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-Brian
ps. the car only has 55000 miles on it.
Henri
From what you said garnes, it defintely sounds like it could be the FPR seening how the electrical part of the engine is working fine.
the only problem is that now i seem to be having trouble with hard starts. seemingly THE one thing i didn't have a problem with before i took it in.
since it seems the universal solution in previous posts has been the FPR, is there something else that i could look to seeing as how i just had that replaced?
she doesn't have any problem cranking, it just seems like she's not getting the fuel she needs. any suggestions?
thanks all....
however I havent yet replaced the FPR. Probably this weekend. Can someone guide me to finding it?
Also I notice the the thing on top of the throttle body on my car is really bad and one the lines was lose and off. It has two lines, looks like there's suppose to be a third? Anyone have an idea on what it is? If I had a better digi cam I'd show you but all I got was a white flash.
from the time you open your hood, it will probably be closed in 1-2 minutes!
Three rebuilds later and with factory tech assistance, the factory finally sent new PCM, which fixed the problem.
The initial code was P0076, the rebuild units gave a code 0025-24x signal,other rebuild gave 0024-25 C set,third rebuild gave 0025-24x.
The tech was good and found the rebuilds were throwing bad codes and all three rebuilds were defective. The factory finally sent a new PCM and it fixed the problem. The dealer only charged based on original quote. $288 for PCM and installation. For some reason the factor rebuilds for the 1995 (at least on my car)don't work. Added benefit (this car has had PCM replaced 3 times previously)the cruse control works again. The factory techline case # for my problems is 6515074 if some has similar problem they might refer GM mechanic to this case number for reference.
My 95 only had 70,000 when I had the last PCM replacement. I have found that the GM dealer,especially aurora experienced can save considerable money in long run since these cars seem to have unique problems.
If any ones needs additional information they can contact me at drf89cpa@aol.com.
Don
PS I have friend that posted looking for good LA CA experienced aurora dealer tech. Please advise if anyone knows one.
I can't really tell which one it is yet, so I went ahead and picked up one of each. (they are around 15 bucks a piece). I will probably just change both...its a pretty involved process getting in there and once the engine is warm, neither of them make any noise, so to be on the safe side I'll change both. If you've noticed that huge engine mount bracket before, you'll know that it's a tight squeeze...should be interesting.
-Brian
Any of you guys figure out the starting problems? I still can't get over how mine any does it only after its warm-ed up and then sat for about 2 hours...
--Robert
Is it possible your rotors warped and are grabbing in one spot?
Well, I wasn't expecting such a big deal to change out two pulleys, but that Aurora is full of surprises. Sorry Henri, I know how you feel about pics in the P&S board. Let me first put up a picture of the 4.0 that I borrowed from RJS. I have highlighted the two pulleys that need replacement.
No big deal right? Wrong. If your engine is anything like mine (I'm not sure if this was changed post-95), then you have a this huge torque-axis mount bracket to the left side of the engine. Well, this bracket is bolted to the engine mount that lies just under the battery terminal they give you for jumpstarts.
Would you believe me if I said that you had to remove the engine mount to remove the pulley? And you have to remove this bracket? Some genius at Olds (probably someone from marketing subbing in on the assembly line), decided it would be a good idea to use these 5 inch bolts in both pulleys. I'm not joking when I say that there was at least an inch and a half of bolt inside the block..maybe two!
So, what this means to you and me is that you have to remove the engine mount to get the tensioner arm off of the engine, and there is no way to remove the idler pulley without either cutting the bolt and then threading it out, or lifting the entire engine out of the bay!! I'm not joking...maybe it's just my car...but we had to cut an inch and a half off of the bolt to get the idler out. That was after the bracket AND the engine mount came out. The bolt literally ran into the body an inch before it was threaded all the way out.
Here you can see the engine support set up. At this point we did not have the engine mount out, but were getting ready for it. Underneath the engine there is a jack also supporting the engine's weight.
So here is a pic from the side of the car. The engine mount is out, but you'll see that bracket still in. That's because the length of the bolt in the idler pulley prevented us from getiing the bracket out until we cut the bolt. After we cut the bolt, there was still plenty to run through the bracket when we put it back together.
