BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

kochan · April 2007

Thanks, Shipo.

I will bring this up with my dealership and see what they think. So far, they've mentioned only in passing that it might have something to do with the timing system, so I'll have them investigate further.

I appreciate your help, and will keep everyone posted!

Mike

amir · April 2007

hi.
i havn't noticed any noise from brakes.but can u explain a little more of what kind of sound u were noticing b4 they replaced ur fan blower cause i do hear a tickling sound at low tempreratures but not over 70 or 80 from somewhere in the ac vents.

skj109 · April 2007

That's what was happening with mine too - only at lower temps. They said it was the fan blower and replaced it. I haven't heard it since.

ritao · April 2007

I overstuffed my bmw trunk with big bundle of toilet tissue. Had to slightly force the trunk close. Since then, the dash indicator light for trunk is on. Trunk locks okay manually. Remote control will not work trunk lock. key only operation. Could you tell me what to look for?

megrdh1 · April 2007

Hi,
I have a '01 325i, this is my first BMW. During the first 4 years I had the car stalled few times then it needed the "cam sensor" replaced; hand brake did not release completely caused by the "spring". Then, 10 second after the engine is on, the yellow oil light turns on for 15 second; dx: faulty oil sensor, estimate for replacement $500. Now, the passenger rear window is broken, I can hear the buzzy noise, but it does not move. Any idea how much will it cost me to fix it. Just minor things but it drives me crazy, should i trade it in without fixing it? It seems that I cannot keep a BMW more than 6 years. I heard people like to lease rather than buy a BMW because of this reason. Is it true? :sick: Thanks in advance.

circlew · April 2007

I heard people like to lease rather than buy a BMW because of this reason. Is it true?

It is true for me. I have the first year E90 and decided to lease because I can keep the miles relatively low and do not have to worry about ANY repairs.

My take is if you need to purchase a car for high miles, keep it as simple as possible with few options because of the depreciation effect. The repair costs are higher on the more premium cars also so you need to factor that in to the buy decision.

I estimate your window will be $300 - $500.

Regards,
OW

Regards,
OW

charlottegale · May 2007

I am being quoted $1,399 for the extended maintenance warranty and $2,775 for the bumper to bumper extended warranty. Is this what others are being charged now? I am mainly thinking of buying the maintenance warranty right now, because it seems like that one is pretty likely to pay for itself with one brake job and oil changes. Does anyone have any input on that?

Much appreciated,
Charlotte

rhmass · May 2007

I bought the extended maintenance contract for my '02 and had both the front and rear brake done completely as well as all belts replaced. With the annual oil change and the additional one brake fluid and coolant change, I think the cost is well worth it.

I am not sure about the extended warranty contract which sounds high, so I have chosen to take my chance on that.

cotmc · May 2007

Hope I'm not too late to help...

Refer to Post #3207. Nalley BMW was offering the extended maintenance for $945 earlier this year.

skj109 · May 2007

Where is Nalley BMW?

kyfdx · May 2007

It's in Atlanta... but, you can buy the maintenance plan at any dealership..

cotmc · May 2007

That's correct. I was prepared to contact Nalley to make the purchase from them, but I eventually purchased from my local dealer for $995.

canman1971 · May 2007

I suspect the dealer that I bought my 04 325iT wagon off of might have put a 1/2 tank of regular gas in the car I bought. I filled it up today with premium. I don't think it had more than that. It has been regularly serviced at my local BMW dealer. So, my question is, is there anything else I should do besides putting premium gas in it from now on?

dhanley · May 2007

No, regular has isn't going to damage the car in any way.

rex01z3coupe · May 2007

My 2001 BMW Z3 Coupe's rear windshield wiper comes on by itself and sometimes goes crazy and cannot be turned off. I pulled the fuse that was speced and the front wipers were disabled but the rear still has a mind of it's own. The rear wiper works fine when engaged...just comes on by itself (alot) and I need some help trouble shooting this to a relay/fuse or other electrical problem. All help is appreciated!

thomberman · May 2007

When do you have to change oil in the BMW. The sales person mention every two years I was under the assumption it was every three months please help. Just purchased my first BMW 2005 325i I am so happy want to keep it for awhile

shipo · May 2007

Your sales person is an idiot.

Oil changes, per your manual, are required when the car tells you they're due. Figure on roughly every 15,000 miles, however, the car may well tell you to do it in as few as 12,000 miles (if you really thrash the car), or in as long as 19,000 miles (if you typically get on the freeway, set the Cruise Control at ~75 and then drive an hour or two).

