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Known problem areas are brake rotors/calipers as well as transmissions.
I would suggest having a good mechanic look at it before you purchase a '99 GC.
And what do you all think about 1998/99 Jeep Cherokee Sports? I have heard that they are pretty reliable, but the ones I'm looking at have about 100,000 mi. on them. Anything to watch out for?
Thanks again for your help.
My wife has similar issues with her '00 GC. What is the deal with the electrical systems in these things? Does anyone recognize these symptoms? I'm kinda stuck here just replacing stuff until it gets better.
Thanks
I have a 1999 JGC 4.7 V8 that Shuts off while driving after reaching operating temperature.
My Crank Position Sensor failed hard about 3 months ago and actually gave me an error code! I replaced it with a $50 one from the dealer and it ran flawless for 3 months before the intermittent stalls began, I suspect it has something to do with the hotter summer weather.
To troubleshoot it, I assumed that the one from the dealer might be temperature sensitive and replaced it again with another one from the dealership, it didn't fix the problem. I've ordered yet another one from an on-line store assuming that the dealership has got a bad batch of temperature sensitive Crank Sensors. Would Chrysler really do that in order to sell more PCM's? Builds lots of Good Will for when I go shopping for my next car!
I've got 2 different ideas on how Crank Position Sensors fail;
1) They are usually all or nothing, eg, not intermittent.
2) The Crank Position Sensor is a common problem with all Jeeps and that over time they become temperature sensitive. They need electricity to work and as such, they self heat and can go into thermal runaway which causes both spark and fuel systems to go crazy. Let the vehicle cool off for 20-30 minutes after which it runs like a champ until it heats up again. They're $50 from the dealership and $20 on the internet.
My engine is running smoothly and then it's as if the ignition switch were just turned off. Pulling off the road and sometimes it fires back up immediately and other times I have to wait sometimes five minutes and other times 30 minutes for cooling. It will then restart and run flawlessly for another 5 miles and then do it again.
Dealers have a difficult time working with this sort of problem as is intermittent. My dealer says that they have never heard of this problem so I won't be taking it to them!
When my engine stalls, the gauges on the instrument panel don't seem to have any power;
1. The Volt Meter reads zero volts. It returns to normal or about 12 volts after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
2. The Temperature Gauge reads zero. It was running at the normal 200 - 210 degrees before it stalled and returns to about 180 after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
3. The Fuel Gage reads zero. It was 3/4 full before the stall and returns to 3/4 after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
4. The Fuel Pump doesn't run for the 1 second prime cycle when the key is turned to the RUN position. Bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay by jumpering connections (30 to 87) causes the Fuel Pump to run continuously. It continues to crank but it won't run.
I believe that this is a PCM controlled shutdown of the Ignition System due to a dangerous condition, e.g., missing signal from a heat sensitive Crank Position Sensor.
I have tested and replaced the following things in an attempt to fix the temperature related stalling problem. None of them has fixed the problem.
1. Fuel pump/delivery (I have replaced the fuel pump),
2. Replaced the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) 3 months ago and fixed a previous no-start problem.
3. Replaced the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) again thinking I got a flakey one from the dealership.
4. Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor.
5. I've read that the O2 Sensors should measure to 5 - 7 ohms between the two white wires. Mine measure 14 Ohms between the two black wires.
6. I have a K'nN Air filter. Another poster stated that the oil used in these filters can contaminate the MAP sensor. I removed and cleaned the MAP sensor.
7. Removed and measured the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) throughout the entire range of movement with both a digital and an analog ohm meter. Measured smooth from 5,000 ohms down to 500.
8. Removed and cleaned the IAS (Idle Air Motor).
9. Measured the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor at 1600 ohms.
10. Measured the Intake Air Temperature sensor at 3000 ohms.
11. Removed and cleaned numerous grounds from the PCM to the engine block,
12. I don't hear any gush of air when removing the Gas Cap, but neither does any of my other cars, so I don't think this could be a faulty gas cap.
13. Coils? My 99 JGC is equipped with "Coil over Spark Plug" technology, e.g., 8 little high voltage ignition coils build into the individual spark plug caps. I doubt that all 8 are failing at once. Another post states that changing out the plugs every 3 months seems to help but believes that's just masking some other problem.
