Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
tidester, host
Host- What's this information that when we sign in forum to post, we are not going into a secure site
From post 15299:
If you check the remember me on this computer box, you won't see it again.
Steve, Host
To host;
But are you're still "not going into a secure site" ?
In the good ol' days, only Town Hall required registration if you wanted to post. Now there's other site content that requires registration, and some of that content costs money. I think they just combined everything so you could use one registration site wide.
If you want to know, try asking in Our Software! Your Questions Answered....
Steve, Host
I paid $263 for lifetime ceramic pads on all corners.
I also canvased this group months back re a fickle rear gate unlock as tranny is put in park.
I was experiencing a failure to unlock maybe 1 out of 5 times plus intermittent failure when using the key fob.
Dealer diagnosed and replace a liftgate module.
This was a $200+ repair covered under warrantee
I have the 4.2, but have expirenced the same thing as you describe. I moved to AZ from NY 4 months ago. TB does seen to run hot whenever the temp rises above ~100, however, my Grand Prix runs a few ticks hotter as well. I pretty much chalked it up to be normal, as I have not noticed any adverse effects. Its this oven we live in!
In the morning when starting it up cold, it is very very loud (and sounds like a diesel) and blows a lot of white smoke. It's not a water-vapor type of white smoke, it's heavy and hangs around, unlike steam would. The smoke and loud noise do recede after it's warmed up.
I know that's very vague but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what could cause this. We have a 30-day warranty, so I need to be armed with info ASAP.
Thanks in advance!
-Tony
Not sure about the noise some people have said in the past theirs sounded similar to what you describe, but the smoke at start-up - that sounds serious. Anything from leaking valve stem seals to worn valve guides will cause oil to leak down from the top of the engine overnight into one or more cylinders, then at first startup in the morning burns off that oil. Not good. 30 day warranty? you might want to take them up on that.
The Bravadas all got a 5 year-60k mile warranty I think. If you keep it you will probably need to use that. Good Luck!
Anyway, is there a good strategy for getting this fixed under the warranty to prevent the warranty company from taking advantage of you?
I Was thinking along the lines of paying to have it diagnosed then I'd know what the REAL problem is instead of the warranty company TELLING me what it is just to avoid more costly repairs; know what I mean?
Or is it safe enough to just let the machinery work, and as long as the white smoke disappears, assume It's fixed?
Any other thoughts on warranty strategy is GREATLY appreciated! THANKS!
Your engine could have dropped a cylinder sleeve. All of the 2002 have a 75,000 mile warranty for that.
GM factory warranty’s are transferable to second owners, is there some thing special about the 02 Bravada warranty I don’t know about?
Allen
Last year the NHTSA contacted me regarding the complaint I filed about it. They were opening a formal investigation into Envoys and Bravadas with the air suspension stalling at highway speeds, but included my case in the investigation. I haven't heard anything more about this.
One thing: I just checked the oil and it looks a little over filled. Could that make some white smoke and loud diesel-like sounds?
-Tony
"Two days after the press introduction of the Bravada, GM announced that it would be putting Oldsmobile down, after a 103-year run. To assuage any concerns about service, Oldsmobile is offering a 5-year/60,000-mile warranty on its new vehicles."
Also it would have to be really overfilled with oil to cause smoke on startup. That oil smoke at the least is is not good for the catalytic converter and O2 sensors. I would not accept a vehicle that has that problem. My 2¢.
Chris
From what was described in the first post, sounds like oil smoke to me. Coolant leaking into a cylinder would dissipate like steam.
When I first bought my 1988 S-10 with 4.3 V6 (that I still own now with 98,900 miles) it would blow a cloud of bluish-white smoke occasionally upon the morning start-up. Dealer installed a valve stem seal kit and it never did it again.
BTW the emissions warranty is very limited, and depends what State you are in, too. California has the most extensive emissions coverage. Details in the warranty booklet with your owner's manual. I was surprised some items that are not covered, which would certainly effect emissions.
I have 2 things to report:
#1 - I called GM and they said that I will get the 60,000 mile warranty just by filling out a form and sending them a $50 transfer fee. I hope that's true; I fear that they just told me this to get me off the phone. Then when the form gets to GM in the mail, they'll send me a letter that says "this particular vehicle had the 36,000 mile warranty. As I mentioned above, my Carfax report lists the warranty as EXPIRED and a 36,000 mile warranty.
#2 - We've started the Bravada 3 times cold since the billowing while smoke. Guess what, no white smoke the last 3 times. It still sounds like a diesel for the first 5-10 minutes however.
We will be watching for more white smoke for the next 10 starts. It was very chilly when I got the original white smoke, so maybe it'll show when it goes below 45 degrees like the first time.