If you want to preform an interum oil change (at say 7,500 miles) you MUST MAKE SURE you use one of the three oils available here in North America that meet the BMW LL-01 oil standard. Said oils are as follows:

- BMW Synthetic 5W-30
- German made (says "Made in Germany" on the label) Castrol Syntec 0W-30
- Mobil 1 0W-40

Best Regards,
Shipo

thomberman · May 2007

I just retired to Las Vegas and purchased my pre-owned 2005 BMW 325i. It is a dream to drive. I appreciate your advice. Nothing like celebrating my Golden Years in a Beamer.

roadburner · May 2007

Beemer=BMW Motorcycle
Bimmer=BMW Car

roadburner · May 2007

FWIW Shipo, I recently discovered that Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 also meats the LL-01 specs. Here is the relevant product data sheet.
Just for fun I emailed BMW NA from the Owners Circle web site and asked what oils could be substituted for BMW synthetic oil. I was advised that Castrol Syntec 5w-30, Mobil 1 5W-30, and and Valvoline 5W-30 were acceptable substitutes- none of which meet LL-01 standards.

shipo · May 2007

Thanks, good information to know. I do find it odd though that Valvoline doesn't list the VW 503.01 spec too. This would be the first LL-01 oil that I've seen that doesn't also meet the most stringent VW gasoline engine spec. Hmmm.

Best Regards,
Shipo

abfisch · May 2007

Ya know. Painful above. See the Bentley Service Manual. Oil change intervals as well as viscosity depending on temperature operating ranges and type of conditions, not so much specs.

I believe the Bently Service Manual even suggests 15W-40 obviously for high temp summer months. Check that but that is what I remember. I cannot imagine any demonstrable difference in engine wear before 250K and how many people have over that mileage????

abfisch

shipo · May 2007

I'm afraid that I don't understand where you're going with your comments, so I'll just say this; 0W-40 should easily out perform 15W-40 in all driving environments and in all weather conditions. Said another way, for all BMWs built since at least the 1999 model year, the Bently Service Manual has it wrong, WAY wrong.

Best Regards,
Shipo

roadburner · May 2007

I agree, the only time I would use a higher viscosity oil in a post-1999 BMW would be in the case of Motorsport engines which call for Castrol 10W-60

shipo · May 2007

Agreed. ;-)

circlew · May 2007

NEVER take service recommendations from a Sales Rep in ANY auto dealer. That's what the Service departments are for. However, they are not perfect but at lease warranty items are covered.

Regards,
OW

thomberman · May 2007

My BMW 325i needs alittle touch up paint. Orientalblau metallic which I ordered on line. Any suggestions on how to touch it up so it looks great. Thanks for help

y2krok00 · May 2007

I'm looking for a good recommendation of when I should be doing the following services:
a. Engine Oil Service (been doing for every 15,000 miles)
b. Inspection I
c. Inspection II

My BMW has 86,000 miles on it. I'm scheduled to take my BMW in the shop for: 4-wheel alignment, coolant flush, break oil flush, Engine Oil Service, and Transmission Oil flush (??). I'd like to hear the best recommendation if possible. Thanks!

shipo · May 2007

Not to be flippant, but the best advice is to check you Owner's Manual. If you don't have an owners manual, go to the BMW-USA web site, sign up for the "Owner's Circle" and download one. If you cannot do that, I happen to have the manual for the 2003 model year that I can send you. If you want to choose that option, simply click on my ID above and shoot me an E-Mail.

Best Regards,
Shipo

jim1395 · May 2007

checked all the bulbs with multimeter and checked for clean contacts. comes and goes, any suggestions.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2007

Check the printed circuit board in the tail light assembly (where the bulbs are inserted) for a break/burn in the circuit. You can see it easily as a break or as damage to the printed circuitry.

Fairly common problem on BMWs...the circuit boards seem to overheat. I fixed a friends 750 like this, same problem.

roadburner · May 2007

checked all the bulbs with multimeter and checked for clean contacts. comes and goes, any suggestions

Make sure that you use the silver base bulbs which are available from your dealer- or get Sylvania /Osram bulbs at Autozone. Apply a very thin coat of bulb(dielectric) grease to the bases of the bulbs prior to installing them. That eliminated the phantom bulb warnings on my E39 5er.

seattle328xit · May 2007

I was driving my brand new 328xiT today and the automatic transmission failed in the middle of a very busy road. The transmission would not shift out of 1st gear. I nursed the car to the nearest dealer, BMW of Seattle, where they told me to leave the car because they wouldn't be able to look at it for a few days. They did not have a loaner car I could use. I had to take a cab home.

The car is less than 2 weeks old and we've only put ~100 miles on it. We bought it at BMW of Tacoma/Fife. I have owned a 1997 BMW 318is for 10 years and have had few problems with it. However, I'm really disappointed to have a problem than makes the car unusable after such a short period of time.

Anyone have similar problems with the 2006-2007 3-series? I know than the previous generation had lots of transmission problems (the automatic GM transmission).

Do I have any recourse I have - I just bought the darn thing and it broke already.

I am bummed about the problem and the poor service I received.

:lemon:

slick505 · June 2007

got '02 325Ci. AC not functioning b/c outside temp reading is incorrect. try to replace it, but don't know where it's located. does anyone know where it is? thanks for help.

roadburner · June 2007

On the E36 3ers the sensor is found in the RH brake cooling duct. In any case, it should be somewhere in that general area.

cbanct · June 2007

At the very least I would complain to BMW of NA.
I have heard that this will not likely help, but the dealer should at least give you a loaner car.
Good luck and keep us posted.

cbanct

walterquint · June 2007

I just read that the latest 3series LACKS an oil dipstick. A little graphic (of questionable accuracy) warns you if the oil is low. To truly check the oil, BMW recommends that you have the dealer drain the oil and measure it cup by cup. !!!!