And here is the payoff. The smallest pulley is the tensioner from the water pump assembly on the other side. I did that a few days ago. It was a five minute operation...you can see the shape it is in. After sitting on the table for a day, it refused to spin at all. It's interesting to note that this pulley made no noise at all, but when I was inspecting the engine to find out what was making noise (the tensioner and idler), I found this little guy. So I figured I'd change him out as well.
The next biggest is the tensioner pulley and the largest is the idler pulley. The tensioner was by far the worst of the two, but both needed to be replaced. Besides, when the car has 154,000 on it and you're that deep into the engine, you might as well replace a few things just to make sure you don't ever have to do it again.
Total Cost: $37.23 in parts.
Total Labor for my brother and I: 6 hours!!
What a trip. I still love her though.
and i think i may have gotten to the bottom of the hard starting. if i turn the key to on and then back off again a few times - without trying to crank the engine - she fires right up on the first crank. i've read that this almost certainly indicates a bad fuel pump check valve. its a valve that keeps the fuel pressure from leaking out when the car is not running. turning the key to on briefly runs the fuel pump. doing this a few times rebuilds the pressure it needs.
the only problem is that i can't seem to locate where this check valve is located, or even if its something easily replaced. i'm going to be switching out my fuel filter sometime this week and plan on really spending some quality time. maybe i'll know more then.
in the mean time running the fuel pump a few times like i mentioned avoids the embarrassing cranking.
if anyone knows how to replace that valve i'd sure appreciate the help.
Sheila
Henri
I'd try to find a place that can do a road-force balance, and see if that fixes it. I think there is a TSB (there is for the LeSabre and Bonnie) about it if you just can't get it balanced to fix it. But the fix is basically new suspension arms that have those large dampers welded on. It's a big weight thing that looks like a box stuck to the suspension, and it works counter to the wheel vibration. But it adds weight to the car, and specifically weight to the suspension pieces, so I personally would only do this as a very last resort.
I may be mistaken, but I think I am the first one to do this job to an Aurora on these boards...hasn't seemed too common.
You're right about it not being a common issue. I had to replace the tensioner pulley on my '95 back in July of this year. I did not replace the idler pulley like you did. I heard noises coming from that area, just like a solid rattling type sound. Mine did start gradually however, but it would mostly do it only in gear and at a complete stop. I'm guessing because the engine was turning so slow at that time?
I changed the one pulley and it solved the problem. It took me about 4 hours, I had to make a few special tools since it's so cramped in there!
Pete
2 - This was said a while back but I want to respond to it. I had noticed that I had constantly been leaving my car open this summer. I thought I locked it, but it would be unlocked when I got bacl to it. I wonder if I have been having the same car unlocking itself problem mentioned here. What was the fix?
I now have a 95 Classic without warranty coverage. Scary thought for this SHOP KING.
Henri
Thanks in advance guys.
Figured maybe the unit was bumped or something (I've only had "E34" errors when the door got accidentally slid open partways. Before I started home last night, I popped the trunk and checked the door. Not only was it closed, but, when I opened it, it normally removes the CD and ejects the cartridge. Well, it didn't even do that - just the light came on (so I know it's getting power). No noise, no nothing.
The "CDC" flashes on the radio now. I'm thinking the changer is toast. Has anyone else seen this failure? Time to make an appointment with the dealer. The extended warranty company (not Warranty Gold, thankfully) is going to love this...
--Robert
Fuel rail--$193
labor--$100( dont have expierience on fuel lines)
not too bad I guess.
I wonder if there is a chance you could use the NHTSA investigation (hammen2's post #4730 in Aurora) as a lever to have the work done gratis at a GM dealership.
