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Any help appreciated,
Jason
Thanks
RWL
The gasket on the oil pan deteriates and pieces of it fall apart into the inside of the oil pan. After enough pieces get in there, the pieces will clog the opening or screen for the oil pump pickup. Enough to significantly slow down the oil flow and cause the problem you see.
The oil pan needs to be dropped and the crap cleaned off the oil pump pickup. And a new gasket of course. Or, I have heard about a process where people have tried to pump large amount of kerosene or some such solvent into the oil drain hole and attempt to wash out the gasket pieces.
I would try to drop the oil pan. I think it can be done on a 4 banger without pulling the engine. On V6's I think the motor has to be pulled, or at least lifted significantly.
Check back and tell us what you find out....
G.
At 110,000 miles, most Rangers have a lot of miles left in them.
It's my understanding a hydrolic slave cylinder is difficult to bleed. But I'm sure mechanics do this every week. Find one that knows about working on hydrolic clutches and have them look at it.
The stumble feels like when you hit the rev limiter. The engine just dies for a moment then tries again. Like the ignition is cut off momentarily. It seems to happen between 3,000 and 5,000 RPM, with the gas peddle depressed about half way. If I back off, it quits, and runs smoothly. IF I floor it, it also quits stumbling and runs up all the way to the rev limiter.
It has no trouble holding highway speeds. Also doesn't show up if I accelerate normally and keep the revs below 4,000. This also doesn't happen when the engine is cold, only after it warms up.
I have not had a check engine light. And so I haven't put it on an anylizer.
A mechanic I know suggested changing the fuel filter, there was no change. I've also checked vacuum hoses, and wire connections. No indication of problems. Finally I disconnected the battery to allow the computer to reset and reboot. The stumble still happens.
I suspect that some sensor is not working correctly. Any ideas were to look next?
What you need to do is take the drive shaft out and pull the spline yoke out of the main shaft and re-grease the spline yoke with (I used marine grease) as it will retard moisture better, then put back in and get (2) new clamps for the boot.
Smooth as a babies behind. This is an issue on all 4X4 and is caused by the old grease not allowing the spline to slip in and out, guess 4X4 have more torque expansion.
Anyway this will take care of the problem and is cheaper than having the dealer do it, takes about an hour to fix..
Oh, by the way, the TSB #99-13-4 has been superseded.
The TSB #99-13-4 has been superseded, don't know what number now but maybe you won't need it when I explain.
The problem is with your shaft spline, the little shaft that hooks to the bigger main shaft, the grease in it gets old and hard and will not let the main shaft expand correctly. You have to unbolt the front spline shaft and pull the spline out and put (marine grease) in it, it has better moisture control, then put the spline shaft back in and put (2) new clamps back on the boot so you won't get water in it, and thats it, takes about and hour and your done.
Hope this helps....
I have a 1988 Ranger 2.3, 4 cylinder w/fuel injection. It's had all its routine maint. performed timely and is in excellent running codition...until recently. Last month I had the TPS sensor replaced when the truck began to idle rough, hesitate during acceleration, stall and lose power. I was amazed at the difference the sensor made! Felt like driving a new truck. However the hesitation returned.
I was told by several people to use Sea Foam through my brake booster line to clean out the gunk in the engine and all should be fine - I did and now it rund worse than it ever did. It takes a lead foot to get to 30 - 40mph. The hesitation seems to be an all time thing now :confuse: . I can tell it wants to run like a champ, it idles great and has brief moments of smooth acceleration but it's being held back. Has anyone else ever experienced this? Could the Sea foam have made it worse? Any help would be appreciated.
I really need your help due to severe lack of funds.
This problem started after i was stuck and have to spin the tires alot to get out. However, this may just be coincidence. The rpms only go up to 3500 when truck is in moving (I can put the clutch in when parked and the rpms do not go up) and come back down after completing the shift. When i come to a stop and put the clutch in the revs again go up to 3500 rpms for about 4 seconds then come back down.
I've replaced the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) that wasn't it...any suggestions?
Am asking assistance on the mounting location/hardware/process for a CB antenna on my 06 Ranger. I used a magnet mount for my Jeep, but will likely get the whip type for the Ranger. I'm guessing rear bumper mount is the way to go. Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated, as well as any recommendations for an inexpensive "kit" (antenna/cable/mount bracket).
My e-mail is public if you'd rather communicate via that method.
Thanks again!
Randy
I buy the fiberglass antenna from Radio Shack which are white and about 4 foot long. They are top loaded, but you really can't see much of the wire, there is just a bulge at the top 6 inches or so.
This antenna has no real mount, it is made to mount, and ground, through a hole in something, a hole about 1/2 inch across. It does has the spacers and insulator rings, etc.
Find some mounting bolt for the rear bumper that can be removed. Drill a hole in one end of the bar stock that this bolt will go thru.
You can then bend the bar stock into about any shape you need to go down, back, left or right, to clear the rear bumper. Bring a couple or so inches out past the rear bumper face. Cut the bar stock again there.
