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Thanks!
BTW: List of problems I've had since buying new - bought Dec01, currently ~27k (most recent first):
1) Front left speaker sounds "blown" - I've never had the volume above say 13 or 15 and 10 is about where it needs to be to actually hear anything. The blown or distorted sound is actually more noticable at lower levels and especially on talk radio. Will take it to the dealer in the next week or two to have it replaced.
2) Crankshaft sensor replaced - Car stalled on me twice and had noticable power loss. After reading this forum last night I noticed this was a recall. I never received notification from Nissan. Dealer fixed problem quick enough and was apologetic, but never told me it was a recall.
3) ABS light has come on twice - once after a rain storm, and once after a car wash. Had a noticable loss of brake pedal and stopping distance. Light went out before dealer could take a look, so of course it was always fine by the time they did look at it. I'll assume it was caused by water getting into the sensor.
4) Have been fighting with Nissan since about 2 months after owning the car about a noticable shimmy/vibration. Was told by the dealer that 2 of the tires are "out of round" - Goodyear RS-A's. Goodyear claimed the wheels were bent and improperly balanced, also claimed tie-rods were loose. Also, no warranty on the RS-A tires. Returned to dealer with the claim from Goodyear and dealer ended up replacing the steering rack. Have since determined that the tires need to be re-balanced with every rotation (at a nice $40 out of pocket expense). Car still has a slight shimmy, but after 2+ years I guess I am getting used to it. Not ready to spend $600 to get new tires and see if the problem goes away.
5) Selling dealer sold me an aftermarket warranty that didn't exist (wrong length and mileage). After fighting with Nissan for 6+ months, Nissan refunding the money and gave me their Silver warranty/service package.
So far everything has been either warranty or included with the service package. Only out of pocket expenses have been the tire balancing and a lug bolt that needed to be replaced (thanks to the safety inspector putting on the wrong lug nut! - don't ask, I wondered the same thing!) Other than the above problems, its been a decent car. Wouldn't call it great, but its been okay. Wish I had spent a little extra and bought the TL. Have turned 3 co-workers away from the Maxima (due to the troubles with the dealer and service) - all 3 bought Acura CL or TL.
I've read that driving the car could cause more damage, CO2 sensor and cadalitic converter replacement! Is this true?
I read somewhere here that there was a place where you could buy the coils for much cheaper cost ~$56. This person/place has them stocked. Does anyone have their number? Website? I checked Maxima.org and could not find. Please help. Thanks in advance..
I got basic Brembo rotors, and Axxis metal master pads.
Thanks anyway!
Got the ones for the 00-01 model for about C$32 each (which is about US$24) from a Canadian Nissan dealer. 99 uses different coils though but I think price should be similar. If you live close to the border, it is worth the drive.
Otherwise, I like this site:
http://www.jerryromenissan.com
Enter discount code "MAXIMA" for extra discount.
I got OEM NGK spark plugs here for only $6.6 each.
The car does seem more prone to pulling to the right and harder then when it pulls to the left, so it may still need to be aligned, but what is causing this? When it pulls to the left the steering wheel is about 5-10 degrees off center, but when it pulls to the right it is a bit more mayeb as much as 15%. But it can vary, sometimes it can pull a lot and other times its barely noticable.
Not sure if its related and I have yet to find the cause(will get it looked at this weekend)but when I turn the wheel(I notice it most when parked, since its harder to hear while actually driving and I may not turn that hard during actual driving)all the way in one direction and then turn it back the other way, at about 1/3 of the wayI hear a noise. The noise can be best described as the wheel catching against a piece of plastic or soemthing and then popping past it.
Hopefully that makes some sense to some of you. I have looked at the wheel well area while doing this and I see nothing unusual, but I have not been able to actually look under the car or at the inside of the tire, so i have no idea what it is or if it is causing part of the pulling problem.
You should never patch or plug a damaged tire sidewall. As long as the puncture is located in the tire tread, the repair should last.
Since this repair is on a practically new vehicle, it is extremely important that the repair be done correctly.
First, a combination repair is the ONLY approved repair by the tire manufacturers.
Second, they only approve the repair in the tread EXCLUDING the outermost ribs. If the tire is speed rated the outermost groove is also excluded.
Third, if the tire ran underinflated for any length of time, the tire may have been compromised, so its durability is questionable.
Hope this helps.
Yes I do have a wife and kid who occasionally ride in the car with me. I do plan to keep the car for a while and will get it fixed. What I want to know(yes I need to actually find out whats actually wrong with it)is if the steering rack, if that is the problem is a safety problem. If it is then I will have to get it fixed. If its not then it can wait till I get a bit more cash.