Now I try to get in the car and the damned tilt is all the way down so I bruise my leg. Already aggravated beyond the boiling point I give the wheel a jerk and the whole assembly falls in my lap. One of the half-inch diameter steel pins in the tilt assembly is missing and the lack of support busted the housing on the opposite pin. My wife chews me out for breaking it. My daughters boyfreind, whose father was involved in this purchase, replaces the column with a junkyard and at least it seems to work except the wiper delay. I may have to drop it again. Finally I get to get in and start it. The leather is as hard as stiff plastic. Stained to hell and several small plastic items are either broken or damaged. I crank it and notice odd sounds from the engine. I start doing some searches and learn that a vented battery is required and when he disconnected the column he also removed the battery. I didn't remember a vent. Sure enough, and after finding the exploding stories because of battery gases I immediately bought battery and replaced missing vent tubing, $170. Also the new AC Delco battery must be slightly smaller and the vent kit doesn't fit as pictured. It could come loose and needs a recall safety complaint. Finally I drive and it handles and rides like a pig on ice. I notice the engine doesn't ever seem to heat up. I press my wife to get rid of it. Suddenly I put in the situation where I need to make a road trip and gamble on fixing up. After soaking the leather in leather cream for a week it begins to soften. I fix the remote which I discover had the battery holder broken loose, yet most functions don't seem to work. I flush engine with a trusted product and refill with part synthetic and Rislone to help finish the cleaning. I change tranny fluid and filters and use Dexron III also approved for Mercon V. I then discover the grease fittings. I flush cooling system and replace the missing thermostat. Refilled with Dexcool and have had very good success with it and an additive that stops cavitation, makes wetter, and protects. The plug wires look suspicious and I pull a plug. Cheapest Autolite, so I get me a set of the proper plug. In changing I discover another odd one on the right side and a cracked one and possibly one cross threaded and not seated. I manage to get the new ones in and properly reroute the wires. I discover someone changed the hose from the intake to the PCV plastic tube and it has been kinked off. Probably part of why the engine is so dirty inside. I'm reasonably satisfied that it has some life left so I hunt tires. I get a set of Khumo's which have very good reviews for this machine, and I'm satisfied, but will go back and have them align the weight spots with the valve stems. Braking had seemed pretty good and I took it up to 80 on an open stretch. Then I had a hard brake the following day. Even though the pads looked like new, there definitely was a problem as it didn't respond to sudden pedal. So I start on the brakes. There had been some indications of possible warpage, but I didn't expect to find loose bolts and a beveled rotor and lack of any lubrication on the slide points. Someone through in new pads and let it sail. I get to the back and they too appear to have at least 80% left, but some ape used channel locks to retract the piston. Both were heavily scored and a boot tore up. It had the original rotors never off the car as indicated by the keepers. Dropping one, the back side showed that it was heavily scored by rivets and never turned before putting in new pads. The front are turned and back replaced with after-market. System flushed. After 2200 road miles, I think its not braking properly. The rear rotors are still showing most of the machine marks from manufacture. So I get on the brakes hard enough to actuate anti-skid. The left front locks momentarily before the anti-skid activates and still suspect the rear are not working properly.. Any suggestions?????
Also when I started on the trip, I was concerned about oil usage and rolling from Savannah to Macon at 80 (~180 miles) it used a half quart. I topped off with Syntec and drove the remainder of the 1150 miles using about a half quart. On the return I added a half quart of Valvoline high-milage vehicle and finished the trip using almost no oil. The engine looks cleaner inside and suspect I need to change just for the deposit removal. I lost a small amount of coolant, which I smell outside the vehicle and will hunt its location as that smell makes me sick. (1/2 inch in reservoir). Since power steering fluid also looked objectionable, possibly too hot, I flushed it with Valvoline synthetic. Also noted at start of trip was a vibration which I initially attributed to balance. Very aggravating because it was most noticeable at 65-75 MPH. Car would be smooth again at 80. I now think it might be CV joints, probably the inner. Any experience with this?????
