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Steve, Host
Come to think of it I will see water draining out of my passenger side framerail when I run the air conditioner so it's quite possible it does exit into the framerail.
Let me take a look tomorrow (too dark tonight) and I'll see if I can spot it using the repair manual as a reference.
I had all of the bearings (rear differential and axle) replaced for $850. They cut me a little bit of a deal since the company I work for buys Chrysler parts but not a $2000 deal!
I'd either shop around or find an independent dealer. By the way, what is your complaint that caused you to bring it in in the first place?
Look in to your front wheelwell and you will see a hose that is about 10" long or so. If you can't see a hose right behind your shock, it's possible the hose came off which would explain the water dripping into the vehicle.
The hose does NOT exit into the framerail as I posted earlier. It is outside the framerail. My vehicle is a '98 but I would think anything in the '93-'98 range would be the same.
If I pump on the gas pedal while it is shutting down, I can get it going again, but not always. The battery is fine.
Does anyone know why my car does this?
Glynis
glynisan@rogers.com :confuse:
tidester, host
This is a picture looking into the right front wheelwell. The hose sticking down behind the shock absorber is the drain hose.
Vehicle is a '98 GC Laredo.
Assuming the battery is fine, I would look at the fuel pump.
Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, you can hook up a pressure gauge in line with the fuel line to see if you have adequate pressure. Fuel pressure for a '95 should be 37 to 41 psi at idle.
On '95 and up models there is a test port on the fuel line that has a "tire valve" cap covering it. Attach the gauge to this port and record the value.
The fuel pressure regulator on '95 and '96 models is part of the fuel pump module so you will have to replace the entire fuel pump module to fix it which requires dropping the fuel tank.
tidester, host
I checked out the forums help and it basically says you have to link to a web address. I don't have the ability to do that so it looks like we're out of luck.
It shouldn't be that big of a deal. Just look in the right front wheelwell and you should see the hose a little bit behind the shock.
Sorry it took me so long to respond. I too have a lawyer and I am currently sueing D/Chrysler... it's in arbitration right now, and could be there for quite some time, but I am not going away. They (the firm) feel I have a strong case. I didnt pay for a "used vehichle," which I have had better used cars w/out all the probs than I have had with my once new JGC. I contacted the BBB, and all they do is put your complaint on file along w/sending a copy to Daimler and the dealership. If you have a lawyer, then you can not utilize the Att. Generals Office. If a law firm feels you have a valid claim RE: the lemon law in your state, they will take your case pro bono, because they are fairly certain they can win something for you. Make sure you have copies of all your invoices, original purchase agreement w/warrenty etc... they will need all of that. It is a pain, but if D/C has to finally take true responsibilty its worth it. I would love to just trade this in right now, and be done w/it, but I wont because of the priciple of the matter. I will go all the way to court if they do not settle out of court with me. And, believe me I tried to get Daimler to work with me on at least 5 different occassions prior to filing suit, this was something I was trying to avoid. I read somewhere that dateline or one of the NBC news shows looks for stories RE: bad experiences with a manufacturer. Let me know if you contact a news media source.
Paule, if you want to email the pic to me, I can try to post it for you. My email is in my Profile (click the name to get to someone's Profile).
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
The next summer I had the same symptoms, but this time while driving down the freeway. Again, the problem cleared itself up after just a few minutes. About a month later the problem happened again. Thinking it was a fuel issue, I added fuel injection cleaner and switched to a higher grade of fuel. Another month or so later, same problem.
I got in the habit of putting in the additive every 5 or 10 fill-ups and continued with mid- or premium gas (ouch!). I had no further problems and once winter hit I figured I was okay, since the problem had happened only on hot days prior. Even so, I kept up with my new fuel routine, as I didn't want to have a problem out in the boondocks some late night.
Well I was wrong about not needing to worry until summer -- the problem came back on a cool day about a month ago, and then again yesterday.
