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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • liameenliameen Member Posts: 16
    In response to my own questions about (a) replacement keys and
    (b) replacement keyless entry remotes
    (a) It is possible to get a replacement key outside of the dealers. I found them on-line for $17. I was quoted $59 by the dealer for the key. The key must then be programmed. The dealer quoted me $98 to program the key, however my local mechanic says he can get it done by an auto locksmith for much less.
    (b) For the keyless remote- the dealer told me that you cannot get the case on its own, you must buy the complete remote and have it programmed. I was quoted $129 for the remote and $98 to have it programmed. However, I went to a local alarm shop and they quoted me a price of $180 to install a "remote start" system, which would provide two new remotes (though I know they are not Toyota remotes), along with a remote start for the cold morning starts.
  • nativecraftsnativecrafts Member Posts: 1
    -----grinding like metal to metal when stopping and when released, the petal makes a pop noise---- i had exactly the same problem with my 2005 Sequoia. Took it to dealer, but they could not replicate the problem .. the problems kept on coming and going for about 6 months and now it is for over a year, the symptom is no longer there. not sure what happened .. i did make a point to take my foot off the brake when taking sharp turn (you have to hit the brake to slow down prior to taking sharp turn, but release the brake while taking the sharp turn ..) may be that technique helped. did you do anything else to fix the problem?
  • barb24barb24 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 SR5. Whenever I go up hill I have a rotten egg smell. Sometimes it is very strong. I complained about it 6 months ago. The dealer told me to change where I get gas. I did and I get a higher grade of gas. The smell is just as bad or maybe worse. Today when I complained again the dealer told me that all cars have this smell. I really don't have STUPID written across my forehead. Does anyone else have this problem?
  • tee gotee go Member Posts: 6
    I don't have this problem with my 2008 Sequoia, but I did with my 1995 Mazda truck and it was caused by the catalytic converter having a crack in it. The whole thing was replaced and then the problem was solved. I would suggest looking for a mechanic that specializes in Toyota's and getting them to diagonse the problem. If it is something that is under warranty see if the mechanic will honor your warranty or else get a written estimate and then take it to the dealer. If they won't take care of the problem just tell them you are going to report them to Toyota and then go to a different dealer.
    You don't have STUPID written across your foehead, the dealer obviously does!
  • pkpetersonpkpeterson Member Posts: 1
    I just wanted to weigh in on the issue of "rear window" not working. We have a 2004 Sequoia that we bought new in January of 2004. About 5 months ago, at appromimately 55,000 miles, the rear window stopped working. Sure didn't seem possible to be from over use. Anyway, a couple of days ago when I turned the vehicle off, both front windows went down on their own and the moonroof slid back on its own. After the second time that happened, I called the Toyota dealership where we take it for all of its service and explained the situation. They said they would start with the battery, as it was still the original and was close to its life expectancy. I checked the battery myself and it was very corroded, especially around the positive terminal. I took the battery out and went to a local auto parts store where they tested it. The charge tested at 91% but the CCAs (cold cranking amps) were in the 500s and the battery is rated at 710 CCA. I went ahead and bought a new one and took it home to replace it. I also replaced the terminal on the positive with an aftermarket part from the auto parts store, as the original was corroded and pretty brittle in a couple of places. Once the battery was installed, I drove it around the block and parked it back in the garage. Then I went back out and turned it on to see if anything had changed with the rear window, and low and behold, IT WORKED AGAIN!!! I was stunned and very happpy as I was expecting to either not use the rear window again or have to pony up for a pretty expensive repair. With all this said, I don't think it was the new battery, but rather replacing the positive terminal (that may have been causing a short - the copper was compromised) that solved the electrical problem that apparently was causing the rear window not to work.
  • bob246bob246 Member Posts: 1
    hi
    would you tell me how to open hatch?
  • boslaw71boslaw71 Member Posts: 7
    My 2002 sequoia has been acting very strange. cruise control light comes on all the time now (even when cruise is off). Radio now stays on even when we shut the car off, unless we specifically turn off the radio. The temperature reading in the car changed from fahrenheit to celsius (with no way to change it back).

