I took my 2002 Protege in for servicing today with 103,000 km
Most car manuals have more than one service schedule: the standard schedule for normal usage and the severe usage schedule. Here is what is stated in my 2002 Protege5 manual on page 8-3 of the Scheduled Maintenance section:
"Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply. If any do apply, follow Schedule 2 (Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2). • Repeated short-distance driving • Driving in dusty conditions • Driving with extended use of brakes • Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used • Driving on rough or muddy roads • Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation • Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates."
In Schedule 2 on page 8-5 footnote 2 you will find the following: "If the vehicle is operated in cold districts { below -18 degrees C (0 degrees F) }, replace the timing belt at 96,000 km (60,000 miles)."
If your case does not fit the above, then you're safe.
p.s. Check out the April 2009 issue of Consumer Reports for shady practices of some garages.
i have an 02 protege5 5spd manual, and i was wondering if there is an over drive switch for it and if so, where it's located. i can't find it, and it sucks driving on the highway. it revs to like 3500 rpms going about 70, and it's killing my gas mileage. somebody help.. thanks.
02 protege5 5spd manual ... revs to like 3500 rpms going about 70
Yes, it does seem to rev high. My 02 P5 automatic revs at about 3100 rpm at 68 mph and 3200 rpm at 74 mph. Has yours been doing this for a while or just recently?
Can anyone help i am looking to replace a burned out OD dash light on a 2000 Mazda Protege DX. There are no shifting issues or blinking of the light it looks like the bulb JUST burned out. Any help would be great
I bought a used 2000 Protoge 1.6 L about 2 months ago and it will not crank when the operating temperature gets to a normal temperature sometimes. Most of the time, it runs perfectly, gets good gas mileage, etc. But occasionally, it will not crank once the engine is warm. It acts like it is either not getting gas or it is some type of electrical problem. Once it died while I was sitting at a stop light. Everytime this occurs, if I wait 10 to 15 minutes, then it acts like it wants to crank--but will not quite crank, but if I keep trying to crank it, it will eventually crank and once it does, it runs perfect again. The engine light is on also. I took it by Pep Boys and they found these problems: camshaft position sensor and oxygen sensor:after CAT. I don't have the money to replace both of these items. What do you think is the more likely of the two to be causing my problem and how difficult would it be to replace them myself?
When you turn the key to Start, does the starter turn the engine, or not? If you suspect a fuel problem, that sounds like the starter is turning the engine (what most people consider "cranking").
Assuming it "cranks" but will not fire, cam position sensor is a good possibility since the code was there. The shop manual says to remove the sensor and inspect it for metal shavings, and remove any shavings found. Beyond that, further diagnostics take specialized tools. You could also inspect the cable coming from the sensor, looking for places where the insulation are worn through.
If you aren't willing to take it to a shop for diagnostic on the sensor, you're pretty much stuck with replacing it as a test. Unless you have a friend with the same car, that's going to cost some money.
Thanks for the reply, what I mean by, "tries to crank" is that the engine turns over but will not start (just as you guessed). How hard will it be for a novice to replace the camshaft sensor? Where is it located? I'm assumming it should be somewhere near the valve covers.
The camshaft position sensor should be right beside the oil filler cap on the valve cover. Removal/installation is fairly simple.
1. Disconnect the negative battery post 2. Disconnect the harness from the sensor ** 3. Remove the sensor bolt 4. Remove the sensor
Installation is the reverse. Torque spec for the bolt is 70 inch-pounds. It's an aluminum head, so don't over-torque or you'll strip the threads!
** There will be a tab on the connector you depress with a finger allow the harness to unplug to the sensor. Or there might be one on each side. If you buy a new sensor first, study it to see how this mechanism works. You don't want to break the harness.
I have a 2000 Mazda Protege with a 1.6L engine/ 5 speed manual transmission. It does not have a cruise control and I'm looking for an aftermarket cruise control kit. Any and all suggestions of where to get one will be greatly appreciated. I called Advanced Auto Parts and they do not sell the kits.
Just had new tires put on and oil change done.They said replaced light bulb in rear tail light.Now car started to run like crap.No power battery light comes on and off headlights out and low on engine power.
i was wondering if anyone knew why i am having issues shifting from fifth, down to fourth gear? i have a 2000 protege lx with 140k miles... thanks in advance for any ideas.
I think if it were the trans you'd have trouble shifting up and down, or you'd have grinding. Ditto the clutch. Just for kicks try pumping the clutch pedal up and down a few times and see if it goes into gear.
Okay...so you might have a pressure problem in the hydraulic clutch system. Might be time to check the hydraulic fluid level, and/or bleed the system, and look for leaks. Some hydraulic clutches also have small adjustment capabilities.
