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Comments
NV002-05
Title:
DOOR WIND NOISE IMPROVEMENT
Models:
'01 - '05 Highlander
February 10, 2005
Introduction
Some vehicles may exhibit wind noise coming from both the front and rear door window glass. The following repair has been developed to improve this condition.
Applicable Vehicles
^ 2001 - 2005 model year Highlander vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change
Involves replacing the door trim molding
__________________________________________________________________
Here is a link to a part of Edmunds where you can research for yourself, what TSBs might be for your vehicle TSBs
Also how would someone who has purchased a used HL know if the services have been performed on their vehicle. I hate to think you are supposed to "assume" the dealer took care of it. :confuse:
If we push the "comp" button the compass/temp display shows, and then once it is on, if we push the "temp" button it goes off and visa versa. So why the 2 buttons for the same thing and does the auto dimming feature work automatically or is there something we need to do to control the intensity of headlights it senses?
May sound like a dumb question but have never had an auto dimming mirror and know from experience salesman unfortunately don't know about all the options on vehicles.
thanks
Did a search but didn't find exactly what was done by the dealer. Has anybody had this fixed/addressed?
I have the TSB for the "famous" trans problem so I figure while my 04 Limited is at the dealer for that, I'll have them fix the "recirculation" problem and replace the rear door gas shocks.
TIA!
Yes! I did have that done to my 05 Limited. Had to convince the dealer' service advisor that it was possible, but it is something they can do by changing a setting in the (i think its called) body computer I have heard it called a "CBest" option.
Hope this helps
Jeff
The green is already on so is that all that needs to happen for the auto dimming feature to work? And does it dim with any lights in the rearview mirror or do they have to be extremely bright? I can't find anything in the owners manual about this mirror at all. I guess my question basically is 'how do I know it is working'? Had cars behind me one night and I didn't see any difference in their appearance in mirror and I thought we drove a car not too long ago that had one of these and any headlights in the mirror showed up with a green/gray tinge but maybe this one is different.
Guess I could have someone shine a flashlight in the rear window and see if there is any change to test to see if it is working properly.
Any info appreciated.
If the green light is "on", then it should be working properly.
Your mirror has a light sensor in the front of it. This is so during the daylight, it won't dim. Understandably.
To check the operation and to see if you have it working properly try this.
You can do this during daylight hours.
Over the opening of the front (forward facing) sensor, place a piece of masking tape or other tape that light can't get through, electrical tape works the best.
After a few seconds, maybe longer, you'll see or should see the display (number/letters) dim. Now take a small flashlight and shine it on the rear (back facing) sensor. The mirror should dim as you shine the light at the sensor, then fade away as you remove the light.
Depending on the vehicles lights behind you, you won't always notice the mirror dimming. I've noticed this on my 04 Limited.
Don't forget to remove the tape from the front sensor.
Hope this helped!
i'm just head over heels for this vehicle. i sold my rav 4 and this feels like luxury to me.
I am in MA, became a new 2005 Highlander owner and drove it 3000 miles. I cannot find in manual, but is there any free first oil change and inspection by dealer?
My colleagues said they should, but the dealer said "No. Pay everything".
Please tell me if you know the fact. Thanks!
How difficult is it to do? I have read and heard stories where owners have had it done and wound up with check engine service light coming on because the service man left some thing loose.
To change the air filter... remove the vacuum hose at the back of the air filter housing (towards the firewall)...it's a simple pinch spring clamp......why remove? when opening the air box up to remove the filter..the vacuum hose is too short and will pull off. then, just unlatch the air box cover retaining clips..flip up and open the air filter housing...swap the element out, reclip the all clamps..including the vaccum hose at the rear of the air filter housing box. < 5 minutes
fyi...the pollen filter gets pretty nasty after a couple of years...it's behind the glove box...also simple to change...your owner's manual has some simple instructions...I just removed the glove door hinges to set the door aside...to get at the pollen filter. might also want to vac out in and around the pollen filter casing...it was pretty dusty.... about a 5 minute job.