I am in PA, btw. I hope emissions is covered b/c the emission inspection just started this year.
Also, it does not smell like antifeeze, nor does it look like it (since it would dissipate repidly if it were steasm-type smoke).
Oldsdriver: is that a bumper-tobumper warranty you got for all those miles?
THANKS!
I don't remember which, but I did not have to transfer the warranty by mail, I either did it on- line or over the phone. Also, I talked to the GM dealership where I was going to have the work done first. I think I paid my transfer fee to them and they called in and helped somehow. Usually the person you talk to is their finance guy/gal. I made so many calls and talked to so many people that I have lost track of the final way it was accomplished. Extending this warranty to more that 60,000 miles is interesting too. You must do it before the car has 57,000 miles and/or 3 months before expiration. It will still be a GMPP but not bumper to bumper but close. The finance person may have to be enlightened on this too.
You should get clarification on the 100,000 mile engine warranty also, just in case your problem is that you need a new engine.
I hope you like your bravada as much as I like mine. It is pleasure to drive.
When I had the smoke upon startup problem with my S-10, it was intermittent. In fact, I took it in several times and got the dreaded “cannot duplicate” each time. It would blow smoke in the morning about 1/2 the time for me, so I set up a video camera and recorded it blowing a huge cloud of smoke and took the tape to the dealer. Yep, sure does, was the conclusion, and next day it was fixed for good.
As for the engine noise there was an issue with piston noise and sometime in mid-2002 they went to a polymer-coated piston to help alleviate the noise.
The 100,000-mile engine cylinder sleeve warranty applies only to those built in calendar year 2001.
Then I hooked up my volt meter to the negative and to the "power" pin on the built-in wire harness to see if there was any juice and got nothing. To my knowledge, I should get at least 12 volts when the engine is running to charge the marine battery on the RV when towing.
I checked all my fuses (under the hood and rear seat) and everything is good there.
Does anyone have any ideas why It's not charging the RV battery when the engine is on (or why there's no juice flowing thru?).
I went ahead and mentioned it to the dealer because I just wanted to make sure there was no problem with premature failure. The dealer replaced the entire instrument cluster which did fix the problem.
Wanted to ask a question though. On my original gas guage, the needle would go a little past full when the truck was totally refueled. The new gas guage will not register all the way full, goes to the last tick before full and that is as far as I have been able to get it to go, even after topping off the tank. My Envoy is a 2002, so I was wondering if the gas guages had changed in the last couple years (maybe folks were running out of gas thinking they had more fuel than they did, or some such thing???)
Anyone else seen this or is mine just mis-calibrated a bit? Every car I have seen registers a bit over when full...
Around the time the IC was replaced I noticed something different though. The points of all the needles seem to have a 3D effect (only at the tips) against the gauge background. I am not complaining. Because I get tired of my seating position from time to time I might now have a viewing angle of the dash that permits the 3D effect. In other words it could be unrelated to the IC replace.
Chris
I thought that was pretty cool, but wasn't sure if it was different or just my imagination.
poles
The last few posts got me looking for extra wires just lurking about, and YOU GUESSED IT! I FOUND ONE! WOOHOO!
The fuse block has an empty ring terminal on it next to the fuse designated for the trailer 12V lead. I thought that maybe that where you hook up a wire to it. I was ready to make my own when I noticed a suspicious bright red wire bulging out of a plastic wire harness. I pulled a little and voila! ...a little ring for a ring terminal was magically connected to its loose end. AND it was exactly the right size for that ring terminal I had just discovered.
After testing everything with my voltmeter, it's a done deal!
One note: The trailer battery will always be charging since the juice is ALWAYS on. So just unplug the wire harness when you are finished towing or you'll drain your TV battery (or maybe they'd equalize ...not sure on the results).
I'm happy. BUT why the he|| isn't this in the owner's mannual? If it weren't for the internet, I"d still be outta luck! Thanks to the folks that helped with their experiences and posts! You have made a difference and I'm thankful!
-Tony
On the main A/C controls (dashboard) there are no adjustments for the rear.
Hopefully this will assist you in working the rear air controls.
1. In the front where the control knob is next to the driver turn the knob until it is on position "zero". This will allow you to control the air flow from the back. If you don't have it on that position riders in the back can't control the flow.
2. If the knob is turned to positions 1 thru 3 in the front then the driver has control over the flow of heat or air.
3. Try those tips and it should work out fine. If not hopefully the manual would assist you.
There's not much you can do to raise a 4WD TB. The front axle runs right through the oil pan.
Thanks for the reply. That is how I thought the system is supposed to work. I am glad I am not losing my mind.
Thanks