I had some jerk in a pickup that insisted upon being on my front bumper. After 50 miles of this idiot, I throttled up slightly and let it fly at 105 for several miles. Saw no more of him. Car handled better at this speed than any other. Was a bit noisy, sounding like the air moving across an aircraft skin. I also discovered some idiot did a hack wire job forcing the fans to be on all the time, including accessory position. Will need to pick up a seat tilt motor for the passenger as it is missing. The memory system for the driver only works seldom. The door locks on the front don't work, can hear motor actuate. Also I'
I liked the older computer systems from early 80's till about 95. You could short out a couple of pins and it would give you answers and sometimes even run self diagnotics including cylinder balance and performance. That's gone now that we have OBD II. To read simple codes you need a $100+ scanner and to get more deeply stored codes you need $300+ scanner and to get the full load of info you need a scanner in the thousands of dollars. This sucks, that I have to use some ripoff shop for minor stuff. But wait, it gets even worse. In those earlier models, something worked or you replaced it, including the computer or the chip. With these new ones on the EEPROM they can set it do different than the design. Ford and GM's argument is that if there is a design change the shops machine is given the update for your car via an uplink. But I learned via Ford mechanics that they can set it anyway they want locally. Simple example would be lets say you are tripping a service engine for over heat. Maybe the sensor is set at 230 for this and your car is under warranty. They program it to not trip until 250, until warranty is gone. They could even program it to get you back in the shop in a few weeks with a different concern than your original problem. Do You smell ripoff??
We as consumers will probably avoid taking the car in for service as long as possible if it seems to run OK because of the extreme cost. They could tinker with setting to pass emissions, yet overall it could be polluting badly because of high fuel consumption such as a HumVee. I've heard and seen where the service engine light bulb has been removed. Basically, there is no way of verifying what work has been done and if it is trully needed. This eliminates asking for the old parts that used to keep some honest. EPA and trade commission and consumer protection agencies need to get all over this.
UWMom- Sorry this is a late response, but from your description I would tell you to change your plugs and wires. I know, it may sound a bit weird, but I am interpreting your description of "grabby" as something a little different than everyone else.
About 2 or 3 months ago, my 95 started to do the same thing. I would never notice it when I was accelerating, just when I was coasting at around 40-55mph (by coasting, I mean keeping a constant speed, not decelerating). The car would actually jerk....no other way to describe it.
But the seat of the pants rarely lie, and it felt to me like the engine would momentarily stop producing power, then start up again...and the jerking felt to me like the engine would stop turning the transmission, then it would "jerk" into gear again. Hard to explain. It would literally do this almost once a second at times...very quickly.
There has been a lot of talk about only using AC Delco plugs and wires in the Aurora, and now I believe them. I had Delco wires in my car, but had Bosch plugs. The plugs were only about 3 months old at the time, but I figured I'd give it a shot (at 2.00 per plug, it's the cheapest fix around). Once changed, the problem went away overnight!
I may be incorrect, and you're problem may really be mechanical...but you should really check this out. A set of plugs and wires is a lot cheaper than new CV joints. Good luck!!
Maybe of even greater importance is the brake thing. Certainly the machine marks on the rear rotors should have disappeared after 2500 miles. They should have been broke in at 200. Anyone here familiar with this system?? Is there a special procedure for bleeding the system. Any known diagnostics other than relying on idiot light?
After thought, the brakes are of primary importance at this point. I used to say the brakes were the most important item. I've revised my opinion on that and now tires are number one. Reason being is that tires control direction as well as stopping. So if you've got crappy brakes, maybe you can still steer your way out of a situation. So brakes become a very close second. Yet I don't want to lose an engine.
Any thoughts here on recommeded fluids? I do love Rain-X washer fluids. And think synthetic products are fantastic, but hear that if you start using synthetic motor oil, you must stick with it. I did have a bad experience and didn't realize it until too late. I was using Mobil 5W30 and the motor recommendation was 10W30. I had some special ordered and switched at the next change. I noted that it looked more like regular oil while pouring. At 6000 I had used a quart. By 10000 I had used 2 1/4 quarts. When I bought another case, I realized something was wrong, it looked more like the 5W30. Calling Mobil I got them to admit that their regular and synthetic were bottled on the same line.
I'd suggest pulling the rear caliper, and then pressing the brake pedal. See if the piston even moves. If not, try opening the bleeder screw then pressing the pedal just to see if fluid reaches back there (maybe they squeaked or something so the previous owner decided to clamp the brake line as a "fix"...).
