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The squeak I had was from the brake shoes rubbing on the back plate, they moved because the rear drums were out of round. Normally they (and I) would have simply had the drums resurfaced and trued. But they said since it was under warranty, Ford had to replace. There are three little ridges on the back plate that contacts the brake shoe. You can put a dab of lubricant on the ridge and the squeak will stop. You could also feel a light pulsing in the brake pedal. I had no hassle at all from the dealer. I told him what it was doing, they drove the truck, it did what I was complaining about, they ordered the rear drums (both). The only thing some folks would complain about was it took him overnight to get the parts.
Don't think I'm crazy, but do you have a sqeal or squeak? There is a difference. Mine was a squeak...
i really like the truck overall, however, my mileage driving around town is (imo) terrible. i am averaging 13 mph, using regular. i've had two dealers look at it, and they just shrug their shoulders, or tell me this is about the best i can expect. any ideas?
also, does anybody know what the decal on the lift gate by the ford oval mean? it shows a highway, with a flame on it? emissions? would this have any effect on overall mpg?
thanks for any suggestions/ideas.
mike
what is a k&N filter, and where can they be obtained...how much do they increase mpg?
thanks
Actually a quick web search found the following:
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/flextech.shtml
You might wanna check your owner manual as well.
A K&N filter is a air filter that provides better airflow than stock paper elements. It helps your engine breathe better(suck air in better), and can thus produce more power. More power can increase your fuel milage a slight amount, but only if you keep off the ole lead foot, which is hard when you get more power. Any Pep boys, autozone, O'reilly or other auto parts store should carry them.
Also consider removing the intake snorkle/silencer in front of the airbox will improve airflow.
the thing on the tail gate indicates the "tree-hugger" engine. It can run on "flexible-fuel" something like ethanol, pressed corn stalks, and other so called environmentally friendly safe fuels. They are not readily available in the Southeast so I don't know much else about it. I have read that it was dropped for 2002. As for poor mileage, I agree with stang, check air cleaner, etc. Outside of the 2.3 Fords don't do very well on fuel mileage.
Good Luck
I actually expected a bit more since my last 2 s-10's got 24-27MPG.
Something is definitely wrong with 13MPG.
Years ago, I bought some of those split-fire plugs. I did not notice an increase in power or mileage, but I still have them in.
Heck of a great truck.
That's why I think I'll do just fine with the 3.0l in my 2003 regular cab, with 5 speed manual.
mikedeal--->Try running the usual injector cleaners and other likewise products through the engine. I don't see how you would loose milage by running 100% gasoline (0% ethanol), but you could have some carbon deposits, or other build/clog. A dirty sensor, or even a fuel filter could be the cuplrit.
if still no improvement, it has been suggested that i contact the regional rep for ford while the truck is still under warranty.
i live in the seattle area...anybody know how to contact this person? my local ford dealer isn't much help...tell me i should live with the problem.
thanks
When I take my 2001 4.0 liter 4 door extended cab(14000 miles) in for service I always here someone thanking them for there great service.
James
It was a very deceptive sound. I know it may sound too simple to be the cause for other people's complaints, but you never know!
2001. (City/Hwy)
Manual: 17 mpg / 22 mpg
Automatic: 16 mpg / 21 mpg
Horsepower: 150 hp @ 5000 rpm
Torque: 185 ft-lbs. @ 3750 rpm
2002.
Manual: 19 mpg / 22 mpg
Automatic: 17 mpg / 22 mpg
Horsepower: 154 hp @ 5200 rpm
Torque: 180 ft-lbs. @ 3900 rpm
Couple this with a regular cab, 2 wheel drive, and a 5 speed manual, and it should be real peppy and economical. I hope to purchase this or better when the 2003 models roll out.
The dealer deodorized it twice (no help) then said they had to pull the dash and replace the evaporator. But they later copped out as the tech. couldnt duplicate my concern. I went to another dealer who said they are well aware of the problem ... they had a service bulliten or something on it ... and they would need to replace the evaporator. They too ended up not replacing it (they told me that didnt apply to my truck) but installed what the service writer described as a "reverse fan" to prevent the smell's return.
But again, it is the buildup itself making me sick, not the smell.
When I got my truck back, there was a pre-printed flyer inside stating: "A module has been added to turn on the blower motor for two minutes after your vehicle has been parked for 45 minutes. This will help prevent the return of odors from the AC system."
So far no odor, but I still get very sick whenever I run the blower and/or AC. Is the dealer being straight, or is this being used as a "mask" for a deeper probem? Thanks
THE ONLY WAY TO TELL WHAT SIZE TIRES CAME ON YOUR TRUCK, IS TO LOOK AT THE BUILD TAG ON THE INSIDE OF THE DRIVER'S DOOR. IT WILL TELL THE SIZE OF TIRES THAT CAME ON IT AND THE AIR PRESSURE. CHECK THIS TO BE SURE. GOOD LUCK.
I haven't been sick because of it but i do wonder if what i'm breathing is unhealthy.
