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Anyone had this issue before or any possible reasons?
Thanks,
:confuse:
cutoff where I can't read all of it after posting. I hope
that this posting without a picture makes all of the
text visible.
How do you replace the lights behind the HVAC cluster? How the light in the lip over the dvd player? Or the lights behind the left and right seat heater switches? Or the lights behind the transmission selector (park, reverse, neutral, drive....)? Or the dash switches to the left of the steering wheel?
My 2005 Odyssey has 108k miles on it. I routinely drive with the lights on (day and night). Many of these lights are out on my van, but I can't find anything about this in the owner's manual or the the expensive Helm shop manual or Helm electrical system manual that I bought. It's not a fuse, because they've been going gradually. I don't relish the thought of paying the dealer to do this.
My 2006 Honda Odyssey at 37000 miles had the maintenance minder come on with Code B but there was no sub item code displayed (such as 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5). Have you seen that before? If yes what was the fix? According to manual a sub item code should appear.
Thanks
If that don't work, call service at a Honda dealer, they may help.
Write back if you figure it out.
Thanks Karl
I did the oil change, reset the service minder and the service code reset to 100% as normal. I guess I have to wait to next service minder. I called the Honda dealer about it and they said it is strange too! I will wait to next service minder before I take it in in case it happened again.
Thanks
I have checked the track for debris/obstructions/loose rubber trim, etc. and can find nothing visibly out of place or different from it working sibling on the passenger side.
Any ideas of what's causing this? If you have a TSB all the better. Thanks!
-FS
1) PCV valve replacement $119 (don't remember why)
2) Power Steering fluid change $89.95 (said the fluid was dark and should be lighter. Also said power steering was an issue with 2007 Odyssey's)
3) Throttle body service $79.95 (saw carbon build-up on the throttle body plate).
My car seems to be running fine. Are these items needed maintenance?
Thanks in advance.
Got new pollen (cabin) filters for my accord and odyssey. Accord, dropped glove box and popped it right in.
Odyssey, for the life of me, I can't get the lower glove box to drop (and I know that I have replaced tis myself, almost positive).
Took the little arm on the left side off the peg. Then, squeezed the sides in as much as I could, but it would not budge. I was at the point where I thought I was going to rip the darned thing out of the car or snap it if I pushed any harder.
Is there some magic step I am missing? Cause I really hate to pay the dealer to do this, when I have one sitting in the garage!
###############################
UPDATE: OK, figured it out (thanks to the miracle of google). I did not realize that you had to pry the clips out of the side of the glove box. I guess those stops make it glide better, but really seem to be overkill!
But, as with most projects, now that I fiugred it out, I could do another one in about 30 seconds.
And man, that filter was nasty full of crap and dirt. Going on 6 years old (the car) and just turned 60K, and this is probably the 2nd replacement? Unless I missed one, but I am thinking yearly might be a little better idea!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
While at the local mechanic for an oil change last week, he pointed out that my front motor mount is starting to go. He powerbraked it (no more than 1500 rpm) and each time he stepped on the throttle from idle, I could see the engine move what appeared to be about 7-10 degrees of motion.
Is this normal for this car? Do you think it would be covered by the HondaCares warranty? It seems like it's pretty clearly a powertrain issue.
Thanks in advance!
In some ways, the Japanese makers are going down the same road the Euros did. Increasingly complex (and failure prone) technology for minimal if any noticable gain.
the shocks, IMO they are just way undersized for the loads a minivan tends to carry. Only car I ever had where both rear shocks were shot (leaking and blown, not just wearing out from use) in under 40K.
Oh, and while it is true the Honda powertrain warranty probably would not include motor mounts, the Honda care most likely will. And they are not particularly cheap to replace.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I am not sure if you can find an actual schedule now, but you may be able to find one from an earlier model (not sure if my 2005 manual has anything, and I don't have it handy).
I do have a 2005 Accord also, so I tend to look at that for reference.
At that mileage, at minimum you would have been due for a brake fluid flush, cabin filter, and the usual oil changes.
Me, I would replace the engine air filter and for sure do a tranny fluid chance (drain/fill) just to be cautious. Timing belt is due at 105K or 7 years. Coolant and plugs probably also around that time. So really, not much for you to deal with now.
You can ask the dealer if they can trace any service records, and if not, IMO assume the fluids were never done and just check the 2 air filters. if they were never changed, they will be filthy.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
http://www.hondaoffife.com/Schedules/1999-2008Odyssey.pdf
Unrelated question: I need to replace the cloth inserts on the inside door pulls for the front doors. They've gotten disgustingly black with grime and dirt and can no longer be cleaned anymore. Can I get a replacement for just the cloth part (and how is it removed/installed) or do I have to by an entire inside door handle assembly (with the window switch and related switchgear)?
Thanks! :shades:
Dealer says that they have to remove the player and send it out for repair. Dealer also says that, HondaCares warrantly notwithstanding, if the CD(s) stuck inside have adhesive labels on them, and that is the cause of the repair, we will have to pay for it and the warranty won't cover it.
I think this is unfair - I do not recall reading anything or being notified by Honda that putting a home burned CD or a CD-RW with an adhesive label on it into one of these devices is either ill-advised or a potential warranty voider.
Does anybody have any info. on this? I'm particularly interested in:
- any TSB's or recalls
- your thoughts on the warranty issue, and
- anticipate cost of repair and/or alternatives to same
Thanks!
