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We're expecting snow tomorrow :-( As soon as the kiddies are in bed I may go for a drive while it's still dry.
They did have the Cronos, and Atlantic on display, plus I got to see my old Challenger (miss that car). I also test drove the PT, 300M Special, and Sebring Convertable. I did wish the test was longer. I think I will have to go as a bidder next year, instead of just a looker. Sorry I missed you Igor, maybe later.
Just leave yourself enough gas money to get home. It would be a shame of you ran out of gas, and had to walk home.
For collision work paint, ask the shop. I have had answers from "right away is OK" to "wait 30 days." I would think 30 days would be safe.
Beach- The coarse feeling to the paint may be overspray. Wash & dry a small area and examine it closely. If the area looks fine when wet but after drying looks dull and like it's covered with very small dots, that's likely overspray (i.e. paint or clearcoat sprayed on areas not properly masked off). The paint shop should take care of this (prob. by "claying" the surface with a special detailing clay bar and lubricant.) I had this trouble after my minor acident repair, and I got so frustrated with my 5*'s half-a**ed work that I finally just clayed the areas myself (I have some detailing experience & got the body shop manager to give me some of their detailing clay to get me out of her hair!). IF you decide to try claying the surface, keep the surface wet with the appropriate lubricant (usu. a quick-detailing spray) and use a light touch. Let the clay bar do the work. Remember that the clay will pick-up stuff, so NEVER use a clay bar that's fallen on the ground as it will have picked up dirt which will scratch your paint. Follow-up with a good wash and wax.
Jon
Jon
Thanks!
http://www.myroadster.net/porterfield.asp
Porterfield review:
http://www.miata.net/products/pm...field.html
EBC review:
http://www.miata.net/products/pmisc/ebc.html
http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/carbotech.html
Also having trouble with seat adjusting by itself.
I keep my seat all way back so no need for it to self adjust either forward or back .. but it does.
They replaced memory for seat and apparently that not it because still moving.
Interesting question...seems like the pads should be bigger to match the
larger rotor...
The books I have show a Porterfield 591 Front and a 512 rear, with or
without Performance package up through year 2001. As you say, books show a
larger rotor - but the same size pad is specified.
Your dealer could easily verify that the pad size is the same, with a phone
call.
Unless you have a 2002 - and there has been a change - I don't have
information for 2002 models.
(Actually nearly any pad can be identified with a tracing of the metal
backing plate - faxed to me with height and width of pads shown)
Let me know what you find out...
Jerry
If the pads are indeed the same, then:
Front: 591 List $79, MyR $74
Rear 512 List $79, MyR $74
It does seem as though you do have a really bad leak issue in your M. I really don't have the slightest clue of what it might be but do have a question for you.
What is a 300M like when it's so close to the 100k mark?
We only have 16,500 miles but I'm just curious. Does it seem looser feeling, does stuff look worn, or how does the engine seem (power and sound-wise)? I just can't imagine us ever having that many miles on a car, regardless if it's 4 years old.
As for having more miles, yes I have actually seen it. In late summer, there was a used 1999 300M that was Candy Apple Red with Camel leather on Ebaymotors that had 102,000 miles on the clock! I was amazed from the pictures at how good it still looked, detailed and spotless like new! From future predictions, I can't imagine our 300M ever getting over the 50,000 mark while we still own it, that is, if we don't dispose of it right after the first out of warranty repair.
Our 1997 Grand Voyager had 40k on it when we traded it, and it was perfect the whole time. For some reason though, I'm a little bit wary of what's going to happen when the 300M hits the 36k mark!
as for slotting,i found autocrossers use this because it actually acts as a sort of cutting blade to clean off the hard spots on the pad,in turn leads to much quicker wear of brakes. this is also done to remove gasses which prevents the pads from touching but i found most companys doing slotting dont even cut slot all the way to the edge of rotors,which is the incorrect procedure because the gasses cant get all the way out.
as for the crossdrilling ,this aids in removal of gasses to allow the bads to bind,with out cutting material off the rotors and makes the tempature lower,resulting in increased wear,less warpage,and less brake fade .
as for the rusting,get them cad plated as this is cheap(cost me $10 each).and also adds in cooling because rust does not disapate heat very well.
as for me,i got the KVR rotors with carbon fiber pads,and i`m very satisfied. cadplated silver. looks great,and with my wheels having an open design,everyone notices them being cross drilled.
hope this helps out ! good luck
Steps are simple as follows:
Remove the seat as usual, 2 bolts in front, 2 bolts in rear.
Unplug one small and one large electrical connector.