    This car has been rapidly falling apart over the past year (we've had the 4wd system fail, tailgate latch broke twice, tailgate window leak, cd player broke, cassette player broke, antenna motor fail twice, etc etc etc). We are the first and only owners and we have kept up with all regular maintenance, etc.

    We will never be buying Toyota again, but we're hoping someone here can help us figure out this latest electrical problem so we don't have to buy a new car right away.
  • zabrogerzabroger Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone know how to adjust the headlights on a 2008 Sequoia? Mine are too high and everyone I pass flashes me. I've looked under the hood and can't find any obvious adjustments.
  • trapper51trapper51 Member Posts: 27
    I'd like to know too - the Manual says "See your Toyota Dealer". Never had a vehicle that required me to go to my dealer to adjust the headlights.... then again, never have had a vehicle that didint allow the driver to turn on the inside dome light from the dash board...but thats a Toyota thing, not just a Seq. 'feature'.
    BTW - My 2001 Sequoia has 206,000 miles and still going strong. I havent replaced anything except a PRNDL light (Park, reverse, Neutral.... ) since 120,000 miles.... it just keeps saving me money.
  • harboharbo Member Posts: 136
    The Harnes shop manual (any parts house - NAPA / Checker etc) is pretty vague. a lousy picture with the statement, " insert a philips head screwdriver into the hole to make the vertical adjustment". When I looked under the hood at the adjustment point it still is not clear. That said, I'll bet it's the lower bumper driving lites that causes oncoming to flash their beams at you. They can be turned off at the stalk switch. You may want to try that and see if you are still getting flashed.
  • boslaw71boslaw71 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 sequoia limited that has been rapidly falling apart. Latest issue was a replaced windshield which apparently wasn't sealed properly. A leak (which was not caught until the 3rd inspection by Toyota) corroded and ruined the fuse box. When we picked up the car (after they replaced the fuse box), the battery was completely dead and could not be recharged (apparently they left the doors open while repairing the car). The next day, we picked up the car (after they replaced the battery) and the car lost power and couldn't get over 30mph on the highway - back to Toyota. Now, the exhaust system is supposedly shot and needs to be replaced (at a cost of $640).

    Funny how every time we go to Toyota to have something fixed, something else turns up broken the very next day.

    We have had MANY MANY problems with this car, admittedly some were not caused by Toyota, but we are fed up with the quality issues that WERE caused by Toyota (rear door hatch broke twice, power antenna motor broke 3 times, Drive light has been out for 2 years, cheap plastic that scratches when you look at it, etc.).

    Bottom line, we will be buying a new car, and it won't be a Toyota. However, until we can afford the new car, we need to repair the exhaust system. We're out of warranty at this point - is their price reasonable? Any reliable chain that should be able to do it for less? Does their diagnosis sound like it makes sense?
  • zabrogerzabroger Member Posts: 6
    To answer my own question. I took my ’08 sequoia to the dealer today to have a windshield washer fluid level sensor replaced. I asked them about adjusting the headlights. They showed me a black plastic cap on the back side of the headlight that needs to be pulled off, under that is a nut that you turn to adjust the headlight.
  • mikey13170mikey13170 Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for the post. I have had my 08 now for three weeks and have been flashed about 20 times. I know I have great visibility with the lights and never have to put them on bright, but I may have to make a change in them as well. I sometimes feel guilty when I pull up behind someone in a little car at stoplights and they are completely flooded in light from my Sequoia......I get over it real quick, because most people should accept these things when they buy a vehicle. My wife has Mini Cooper and when I drive it at night I get the same bright lights in my rearview mirror.....I just adjust the mirror and move on.
  • trapper51trapper51 Member Posts: 27
    Cool - thanks for the tip - I've been living with my sub-standard '01 Sequoia headlights for 8 yrs now - but funny thing, the original headlamps have not yet burned out. I swapped them for Sylvania SilverStars thinking I'd finally get brighter beam - but hardly noticable, and the Sylvanias burned out in exactly 1 year. I wrote Sylvania and they admitted "the lifespan will be short for their "High performance" bulbs"! They also gave me refund and I'm using Bosch now I think. The headlights in my wifes 2003 Highlander are much much brighter but dont fit into the Seq..unfortunately - it may be the reflector thats better,not sure. Ive thought about replacing the fog lights with driving lights but havent gotten around to it. Other than the hatch latch failing repeatedly, and the Drive lite out on the dash (at 202,000 miles I cant complain) nothing major has sidelined this vehicle.
  • jerrydockjerrydock Member Posts: 29
    Like a lot of other Sequoia owners, I have had brake problems and VSC problems.

