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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    The manual says to get in for service as it may not deploy if needed. The dealership wants $80 to look at it. It is no longer under warranty.

    Does anyone have experience on what might cause this?
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    There are several things which could cause the SRS to throw a fault code. You really need to have a shop with the proper diagnostic equipment to interrogate the SRS. Having said that, the most common SRS problems tend to be things such as the seat occupant or seat belt latch sensors. The thing is, you can't know for sure. You should be able to find a good independent shop that will read the fault codes for much less than $80.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    Have 2001 V8 GC Ltd w/ Quadra Drive. Had same noise. Dealer changed pinion gears in differentials. Noise didn't go completely but is now very low.

    I'm told this is a characteristic of the Dana axle.

    Your dealer is BSing you that he doesn't know about the problem.
  • noobnoob Posts: 11
    Thanks for help. I thought so too. They just are BSing. I was looking at this site, , and I think I know now what I should do. I will print it out and bring it to the dealer and ask them nicely to fix it. If it is the characteristics of dana axle, everyone has the same problem?
  • setfreesetfree Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cyl, 2-wheel drive, about 110,000 miles. Failed California state smog test. Brought it to my mechanic about 6 times; he can't find the problem; keeps failing. Tried changing oxygen sensor and put new catalytic converter in. Cleaned carbon off pistons. Still fails. Dealer says it needs all this stuff, but they're not saying exactly what it is. I'm trying fuel additive (Techron by Chevron)and driving for a week to see if that'll work. Any suggestions?
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    I have been on this Edmunds site a lot lately using it for extensive research as we (mostly for the wife) just bought a new Chrysler 300M on their model change discounted rebate deal (more roomy and posh than Bonneville,Galant,Accord,Passats).
    We have owned 2 Caravans from way back in the 80s and generally pretty happy with DC products.
    The 2001 Jeep has the I-6 and Selectrac: based on recommendations from 2 work friends and one of the dealer salesmen (not ours) who drove 90s vintage Jeeps well over 200K miles with minimal problems. We have a loaded package with leather, HO Stereo, etc but stuck with the 6 and no sunroof (300M is only car with sunroof I have fit in at 6'4).
    Anyway the first year of driving was perfect, no problems. Year #2 we had the seat heaters go. Year #3 seat heaters went again, then the infamous brake problems (full replacement with TSB/warranty). What caused me to buy the ext warranty was an oil leak on main seal: I know engine basics but not sure what it was other than it took 2 days to fix it under warranty. Of course now that we bought the $700 full 6/75K warr only had 1 minor problem in almost a year (which is good news but maybe should have saved the money to buy tires). We really do like the vehicle and hopefully it will treat me as nice in years 4-10 as my work friend's Jeeps did.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,024
    A newspaper reporter seeks to interview current and former Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee owners. Please send your daytime contact info and the model year of your vehicle to by Wednesday, March 31, 2004.
    Jeannine Fallon
    PR Director


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • mjday1972mjday1972 Posts: 76
    Can anyone recommend some aftermarket rotors for a '99 Grand Cherokee Laredo? I'm on my 3rd set and they need to be replaced (current set were replaced under the TSB about a year and a half ago). If I'm going to sink more money into those brakes, I want to try something that may work.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Not a JGC owner...but posts on some of these boards point to the calipers being the problem not the rotors. The calipers are causing the rotors to burn out too quickly. Maybe search on this board and possible others re: calipers.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    I don't have the exact info with me at work, but I got aftermarket rotors at AutoZone for my '00 JGCL 2/wd 4.0 L after the 5* dealer would not work we me on replacing warped rotors at 15,000 miles. (I had doc on the 2 sets of warped rotors on the '99 JGCL - 5,000 & 21,000 miles.)

    The aftermarket ones from Autozone are doing good at 63,000 (48,000 on the rotors). They listed for about $100 for the pair..they came with a 24,000 mile warranty.

    The only time these warped was when the caliper did not release, dragging and heated up the pads and rotors, real hots. BUT after they cooled down and I lubed the caliper pins the rotors are good warp wobble, unlike the DC rotors that take on a permanent warp. At least from my experience, you do not have to spend big bucks on special slotted rotors to get decent ones, just get away from the DC factory rotors.

  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    for my '99 Laredo. The problem as they told me is the calipers that do not release from the rotors. This causes heat buildup and the rotors warp. That is why the problem reoccurs when just replacing the rotors.

    I believe this TSB (referring to calipers) was AFTER the original one for rotors. If you use the search function on this board, you can find the TSB number and description referring to this.

    Because I'd had a previous occurence of warped rotors at around 18K, at around 28k my 5* dealer replaced my calipers, and rotors for a $50 copay even though I was past the 36 mos warranty period.
  • mjday1972mjday1972 Posts: 76
    Thanks all for the information, I will follow up on the calipers.

