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Those errors really make me question the validity of some posts.
I try to overlook these basic grammar gaffes, common as they are. But it's certainly tempting to wonder what their purveyors had their heads up during three years of high-school English.
Sorry, but it just irks me. Typo's happen (I sure have plenty) and misspellings can happen when one gets a brain fizzle, but basic understanding of words makes me wonder just how much the poster knows what his is talking about.
I disregard this matter when it comes to those for whom English is obviously a second language (and commend them for being able to communicate in English. I can't speak any other language).)
Of course, when going out to lunch today, my friend noticed this and being an engineer, he wanted to look at it a bit closer. From the cracking, it was noticed that the visor was no longer secured to the mounting pole, which allowed for the visor to easily slide off of the pole. This is where things just got worse, as he pulled off the visor, pieces of broken plastic fell out. And on top of that, attempting to put the visor back on the pole proved worthless.
I just told him to leave it, and when I got home I removed the visor, unclipped the wiring connection and tried to see if I had any chance of fixing it. No way. Looks like I will be making a trip to the dealer to order a new visor.
There is a phenomenon on my newly purchased 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. When I start the engine, the low oil pressure warning light stays on for approximately three seconds before it goes out. This happens whenever the engine is cool (eg, turn off the engine and let it cool for 15 minutes and then try to turn it on again). I took my car to my local dealer today and they told me that was normal. But I am still concerned. Shouldn't the light go off immediately after the engine is started? Isn't the oil pressure built up in no time when the engine is running? Can the three-second pressure-buildup gap lead to any extra wear and tear of the engine? If you happen to know the answers, please kindly let me know.
Two ideas come to mind. Purchase a little Digital recorder and make them an Mp3 of the noise. I loved my unit that had the Mp3 & editing software. Or # 2...
Take the Hyundai Challenge and pick up one of the brand new 06 or 07 Sonatas. You'll love it!
BTW, shouldn't there be a valve in the oil filter that prevents the oil in the filter from draining back to the crankcase after the engine is shut down?
Have you had an oil change yet?
If so, it's possible you have a bad filter. Certain aftermarket filters allow the oil to drain back into the engine. Hyundai has a TSB out on this, and warns against using aftermarket filters. I wouldn't even rule out a defective factory filter.
Problems such as this rarely go away, and if anything, will get worse.
There is a chance that you are used to another transmission, and simply are not used to the electronically controlled transmission "feel". Since I have no idea what a "drag back" feeling is, I can't help you there.
Does the transmission have a shift lag between gears? This can cause engine free-wheeling (slight RPM increase)and sometimes a lurch when the shift finally occurs.
Or...
Does the transmission refuse to shift into a higher gear until you either speed up a lot or back off on the throttle?
If you have either of these conditions, ask your dealer to have a factory rep check out the car.
Did they give you any indication of how long it would take?
I don't have anything myself.
Suzanna
This site has been most helpful to me as I have tried to get back into automobile purchases after 14 years.
So let me see if I can help some of you folks. I don't know if this information will be helpful are not, but possibly it may.
I purchased a 2006 Hyundai Sonata I4 automatic transmission this mo. It is running fine. However Hyundai provides an on line service manual. In looking it over last night I ran into this important information. I am not suggesting this is the problem with the Camry transmissions you folks are talking about, but I thought it might be something you could look into. I hope this is some help to you all!!
I will copy the bulletin for you to see. I am sorry it lost the formatting in copying to this web site
Page 1 of 4
Technical Service
Bulletin
Subject
Group
Number
Date
Model
TRANSAXLE
06-40-005
MARCH, 2006
ALL
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE CONTROL MODULE -
RESET AND RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES
This bulletin supersedes TSB 05-40-004 to include additional models.
DESCRIPTION:
The PCM or TCM contains logic to adjust solenoid duty and line pressure as needed to
compensate for normal clutch wear over the life of the transaxle. This bulletin provides
the procedures necessary to reset (erase) and “relearn” the adaptive values in the
PCM/TCM.
After the following repairs have been completed, the PCM/TCM adaptive values must
be reset in order to provide optimum shift quality:
• Replace automatic transaxle
• Reprogram or swap PCM/TCM from another vehicle
Adaptive values must be reset using procedure #1 or #2 according to model and model
year (MY) as shown below.
I. RESET PCM/TCM ADAPTIVE VALUES
MODEL ENGINE
1.
DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
SECONDS
2.
USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
FOR 10 SECONDS
ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
ELANTRA 2.0L ~12/01/2002 12/01/2002~
TIBURON
2.0L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
2.7L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
SANTA FE
2.4L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
2.7L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
3.5L 2003~04 MY 2005 MY~
XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
XG350 3.5L 2002~04 MY 2005 MY~
TUCSON
2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
Page 2 of 4
HI-SCAN PROCEDURE:
1. Turn the Ignition key to the “ON” position (do not start engine) and move the shift
lever to “P”.
2. Attach the Hi-Scan Pro to the data link
connector (DLC):
• Select vehicle
• Select “AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE”
menu.
• Select “RESETTING ADAPTIVE
VALUES”, press “ENTER”
• Press “ENTER”, then “REST” (F1)
• Turn Ignition key “OFF” for 10
seconds.
1999~2005
Sonata
2.4L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
2.7L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
2006~
SONATA
2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
MODEL ENGINE
1.
DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
SECONDS
2.
USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
FOR 10 SECONDS
Page 3 of 4
Technical Service
Bulletin
Group
Number
II. RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES:
NOTE: After the adaptive values have been reset (erased), an “adaptive learning”
procedure must be completed as shown below.
3. Attach a Hi-Scan Pro or GDS and
select “Engine” menu, “Current Data”
menu and throttle position sensor in
volts (“THROTTLE POS. SENSOR”,
“ACCEL. POS. S”, or “ACCEL PEDAL
1 VOLT”, depending on model).
4. Drive the vehicle until the ATF
temperature is within the temperature
range shown on Page 3.
5. Request an assistant to monitor the Hi-
Scan while accelerating the vehicle at
small throttle openings (approximately 25-
30% throttle). Hold the accelerator pedal
steady at a throttle position sensor value
of 1.45~1.75v during several 1-2-3-4
upshifts. Repeat until normal gear
transitions occur.
6. Repeat this procedure for 4-3, 3-2 and 2-1
downshifts.
TPS Specification: 1.45~1.75v
TRANSAXLE
06-40-005
Page 4 of 4
NOTE: Adaptive learning does not occur below the ATF temperature range
shown below:
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Applicable warranty coverage applies
ATF TEMPERATURE: 122~194°F
(50~90°C)
50~122°F
(10~50°C)
MODEL ENGINE PRODUCTION DATE
ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
ELANTRA 2.0L ~11/21/2001 11/21/2001~
TIBURON
2.0L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
2.7L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
SANTA FE
2.4L 2001~02 MY 2003 MY~
2.7L ~01/17/2002 01/17/2002~
3.5L N/A 2003 MY~
XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
XG350 3.5L N/A 2002 MY~
TUCSON
2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
1999~2005
SONATA
2.4L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
2.7L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
2006~
SONATA
2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
Where is it located? On top of the dash in little dome by any chance?
Oh that!. Your car is just communicating with the Hyundai GPS Satellite. Now if it stops, take it into the dealer.
(Smile provided in DeepWater Blue)
Honestly though... that is the Alarm System LED. It blinks Red all the time, except when driving. Trust me on this!. Isn't that strange?.
Problem 1. Won't start (normally while cold). Car turns over but doesn't fire. Needs a little extra gas to fire. I changed the spark plugs and its marginally better. Should I change the wires now? Maybe the fuel filter? It seems to run good once started and isn't missing.
Problem 2. Power locks won't lock. The remote keyless or lock on door won't lock the doors, but they will open them. I have to manually lock them all and then the lock button arms the alarm. When I click the lock button I can hear a clicking sound. I have replaced the fuse already. Is this the actuator? Can I change this myself?
Thanks!
For the sake of security I paid to do an early oil change at the dealership. They replaced the oil and filter, but unfortunetely, the "problem" remains.
Should I be concerned any more, Ray?
Well, your engine's probably just fine, but keep an eye on it as long as you don't obsess to a breakdown. While I tend to take dealership presonnel statements with a grain of salt (having been burned a few times along the way to my dotage status), your dealer guy did demonstrate the same idiosyncrasy on other cars. In any event, remember - it's Hyundai's problem for the first 100,000 miles or ten years, right? (Hang on to your early oil service receipt and all subsequent service receipts, and the warranty claim invoice (if you got one) as proof down the road you were aware of something that seemed odd and made a good faith attempt at early resolution. CYA! )