Since last year, I have had two things done concerning the oxygen sensor, spark plugs replaced three times, wiring around the spark plugs replaced, something flushed and reprogrammed, and today he told me they were ordering a coil pack. Can someone please tell me if they have had these problems and what I can do next if the coil pack doesn’t work? The service guy told me that if this doesn’t work, he will take my jeep out back and torch it! Please Help! Also, I am experiencing wind noise on the driver’s side and the doors won’t automatically lock when I reach a certain speed anymore, what can this be? I’ve had the rotor problems like everyone else too, now I just want my jeep fixed. Should I just give up? -Kacey
tidester, host
The '98-'99 Cherokees are probably pretty darn good especially with the 4.0 L engine.
I don't really care for the styling of the Cherokees in contrast to the Grand Cherokees but I think they're fairly reliable with some small issues.
Anything up around 100k is probably worth taking to a mechanic to pay him $50 or so to check it out before putting your hard earned money on it.
If that is the case, I'd check shocks to start with and other suspension components from that point on.
On July 20th, the fan blower (for climate control inside vehicle) would not work on settings 1, 2, and 3. Only on 4. This tends to interfere with conversations, and is downright annoying.
Took to dealership on same day. Technician discovered that the blower motor was drawing too many amps through the relay, and melted it. I am told that they have to order (1) A new blower motor (2) A new relay (3) A new resistor, and (4) a NEW WIRING HARNESS.
Adding insult to injury is that when the parts come in, it will take 1-3 days to fix. Jeep does not provide a rental for you. So, my $30,000 SUV will be disabled soon, and I am out of money for a rental.
I have filed a complaint with Daimler/Chrysler and have filed a safety complaint with NHTSA.gov. If this happened on the road, what else with the electrical system could have melted?
Beware. This could get worse for you.
Fast forward to first week in July in Nebraska. Temperatures in the low to mid 90s. Humid as hell. In a trip in town, the A/C turns from cold to warm. Checked to see if the A/C was accidentally bumped off. Nope. Took to dealer. Technician tells us that this is a big problem with 05 JGCs, and that the part will arrive in 7-10 days because there is so much demand for it. Great.
10 BUSINESS days later (during which, the outdoor temp was consistently 95+ degrees) it was fixed. Two days after getting it back, turned on car (hottest day of the year thus far 101 degrees) and no air coming out. Nothing. Turned the fan blower speed to 2....nothing....3.....nothing....4 YES! It was cold air, however, it would only work if the fan was set at 4 (maximum). Same with the vent.
Took it back to local dealership shop. They think it may be a quick fix. After sitting there for 2 hours, the techhnician asks me to follow him to the shop. As I get up, I notice that he has a melted piece of electronics in his hand. Here is what happened:
Accorsing to the tech, the blower motor was drawing too many amps through the relay and resistor. This fouled out the relay, and melted it. It also destroyed the resistor, the blower motor and THE WIRING HARNESS.
So...they have to replace the wiring harness, blower motor, relay, and resistor.
I am glad that this did not occur on a trip. If they have to replace all this stuff, what else would have been melted/fried if I had not detected it in town?
Best of all, when they fix this problem it may take 1-3 days. JEEP DOES NOT PROVIDE A RENTAL CAR FOR YOU. I have a 2004 Mazda 3s; when it went in for an issue, I had a rental car. The Mazda is $18,000. This Jeep is $30,000, and I don't get a rental car for their design flaw?
I filed a complaint with Daimler-Chrysler, Chrysler Financial (get me out of this lease NOW) and the NHTSA for a safety complaint. We had a 2003 Liberty Sport that was turned in for this 2005 JGC hunk. The 03 Sport was a great vehicle. I really regret turning it in.
By the way, the transmission stutter occurs occasionally still. Gave up on it. They have it on file with the first tech check. If the tranny blows, it's not my problem.
In conclusion, I am trying to have Daimler-Chrysler take back my '05 JGC, and terminate my lease. I know that I will get a lot of resistance, but I think that it is time for consumers to stand up, and let D-C know that when one has a $30,000 2005 JGC with 5700 miles on it, one should be outraged, and should have an opportunity to return their hunk back to them. What are they afraid of? That they will sell/lease it to another customer who will be angry in the near future?
