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ours started with the lurch at stop lights etc. we also were told it was our air conditioner! the problem continued to get worse. it proceeded to a roaring when we were about 65mph, and the transmission started slipping then slamming into gear.
we had to have to the transmission replaced in the first one. when the same problem started to happen on the second sequoia, we took it to freeman toyota in hurst, tx. the service manager knew exactly what it was. i cannot remember the part, but they replaced ours and we have been fine since.
good luck!
THX ........ Harbo slvrfx@cox.net
I decided to spray the catch in the tailgate and bumper with some lithium grease.
This solved the latch problem immediately.
Maybe this simple fix will solve some other people's problems.
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
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Rear door handle broke and I bought the part and replaced it myself....the handle was highway robbery at $90. Door worked fine for about half a day but now it won't open and I don't think its the handle.
It almost seems like the rear door is stuck in the "locked" position because you don't hear it unlock when you unlock the rest of the doors.
So, does anyone have any experience removing that housing that the latch itself (and obviously the locking mechanism) is in? I can't for the life of me figure out how to open it up and see if the cable has just come loose from there.
When replacing the handle I did do some tugging on the cable so I could get the door open and work on it that way instead of all cramped up inside the car but now it appears I am stuck doing that because I can't get the door open at all. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated but I don't want to take to the dealer unless I absolutely have to.
Thanks.
Have fun ....... <(-;
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
I have read the links on this subject, Thanks for the info! When my latch finally broke, I was able to swap it out myself minus $71 for the latch. I got it in and it worked until I locked it and it would not re-open. It seemed that the power lock was not activating. I was concerned that I would not be able to open the door since the cable pull will not work while the door was locked.
Back into the the door a second time. I was finally able to locate a lose connection on the black exterior panel which seems to be a termination point for the harness.
I was then able to lock and unlock the door with no problems. I must of done it 20 times to make sure it worked.
later that day, we made a trip to Home Depot to get a lawn mower and when I got to the latch, it was not working. Arrrghhh. I can hear the power lock activating, but the door will still not open. Now I am really worried that I might not be able to get the door opened with removing the latch itself.
I am planning on re-entering the car this weekend and clean all the contact points and perhaps using tie wraps to make them tight. I am hoping that they got loose due to the drive.
Is this just due to wiring contacts, or am I missing something? Could the rear lock be in a different mode? Is it the latch itself?
Any advice would be appreciated....
Thanks
tfultz3
I was the one who brought this question up a few weeks ago and I made the following discovery.
The problem was not with my locking mechanism. The problem was that somehow, the cable was applying enough pressure to the locking mechanism that it was acting similarly to when you try and unlock a door while someone is pulling on the handle...the lock stays engaged. As soon as I disconnected the cable from the handle, the door unlocked and I was able to open it.
However, the only solution I came up with was to get some pliers and bend the notch where the cable hooks into the handle lever so as to shorten the distance the cable had to stretch to make the connection and take some of the tension out of the cable. Mine works perfectly now. Good luck.
I would have thought that a 2005 sequoia would still be under warranty or only slightly out of warranty. I can't imagine that the rear hatch struts would have both failed and Toyota isn't covering them, certainly if they are "in warranty" and they should be covered if they're only slightly out of warranty since they didn't just fail at the same time yesterday. Am I missing something?
Thank you for any help on this.
jgremillion
You saved us $$$$$$$ for GAS!
Please Post your outcome ..... I'm curious. I have 105K on my 2WD Sequoia, so far bullet-proof.
THX /........
Are we supposed to lubricate the windows somehow? Never ever had this problem before and seems a little strange for such a new vehicle to be doing this.
Any ideas?
Anyway does anyone have any advice about "dealing" with the dealership and this "unknown problem". Also I have now read most of this forum and why doesn't Toyota recall this?
I have also had the VSC light come on intermittently. The manual does say to take it immediately to the dealer. I have received two other bits of advice. First being, to make certain to replace gas lid tightly (several "clicks") after refueling. Secondly, that the sensor may have an "error" reading when it gets dirty. The light has gone off for me when I've used either/both bits of advice but I remain cautious particularly after reading some of the posts on this website.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Also is it possible to get a replacement cover or housing for the keyless entry remote without buying the electronic unit inside? Mine are broken where the keyring goes through, but are working perfectly. I asked at the dealers and they told me you must buy the complete remote and have it programmed at the dealer, which is close on $200 per remote. Does anyine know of any after market company where I could get a new cover for the remote? Thanks.
Someone please let me know if my vehicle has a defect or if this is normal.
Thanks!