    I finally found the solution. Here is what I did. Good luck with your vehicle.

    One day I was on ebay and noticed a set of rear and front brake calipers for a 2006 Sequoia. I was bored and bid $99.00...damn I won. I figured, OK, I will need a set of good discs to go with them. Again I found a set on ebay...CHEAP. New. Drilled and slotted front and rear.

    When I jacked up the Sequoia to work on the brakes, I did the rears first...NO PROBLEMS.

    The front was a different matter. I knew the front 2006 calipers were larger, but I did not know that the backing plate on my 2001 would interfere with mounting them. I got my sawzall out and a new metal cutting blade. Chopped about an inch and a half off the corners of the backing plate...top and bottom...VOILA... it works. The only other thing that you have to remember is that the 2006 calipers are thinner so you will need to use a washer with the bolt so it does not botttom out when you try to tighten it all up.

    NOW FOR THE REALLY GOOD NEWS.

    I decided to "re-set" the memory in the on board computers. Doing this is easy. Disconnect the battery. Hold the negative cable and the positive cable together for 10 seconds. Since I did all this, I have had NO warnings from the VSC. The vehicle stops extremely well and the rotors are true so that all my brake chatter and small shimmy at highway speeds has disappeared.

    I hope this helps everyone.

    So why has Toyota not addressed this issue? Damned if I know. I am just happy to finally have a properly functioning vehicle after 8 years of aggrevation.
  • harboharbo Member Posts: 136
    Wow .... thx from all us Sequoia owners ... !! Are the brakes more positive (firm) ??

    My Sequoia an 02, 120,000 mile Lmtd. Routine maintenence except for (2nd) rear latch. K & N air filters, Bosch Platinum 4 prong plugs, Castrol Syntx 5W40. 16/17 City, 20 mpg highway @ interstate + spds. I'm waiting for the twin turbo diesel Sequoia. Get with the future Toyota Corp.
  • jerrydockjerrydock Member Posts: 29
    The brakes are awesome. It stops without drama. No vibrations. No shimmying. No "out of balance" feeling while at speed. Stopping distances are dramatically reduced. What I still cannot get over is the absence of the old VSC warning lights flashing and the ABS going out.

    I just wish I had sat down and applied what I knew about race cars to this problem 5 years ago when I gave up on Toyota and their "technicians". I prefer mechanics.
  • brin2003brin2003 Member Posts: 1
    We just had this similar problem. Everytime we started the car and put it into drive, you could hear the VSC/TRAC system trying to work and then it would beep,and the lights would come on and stay on. I saw that someone else had taken out the VSC sensors from the wheel hub, on all four tires and found they were rusted. When the rust is cleaned off and reinstalled, then unplug vehicle battery to reset computer and the problem is solved. THere is a O-ring that is worn on my back two wheels that has allowed rust and debris to form on the sensors. I'll be replacing those rings. This was a pretty simple fix, for what could have been a very expensive dealer repair.
  • UNKAGEDUNKAGED Member Posts: 2
    Hey, we just bought an '01 Sequioa and it was idling a bit rough....but only while in Park. When you are pulled up to a stop light or checking the mail with your foot on the brake while in drive.....it doesn't have a rough idle at that time. The truck now has 120,000 miles on it....and everything else on the vehicle is fine. I was thinking about changing the spark plugs....??? Anyone have any suggestions on whether this will help???
  • jerrydockjerrydock Member Posts: 29
    When you change the plugs, clean the throttle body. It is easy to do. Get a can of carb clenaer and start spraying away at the accumulated grime in the intake.