  • mjday1972mjday1972 Posts: 76
    I wasn't able to find the TSB number for the calipers, but I had my rotors replaced under the rotor TSB about a year ago (dealer covered it even though I was outside of the warranty period). But since I've been thinking about this, I thought I'd throw out more information regarding this problem. I experience significant shaking in the steering wheel while applying the brakes at high speeds, experienced mostly while slowing down from highway speeds. However, the problem is intermittent, so I don't feel it all the time. Sometimes, if I take my foot off the brakes and re-apply them the problem goes away. This is primarily my wife's car and she is not an aggressive driver. This vehicle has about 49K miles on the clock and is in great working condition otherwise. The intermittent nature of the wheel shaking leads me to believe that there might be something else wrong with the brakes besides the rotors. Some of the posts regarding calipers also got me thinking as well. I am planning on taking it in for service, but I want to be able to have an educated conversation with the service advisor. Any further help or guidance would be appreciated.

  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    Also, the shaking you describe is EXACTLY what I experienced when my rotors warped. For the record, I am female, and probably drive the same way your wife does.

    Have the rotors checked out now. Brake warranty is 12,000 miles. There is also a TSB for JGC built before May, 2002:

    Date: 5/13/02

    Bulletin # 0500302 (supercedes 0500501 Dated Sep 14, 2001)

    Model Year(s): 1999-2002 (models built May 11, 2002 and prior)

    Description: Brake roughness or pedal pulsation when the brakes are applied. The customer may experience a vibration of the steering wheel, floor, seat, instrument panel, or a minor pedal pulsation (brake roughness) under light to moderate pedal application. The condition may be caused by excessive thickness variation of the brake rotor surface.

    Details: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies.

    Parts required:
    52098672 Rotor
    05093174AA Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts)

  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Posts: 55
    Had a 2001 JGC and now have a 2004. Never a problem with either one. The 2001 had 70K when I sold it to my brother! These cars get a bad rap for some reason and I think its due to owner's being unreasonable. If you want to see brake problems, try a Taurus. My 2000 Taurus had 4 complete brake jobs in 60K miles. My 2002 Intrepid just got front brakes after 67K miles. Rears were perfect and still going strong. My son has 34K on his 2001 caravan, no problems!
  • So I have to add my girlfriends 2003(2004?) GC bought in July of 2003 just came out of the shop due to warped rotors. Less than 7000 miles. It's a lease so they fixed the problem for free. Should we expect this to continue to happen through the life of the lease? It seems like a very common problem with the GC (at least from people I've asked and this board). I've owned fords my whole life and never had this problem. Sure I've replaced pads but never had a warped rotor.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Posts: 55
    There is a one year 12K mile warranty on all brake items. At 7K miles they would cover it under factory warranty. Lease has no effect on this problem.
  • jamiejamie Posts: 1
  • I have a 99 GCLaredo with a major electrical problem. All my dashboard lights come on, no power window, no info center, no AC, no CD player, radio works but volume drops, no dome lights, list keeps going. Now my battery is dead and just got replaced, don't know if this was due to car problem. I've been to 2 "5 Star Dealership" Serv. Dept. and still the problem continues. I've had the ICM replaced twice and the BCM replaced 4 times and the service foreman has been talking with the Chrysler-Daimler Tech's. This problem started in Feb. 3,2004, and now it's almost 3 months later and I'm no where near a fix on this problem! Is your son's GC doing any of these problems? Maybe his has something to do with the ICM or BCM. Is is still under warranty? I have the extended warranty luckily, because each of these parts are around $1000.00 each, and that's without labor!
  • kps0311kps0311 Posts: 6
    I own a first-generation Jeep GC (1994 Laredo with 6 cyl. and Selec-Trac). The vehicle has become a bit of a “money pit” over the last 18 months (95K – 100K mi.). During this period, the water pump, radiator, radio/CD player and fuel pump have been replaced, and the automatic transmission has been rebuilt. The A/C is not working due to a Freon leak somewhere in the system (could not be located at the last servicing). Otherwise, the vehicle is now running fine. My question to owners of similar vintage vehicles is: what other big-ticket failures are “looming on the horizon?” Should I be anticipating another major (expensive) failure? I hope that I’m not inviting disaster just by asking the question. The bottom line is: should I be considering replacing this vehicle now (@ 101K mi.), or try to run it for another year or two to recover some of my recent repair costs? I would appreciate any insight or owner opinions on this subject. Thanks in advance.
  • wulf007wulf007 Posts: 20
    I have a 1993 JGC Limited, Inline 6, Selec -Trak, 4X4 with 250,000 miles. I keep thinking about replacing it but it just keeps going and going. Other than the usual brakes, tires, battery, light bulbs and floor mats, I have replaced the radio/cd, fuel pump, starter, and the manifold (pin hole leak at the y). I also replaced the catalytic converter but as it turns out it probably wasn't necessary because the problem was the manifold leak. I have no oil or transmission leaks and it passes the California smog emissions test every other year with no problem. My biggest expense in the last 50k-75k miles (knock on wood) was replacing the remote entry device (ex-wife took it)$120. Honestly my BMW cost more to maintain and service than the Jeep has cost to repair/replace, maintain and service and it is only a couple of years old. I have the oil changed every 3000 miles and the transmission/transfer case serviced annually. I have a place in Tahoe so I have been up to the hubs in snow many times. Don't do too much towing with it though. I know I have been fortunate, but it really does seem to just keep going and going.
  • madowner2madowner2 Posts: 2
    Well, after posting message #796, my car has gone from bad to worse. It is now in the shop for 5 weeks this time, 5 BCM's, 3 or 4 ICM's, 2 battery's, rear latch all replaced, my 5* dealer is stumped and is calling in the Chrysler-Daimler Head Tech's from the training facility in Ontario, CA. The car has gotten worse every time they replace something. I feel that I am the only owner who has had this happen to. Has anyone else experienced this type of problem?
    I have a 99 GC Laredo with 43K, not too much mileage. I'm at a loss of what to do. I've made claims with Chrysler Corp, not that it does any good. My husband also has a jeep, but after this experience, we will never own one again!
  • sylvia42sylvia42 Posts: 2
    Hello all --Newbie here, and I need some info/advice.

