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I tried reading the owner's manual and it didn't work
1. Open rear hatch.
2. Look at the bottom centre of the rear hatch opening and you should see a plastic tube going down.
3. Find the long skinny metal rod that has a square end on it that fits a handle (that you also have to find - mine are under the rear seat and the handle was in a storage bin in a bag).
4. Insert the rod into the plastic tube - it is used to lower the spare tire to the ground on a chain by cranking it using the handle. You have to "feel around" a bit to get it to engage but it's not difficult.
When you crank the tire back up, I recommend installing it with the valve facing down, so you can check the pressure and air it up without removing it. Of course if you do that, you will probably forget all the above when you do get a flat, as you will not have practised lowering the tire for a long time.
FUSE BLOWING INSIDE DOME LIGHT, DOOR LOCKS, CLOCK.............
HELP -PLEASEEEEEEEEEEE..................
The problem is quite likely a short circuit somewhere in the system. You may want to try Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy while you're waiting for a reply here.
Also, reposting your message over and over really will not get you a reply any quicker. The boards tend to be quiet on Friday nights and over the weekend.
I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK since many people tend to ignore messages written in ALL CAPS.
tidester, host
Thanks in advance for response.
A clogged catalytic is dangerous to drive around with (possible undercar fire).
Did you get a second opinion on the reason for the engine conking out?
Steve, Host
If you have another vehicle, be sure to keep up on the oil changes for that as well.
BTW, there are other fluids on the vehicle that need changing periodically, too. Don't neglect those, or you'll wind up replacing the transmission, differentials, power steering system, brake system, and more!
I've heard of some Toyotas sludging up even on the factory recommended interval, so that's why I'm curious about this situation.
Steve, Host
I have 58000 miles on it. What kind of engine warranty comes standard with a Pathfinder? Any suggestions on which route I can go with this?
Thanks,
Gregg
I bought my Path month ago and i have couple troubles with it
- I need service book with explosion pictures ( motor )
- Big belt tyre which is connected with two belts
( it has also vulcanic rubber part ? ) is broken
its connected A/c, water pump with belts
( i know that nobody couldnt understand what i mean ) But if, is this "belt tyre " easy or hard to change ?
- One part missing sunroof ( inside cover )
If someone understand me and can maybe help
With many best wishes
Arto from Finland
arthur@netti.fi
Thanks
I've asked them what the sound could have been and they can't come up with an explanation. I am only 1500 miles away from my warranty being up.
Does anyone have any ideas on what I should do? I'm picking the vehicle up this afternoon and bringing it to the original mechanic to see what he has to say. Then a third party mechanic.
The people at the dealership seem a little fishy and are very reluctant to look into the engine. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Gregg
thanks
Also, when towing, be sure to turn the transmission overdrive OFF.
thanks.
On the other hand, if the water runs clear, or if you've already done this, then I guess you have some more troubleshooting to do. :confuse:
I have got a manual 2002 pathfinder. The check engine light comes on (and stays) after I drive on highway with cruise on. After it happened the first time I went to a mechanic I know and he said it's oxygen sensor #2 and zeroed the thing. But after 600-700 miles in a similar situation it went on again. Do you guys have an idea why this is happening? Is the sensor really faulty or do you think it's because when a manual car goes on cruise uphill, since the gearbox cannot kickdown, the gas-air mixture becomes richer in gas (and poorer in oxygen), which triggers the sensor to send a signal?
Many thanks for your responses.
I am having the same problem and my PF is at 60K. I have found plent of sights where people experience this. I think it is in the electrical harness, particularly in the ignition switch.
When I put in the key and turn it, the fuel system pressures up and anything connected directly to the battery (radio and air blower) come on. Anything connected to the ignition switch is unresponsive (dash lights, ignition, windows, etc). The only thing I have found to do is leave the key in the ignition and walk away. After about ten minutes it usually begins to respond. I have left two messages with my local dealer to get a quote on parts and labor for a new harness.
Good luck.
I then did more research and began to suspect the fuel pump relay. It is located in the engine compartment next to the battery in the fuse/relay box. I checked the relay when starting and could feel it click. I then decided to check the power from the relay to the fuel pump. I disconnected the wiring harness at the fuel pump (under the rear seat, access plate removed). There are 2 connectors -- the smaller connector powers fuel pump -- the larger connector is for the fuel temperature and fuel level. I connected a test light to the 2 terminals on the wire harness. At first the test light did not come on when the ignition was turned on. I removed the relay and re-seated it. Finally the light came on but when I removed the test light and connected the harness to the fuel pump and turned on the ignition it did not start. After numerious times I re-seated the relay and then the engine started. I can only figure that the contacts on the relay or the wiring harness were corroded. I then used electrical contact cleaner on the terminals and it starts every time. To be on the safe side I replaced fuel pump relay and I also cleaned out the fuse/relay box by removing the bottom of the box. I did not notice any corrosion on any of the contacts. There was only normal dust from the engine compartment and 2 dead spiders at the bottom of the case. I took apart the old relay figuring it might have a spider web in it that prevented electrical contact but it was crystal clean. I gave you as much detail as possible so you could see some of the false leads I followed. My best advice is not to make assumptions but try to use some logic and test the components to be sure they are working or not.