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2. rough idle, clean throttle body,injectors,spark plugs,
3. Steering box, was ok then went bad, sounds like something is causing it to go bad, bad front end component binding possibly.
Wheel hop, change the shocks to gas.
Wheel hop, change the shocks to gas.Remembere Jeeps hop this is due to the solid front axle but it should not feel like it is out of control.
becomingso complicated that every little thing is hundred's..My warranty cost me $2200.00.. In the 3 years I have owned the Jeep I would have gotten rid of it because it would have been too expensive to repair.
My 01 v8 has Jeep shocks..it rides fairly smooth.
If I'm correct, it doesn't really have any impact on the actual pressure, it's just the device that sends the signal to your instrument panel. Thus the drop and the alarm.
I don't believe you said what engine you have, but I have a 96 in-line 6 cylinder 4.0 and the unit is very easily accessible on the passenger side of the engine. You simple unclip the cable, remove it by unscrewing it, replace, re-clip and your finished.
I believe the part is about $60 and most places have a minimum fee of hour service. So that little nugget could save you about $90.
Hope that helps someone.
First, and foremost, there was a lot of confusion as to what the WOD is. Some people confused this with a slight shake that you could accelerate through, thinking that it was something like out of balance tires. This is absolutely not the WOD. You can not accelerate through the WOD. The WOD is so violent that you literally think that they front end of your car is about to break off and you're going to be standing on the side of the road looking at your car broke into two pieces. So if you have a little annoying shake in your front end... you absolutely are not experiencing the WOD. If you have had to stop at the next rest area or return home for a change of clothes (and a shower), you've probably experienced the WOD.
SO... many people claimed that the cause was several different issues, and of course the problem is that they were probably all correct for their specific circumstance. However, let me tell you what I found.
I decided to bring mine to a local mechanic who is very honest and does great work. He told me prior to the job that it would be the Trac bar, however after reading all the horror stories on here, I decided that I would replace the steering dampener (I think that's what it's called; shock absorber attached to the steering) also.
When I went to pick the vehicle up I asked if there was anything obvious that looked bad. That's when he showed me the old trac bar. There is a what I refer to as a "ball and socket" joint on one end (that's a medical term, not sure what the auto term would be) and that joint was obviously bad and the entire cause of the issue. Whatever was originally holding the ball in place inside the socket was now gone and it was just kind of free floating inside with lots of room for movement that shouldn't have been there.
Again, I'm not a mechanic and I know I didn't do as good of a job of explaining this as I would've liked to, but I just wanted to let those of you who have had/will have this problem that this was the fix.
To replace the trac bar was about $200 w/labor and adding in the steering dampener brought it up to $300. So not bad.
I felt the difference in the front end immediately leaving and haven't had even the slightest sign of the WOD since.
Hope that helps.
I have a 2003 JGC 2.7 diesel, For some reason both brake lights have stopped working, i have checked fuse which is okay, Can any one help ? Only thing i can think of i spent 3 hrs in a motorway hold up yesterday and was on and off brakes constantly ( 3 miles in 2 hrs ) could something have burnt out ?
Regards Ellach
they have a habit of going bad
THANKS ON ANY HELP.
The first is that my dashboard lights have been dimming in and out for pretty much the last three years. At night, the dashboard lights dim almost completely out then come back, then dim again. My battery is no more than a year old, and I tried replacing the fuse with a new one, but that didn’t help.
The second problem is that the car will periodically not turn over when I turn the ignition key. Sometimes I turn the key and the engine will try to engage but it won’t turn over. If I persist, sometimes the electricity ‘goes out’ and I’ll get only clicking sounds, other times I get nothing at all. Strange thing is if I wait 10-15 minutes and try again, the engine will turn over (sometimes it takes a few seconds, other times it's immediate), although I often have to reset my digital clock and other digital settings.
My knowledge of auto maintenance is lacking, so whatever advice or suggestions anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
It's worse in the winter too.
The first place to start is to check the fluid it should be clean (pinkish to red in color) no debris and no burnt smell, If it smells burnt you should have the transmission pan removed and inspected for foreign material and debris, if debris or foreign material is found in the pan the transmission will need repair (internal), since you have no codes hopefully this will not be the case
Next is to check the kick down linkage at the transmission to be sure that it is free moving and does not bind or hang up ( the ball and socket do rust and the shaft into the valve body may also rust) after the check, the cable will need to be checked for free movement also and then be properly adjusted, if not found to be binding.
If both of the above are good, the transmission may need to be overhauled, what happens to these transmissions over time is that the seals inside of the transmission harden up over time and hang up the clutch piston in its bore causing a delayed and hard shift, this is normally made worse in the cold and gets better as the whether warms up, or may seem slightly better as the jeep reaches operating temp,another tell tale that this may be what is starting to happen is when it starts to hang up and not shift ease off the gas and see if it shifts, this allows governor pressure to overcome the hanging seal and make the shift, (I drove my truck like this for two years, you have already discovered this), but eventually the seal will fail completely and you will loose second and/or third gear
Do you know where can I get info on how to replace that selenoid, I have the HAYNES book and doesn't have anything about it, remember I have 4.0L
Thanks
What engine does the 97 have in it? Either way, 221k miles are a lot of miles, but the inline 6-cylinder engines are suppose to last longer than the V8's just by the basic design of the engine (less friction). But I'm sure you'll get responses saying that's wrong too. I'm not saying it's right, just that is the common belief.
I would bring the vehicle to a mechanic and have them check it over. They can check to see if it's given off any codes, as well as do some pretty simple stuff like a compression check of the engine. Shouldn't cost too much and could be saving you $2700 if the Jeep is a lemon.
Has anyone else had this issue? Can you steer me in the right direction for cleaning some contacts or something?
On the seat, best bet would be to get one complete with track from a wrecking yard
Good Luck
S Swann--Odessa, tx
Thank you.
Next, examine the wiring local to the sensor. The electrical connection must be CLEAN and it must be TIGHT because you are bouncing all over the place.
Of course, the dealer will make it clean and tight when he installs a new sensor you may not need.
If not, you may have an issue with the Body Control Module. Find out if there are any firmware upgrades.
Another possibility is the wiring harnesses. The BCM probably has at least 50 wires. If all else fails, try disconnecting each harness and plugging it back in. But they are hard to get to. Be careful. You will have to find out how the connector is locked into place so you can remove it. Otherwise you might break it like I did.