Ok, I have a question son came home said could smell gas went out and I could to smell gas. So I backed up the car and the pavement is wet with a rainbow effect on ground under car. Dose not leak when car is off but start it up and leaks bad. It is in the front of the car about middle way in from the driver side tire. :sick: What could be wrong and how much is it going to cost to fix? Anybody else have this problem? Any advice would be helpful. thanks Peanutbrittle
Clearly you have a fuel leak. Do not start the car or try to start the car under any circumstance. You could risk a fire or even an explosion. Call a tow truck and have it towed to a service garage. It probably won't be expensive to fix.
I am looking to replace the fuel pump on my 2000 mazda protege Lx. Can anyone tell me exactly where it is located on the car or how to access it? I have a feeling it may be located on the top side of the fuel tank, but I'd rather not have to drop the tank if it isn't necessary. Also, if anyone could let me know if there are typically any additional parts needed when changing a fuel pump, I'd appreciate it!
Can anyone tell me exactly where it is located on the car ... if there are typically any additional parts needed
Sounds like you might benefit from the manual ... you might check your local library for the Haynes manual for the car. There used to be an online version but unfortunately it has disappeared.
When I first start my car in the morning, there is a delayed shift from neutral to drive. If you shift, the car takes a few seconds (longer since its getting colder, or when its damp), then kicks into drive. Most times the o/d light flashes twice then goes out, or continues to flash. If you turn the car off and restart, it isn't as delayed and shifts fine. The o/d light won't flash at all when restarted or will flash twice then go out and driving is normal. It doesn't do it any more during the day (no delayed shift, and no o/d flashing) and shifts normally for high speed driving. Have 99200 miles on it and had the tran fluid changed at proper interval. Didn't start having this problem until a couple months after fluid was changed and then it wasn't every time. Now its every time, which worries me. One dealer said I may need a new trans, but it doesn't seem like that's the case. This morning was the first time that the delay was ridiculously long and almost seemed like it wasn't going to shift in to drive. Suggestions?
Have 99200 miles on it and had the tran fluid changed at proper interval. Didn't start having this problem until a couple months after fluid was changed and then it wasn't every time. Was this the first time the transmission fluid was changed?
i have a fuel leak and it seems to be coming from the top of the tank. I'm not sure if its the fuel pump but there is a lot of rust all over my car. i tried apoxy to seal what looked like the problem... didnt work. i am thinking of doing this myself if possible. any advice on my 2002 mazda protege es? how hard is it? :confuse:
Comments
Most car manuals have more than one service schedule: the standard schedule for normal usage and the severe usage schedule. Here is what is stated in my 2002 Protege5 manual on page 8-3 of the Scheduled Maintenance section:
"Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply. If any do apply, follow Schedule 2 (Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2).
• Repeated short-distance driving
• Driving in dusty conditions
• Driving with extended use of brakes
• Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used
• Driving on rough or muddy roads
• Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
• Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates."
In Schedule 2 on page 8-5 footnote 2 you will find the following:
"If the vehicle is operated in cold districts { below -18 degrees C (0 degrees F) }, replace the timing belt at 96,000 km (60,000 miles)."
If your case does not fit the above, then you're safe.
p.s. Check out the April 2009 issue of Consumer Reports for shady practices of some garages.
Yes, it does seem to rev high. My 02 P5 automatic revs at about 3100 rpm at 68 mph and 3200 rpm at 74 mph. Has yours been doing this for a while or just recently?
MNF .
Thanks in advance.
When you turn the key to Start, does the starter turn the engine, or not? If you suspect a fuel problem, that sounds like the starter is turning the engine (what most people consider "cranking").
Assuming it "cranks" but will not fire, cam position sensor is a good possibility since the code was there. The shop manual says to remove the sensor and inspect it for metal shavings, and remove any shavings found. Beyond that, further diagnostics take specialized tools. You could also inspect the cable coming from the sensor, looking for places where the insulation are worn through.
If you aren't willing to take it to a shop for diagnostic on the sensor, you're pretty much stuck with replacing it as a test. Unless you have a friend with the same car, that's going to cost some money.
I have more time than money.
Thanks again for your reply.
1. Disconnect the negative battery post
2. Disconnect the harness from the sensor **
3. Remove the sensor bolt
4. Remove the sensor
Installation is the reverse. Torque spec for the bolt is 70 inch-pounds. It's an aluminum head, so don't over-torque or you'll strip the threads!
** There will be a tab on the connector you depress with a finger allow the harness to unplug to the sensor. Or there might be one on each side. If you buy a new sensor first, study it to see how this mechanism works. You don't want to break the harness.
Good luck.
Thanks in advance.
here is direct link to Rostra cruise control where you can look up application and install manual.
thanks in advance for any ideas.
thanks again and enjoy the holidays! : )
If anyone has replaced one "do-it-yourself" style, I could use some step-by-step instructions.
Thanks.
O15
Any advice would be helpful.
thanks
Peanutbrittle
Sounds like you might benefit from the manual ... you might check your local library for the Haynes manual for the car. There used to be an online version but unfortunately it has disappeared.
Appreciated your comments
Yikes! Are there any other symptoms?
Was this the first time the transmission fluid was changed?
:confuse: