that symptom.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My mechanic says he cannot fix the problem unless he can make it happen in his shop with diagnostic tools connected. Unfortunately, it rarely fails off the road, sitting stationary with the motor running. Once, it ran long enough in his shop without failing until it ran out of fuel.
Although the Fuel Pressure Regulator passed the "smell test," indicating that there was no fuel leakage, another Buick owner said that replacement of the FPR solved his problem. The question is: Do I spend another $200 for another Shot in the Dark, and hope it solves the problem?