Drill another hole in this bar stock for the mounting hole needed by the antenna. Assemble the antenna thru this hole.
Be careful that you can open the tailgate, which means the antenna will be at the left or right corner of the vehicle. The toughest part is getting the cable 'outside' the cab of the truck. Many times there are rubber plugs in the floor of the cab that you can feed the cable thru. Reseal with silicone rubber. Attach the antenna along the frame with plastic ties using brake lines, fuel lines, etc.
After tieing the antenna into the cable, I usually put a glob of silicone over all these open wires at the base of the antenna.
One nice thing, this white antenna can be painted body color. It then looks very nice.
This location isn't the very best for antenna reception, but you seldom talk 'long distane' on a CB anyway. You cannot wash the truck with the large rotating brush auto washs either. Ok, I've forgotten and done this, the antenna usually comes out horizonal rather than vertical.
I've run this assembly for many years. Using the same bar stock on multiple vechicles. It is very springy and the antenna will bend at speed. I've NEVER had the bar stock break on me. And I mean that I usually end up with 3 or 4 right angle bends between the body bolt and the antenna. And as I said, I put these thru a brush car wash a few times. I have had the center wire break off after a few years where it ties into the antenna. The antenna will flex around and after a few years, the copper wire may not be flexing the same amount, and will break. I usually also take the woven steel shield material on the end and a self tapping screw, and ground it into the bar stock. This screw will usually rust up after a few years even with the silicone around it.
These look good when painted. A small problem might be walking into it if your garage is dark.
I don't take my vechicles off road or through brusk. If you do, this mount probably isn't for you.
The main positive point for this mount, in my opinion, is that you end up with NO holes in the vehicle.
I'm guessing the bar stock you mentioned can come from a place such as Lowe's or Home Depot?
Many thanks for your time in answering!
Randy
Any help you could provide would be appreciated.
Thanks,
kimble989
I saw your posting is from a month ago...haven't been on here much lately, but if this helps...
I had a Dodge Dakota doing the same thing about 3yrs ago. Would rev very high then not go over 15mph. I thought I had lost my transmission, but it turned out to be my catylitic converter had dropped a chunk of "something" inside itself and clogged the venting process. After a lift on the tow truck the piece of "something" fell free and the truck ran fine. Tow guy didn't believe me, I think he thought I just wanted to be towed and pay him $50!
Kimble989
If so, turn key ON without starting and listen for the fuel pump to run. It should run for a few seconds.
If it doesn't start, I would check the fuel pump relay. Then, the pump itself might be going out.
But what ended up fixing my truck is both O2 sensors were bad. Just thought I'd let someone else know what all to begin checking if you get these codes.
My 06 Ranger (Sport) has the raised "power dome" hood, with a tapering crease down the middle. I'm thinking of painting that area, both for looks and to break up the all-white hood, in a flat black finish.
After prepping properly (masking, degreaser, etc), is it necessary to use a fine-grit sandpaper to rough-up the existing paint so the paint I want to apply with adhere better?
I'm not experienced in paint/body work, but I believe this is something I'm capable of with a bit of advice.
Thanks to all in advance!
Randy
For sure you will need to abrade the glassy surface you're planning on painting. If it were me, after carefully masking the area with the shape you want, I'd try some steel wool first (buy different grades of coarseness); if this takes too long to dull the finish, then try sand paper. The tricky part will be near the edge of the masking tape -- you want to roughen-up the paint without deteriorating the line of the masking tape. Vacuum, move vehicle to enclosed area, wait ~half-hour for dust to settle, then while trying to not raise any dust carefully wipe area with a tack cloth (sticky cloth that will remove any remaining dust, available where paint is sold), and spray paint with good quality paint (Rustoleum "Stops Rust" in the white cans works great for speaker enclosures but not sure how well it would stand up to UV and washings; check-out an automotive paint supply house to see if they have anything in an aerosol) (if it were me I'd lean toward a semi-gloss instead of a flat). Remove masking tape right after painting and leave area until paint is dry.
Also consider taking a photo of the truck with a digital camera and use photoshop to simulate the paint job to see if it seems to look ok (or just get a Ranger brochure and use a pencil or pen to shade the appropriate area).
I took my '01 V6/4.0L SOHC Ranger to a local service shop. He used the ol' snap on to read what was going on with my check engine light. Got the codes above for lean fuel mix. So, we replaced both 02 sensors. Cleared the codes and hoped for the best. No change, light came back after roughly 22miles. It actually is running worse now than before. It idled very low and rough for a sec then stalled on me twice while going thru a drive-thru.
I just purchased an MAF sensor and will be replacing that myself when it comes in(don't trust the mechanic that much if it isn't Ford itself...but very expensive!).
Is there anything else this may be? The truck runs fine once going and is 90% running good at idle, but runs rough and stalls once in a while.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Randy
Your Ranger should then be ready to give you another 11 years of relay service.