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Mine sounds exactly the same wether in eco or not. Exactly. but it's an '07. I don't know if that matters or not.
k
2 weeks ago, I had the dealership replace the front brakes on my 2003 Ody. I opened the hood today and noticed the cap was not replaced on the resrevoir. I replaced the cap but am wondering if this caused a problem with contamination (dirt) to the brake fluid or allowed air in the lines. Should I demand they replace my fluid? I hope you guys can give me some ideas before I called the dealership. Thx!
Since I'm getting close to the end of my warranty, I guess I'll take it in to the dealer and see what they say.
I've continued to protest and the Honda corporate customer service representative has now taken to: (a) contacting me at times and tel. numbers where he knows he can miss me and just leave a message, and (b) misconstruing my description of the frequency and the intensity of the problem in several material and significant ways in the messages he leaves. I'd ask for his supervisor or regional VP, but I can't ever get the guy on the phone (well, OK, I could have, once, when he called as we were about to leave for synagogue on Yom Kippur - one of the times I specifically told him I would NOT be available to talk, if I didn't practically hang up on him at that point).
His latest "solution" is to leave me a message telling me that there is a "dispute" between what my dealer's service department is telling him about the problem and what I'm describing (TOTAL b.s. - and I mean TOTAL) and that, therefore, he wants me to bring the car to yet another Honda dealer and to let him know where/when I've made my appointmente so he can "talk" to that dealer as well.
I'm not doing it. The next nearest Honda dealer is 25 miles away and inconvenient (b/c Honda won't give their dealers a service area smaller than the state of Rhode Island). Morevoer, my Honda dealer service manager (whom I have a lot of faith in as he has really been trying to help me) has arranged for a tech expert to come and work on the car next week and so I will be leaving it with them.
My dealer service rep said something about adjusting the fule/air mix (to richen the fuel component) as a potential solution but expressed some concern about the impact it would have on mileage. Its hard to imagine the mileage sucking more than it already does, but I'm willing to give this guy a try at least and see what he says.
Thoughts comments - always welcome. I am frustrated beyond belief. This is the 2nd Honda in a row of (3 owned) that has given me persistent problems. There won't be another one if they don't do something about this soon.
-FS :sick:
Personally, richening the mixture doesn't seem like the way to go.
I'm a decent diagnostician and a user friendly car-guy - I love 'em - but I also know where my knowledge limitations are. I'm kinda over my head here and, at this point, I really don't care anymore what's wrong. I just want it to either be fixed or for Honda to make it right for me by either: (a) buying the car back, (b) putting me in a new vehicle, or (c) adjusting my loan balance to reflect the added costs of running on premium fuel at a mileage rating that's 20% lower than what they advertised.
-FS
The dealer tried to rope me into $1,300 worth of repairs on the one door and recommended I do the same to the other door, for a total bill of $2,600. After I peeled myself off the roof, they admitted that in order to fix the specific problem I brought the car in for, it would cost about $300. I had them make the repair and I picked up the car (along with many dire warnings form the dealer).
This got me thinking...I am a decent mechanic and was wondering what it would take to convert the automatic doors to manual operation. The car is 7-1/2 years old and I would like to get over 10 years out of it (only 90k miles so far). It would be a shame to junk the thing just because of the doors.
Has anyone done this or know where I can get info? It seems like it shouldn't be overly complex.
door panel:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=SLIDING+DOOR- +PANEL
door lining:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=SLIDING+DOOR- +LINING
door lock:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=SLIDING+DOOR- +LOCKS+%282%29
door motor:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=SLIDING+DOOR- +MOTOR
I had the specific problem (remote switch) repaired, but was just looking down the road to possible problems I may encounter in the future.
Sorry for the late reply - I've been out of town.
I have tried peeling, saturating with water, rubbing alcohol, acetone, etc., but these lil sonofaguns dont wont to come off.
Anyone have a clean removal solution or suggestion....please??!??
And so, Honda has taken the suckers corporate stance and informed me that it is a "normal operating condition" for which they will do absolutely nothing further. The Customer Service Rep. refused to give me the name of his supervisor, (saying he had none), or a written determination of my claim. When I asked for the telephone number of his District Parts & Service Manager, with whom he had discussed the matter, he replied "I don't have the facility for providing you with that information." I asked him to repeat that b/c I couldn't believe my ears and he said it again, to which I finally replied: "Well, what the hell does THAT mean?!"
