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Life is short. Why make something that should be fun a miserable ordeal.
That was my point.
For many getting 1-2k off sticker price is heaven. For most of us (informed buyers) we want to make sure we get invoice minus all the applicable incentives, all or part of the holdback, plus good financing. The dealer that is willing to earn our business will do this and more. Also, when possible we would get any add ons online and install them ourselves.
The dealership that would give you great prices, pay great for your trade in, plus give u great service every time just because you are who u are is not on earth.It would be nice if such a great dealership existed. Imho I think is all about doing the most extensive research you can about the car u r considering, then buying the car you want at the best price possible at the time you want or need it. That will always be the best price/deal you could get.
Is this correct?
Ah...why would any merchant sell anything without making a profit?
Have you ever owned a business? Just curious, that's all.
Also, let's understand something, the actual/real price of the car is not what they "sell us" w the invoice, I am sure that there is always a way they make money that only the big cats know about. Honda and the owners of these dealerships are the only ones that know what's the real bottom line price at the end of the transaction and the big cats will never lose. So, any final sale includes profit for them, but for many salespeople the profit is barely there.
Salespeople by the nature of the way the business is setup out more money in their pocket by taking more money out of yours. Don't hate the game you invented when others seek out information, aka the instruction manual or directions and then beat you at your own game. My goal is to get a new car at the best possible price, hence saving my hard earned money to do other things with, I.e save for my kids college, family vacations, whatever it is I wish to do. The very first dealership I went to tried to sell me the car for $900 more than the very next dealership quoted me. $900 that could be spent or saved for me and my family. I have befriended many salespeople and managers in the car business over the years through my regular job (nothing to do with he car business) and I've met sales people who earned in excess of $400,000 a year. How? I'd fathom to guess because if ruthless sales tactics and getting people to overpay for something they want. So don't blame me for doing what's bet for me and my family, I will drive 100 miles to save a few hundred bucks, others won't and that's their choice.
msrp = 26195
invoice = 24037 (from truecar)
weymouth price with doc fee = 23511
I am assuming that weymouth is still making a profit selling that car at $526 below invoice. I believe there may be $500 dealer cash available at the moment but we can't be sure of that. As a consumer, how do i determine what is a reasonable profit for any dealer if the bottom line cost cannot be easily determined? Obviously, invoice price is not the bottom line. I am honestly looking for input on this...
isellhondas, what say you?
Should we be satisfied with invoice price minus current incentives?
Referrals are a great thing if your in a country town, Not big city with 200 dealerships selling the same product. Competition is a consumers dream. i love the Art of Car Negotiations and i play by the rules that are set up by car Companies. i play there game every 3 or 4 years when i buy. As consumers your dealerships overhead cost is your problem not mine. I'm buying a product from you so if you cant effectively run your business time to close shop. None of these dealerships are hurting there are to many misinformed stupid buyers out there. Mudguards and Cargo tray $470 perfect example. These are the people my honda is sticking up for..
Back to the silent money. and how much each dealership gets for Volume sales and selling each unit we dont know along with other incentives???.
This is the best starting formula on pricing when negotiating.
Invoice Price
minus dealer hold back on your model
minus any incentives and rebates
minus doc fee's
This is the number you work up from til you find the true market value of the selling price. supply and demand play a big part in pricing.
I'm not saying you can get all of the listed above but buying with this formula will put you in the best position for pricing.
Why is it that honda dealerships can sell much cheaper in California than on the East Coast. Or in truck Country where Accords dont sell.. Dealers claim they all work off the same numbers. Lie after lie after lie.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks to all for posting what you have paid/quotes and also Brian's pointers.
I drove home with a new 2013 Accord Touring sedan Black on Black Jan 30. I live in VA and I started back in Nov negotiating with dealers in VA, Ga, Ma, and NJ. I was preapproved by my credit union. Did what Brian suggested with negotiating. After talking with at least 50 dealerships in the states mentioned above only two were willing to sell the car at $1000.00 below edmunds posted invoice. Weymouth in Mass and Autosport Honda in NJ. Weymouth could not get there hand on the 13 Accord touring until Feb but Autosport had it and was ready to deal at my price. I was able to knock $100.00 off the $299.00 proc fee and could not get them to remove all of it. They were hardover on keeping some of the proc fee since I was getting the car at the $1000.00 below edmunds invoice. After processing fee I bought the vehicle at $800.00 under edmunds posted invoice. No dealership I spoke to in VA could even come $1,200 to 1,500.00 close to that . I performed the taxes, registration and titling back at my local DMV in order not to pay the dealer extra cost. (you can get a release of dealership obligation form from your bank that your financing through to perform this).
