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Lutz went to GM. DC is heading off in a different direction with the 300.
Has anybody paid any attention to the specs on the Pontiac G6 concept? 113 in wheelbase, FWD, and 285hp. And it looks awfully similar to the current M of you stare at it long enough. In fact had DC evolved the current M it might have ended up looking a lot like the G6.
This could be interesting.
But I see 300M in the next Pontiac Grand Prix.
He said the car is in a "D" state...
Phil
I'm at $3500 in Chrysler dealer repair costs now on the 300M at 51k miles. I don't think I can afford this car.
I sure would like to drive a new LX to the 2004 Dream Cruise.
topcut -- you said your info was from the website -- which site is that? I went to chrysler.com and all I found was 2003 info, no news on upcoming redesigns. Thanks.
Has anyone on this board driven it?
Easyrider300M
Identical? No. A one for one replacement to the M? No. But then again neither is the 300N going to be a one for one to the M either.
For sure Lutz's influence at GM is written all over that car.
I am having a hard time swallowing the Chrysler/Dodge dealers' service costs. In St. Louis, they charge a flat $50 to diagnose the problem, which I can understand (the "lift fee"). But now they also charge me, on top of the $50, another $50 for 1/2 hour of mechanic time to diagnose the problem. What gives? They bill their mechanics out at $100/hour (which is probably 80% gross profit markup). The situation they are creating, I think intentionally, is that it forces you to have them do the work rather than take it somewhere else, even for a second opinion. I asked them if they would credit the final repair bill to replace the steering pump ($600 parts+labor) with the $100 and they said "no". This is getting to be worse than emergency room billing at a hospital or hiring an attorney! I do plan to voice my dissatisfaction with the Service Manager - but my experience is that it will fall on deaf ears. They've got the franchise and they know it. By the way, the Service Rep seemed to imply that if I had a service contract, their charges would be less. Essentially, those without service contracts are mullets for the taking. He told me he would NEVER advise anyone buy a Chrysler or Dodge vehicle without a service contract. Sadly, buying service contracts is practically a requirement now when you buy a car.
After the seventh year when the contract expires, its time to trade it in.
I am just saddened that the car I have loved for 4 years has let me down as frequently as it has:
2 speeed sensors
3 failed window regulators/motors?
Transmission hydraulic pump failure
A/C Evaporator leak
Steering Pump failing
All of the above ocurred between 36k and 51K miles, wouldn't you know. And I baby the car. Have never hit a pothole of any size, no curb hits, oil change every 3-5k miles, radiator flush, etc. etc. I am a good daddy.
Anywho, my '99 M turned 43,000 miles Monday night on the way to a little night skiing. Fold down half the rear seat and my 195cm K2s fit in easily, no ski rack required. Plenty of room for two passengers and their stuff, too. Another aspect of this great do-it-all sedan.
Luckily, knock plood, my window motor and speed sensor were covered by the 3/36. No issues post-warranty. I've never bought, and probably never will, buy an extended warranty. I've (again knock on plood) never had the need on any car I've owned. Of course, I've mostly owned Japaneese...but for a domestic (Chrysler, no less!) first model year, my M has been okey-dokey. Hopefully, this will continue for at least the next 20,000 miles. Even the Goodyears have been ok, if not a bit noisy.
I still love looking at this car!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I am not familiar with the Blue Coral product. I would try the mildest cleaners first and CAREFULLY work up from there in "aggressiveness". If a plain clean damp washcloth does not do it, I would try Lexol's leather cleaner. Saddle soap would be my next step, then The Tannery cleaner/protectant. Meguiar's also makes some good leather care products.
You might also try a good professional detailer (check references first!).
Good luck!
Jon
He may be able to recommend or give you some commercial product to help.
thx
Go to Town Hall New Look! and post your feedback. That is the discussion the developers are monitoring, so that's where your reactions will be heard.
Just click on that link to get there.
On a similar note, we've never taken a car anywhere for an oil change. Do it yourself, and as long as you're not a complete idiot, you'll have a much greater chance of not doing any damage. That, and you know what kind of filter and oil you've used.
I use Mobil1 synthetic and Mobil1 filter - not cheap but since I do the labor, I want the best. I now stuff a rag up around the filter and loosen it and let the oil run down the rag into the drain pan. I used to punch holes in the filter and drain it before I unscrewed it, but the rag trick works as well and faster. If you don't do this, the oil draining from the filter when you unscrew it runs onto the brakes lines (I think they are the brake lines) positioned below the filter and travels rearward resulting in a messy cleanup. I can now change the oil in 15 minutes. By the way, Griot's Garage sells a pliers type oil filter removal tool that works well to remove the filter which is difficult to get to.