Up until yesterday I still thought I was dealing with a fuel filter or fuel injection problem. Here's the thing though: I put the car in neutral and the sputtering and choking stopped immediately. I was able to rev the engine with the rpms increasing and decreasing smoothly and steadily. When I put the car back into drive, it again (immediately) started acting like it was out of gas. Back into neutral and all was fine (except I couldn't "go") -- into drive and it sputtered. After a few blocks of limping along, it did what it normally does, and went away as mysteriously as it had come.
I can't afford to have a mechanic try the "hit-and-miss" method of repair, so I'd appreciate any input from someone who has experienced the same problem and successfully had it repaired. My take is that running the diagnostic turns up nothing, and unless the problem happens while you've got your car under the mechanic's nose, he can't really be sure he knows what it is (and sometimes even with it under his nose he's not sure).
* car acts like it's running out of gas; sputters, chokes and has almost no power
* it happens on the freeway and in regular "street" conditions
* it happens when in hot and in cold weather
* the problem is intermittent -- maybe every 1 to 3 months or so
* the problem starts out of nowhere, and with no warning
* the problem goes away after a few miles (but worries the heck out of me that I'll get hit or stranded!)
*** the problem stops as soon as the car is put into neutral, but returns immediately if put back into drive***, which to me rules out a fuel, electrical, or coil problem
THANKS, IN ADVANCE, TO ANYONE WHO CAN SOLVE THIS MYSTERY (and save me a few hundred $$ in "guess" repairs)!!!!!
:confuse:
Second, turn off the CAPS LOCK on your keyboard. People tend to ignore postings written in all CAPS.
And, third, rather than starting off with the nuke option you might consider ASKING whether anyone else has had the problem and what remedies there might be for it.
Also, please avoid posting email addresses and phone numbers as we don't have time to verify all of them.
Thanks.
tidester, host
Anyone else have the same problems with the transmission?
Also, does ayone know what it means on the VIC when all four wheels are lighted?
Is the Data Link Connector (DLC) ODB or ODBII? I want to use my palm pilot to collect the codes?
Also, I have replace the 4WD Switch but the damn message still comes up on the VIC "Services 4WD Switch" any clues?
My front differential is bad as well, and all of these posts have me now thinking about taking legal action.
What happens with the water pump in this case is the shaft seal goes out and the coolent escapes around the shaft and drips out the weep hole. Some vehicles you can actually see the hole, but IIFC you would have to get under the Jeep and maybe remove one of the splash shields to see it.
You might be able to replace it yourself or get a shop other than the dealer to repair it for less. You might want to call a parts retailer and get an idea how much the water pump is (new and rebuilt) so you will have an idea if you are getting ripped when you get quotes.
Bill
Where to I finf the drain?
Thanks
Please see message #1186. In it you will find two pictures of the drain hose on a '98 Grand Cherokee.
It's quite possible they may have made a mid year change but the drain hose for the AC on my '98 is OUTSIDE the framerail.
If I park on a hill with the nose down after driving with the a/c on it drains out the front of the frame rail at the front bumper very nicely and I don't get any drainage into the floorboard. But if I park with the nose uphill I can watch it drip into the floor. It comes in right where the evaporator case goes through the firewall. So I did what #1206 did by applying silicone around that seal two days ago and I think that fixed it - we'll see - I'll let you guys know in a few days. If anyone has anymore suggestions please post real soon!
Any luck in getting yours fixed?
Mea culpa.
By the way, I have not experienced this problem on my '98. Guess I'm apparently one of the lucky ones.
How are you? I am sorry to hear that you have this problem too. I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee with the F package as well and I have a lot of visibility issues. Overall, I love it though. I want to suggest a couple of other vehicle options for you. The three best SUV's on the market at the moment are the Toyota 4runner, the Nissan Pathfinder and the Nissan Xtera. In all honesty if you want the best SUV on the market go with the Pathfinder. Good luck, JP
I take with pleasure every possibility.