John
1. I took my Corrola (about 5 months old) to a well known dealer in the Concord NH area after being told by a tire dealer I had a tire that needed balancing and that it should be done under warrantee. The service representative I spoke to refused to do it and told me it was probably a wheel bent from hitting something pointing to scratches on the wheel. She had backup there in the form of a service technician. Only until I asked to speak to the Service Manager that she agreed to balance the tire. After doing so she admitted it was out of balance. That of course fixed the problem. (talk about good will, what did that cost them to aggrevate me). Of course they were off the list.
2. Corrola goes in for routine oil change at a dealer in the Salem NH area. I get the car back with the cabin filter pulled out and my glove box (camera included face down on the display) all mixed up. Did I ask to have my car taken apart ? No, I just wanted my oil changed. Stopping around the corner for coffee soon after I noticed the oil filter loose. I tightened it by hand. Maybe if the tech didn't have to take the car apart looking for things to charge you for, he'd have had time to do the oil change properly.
3. Oil change on my Highlander at a dealer in the Tewksbury Ma area. I get the car back with an extra quart or so of oil, about an inch over the dip stick. In asking about this (maybe there's a TSR or something), I get the usual lip service from someone that probably learned how to spell Toyota last week. Interestingly, while I was there I heard the most funny explanation being told to a customer on the phone about rusted brakes on a three year old Camry and how it's not covered under warantee because they were "rusted" and not serviced when they should. . But that's another story.....
The summary of this is stay away from Toyota Service departments unless it's absolutely necessary. After three strikes, oil changes will be performed by local shops. Hopefully, I won't need warrantee service. The cars are great but, the service doesn't make the extra money to buy a Toyota worth it.
Safe driving everyone.
I would never walk away from buying a vehicle I wanted just because the dealer's service shop is inconsistent. Just find another shop.
The are tons of horror stories out there about any other make's shops also.
Just my take on it.
I bought an engine filter from Purolator for $16. No difference in price. I like the OEM filter from Toyota because it shows you the position to place the filter correctly in the air box.
The Service and Parts department in Spitzer Toyota in Monroeville, PA is very nice. I am always treated as a king, so is my car. That is another season I keep coming back there.
Thanks.
.
So although my HL doesn't have the hesitation, I sincerely sympathize with those that do.
Hearing good comments regarding dealerships at least gives me some confidence that if I needed serious work on the cars, there might be a Toyota dealership that can do it competantly.
Regards and safe driving.
Pulled fuse, lights are out
How about the power steering do you have it flushed? I will consider having it done at 75000.
I want to know what you think, not what we have read about doing it on different auto web sites.
I've always changed out my trans fluid regularly. I consider it cheap insurance since I keep my vehicles for at least 5 years. A friend of mine works for Mobil and showed me some 'internal' documents regarding fluid breakdown. It was interesting to see that the 3k oil change interval is bunk (their oil engineers recommend 5k for most cars) and that trans fluid shows much less ability to fend off heat and to lubricate properly at the 30k mark than they thought. It goes on to point out several more advantages to changing trans fluid, expecially with the workout that the fluid gets in todays more modern transmissions (like my Highlander's 5 spd auto). I change the trans fluid twice as much as Harley recommends for my bike and I've never had a trans failure in over 1 million miles on various bikes. I can't say the same for my friends, who think trans fluid is not as important. I just carry over the philosophy to my cars and, IMHO, it works.
As to PS fluid, with me it depends on the fluid condition. On Fords it deteriorates fast and I flushed it at 30k, then every 15k. GM, Honda, and Toyota seem to fair much better and I've only done it on a high-mileage GM. You don't really see it in manuals at all; however, changing the fluid is cheap insurance when you keep a vehicle a long time. I also will flush the brake fluid, but only when I do a full brake job. I see both of these systems as closed and unless something gets in to contaminate them, they should work fine.
My .02
Robert
Park to Drive(or Revserse) after having removed the key with the steering wheel turned in or out etc.