    I suspect your problem will disappear.
  • UNKAGEDUNKAGED Member Posts: 2
    Will do jerrydock.....thanks for your reply.....
  • robert140robert140 Member Posts: 1
    I recently came across a 2002 Sequoia for sale with 150,000 miles. Looked like it was in good condition, but before getting too involved with it, just wondering if anyone out there would recommend it with such high mileage. Appreciate your thoughts.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That works out to well over 20,000 miles per year which is quite high (typical is around 12-14,000 per year). Mileage like that is indicative of highway miles and some would interpret that as a good thing. In any case, you can use that high mileage as a bargaining chip.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • trapper51trapper51 Member Posts: 27
    I continue to drive a 2001 with 208,000 miles here in New England - has been the longest living vehicle we have owned, and the least problematic. Total repairs have not exceeded $5000 and of that half were under warranty by 100k miles - such as 4WD differential and seals, intake manifold leak, JBL speakers (junk) and of course the plastic rear latch release - 3 times. I tow a boat occasionally in summer, and light off -road for necessity not sport, but mostly drive highway miles year round. If this one gets hit I'll replace it with another, especially to get the larger engine - the 4.7 struggles to tow. Adding a K&N air intake was worth the $150. Good tires (not the low mileage OEM Dunplops) and Mobile 1 will keep you on the road.
    My other family members with Yukons or Pickups think Im telling them stories.
    I tell them Toyota furloughed their US SUV/Truck plant employees with pay while GM and Ford just keep throwing them away, on top of squandering customers' money on foreign acquisitions they cannot integrate - Land Rover, Jaguar etc.
    Good luck.
  • harboharbo Member Posts: 136
    Robaert140,
    My 02 Sequoia has 115,000 trouble free miles. One power antenna, 2 rear door latch's, transmission flush, injector flush, coolant flush at 95,000. Replaced original Bridgestons at 45K w/ Michelin LTX M/S 265 R70 16 that should make 140,000. One set of brake pads and turned rotors at 75,000. Basically a bullet-proof truck. Run K & N air filter & Bosch Platinum 4 prong plugs. Castrol Syntec 5w40 change at 8,000 miles. Love this rig.
  • kineokineo Member Posts: 7
    My '01 just passed 140k. I do drive a lot of highway miles, put on over 30k last year alone. With regular oil changes, tire rotations and one latch. I also agree if this one did get hit ,I'd get another without a second thought!!! One question for fellow high mile owners when did you change the timing belt? Thanks ;)
  • backsterbackster Member Posts: 12
    2001 Limited with 166K and absolutely love it-one of the best vehicles I have owned-just put a deposit on a 2008 limited! My vote go for it!!!
  • kingfans1kingfans1 Member Posts: 137
    I have 2006 Camry LE V6 with 139,000 Miles.. I haven't done any transimission flush, timin belt, or major repair... done replacing brake pads at 90,000 miles ..regular oil change, rotate tires.. V6 camry is very reliable... I live in Reno/Lake Tahoe Area. I want to upgrade to 2008 Sequoia SR5 4x4.. anyone know when 2009 Sequoia are coming out?????
  • youngphyoungph Member Posts: 1
    My 04 Sequoia has a problem with the truck trying to turn over the engine in short blips with no key in the ignition. It will turn the engine over every 20 - 30 seconds until the battery runs down at which point it just clicks. This has happened two other times in the last 6 months. I have replaced the battery twice and it is back in the shop. Any ideas on what could be the problem ? :sick:
  • normhnormh Member Posts: 30
    Does anyone know how to replace the bulb (for night illumination) in a Homelink button?