No answers yet
#1848 of 1866 Maxi brakes by ccermak Mar 22, 2004 (6:33 pm)
I have an early build 2000 SE Auto with 64K miles. Brakes are 100% original. I'm getting a nasty grinding & scraping noise from what sounds like the rear, but it only does it once or twice during my 1st and 2nd stops after the car sits parked. I'm well aware of this happening with "surface rust" on the rotors and this ain't the deal, at least it ain't visible like after the rain. I can leave the car for a couple hours and it does it again, then goes away after a stop or two. Usually squeaks in front and scrapes in rear and then work fine. Any ideas? I've now tried pumping my brakes 3 times in park after I started the car and before I backed up and hit the brakes to maneuver out of a parking spot and it seemed like it actually helped. I'll try again to see if I'm loony. Any ideas? Could it be invisible surface rust? There are no bad grooves in the rotors, no shimmy during hard stops, just a bad grind or scrape that sounds terrible and then goes away. Pads from what I can tell look like they have a decent amount left, especially in the rear, but I'm not 100% sure I'm looking correctly either.
#1850 of 1871 luky92104 by ericu Mar 22, 2004 (9:56 pm)
These ECN's (Engineering Change Notices)... Do they just collect all of them and improve the following year's model or do they affect the production of the current model?
The dealer checked the noise out and decided it was from cracked front calipers, which they changed yesterday. Nice try, but not the answer. Other car geeks at work have suggested that the noise might be coming from defective (poorly cast) wheels or bad tires.
Okay, has anyone else had this experience? Or any ideas as to the cause and possible fix?
Thanks for any help.
I've had coils, O2, AND MAF replaced. Fortunately,
I ONLY had to pay for the coils. Gee......that
was only $500 hard earned bucks. Do I sound
bitter? Damn straight.
I've owned Nissans for 18 yrs, but I gotta tell ya, these 5th Gens. are crap.
IMHO, you should not have to spend any money during the first 5 yrs./ 60,000 miles of vehicle
ownership other than tires, batteries etc.
BTW, did I mention that I had a new muffler replaced at 10,000 miles ( under warranty )
and a new LR brake caliper because of uneven
brake pad wear ( NOT under warranty ).
At this very moment I'm sitting in my Nissan dealers service dept. as I write this. I feel like
I FREAKIN LIVE HEAR.
I want to sell the stupid thing, but it seems as though all the manufacturers are having problems.
I'm not sure what I'd buy for reliability other
than a Bradly Fighting Vehicle !!!
Oops, how could I have forgotten the warped rotors........silly me !
Anybody want to buy it ??????????????
It completely transforms this car into a " Rocket Ship". H-O-W-E-V-E-R......in less than 2 yrs. and
13,000 miles I've had a Safety Recall under warranty for the Cam and Crank angle Sensors and
the TSB for the rear window wind noise.
I guess it could be worse The vehicle COULD have
been involved in ALL 5 safety recalls.
6 yrs.
LED stoplight that is totally inop. Just discovered this AM. You KNOW that sucker
will be $200. Guess I'll go to the junkyard.
Gosh, I have not been to a junkyard since I owned
that old '57 Plymouth Savoy !!!
DD
I have a 02 SE and it is just about time to take it in for my 30K checkup - I would like to get all recalls, etc. fixed as expiditiously as possible - is there a list of TSB's on the Internet for this car that i can reference?
Any and all help would be appreciated!
John
Quite a collection, depending on the year you own.
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/index.asp?year=2000&tsb=- none
I have had to put up with a bumpy, jittery, stiff ride that has been very frustrating. I'm surprised that no one else has complained about this!
The latest complaint and this is a huge one.....the car has developed an annoying vibration ever since it was serviced for it's 48,000 KM. At 1,000 to 1,500 RPM, the car has started a lugging, resonating vibration that feels like driving a manual transmission at a higher gear at low revs. I actually have an automatic transmission and around town, I have to drive with the Overdrive button off in order to avoid some of the vibration by driving at higher revs.
The local Nissan dealer is stumped by it and another Nissan dealer nearby has experienced this same condition with an 00 Maxima model on which they replaced the transmission, exhaust system etc. and were not able to resolve it. The client was sold another Maxima of the same year that does not display the same condition.
I really don't want to get rid of this car. I would rather have it fixed. Has anyone experienced this low rev phenomenum? Please reply to this message.
Auto Zone in my area doesn't check codes for you anymore, but they let me check out the diagnostic tool. The code I got was P1320. That's the only one. Ok, what does that mean? Is it dealer only job? How much might I expect to pay? I'm in So. Calif.
Thank you all for you help.
My problem and thanks to the TSB site I have the KEY REGISTRATION - CAR WILL NOT START!! Just out of the blue the car will not start. Security light stays on and that is the indication that the chip in the key has gone bad.
NO MORE NISSANS in MY FUTURE.
Now I have to see if NISSAN will pick up my car and fix my No Start Problem.
Supposed to be inspected every 15,000 miles.
Looks pretty easy from the service manual.