It they are afraid to take back their vehicle, then the consumer should be afraid to buy/lease one.
Tried to go with an American/German car. Will stick to Japanese in the future.
Sorry this is so long, but if you have a similar story, I would like to know. At least I will know that I am not the only one out there.
All cars have problems. The fact that you got a rental with your Mazda and not with the Jeep has to do with the dealership; not the manufacturer.
As a result of your posting, tomorrow I have on my docket to replace both the crank and cam position sensors, assuming I am able to get them. Dallas heat is sometimes unbearable, but it is still the closest you can get to heaven without being in Colorado. So assuming that 100 degrees is not going to hamper my success, I'll be running before lunch. However, if you are able to extend any other suggestions regarding this problem, I would be more than grateful!
Jeep engineers told the dealership to flush the transmission three times to fix the problem. When this did not work, engineers instructed the dealership to replace the torque converter. However, this is on backorder indefinitely. Besides that, we spoke to a transmission manufacturing company and were advised that the entire transmission may have been compromised, could give us problems later, and that the entire thing should be rebuilt or replaced. However, Jeep will only do this if, after the torque converter has been replaced, they are satisfied that the problem remains.
So we are driving a rental while our brand new Jeep sits in a dealership parking lot. Who knows how long this process will take. Since this problem is a manufacturing defect, Jeep should replace the vehicle. Instead we are paying for an SUV that was faulty from day one and stuck waiting. Nice first-time new car experience.
In the meantime neither Jeep Customer Service, nor our local dealership will give us our Jeep district manager's name. We have been totally stonewalled.
If I could do it again, I would not have purchased the new, redesigned Jeep until they got it right. Our next vehicle will be anything besides a Chrysler.
I appreciate any assistance you may provide. I recently purchased the above vehicle and have been very content with it. However, recently I have noticed a squeaky noise when I hit a slight bump, emanating from the rear right quadrant of the car. It seems like it is around the right wheel. IN other words, as the car bounces, it squeaks with the bounce....a lot like jumping up and down on a bed. We brought it to the dealer (under warranty) and they lubed it, but the problem remains. Any suggestions or ideas about what might be wrong?
Thanks for your help!
Yes, it's a bummer to have a problem on a new vehicle but you have to be reasonable. I can't believe you expect the dealer to give you your district manager's name.
I'm sure you'll be one of those customers who jump from manufacturer to manufacturer until you find the perfect car. Good luck.
Crankshaft position sensor (which I had replaced 25K ago) - $447
Ignition coil (supposedly corroded) - $186
Serpentine Belt (also replaced 25K ago), Water Pump, and Thermostat - $802
Throttle Body - $140
Spark Plugs, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Wires - $364
Injectors - $150
Shocks (starting to leak) - $408
Steering Dampenor (starting to fail) - $206
Powersteering Flush recommended - $160
Total ~ $2865
Ouch--that's half the value of my car, so it's a bit hard to swallow. Does anyone have any advice for me? The previous jeep dealer I brought my car to only charged me $193 to replace the Crankshaft position sensor, which is one reason I think they're trying to rip me off. Should I try a local mechanic for the work? Sorry if this isn't the right place for these questions. Thanks for any help!
Have you had an alignment done recently? My guess is it could be either an alignment or you lost a weight on one of your wheels that is causing the vibration in that particular speed range.
I would definitely get a second opinion from an independent mechanic before throwing money at it.
The one comment I would make is to have your shocks replaced if they are starting to leak to prevent also having to replace tires.
The research I've done on this is that 1) the unit needs cleaned as the laser is not reading the discs, or 2) the motor or drive that changes the discs in and out is the problem, possibly due to miss aligned gears. I've not tried anything yet.
Here's the latest: I drove it today for about 30 minutes without the a/c and it drove fine. It didn't do the idling thing or stall at all. The belt still screetched a little but not near as bad. Now I suspect an a/c related problem. Still scratching my head over this one.
I'd try an independent A/C shop to see what they say.