    Thanks,

    Norm....
  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    Have an '05 SR5 - dinged the tail light on the driver's side by hitting the trash cart backing out - got a replacement part for the outside driver's side tail light. Two screws to pop off - but is there an easy way to get to the inside and unplug the existing one and plug in the new one without, it seems, taking off most of the inside covers (where the head rest for the third row middle seat is stored)?
    Thanks!
  • harboharbo Member Posts: 136
    Norm did you get an answer? I have the same problem.
    Thx .. Harbo
  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    With the help of a friendly body shop owner, I solved my problem by simply twisting the original tail light and turn signal bulbs out of the damaged tail light and putting them into the new one. No need to unplug or replace the wiring at all, nor tear apart any inside panels. And now I have two spare bulbs.
  • danted23danted23 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I can find tons of websites selling aftermarket and replacement parts for the "main" components of the Sequoia, but does anybody have a good site/suggestion on where I can find the smaller, cheaper pieces?

    For example, I need to find the little plastic light cover on the rear door that covers the light that turns on when the door is open.

    Thanks!
  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    After a 500 mile trip, I garaged the '05 Seq (87K miles) and smelled burned oil. The local dealer showed me some grease from the apparently over-lubbed (the dealership did the service work) front u-joint had hit the transmission housing and caused the odor. But he also pointed out a leak on the boot of the driver's side rack & pinion area. Said a seal is probably going bad. Also said it was very expen$ive to repair (quoted over a grand for the rack&pinion plus labor). Anyone else have that problem? Is there a less costly fix? How serious is the problem?
    Thanks!
  • salem6salem6 Member Posts: 1
    my Sequoia is an '01 with 185k miles and after the last service with the dealer - I was alerted to a small leak also on the rack and pinion - it was early stage and no repair required yet. Similar cost estimate for replacing the whole unit with no alternative, would welcome thoughts re. repair rather than complete unit replacement
  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    Took the '05 to a frame/alignment shop and they cleaned the boot and area around the boot on both sides and said to give it a week to see if it really is a leak or something else. He said he thought it was rare that the seals would leak unless the part was hit. So I'm going to see what happens over the weekend's 600 mile travels. Also, a local junk yard quoted a $600 parts price for a complete rack/pinion set. Good luck on yours, too.
  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    Well, after the long trip, I still have some leakage around the boot area. But the mechanic suggested that, unless there was fluid on the floor, it wasn't serious enough to replace the rack & pinion system at this time. So I'll see how the next 80K miles go! Anyone else have that experience? Thanks.
  • raybobraybob Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 2004 Sequoia and the rear hatch won't unlock. I've tried to unlock it with the key and the transmitter with no success. I can hear the selenoid working, but the hatch won't unlock. Every once in a while it surprises me and it unlocks, but only 5% of the time. Anyone had this experience and know how to fix it short of taking it to the dealer??
  • trapper51trapper51 Member Posts: 27
    Yes - we all have had this problem -rear hatch has been problematic with the Sequoia - I have a 2001 with 209,000 miles and have fixed this 3x. Be sure to lubricate with PB Blaster or WD40 the external hatch release as well as the release block down at the base of the lift gate. (The external hand release is plastic and couldnt take the wear - it just snaps. The lower actual lock seems to rust badly but liubrication helps. Use the electronic key to lock and unlock many times. Repairs will cost $200 or more - the tech needs to work around the power window motor to replace the plastic handle - ask for a longer than normal warranty on this part and exercise it extensively - mine broke again after, you guessed it, 400 days! Fortunately - thats just about all that has broken a second time.
    Unfortunately - when the lock goes there is NO WAY to open or release this gate manually - very poor design, along with the heavy steel construction. My wife's Highlander just about opens by itself. Maybe someone else has a more permanent fix for this - like replacing it with something 100% manual? Good luck,
  • raybobraybob Member Posts: 3
    Can you manually release the latch by taking off the interior panel??
  • trapper51trapper51 Member Posts: 27
    yes - Believe you can - just be careful removing the panel - helps to have some panel pullers (cheap sets avail. from Harbor Freight - you might need them again) so you can re-attach it w/o destroying any of the clips. A junk yard might have the part but you might need to bring the panel pullers along. The upper Plastic latch release part was $60 or $75 - and as I said, in 200k miles I'm on my 3rd so might not be worth getting one off a wrecked Seq. that might be ready to break. My son the mechanic did the job in 1 hr.
  • raybobraybob Member Posts: 3
    Just for fun, I went by my local Toyota dealer today and asked them what they thought the problem was. As you can guess, they weren't much help and occered to make an appointment to fix it. I didn't fall for it. I guess it comes down to me trying to get the hatch open from the outside and when that fails, roll down the window and jump in head first! I'm sure I can fix it, but don't really want to spend my time when I could be doing more productive, like fishing, golf, or being lazy. I guess tomorrow's the day to do it. Thanks for the help. Ray
  • sb55sb55 Member Posts: 616
    Try a body shop. That's what I did, and got it fixed for $75.00.