-FS :sick:
I h'v a 2010 odyssey EX-L that has done 4000 miles. I'm planning on a road trip that require me to drive over 1200miles. The oil range is aruond 80%. I would like to know if it is okay to do "maintenance A" before i start?
-SG
That means the oil can go for another 1125 miles (15% of 7500 miles).
I think you can just take your trip and change the oil when you get back.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
i have 2005 honda odyssey and i bought the vehicle back in january.
i bought used certified vehicle with the extra cover warranty.
which they they told me its bumper to bumper cover warranty. i paid extra
$2000 for it and soon as we sign and finish the paper work. we left the tomwood honda
dealership. we stopped the vehicle at the traffic and we find there is problem with the
vehicle and when we drive the vehicle there is shaking problem. and we called dealership right away. and they told me that we can get that fix anywhere in U.S cover with the warranty.
because we were had to New Jersey right next day.
so we went to local honda service in new jersey. and they dynostic the vehicle they couldn't find
anything wrong. they told that there is somthing wrong with the tires.
but i knew that there no big problem with the tires.
and right next day. the vehicle steeling wheel were to hard to turn. and i took it back to the honda service. and they told me that steeling wheel oil pump need replace.
in 3days since i bought the used certified vehicle cost me that problem. and even better honda care won't cover with that warranty. because its used certified vehicle before "Tomwood Honda"
should fix the problem before they sold the vehicle because its certified.
but they actually reanverse the invoice to me 2weeks later.
but they still didn't find the main problem. and now almost 3months later. my brake pad went out.
and before that van was still shaking. and one day i took at get it oil change and they find out there somthing wrong with caliber on the brake that's why it cause that problem, shaking problem.
honda service they actually test the van 3time they never could find the problem. in 10 min oil change guy find out that caliber its went out that why lock the brake system cause the shaking.
so now i took it back to honda service and i told them that there is problem with caliber on the right hand side front passenger.
and guy call me back in 5hours later they did find out caliber its went out. so they gonna fix it with the warranty and also they told me that my brake pad is also need to replaced.
but i told them that the reason brake pads went out is because caliber. so honda should replace everthing. but they denied that. but i said its ok than just fix caliber for me.
and guy told me that they get that ready in 2days.
but rgiht next day they call me honda's not gonna cover with that warranty. because caliber went out because that brake pads.
so what they trying to do here. is make customer pay everthing for it.
and before i want a ask question we almost got in to big accident because that problem.
and my question is Tom Wood honda fiance maneger actully lie to us that warranty is cover bumper to bumper.
what should i do with this situation?
should i sue the dealership and honda care?
However, if you've had this only 3 months and appear to have a brake issue in such a short time, then this defect should have been caught if this was a HONDA CERTIFIED USED CAR. If this was a HONDA CERTIFIED USED CAR, then you need to contact Honda directly to get this resolved.
You should remain polite with the whole thing or else you won't get anywhere. Collect all of your paperwork, make records of all phone conversations, and copies of all letters.
You need to actually read all of your contracts and warranties to understand what your rights are.
Are you sure you have a Honda Extended warranty? I've never heard of Honda denying a claim when a Honda Dealer submits the repair.
Good luck.
I just bought a 2007 Odyssey EX-L-RES with 68,800 miles. I went to https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com
and developed a service record profile. As you have noticed, Honda is not forthcoming with the schedule. I found the following schedule at this location that states that for years 2000 and newer, change belt every 90k. The 60k statement from what I have found is for extreme conditions.
http://www.thisoldhonda.org/maintenanceschedule.php
The previous owner did an outstanding job maintaining this vehicle and I hope to do the same since I plan on keeping it a while. My 1999 V6 Accord has 228k miles and gets about 24.5 mpg. I have a 2003 Pilot that has 185k miles that I will be selling soon. We have three little kids and the interior of the pilot has been put through the ringer. About 4 hours of scrubbing and detailing should brighten it up.
Several of you have recommended Yoko Avid Tourings in the past. I see there is also a Yoko Avid TRZ. Is there much difference between the two? I'm looking for a good all-season tire. I put snow tires on the front in the winter (please don't start yelling at me about the 2 vs. 4 tires thing - already been there/done that on this site).
Any other recommendations?
Thanks! :-)
-FS
Lots of the blue residue is now back on the + terminal. The battery is down to 11.5V, with battery connected and all devices shut. Turn the engine on, the voltage is 13.5V. So I assume the alternator is good and the battery is fair.
So I tried to figure out what caused the damage to the battery. I suspected there is current leakage. So I park the van overnight with all devices shut, remove the cable from the - terminal, and insert my multimeter inline. It's over 100mA (my multimeter maxout at 100mA). So my questions are:
1. Is this the correct procedure to test the leakage?
2. What's the normal current reading? I think >100mA is way way too high. Shall it be 0 when all devices are shut?
3. Do you think my battery is damaged by this current leakage?
I took my van to a shop with very good reputation. They claimed they found nothing wrong with my van, even though they admitted there's leakage.
they are similar I believe, but the TRZ is T rated, and I believe a higher load range (the ody is about a 103 IIRC). basically a heavier duty tire.
they may have the avid tourings now in the right size and load range though. Thankfully, my TRZs are going to last 2x what the crappy OEM michelins did.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.