Also, what is the best oil filter to use and how many miles have any of you been putting on between changes? I usually go 3000 but consumer reports said 5000 and so did cartalk.
motorcraft oil filters with havoline 5-30. 3000 mile intervals
1) Take the truck for a drive from say 50 to 70 MPH. Note for nasty vibration of floorbards and seats. This could be the difficult to fix drivetrain vibe. In some cases, a badly machined driveshaft extension flange (splines leading from AT) were the culprit. If you buy one with a bad shaft-flange out of warranty, it is an expensive fix. 2) These trucks are notorious for "jitter" and bounce on the freeway. If you are used to 4x4's, fine, a non-issue. If you use your truck like a car, this may be very annoying to you. 3) Most of these trucks had bad turn signal/ wiper control microswitches. The "phantom wiper" problem where wipers come on by themselves, or, like my case don't work at all. CHECK THE WIPERS as you drive, for an extended period; cycle them on and off a few times.
3) Make sure cruise and A/C work properly, and also look for LEAKING REAR SEALS AT REAR OF TRANNY, another common problem (a 450 dollar fix out of warranty). 4) The 4.0 is a NOISY motor. It can sound like it is a coffee can full of ball bearings when it is cold. A "rod like " knock is fairly common, and is typical of that motor (the one I own). They will be noisy for 150 000 miles, and are very strong engines. Don't be alarmed about the noise.
5) If the AT has a 5 speed OD, CHECK THE OVERDRIVE AND MAKE SURE IT IS WORKING properly. Drive the truck at about 45 to 55 and cylcle the OD on and off at intervals of say 15-20 seconds. It should reliably go on and off securely on level ground, with the dash indicator light showing.
A LSD uses slip clutches on the rear wheels to help transfer load to the wheel that is spinning the most (useful for boat ramps and snow with an empty truck). A true LOCKER literally mechanically locks up the rear end so BOTH wheels literally are behaving as if on a solid rear axle. This feature is useful offroad or in severe snow or ice conditions, but UNUSEABLE of course on dry pavement. Most guys would never use or even need a locker UNLESS an offroader. I own a 2000 Ranger 4.0 4x4, but wish I would have bought an F-150 or a Tundra. The highway ride in my Ranger is pretty miserable, vibrating badly most of the time; I tried upgrading tires to Michelins, but it actually made the ride worse (although the truck handles better). The engine has been reliable and strong. I LOVE the 4 door cab, its best feature; the ride is its worst feature. Good luck.
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/20/982023C3.html
Ok, you need to start replacing anything that counts as rotating assembly or unsprung mass.
You did tires, and I assume wheel rims. How about rotors? How about driveshafts? It could be anything, but you need to start having it checked out, piece by piece.
tbunder--->I think motorcraft filters are OK, but they don't seem to be the best. They do offer great oil flow, which helps on keeping the oil circulating, but I use mobil 1 filter with a homemade magnet on the side to catch all those metal particles floating around. Typically use Gastrol GTX, but I am thinking of the havoline high milage oil for next time...
flea--->Autozone sells code scanners, but I'm not sure if they can do it for free. Most vehicles have self diagnostic methods that either require a unique combination of buttons and ignition to be set, or a voltmeter to read the codes. But a actual code scanner is much easier. But I'd have to agree with tbunder, could be the O2 sensor, assuming you've kept up with everything else (filters, pcv, map, etc)
crispy--->Frey has a good description down. Just remember Lockers are either full time (think john Force funny car) or part time. Full time lockers can't turn for squat, because both rear wheels want to turn EXACTLY alike. Part time lockers (like the one found on Tacoma) are activated when you're rock climbing, or off-roading a difficult section. Limited Slip Differentials are "full time" as they have no counterpart to engage or disengage. They work all the time, using clutches to deliver power to the wheel(s) that are not slipping. The clutches do wear out eventually, which could be anywhere from 60k to 100k, depending on driving style. But the thing to mention about Limited Slip's are they work all the time. If you are driving though a country road, with plenty of curves, and it's rainy or iced over, the LSD will help you when one wheel starts to spin. Lockers don't help you turn at all, and when locking differentials are not activated, they are open wheel, or driving off one wheel only.
Peace, bro. Just be HONEST on your appraisals; post the WHOLE truth. You are a "Ford can do no wrong" guy, thru and thru. We all know that.
The alarm ties into the locking circuits, and might have disrupted a connection. The Horn is probably easy to change if you want. And the Battery could be old or their could be a drain, which would probably be alarm related.
If you have an autozone in the area, they will do a free check on your battery to see how many amps it is putting out. Then you'll know where to begin.
Hope everything else turns out right.
Frey only has 15,000 miles on the thing. Please explain to me how using havoline oil and motorcraft oil filters is going to fix the vibration? Can I borrow your blinders for a week or two?
But the biggest lesson is to take any vehicle you are about to purchase for a test drive. Be sure to reach highway speeds and listen for anything.
If you don't, then that's kind of like buying an airplane, and just taxiing around the runway before buying it. Only to find out when the plane actually gets airborne, it has a vibration in the body.
Anybody who believes they all come from the factory like that has the blinders on.
Blanket statements like "2) These trucks are notorious for "jitter" and bounce on the freeway.", or "BE CAREFUL buying a 98 4x4" are not typical, and will not be allowed to be considered as typical traits.
I've never had the problem, but I would ensure I never would have to deal with it in the first place. I would always take it for a good test drive, even if I special order it. I would always buy the extended warranty, because like insurance, it's better to have it and not use it than to not have it and need it. Finally I would ensure that the powers that be (Ford, the dealership, etc.) would be responsible for a course of action to fix the problem.
So basically I'm saying it's A Ranger Problem, just not every Ranger's problem.