    I found a 1995 JGC today - I6 4wd 130K mis. Pretty sweet. In fact, its condition was soooo pristine that I was sure it was reconditioned salvage vehicle -- carpet new; seat covers new (and a little loose). Air freshner smell. Paint *looked* flawless.

    Well I ran a carfax check, and lo and behold -- the car was locally owned. But there were no accident reports on the title history -- no flood title, nothing.

    Can used car dealers somehow clear or conceal a car's title history? Also -- there are 7 "histories" on the VIN number, but carfax states there was only one owner. Doesn't the title number change if the owner sells/trades the vehicle? And if not -- then how can a carfax user determine what these "histories" mean?

    thanks in advance!
  • mikecmikec Posts: 40
    Hello all. I have founds Edmunds to be a great source of advice for my past and current vehicles, so this is no one is no exception.

    Have a 2004 JGC Laredo, 4x4, 12K miles. Seems to be working fine.

    Anything I should watch out for or check? TSBs, etc.

    No issues of yet...had a loud pop when turning steering wheel and backing up, but it never repeated; might have been a can on the ground.
    Also, transmission seems to shift roughly under hard acceleration, but I think this is normal for the Jeep; this is my first, so I don't have a reference, but I assume it's not as silky as a Honda/Toyota/etc.

    Thanks in advance.
  • terryb3terryb3 Posts: 2
    Hi Mikec

    I've got a 2001 JGC Ltd 3.1 turbo diesel (diesel's big here in Europe). I can't really give you any tips but I'm comforted to hear your comment on the rough gearshift being normal. I too get this - especially when towing or accelerating hard. The dealership says there's nothing wrong so I'm putting it down to normal behaviour.

    The one thing it could be is shortage of ATF - mine seems to get through a fair amount and although the dipstick shows there's plenty there, a top-up to just overfull seems to help. Also the change to ATF+4 helped. Worth checking though.

    There's no sign of a leak, I guess it gets hot when I tow (a 1.5 tonne trailer home at speeds of up to 60 mph)and evaporates?

    One thing I'm not sure of is whether I can use any other brand than the Mopar ATF+4 - does anyone know if there's anything compatible (the problem being that in the UK Mopar dealers are few and far between).

    You can check for tsbs on

  • paulbpaulb Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with 3,000 miles. The check engine light continues to come on with a code of P-0456.It has been to the dealership 8 times and they can find nothing wrong. They turn the light off but can not find the reason it comes on. I am about to go through the NJ lemon law procedure. The Chrysler engineers say it is due to an altitude change soon after a cold engine start up. At present there is no fix. Any ideas out there?
  • taz9838taz9838 Posts: 2
    My overhead console went blank on my 1993 jeep Gran cherokee. I even press the 2 buttons and the display comes on then goes blank. The same time that this started the rear view mirror fell off the front window.
  • taz9838taz9838 Posts: 2
    The windshield washer on my 2000 saturn stopped working. I can hear the motor running and I checked the line with a air hose. Everything seams clear.
  • that is what happened to my vehicle recently. I only have 59400 miles on it and it developed a leak....seems too soon for this kind of thing what do you think? Dealership had to replace the water pump to stop the leak. Cost $400.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    Well, the reason it was leaking was the water pump was going out. In about Dec 2003 our '00 JGCL started giving 'coolant low'. So I added coolant even though it did not seem very low. Next day wife sayes, it reported 'coolant low' again. Checked and this time was leaking from the front of the engine. The water pump has a weep hole so that when the seal on the shaft goes, the leaking coolant come out that hole in the front center part of the engine. Took it to the dealer the next day and for the $50 deductible on my DC Maxcare warranty, they replaced the water pump. The mileage was between 55,000 & 60,000.

    From our very small sample size, I would say the estimated life of the water pumps is less that 60,000.... I bet we have some folks out there with 120,000 + miles on the original WP.

    This is one reason we got rid of the Jeep...48 month, 75,000 mile extended warranty would run out about July 9, 2004...not willing to be exposed to possible repairs.. Had a number of things covered under warranty, so I did not trust it to be mininal maintenance during it's high mileage years.

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