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Comments
Think it is down on the wheel.
Its electronic not a cable.
That is what fixed my wifes LEbaron that had the same problem.
Has anyone experienced this problem before? If it is a common problem, what are my chances of getting Ford to fix it even though the truck is out of warranty? Are there any known Technical Service Bullitins or recalls for this problem?
I am going to fix it regardless, but I think it is pretty absurd that this kind of problem is occurring on a truck this new. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Is it me or does it seem those who double post never check back?
Is double posting some kind of bad net ettiquite thing? If so, I'm sorry.
The silicone is what I'd do if the dealer makes you pay. Because all you have to do is spray a little carb cleaner or other grease cutter on the under side, start 'er up, and see where it comes from. Then you take a hefty amount of silicone and make a seal around the leak. It should take 15 minutes and 3 bucks, with that method. I also don't think there's any Ranger typicality or TSB related to it, or spoog would have posted it by now... (See Ranger vs Tacoma forum):)
You cracked me up with the spoog comment. How true it is.
Oil Leak -
I'm not sure how long the silicon will last you down there. Definitaley it won't hurt but check it once a year. Heckuva lot cheaper and less problematic than letting your dealer dip into your tranny.
How large is the leak? If it's say between 1 and 2 drips per day, try the silicon and make sure to degrease that area once every other month or so. Is this an automatic? If so, oil not degreased from those surfaces will adhere to the metal and collect dirt causing your transmission and motor to not be able to dissapate heat properly (i.e., it starts to act like insulation in a bad way) and will do things like cause transmission and engine oils to bake and fail prematurley.
If it's a larger leak, say 3-6 drops per day, well, looks like your doing some maintenance. You may also want to try the Maintenance section of Town Hall.
Good Luck,
John
Most vehicles with a Tune-recommendation of 100K miles recommend that the plugs be changed every 60K - 100K miles. The reason is not really obvious but if you think about it...your car/truck is keeping better timing without the distributless system. Therefore your spark plugs, becaused of the increased precision, tend to last in most cases, 5-6 times as long as they previously did (i.e., there is less fouling on the insulators and electrodes which will cause the plugs less damage and wear with every mile you drive). It's normal and if you feel you need to change them, it won't hurt the car. Just your wallet.
The fuel filter for a pressurized injection system (all fuel injected cars) is generically 20K miles. Check your manual though and it will tell you exactly.
PCV valve? A $.97 part you can do yourself or tack it on your tune up when they do it. Don't waste your money on this one till at least 40K miles.
Spark plug wires? You would only need to change these if: A)They're corroded or B)They're failing or C)You want to waste your money. Unless you bought the car used, I wouldn't concern yourself with these too much.
Good Luck
Consult a Chilton's manual for more help.
Thanks
Anyway, I also noted that this motor evidently has an overhead cam with an external belt drive. The truck has 95,000 miles on it and I'm wondering what the life expectency is for this belt. Also, if the belt breaks, do valves hit pistons and other bad things?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Did you have fun changing the exhaust (driver's) side of the spark plugs?
I noted on www.rangerpowersports.com that many posters claimed no problems with their 2.3's to 150,000 miles plus----are they just treating a $300 timing belt replacement as "routine maintenance"? Or is Ford's recommendation designed to pump up service business?
Anyone out there with lot's of miles on a belt or experience with when a belt actually broke?
Appreciate any feedback as my son and his fiance are on a tight budget and I don't want to tackle replacing it myself. (That is unless it's easier then changing the plugs---and it could be).
And you can probably do the belt yourself, I forget if the thermostat housing needs to come off to take off the cover, but if you don't have a service manual (haynes) or the time and knowhow, it's best just to do it at the recommended intervals. Like I said, if it breaks, you'll just be stranded for a while, but the engine won't be hurt from valve to piston contact. However if it breaks while running, your bottom end is still turning while the valves don't. This would cause detonation in the intake manifold, and is not good at all.
I changed my 90 2.3 timing belt @ 90,000 miles. It still looked OK. It was just starting to crack on the inside at the teeth. I wouldn't go much past 90K. I've also done plugs on 90 & 95 2.3s lots of fun.....
To me platinum plugs are like the Mobil 1 oil that I run for 6,000 miles (winter) to 9,000 miles (summer). Less hours (and problably cost) doing maintenance and more time for other things.
Also, the platinum plugs I took out of my son's fiance's '96 Ranger at 95,000 miles were probably the originals. Vehicle had been running OK except engine light had recently come on (who knows what turned that on). Changed plugs, wires, fuel filter because she had never done any of that since buying it at 50,000 miles. The plugs were erroded quite a bit and they needed changing but they were platinum Motorcraft with the original factory plug number. They also looked worse than the plugs I pull out at 50,000 to 70,000 miles on my own vehicles.
This controls the air mixture into the throttle area. It can carbon up and cause idle problems.
On my 94 4L, it is a silver/polished alumium canister looking thing on the left side on the motor, on the intake housing. Has wires and a connector. It is the size of 35mm film canister, but longer, about 4 inches or so.
Remove connector. Mine had 2 screws/bolts holding the 'cannister' on. The gasket under mine didn't stick or come apart and was easily re-used. You can take this apart. There is a plunger inside. I just cleaned with carb spray cleaner. I didn't have idle problems, but just cleaned as regular maintenance.
You can also buy new one and replace. Not real cheap, maybe around $50.
For general idle problems, this is first thing I would look at......
Bad plug wire could cause an idle 'miss'. I changed my plug wires when I could hear the ignition on my FM Radio stations. The AM was even worse, but I never listened to those. I had about 60,000 miles when I changed the plug wires. Bought then at Autozone/ORiley for about $25-$30. I don't believe in high-dollar plug wires, regular ones work fine.
tlc88@bellsouth.net
this is due to the ignition ring melting...
Ford has announced a HUGE recall, around 5 million vehicles. This malfunction causes the Ranger to stall.
Ford is junk.
If you're suggesting the Thick Film Ignition(TFI) is at fault you are either very ignorant or just trying to spread false rumors or both. The TFI affected vehicles from '83-'95.
Bob, I'm assuming you're still under warranty. my guess is it's a TPS that needs adjustment or the servo(forget what it's called) that ups idle RPM with A/C on. Both probably Japanese parts.
At least you don't have to worry about your head gasket blowing or your sheet metal rotting away. (neither does spoof, since he doesn't own a truck)
1) After entering a highway from a gravel road, loud metallic pings are heard (even felt) as stones fly out of the Mich. LTX tread and hit the rear fenderwells. Is there a Ford or aftermarket plastic fender liner (like the front well liner) available?
2) The '01 Ranger we rented from Budget for our Wisc. vacation rode more smoothly than ours, and there was less noise and vibration from the engine. Which '01 changes could be retrofitted at moderate cost?
Thanks for your help.
"A lot of the floorboard buzz is from the engine-drivetrain resonance, and is a common problem in Rangers. You will notice it even on perfectly smooth pavement at highway speeds." -Not a common problem frey, just a reason you test drive every car you are looking into buying.