Remove seat and look for two large T50 Torx head bolts.
Remove and replace with new bolts.
Reinstall seat.
Pics:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rpowelljr300n/vwp?.dir=/My+Photos/Seat+Movement+Fix
as for slotting,i found autocrossers use this because it actually acts as a sort of cutting blade to clean off the hard spots on the pad,in turn leads to much quicker wear of brakes. this is also done to remove gasses which prevents the pads from touching but i found most companys doing slotting dont even cut slot all the way to the edge of rotors,which is the incorrect procedure because the gasses cant get all the way out.
as for the crossdrilling ,this aids in removal of gasses to allow the bads to bind,with out cutting material off the rotors and makes the tempature lower,resulting in increased wear,less warpage,and less brake fade .
as for the rusting,get them cad plated as this is cheap(cost me $10 each).and also adds in cooling because rust does not disapate heat very well.
as for me,i got the KVR rotors with carbon fiber pads,and i`m very satisfied. cadplated silver. looks great,and with my wheels having an open design,everyone notices them being cross drilled.
hope this helps out ! good luck
I also have a rather loud whining noise coming from the front of my engine. This is something I do need to investigate but I am a famous procrastinator. The car performs great despite the annoying noise. Anybody have any thoughts on what might be causing the noise? One mechanic said it sounds like a bearing noise coming from the belts, but he'd have to start peeling things off to be certain.
Although the 300M is very attractive and a hot performer, since we are older we prefer the higher seating and better visibility of the DC minivans.
Where did you get this done or did you just buy new rotors. I am VERY interested in getting this, but everyone I talk to here in San Diego says it would cost a fortune and I would have to ship my rotors (thus no ride) for several weeks! If you have a supplier, I would love to know who!
Thanks,
Glenn
Mike
You have the 20" Tramps with the Cross Drilled Rotors ! Thats exactly what Im looking at doing... This brings up another question, last I heard KVR had a problem with the carbon fiber pads not fitting right or something... Did they correct this ? and how much did the set run you for all 4 rotors and pads ?
Ok now I gotta bug you again for the pics man... that just has to look bad [non-permissible content removed]...
Its about the size of a grapefruit. Every time I think its dry It will rain or I will wash the car and its wet again. I am going to make an appt with the 5* again and see what happens?
this is where you can find them.i got then just a cpl months ago,and very happy. i paid right at $640.00 for them,including shipping.they are located in canada.i cant remember the guys name(dave i think) that i dealt with. he was very helpful. he was unsure about the php option but he ordered a stock set of rotors to measure and make sure they worked.he actually used the DC rotors, and drilled them. you can get them cadded in silver,gold,or black. one other guy on here said he had probablems with his pads,but he bought his in `99. mine worked perfectly.
if you call them, mention my name for reference, so it might make things quicker!
andy crawford,in ohio
mine is a `99 php.
he may even offer a club discount to everyone.
as for pics,im still workin on that. weather been bad here,and had no time to even wash the thing!
i was waitin on a set of springs,but that deal went to the pits!
guess thats a sign tellin me to leave it alone,since i just raised my duelly back up a lil after 8 years of being slammed!
i`ve also got an idea on some stripes i want to try,anxious to get everyone oppinion on them.
just call them at KVR,and im sure they will take good care of you as they did me.very friendly people. i guess thats some of that canadian hospitality i`ve been hearing about!
I always did say "lifes to short to drive an ugly car"
i guess im hooked on edmunds,and yahoo!club. seems i cant go a day (wife says hours)with out checking out all this good stuff on here. afraid i might miss something i can use along the way,(not for personal gain of course). hehe ,any how,i enjoy all the info that comes this way!
just got back from a nice cruise to the Carrib. Good to be back online again.
Easyrider
http://www.geocities.com/custom_lh/Gear_Install_Photos.html
http://www.clan-510.org/0101/PT_Image.jpg
The 63-1029 is an aircharger for the 300M (actually it will fit any recent 3.5L engine.) Here's the search result from their website:
Search Results: You Searched For:
Year=2001
Make=Chrysler
Model=300M
3 Matches Found (displaying 1 to 3)
Model Engine Product Part No Comments
300M 3.5L V6 F/I Aircharger Off Road Kit 63-1029 All
300M 3.5L V6 F/I K&N Air Filter 33-2136 All
300M 3.5L V6 F/I K&N Oil Filter HP-2004 (G)
These results are a complete list of K&N products available for the vehicle entered. We release new products weekly. If you are looking for a product that is not available for your vehicle, please check back occasionally.