Both Weymouth and Autosport Honda were great to deal with and they were upfront on the fee's when I discussed with them. They did not try to sneak in any other fees. Also I was upfront with both of what fee's I would not pay.
Assessories. I purchased those through Collegehills honda's website and received those Honda genuine parts and have had those installed. Car looks great!! All the dealerships I spoke with could not get their retail accessories prices down to collegehill wesite (cuts into their profits to much).
Aero Kit, deck lid spoiler total $1,189.48
Chrome look rims $1187.52
Accessory total $2377.00
Below is price paid for the car not including the Accessories I purchased on my own and installed locally.
No accessories were installed on vehicle when I purchased from the dealership.
$30,366.00(includes the $790.00 dest fee)
+199.00 (processing fee)
+$5.00 NJ 20 day Temp tag fee
Total paid prior to the 3% Va tax I paid at the DMV
$30,570.00
Hope this helps!!! :shades:
25,200 + Tax & Title
Congratulations, you negotiated a great deal on an excellent car. I bought my Accord three months ago (V6 EX-L Sedan, Black/Black) and have enjoyed every moment behind the wheel.
It takes several million dollars to build and open a modern car dealership and the overhead is staggering.
I think I understand. If some people pay sticker for a new car that enables a store to lose money on people like yourself.
Our store was exceptional. They still have the same owner, General Manager, General Sales Manager and Used Car Manager that were there when I started in 1995. I made six figures and, no, I didn't "cheat" anybody.
Since the Accords are brand new this year and from what I hear are selling at a brisk pace, I would be surprised if there are any incentives going on.
Assuming they are, what are you waiting for? If you can REALLY buy one at that price without anything else added, what more could you want?
Go for it!
i know you dont agree with my buying method and i come off loud and pushy and i\m sure you have some more choice words for me. Thats fine.. I do respect what you are saying and think you and your customers were treated with respect, honesty. " like the guy who lived next store" with a great following and you gave them a good price while you worked in the industry. You are a dying bred and its ashame.. The Internet has changed things over the years. just like big store chains Wall mart, Home depot , Lowes etc. knocking out all the mom and pop stores. do i agree with it... No. do i feel bad Absolutly . Times have Changed. So you adapt and play by the Rules. Many of the forum members here are very internet savy and look to get the best possible price. Thats why the customer who pays more makes up for the smart buyer who is looking for his best deal. That has to be respected.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Anyway, my goal is to get the car I want for the price I feel is fair and I can afford. If I have to wait a few months, so be it. But, I wouldn't drive 300 miles for $100. Maybe for $200 lol.
God bless people that are honest like u and that dealership u worked for, because, they are no longer the norm. I bumped into so much stuff, that I am happy to bump into honest people and businesses w integrity.
Just want to thank you again. Not for my help thou...LOL
Your the reason i have no car this month. Auto- sport would not make that deal with me. I wanted the Black EXL V-6 Touring.. Autosport said they sold there last one and have no more in stock.
You recieved the best deal this month on that model. The LX models are selling cheaper dealers have alot on there lots.
I'm curious to know... Auto sports doc fee's are 299 you said they kocked off 100.
Did they list on the buyers order 199 or was it typed in 299. thus reducing your sale price by 100 dollars......... Tks
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Honda Owner's link says
"Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.
American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions"
However most of the popular websites recommend changing it during the first 500 miles or 1000 miles.
So when are you getting the 1st oil change done ?
That was the thinking 30 years ago.
Very easy to deal with over the web & on the phone, & no pressure when you go in to pick up the car. I bought a 208 Accord EXL V6 there as well for a comparable discount, so I highly recommend them.
this was back in mid-Dec., btw, so you might be able to do even better now.