Is this for real?? can someone confirm? It's the silliest thing I ever heard.

shipo · June 2007

It is true to a point. There was a period when there were either faulty sensors and/or condensation collecting in said sensor, and that incorrect readings were the result. FWIW, I haven't heard of an incident of incorrect reading in several months and so it would seem that the problems have been ironed out.

For my part, I have a problem with the lack of a dip-stick for a different reason. As I am inclined to perform most of my own maintenance, I prefer to remove used oil via the dip-stick tube as opposed to crawling underneath the vehicle. Eliminating the dip-stick has also brought about the elimination of the tube that it is slid through. Grrr.

Best Regards,
Shipo

jtla · June 2007

I have had my 328i for about 2 months and 1600 miles. While I was driving this morning, the TPMS/Flat Tire warning light came on in red color. I did not see anything upon visual inspection, so I stopped by a gas station to check tire pressure. 3 of the 4 tires' pressure were around 34 psi, while the 4th was near 40 psi. The label on driver's side door stated 32 psi. (I had driven about 5 miles at this point.) I released some air on the 4th tire so all 4 tires were at 34 psi.

The problem is, I could not reset the TPMS sensor. Each time I pressed reset, the red warning light would come back on again. Is there something other than tire pressure need to be checked on? Do I need to go to a dealer for service? Also, what could have triggered the warning light?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

circlew · June 2007

Check the reset procedure in the owners manual. It is a little tricky but you need to follow the manual's procedure.

I tried last year but needed to R.T.F.M. Duh! :mad:

bmwill · June 2007

Just told the ever increasing noise on the right rear of my 2006 e90 is a cracked ball joint.None in stock and since they said they are closing the 22nd of June(Jalbert BMW Quebec City), I have to wait until the 26th to order another one from the new dealership.They said it wasn't serious but to drive another two months with that noise will drive me crazy! Is it really not serious and what recourse do I have to remedy the problem?

jtla · June 2007

OW,

Thanks for the reply. I meant to look at the manual, but did not have it with me. The on-line manual on bimmerfest is a old version and I could not find anything about resetting. Without a spare in trunk, it really got me worried with this red warning light on.

Anyway, I have got it. Like you said, it is a little tricky. You have to press "reset" twice, and on the second time hold for like 10+ seconds (manual said 5 seconds) till the "reset" disappears. Then you go back in the "reset" again, and press it for the third time. A check mark is shown next to the word "reset", and you are done.

Hope this takes care of it. I still have no idea what set the warning off. (I did visual inspection again and still saw no sign of puncture or any foreign object.) Will have to watch out for a few days and check the tire pressure again.

donjbldr · June 2007

My top began sticking on the way up. Took it to the dealer who checked the straps- they're OK. Went to adjust the rods - and found that the convertible top motor is pulling out of the body of the car! Parts are estimated at $1500.00 plus labor. Any ideas? Easy repairs? Private shops in North San Diego?

grios1 · June 2007

I has experienced the brakes sticking on my vehicle. I put the vehicle in reverse and back out of the driveway. I then put the vehicle in drive and the brake takes apprx 2 secs to disengage. I took the vehicle to the dealer and of course the problem "could not be duplicated." Has anyone else had this issue and if so what was the outcome.

Thanks

skj109 · June 2007

I have the same thing happening with my 2006 330i. I find it happens more noticeably when i'm not parked on a level grade. The brakes make a noise when I slowly take my foot off the brake. I took it to the dealer and they said the brakes are fine. But I really think it's not normal for this to happen. Does anyone have any suggestions to what I can ask the dealer to check?

dhanley · June 2007

That's not the a problem, it's the hill hold.

http://blogs.edmunds.com/roadtests/486?@@

grios1 · June 2007

Why would the hill hold engage when you're not on a hill? As long as its not a safety issue, thats fine. It just seems weird.

Thanks

eglasser · June 2007

2001 - 325i - Has anybody else experienced this? Unfortunately, my Passenger seat is stuck in the full forward position (useless to all but the very small) and the Driver's seat acts up frequently, so much so that I no longer move it in order to detail the car. I used to "fix" the Passenger's seat by jiggling the power cords underneath, but no more -- it flat out doesn't work. Any help is appreciated. I just don't want to pay a shop a ka-jillion bucks for them to tighten a connection or replace a fuse somewhere.

georged4 · June 2007

Have a '97 328 IS in need of shocks/struts. Is it worth the cost of Bilstein? I'l like the touring class, but will that be a disappointment in a car with sport package? I'm not an agressive driver and afraid Bilstein sports will be troo stiff .. at least more than the OEM

ANy thoughts?

traderb · June 2007

Does anyone of a locksmith that can cut new key for my 330? Im in NY metro area. please help.

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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