Finally, I asked him to have the DPSM call me, which he finally did, but only to tell me that the noise is in all of them and that I'll just have to get used to it. When I explained that I'm already eating it in the wallet b/c the car gets 3-5 mpg less than it should and that having to put in premium fuel now adds insult to injury, he actually had the stones to accuse me of "buyer's remorse" b/c of the mileage issue - like I'm trying to scam a new car out of them.
The DPSM then said each of the 6 Odys his wife has had in the last 6 years has done this (I pointed out that I am NOT a DPSM and that I DON'T get a new car every year). He next tried to tell me that this knocking is b/c of the close cylinder head tolerances in current designs for fuel intermix efficiency and he flat out refused to concede the validity of my well established point that knocking, regardless of engine design or Honda reliability, is BAD for an engine's longevity.
I've heard the "turn the radio up" story before and it usually results in serious post-warranty engine problems with a manufacturer only too happy to tell me I'm now out of warranty and no longer their problem.
Don't know what to do at this point. I guess I could write to the President of American Honda or go to Channel 2 "Shame on You" or one of the other News Reporter Trouble Investigators. But, that would just embarass my dealership, which I still need to maintain a service relationship with and which has, otherwise, been very good about trying to fix this problem. Plus, my wife really likes the car and there was really nothing else out there that met all of our needs at the time and was as fun to drive. But I don't want to pay $500 a month for 5 years and then have the engine blow-up on me.
There's a chance my dealer can get me out of this car and into an '08 Ody with the VCM motor (less likely to knock) for roughly the same payment but I'm not sure that the math really favors me very much and I may just be forced to eat the added cost of putting premium in the car and running it as is for the rest of its life.
Needless to say that this 3-time Honda customer is increasingly less likely to be a 4-time Honda customer.
-FS
I may wind up just having to eat this and put premium gas in at my expense. Kinda sucks, but I can't keep wasting time on this problem - I'm too busy trying to live the rest of my life.
They may have won this time.
I normally trade in for a new car between 1 to 3 years.
I just traded in my 2005 Odyssey for a 2007, and the engine for my 2005 runs well with over 31,000 miles.
I would change your oil sometime after the mileage minder gets to 20% unless you don't get there in 6 months or so and then change by the months gone by instead.
However, the dealer will try to sell you on the 10k, 20k, 30k, etc mile packages, which really, in my mind dont add up to being cost effective. If they change the oil and filter and do a 20 point inspection for $24.99, then how can they sell the same service on the 20k mile service package for $199.99. When I inquired, they explained they conduct a "more thorough 20 point inspection and lube the chassis"...OK, for the extra $175.00 DONT lube me! I typically tell them NO, unless it falls under the Manufacturer suggested service interval...NOT the dealers. Sometimes, you can get them to reset the oil change light, but not always. I have been lucky. Most times they wont reset it without performing the full service. Good luck.
I have a 05 Ody EX-L with 35500 miles. SOMETIMES, during highway driving, on braking, i feel a shudder in the brake pedal and some of these times, the brake pedal shuddering is very pronounced and i see the steering wheel shaking/shuddering as well. This does not happen always - seems highly pronounced on declining sloped road and sometimes on flat sections.
Is this likely to be a front brake rotor problem? And if so, should this be covered by Honda Warranty during first 36K miles/3 years.
Thanks
Bob
I have mentioned this to the Honda dealer, but they have so far ignored this. I will take the car back now to have them check this out in more detail. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong with the car to cause this problem?
If it is lugging, much more likely to knock (and not good for the drivetrain). You can hit the OD off button (to light up D3) which should drop it down a gear and up the RPM. Maybe that will help?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
-FS
However, the best way to reproduce it (my service manager showed me this) is to put the car in Drive, left foot firmly on the brake pedal, and use your right foot to bring the rpm up to around 2000 rpm with the car straining against the brake at a standstill. You should hear it right away. Mine sounds like a small babyrattle (the kind that has a plastic pea in a sealed plastic cup).
The dealer service manager says it has to do with the revised 2007 head design. Something about the top of the combustion chamber tolerances being tightened and the lean air/fuel mixture not quite cutting it in that environment. I'm not convinced, but don't know enough to argue beyond the fact that detonation = BAD FOR MOTOR.
The ironic thing is that, after 21,000 miles of this, my dealer service manager had the engine apart and said there is no scoring on the cylinder walls and no chipping on the pistons, which makes me wonder if it actually is detonation. Thus, Honda has given me the standard "its a normal operating condition - we don't fix normal operating conditions" line and refused to do ANYTHING else.
With me, adding higher octane fuel minimized (though it never eliminated) the problem. I find that running it on 91+ seems to work. At least for now.