    2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT

  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    Had the camshaft sensor replaced at 88K miles on my '05 SR5 at the local Toyota dealer($400); was wondering if that indicates other engine/transmission problems might be coming along, or would that be considered "expected" wear and tear? Thanks!
  • trapper51trapper51 Member Posts: 27
    At 209,000 miles I can honestly say I have yet to replce any engine components - either due to wear or failure on my 2001 Sequoia. The vehicle and powertrain continues to amaze me. I have replaced 4WD seals and the Diff once under warranty, and had the intake manifold leak air which necessitated rrplacement at 99,000 just inside warranty $(1300). But other than brakes and O2 sensors (Check engine light) and the PRNDL light on dash - not even a light bulb replacement! I tried aftermarket Sylvania headlights to improve my night vision but they failed after 1 yr and Sylvania even agreed that was 'Normal for "High performance" bulbs"\' - but sent me a replacement coupon - So when they failed again in another year I put the original Toyota bulbs back in and they're still going strong. So much for Sylvania manufacturing and hype - or maybe Toyota QC.
  • kineokineo Member Posts: 7
    Wondering have you also not changed the timing belt?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    Expected wear and tear.
  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    Thanks, canddmeyer. I asked the question because after owning 7 Toyotas over the last 38 years (Tercel, 3 Camrys, Highlander, Corolla and Sequoia) this was my first camshaft sensor issue with any vehicle.
  • John9393John9393 Member Posts: 3
    I know this reply is a year and a half late, but I found it when I went looking, so I'll reply just in case anyone else finds this. I have a 2001 Sequoia LTD, and we had it in to the dealer for a check engine light on. The dealer ran the codes, and told us we had two bad catalytic converters and a bad rear oxygen sensor. Their estimate: $4000 for the repair.

    Now this sounded a bit fishy to me. I've heard of catalytic converters going bad, but not on a vehicle only 8 years old.And for sure not two at the same time. Way too much of a coincidence!!

    So I went to a mechanic friend of mine and asked him the question. And he said there was a good chance that just replacing the bad oxygen sensor would correct all of the codes. So I bought a new sensor at AutoZone ($129), rented a car code reader. The code reader "confirmed" what the shop had said - both catalytic converters and one oxygen sensor had trouble codes. I swapped out the sensor (15 minute job), and cleared the computer (pulled the negative battery cable off for 5 minutes). Sure enough, when I redid the code read, it came up clean - no problems.

    So for $129 and 15 minutes, I saved $4000. Not bad. But I think that buys me the right to complain a little. This is speculation on my part, but it seems like the only sensor points that could show a problem in either catalytic converter are the two rear oxygen sensors. And if one of them is showing a trouble code, couldn't that be the cause of the catalytic converters showing trouble codes?? It's kinda like saying, "That sensor is broken, but it is still working fine." I would think the dealer would at least say, "You have a bad oxygen sensor and POSSIBLY two bad catalytic converters. But we need to change the oxygen sensor before we can be sure." Come on - two catalytic converters coincidentally failing at exactly the same time?? The dealer is supposed to be smarter than I. How come this sounded suspicious to me, but not to them? So I'm not saying the dealer was crooked (after all, the codes for two bad catalytic converters and a bad sensor did show up on the computer). I'm just saying that it is not a bad thing to get a second opinion for any larger repair, even if it is a dealer telling you that you need it....
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