Good luck!
MSRP: 30,800
My purchase price before TTL: 26700
Doc fee: 250
Total Purchase price = $26950
Ohio Taxes: 7% => 1886.50
Title: 34.50
Total OTD paid: $28,871
Freebies by Dealer: Mudguards and Wheel locks
Financed the loan amount through PenFed @ 1.49% apr.
Was this a good deal?
Love the features and the feel of this car. Plan to keep it for a while. So was being extra cautious about the break-in and oil changes.
Excellent deal at 26950; which dealer in Dayton, OH area? Please, not Hidy!
"You may include the dealership name, city and state in your post. Please do not post last names of salespeople, telephone numbers, email addresses, or other contact information."
I decided to talk with an actual Honda mechanic whom has over 18 years of experience working at this dealership. Basically, he told me it is always a good idea to protect myself and he recommended I have my 1st oil change between 500 and 1000 miles (which is usually a standard for a new vehicle engine break in). Have my 2nd oil change at 2500 to 3000 miles and then follow the maintenance minder display in the vehicle there after. Since my dealership offers a $9.99 oil change special for its repeat customers, I opted to follow the mechanics advice. I'd prefer peace of mind versus having problems later (preventive maintenance).
So, I hope this helps some of you out there.
Just my 2 cents
You are to follow the maintenance minder as per the owners manual. Now is true about the fact that u should change it more often depending on driving conditions (too hot, too cold, etc). That's why I personally, besides the first oil change, I have changed mine way before the maintenance minder around 40-50% and had no problems thank God.
A technician suggested me to follow the manual to the T and stick to it, as the people that engineered this car know exactly what your car needs every time.
I bumped into so many Honda Technicians that will tell u stuff like "u need to flush this and that". when in reality if u read the manual Honda clearly stand against these flushes... go figure. I confronted many of them and they had to agree when confronted w the truth.
But like I said if u know this person and u feel comfortable go for it, I wouldn't say that it will hurt anyway.
He was funny and super honest. In situations like this he would send me home and said: go home and save your money for something else.
Regarding first oil change, I have done it when the car hit 4k - 5K. MY understanding is first oil is the the break in, whether special or not I have stuck with it. ON the 3 honda's that I have followed these procedures no issues.
Last, someone I work with surprised me quite a bit. He has an accord, probably a 2005, on which he has 135K now, and the only thing that he does is oil changes. Before that he had another accord, which went to 260K, again only regular oil changes. After 150K he told me he switches to the thicker oil. I still use synthetic, yes it is more expensive, but I don't mind.
Cheers all,
Julian
Except for a few Euro exotics, no car needs an oil change after 500-1000 miles.. And, you said your manual states that the car has "special break-in oil" that needs to be in there to protect your engine? That seems pretty clear to me...
Doing something extra that's not needed? No big deal..
Doing something that the manual tells you is specifically harmful? Why chance it?
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Exactly! They use a special break in oil that enables the rings to seat in etc. Changing it early ESPECIALLY using synthetic may cause it to use oil throughout it's lifetime.
I sent an email to American Honda, since they cover the warranty on the vehicle, for a second opinion. Having a response from them on record wouldn't hurt. I'll pass on what they say.
As for the wind noise, I _have_ heard a little bit of wind by my left ear, but not loud enough to bother me. Those problems are mostly limited to the early VINs and are being repaired by dealers now.
I have the V6, so no CVT for me. And I'm not experiencing the vibration that other V6 owners have. It does downshift when it decides it wants to, but I'm growing fond of it.
The mirror camera is making me (and all of us) a little bit stupider because there's really no reason to check the mirror anymore. The camera is better. Not so clear at night.
My seat heats up quickly. The A/C is especially quiet under "Econ" conditions as the blower is kept slower. It is doing the job.
I assume you meant your wife would be in the "trunk", not the "truck". I can tell you that no one outside your car will hear her scream if she's in the car.
I am comparing all of this stuff to my 1999 V6, so just about everything is an improvement.
The variable cruise control? That'd be pretty cool, but no worth the extra 2K.
Wondering....
You are $1500 under. Nice work. You'll love the car.
Michael.