I got Honda corporate involved and they were incredibly rude to me. After distorting my claims, calling me at times/places/numbers they knew I would not be available at, and generally totally misunderstanding (deliberately I believe) the nature of my complaint, they gave me the corporate brush-off. When I complaint, the local DPSM actually accused me of having "buyer's remorse" after I complained about having to take a financial hit on premium gas on top of the fact that car gets way worse mileage than was originally advertised.
Of course, I could start a class-action lawsuit and make 'em fix EVERY knocking Honda, but I haven't decided if the grins and giggles that would come with tweakin' them on my turf (I'm an attorney) is worth my time. Probably not....I'm probably better off working harder to make the $$$ necessary to pay for the $4-$5,000 extra this car is gonna wind up costing me in fuel over its life (assuming the
detonation, uh, 'scuse me, "normal operating condition" doesn't blow up the engine early).-FS
I also find that it makes the sound when at low rpm the eco light is on and I step on the gas. It seems to have problems at that point.
I drive mostly highways and with the road and wind noise its hard to hear it under those conditions. After 20,000 miles the car functions otherwise extremely well.
Thanks for the info.
Just FYI, I do NOT have the eco engine. Mine is a straight EX with cloth - I have just the regular V-6. However, you are not the 1st person I've seen on this board with a problem similar to mine and an eco engine. Kinda ruins the head re-design theory too b/c the head on your motor is totally different from the one on mine from what I've been told.
Anyway...good luck!
-FS
Please don't mind if I sound cheap.
I am looking for All Weather Floor Mats for my Odyssey'07. I don't want to spend $200 bucks for Floor Mats. I am looking for cheaper ones.
I looked around in Warmart and others. They do have All Weather Floor Mats, but they are specifically for Car, SUV & Trucks. But they didn't mentioned about VANS.
Is there any way I could get cheaper Mats for my Ody? if so where can I get them? and what will be the price for them?
Does these Mats from Walmart fit in my ODY?
I appreciate all your Input.
Thank you.
I would be interested if there is a Next Best "Non Honda" Engine Oil Filter and Non Honda Engine Oil to use that will allow me to save some dough yet not destroy my engine. Kinda like the idea of just running to the store to stock up. I am not against buying genuiene Honda Parts, but I am against paying premium for name brand if it does not bring anything to the table. If I can find a cheap substitute, for lack of better word, that provides 97% same benefit to original I would be open to it. Any suggestions for alternate eng oil filter and eng oil would be appreciated.
I've read the manual and it says the computer will tell you when things need to be done with codes that you look up in the owners manual. The problem is you don't know when something has to be done until it's due. No way to anticipate maintenance.
The dealer says Honda has it all screwed up. He says if he does maintenance and resets the light it also resets the mileage and you never get past the first mileage reminder. How dumb is that?
Is there a list of maintenance items and the mileage they are due?
Unfortunatley, Costco used to sell the mats in black, but now they only carry with either grey or brown. :shades:
They are very easy to replace. Here's how...
NOTE: ensure that you wipe the dirt and debris from around the ignition coils. You don't want anything to fall into the engine.
Remove the top plastic cover.
Disconnect the wires from the ignition coils
Remove the screw that holds the ignition coil in place
Gently pull the ignition coil out of the engine.
Removing/replacing the spark plugs is a little trickier in that you need to have a socket wrench with a 6-inch extender, and a spark plug socket with a rubber gasket to 'grab' the spark plug.
The best deal that I've seen on these parts online is from www.HandA-Accesories.com. While everyone has the ignition coils for $50 - $62, these guys sell genuine Honda OEM ones for $40.
I paid the $72 for the service manual and it's been worth it but, currently, I've misplaced it (moving; life in boxes).
Thanks much!
-FS
I'll be calling my dealer to make an appointment on Monday, but I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem - is it endemic to the model or is it just a repair issue that happened to arise with my car?
-FS
There is a TSB out on this, but I would have expected it to be fixed by the '07 odel year?
Of course, I would have more confidence in that if this wasn't the 2nd time I had the same repair done (think the first was last winter).
Now I wonder if this is an annual maintenance item, like putting on the coat of winter wax?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
btw - i don't skimp on oil - I don't think that non-synthetic oil is much good past about 3500 - 4000 miles. i don't think that an oil filter can do its job for the 10,000 miles that synthetic oil can supposedly run. i change my oil and oil filter every 5000 miles with honda filter and synthetic oil (castrol syntec). Its easer for me to remember to change at this interval whether the car reminds you or not (which it does on my 06 civic - i'm not sure what interval my 07 ody lx reminds me).