If you have fluid pressure, then maybe it's time to replace or rebuild the caliper. Perhaps the piston got compressed, ruining the parking-brake mechanism and preventing the piston from being able to move... All just guesses...
That's very odd that your Mobil 1 was really just regular oil. You sure it wasn't just that the color was darker? Mobil seems to have done that with the new SuperSyn anti-wear formulation of Mobil 1. I suspect the color is added intentionally as there was a lot of complaint about the clear oil. It is very very hard to see the clear stuff on a dipstick.
I've never used sythetic ATF, though I used sythetic gear oil in my Corvette's manual tranny. Synthetics are great, but if your car is burning fluids, they won't fix that (or are very unlikely to).
I hope you get your car running well. The Aurora is a great car, but it sounds like yours really got butchered...
P.S. Anyone wonder if recycled oil gets used again as things like motor oil? If so, I wonder if regular oils will start to be all awesome as they start to be composed of more recycled Mobil 1...
Had a bad experience in this area. Bought used car from dealer and word was it belonged to their fleet dealer manager's father-in-law who passed. Bought it no warranty but discovered it had a braking problem. I took it back and they worked on it. I took it to several shops and all said they couldn't find anything wrong. The rear would lock and through you into a sideways skid. It did it on my wife twice and me once. About a year later I was looking in a Chiltons for bleeding procedure on another vehicle and there in a picture was the answer. They showed the diverter valve pin hold out tool installed for proper bleeding. That car still had this tool installed from the factory and that explained the previous body work to the rear quarter panels.
Welcome; I think we on the Aurora boards will learn a lot from your nightmare.
Many of us have observed oil-pressure display showing 7 to 8psi at idle after full warm-up. According to the Olds service manual, minimum pressure is 5psi, so the warning will set at 4psi. Pressure this low was certainly cause for alarm in all the other cars I have owned. Someone explained months back that the Aurora's lubrication system is high-volume, low-pressure as opposed to the low-volume, high-pressure systems many of us grew up with. Therefore, the 8psi reading at idle is OK. I'm not sure I buy that yet. One of the things I want to do is replace the pressure sender to see if that makes a difference.
Oil pressure at cold start-up is over 60psi, maybe as high as 80 (I haven't paid any attention to that lately). Pressure at highway speeds after warm-up is 35 to 40psi. I use M1 10W30 in my 1997 classic with 105,000 miles.
Service manual states that excessive oil comsumption is more than 2 qts in 2000 miles. I've always been curious why it doesn't say "1 qt in 1000 miles." In 65,000 miles of driving, my '97 has averaged 1400 miles per quart, ranging from high of 1900 to low of 1100 miles per quart between oil and filter changes. There is no discerble pattern to the variation.
One of the big problems everyone experiences is reading the dipstick. I is nearly impossible to get accurate, repeatable readings. One possible cause is that the dipstick enters the oil surface at a very low angle (about 30 degrees). You can actually observe a higher reading on the bottom side compared to the lower reading on the upper side. So, I have taken to rotating the dipstick 360 degrees before pulling it for a reading. Also need to check level when the car is level, or at least in the same place evey time.
Back to consumption -- some Northstars have the same problem. There is a Cadillac Technical Service Bulletin that attributes the condition to stuck rings and gives a very detailed and extensive course of treatment. Has anyone ever tried it?
I'm thinking of trying Rislone engine treatment just before the next oil change to see if that will help reduce the oil compsumption. Anybody tried that?
For me the problem isn't so bad that I won't just continue to add oil (even M1). Although last week I saw white smoke out the back for the first time when I hit the throttle. I don't like for other drivers to see that.
Synthetics in the drain? That is a good one. They have been remanufacturing oil for many years. First thought would be just re-distill it and add the proper additives. But I have to wonder if some of the molecules break in use and if distilling alone will separate that. I've heard the synthetics are so good because the molecules are much longer at the start. Any Chemists Here? If I get a chance , I'll give a cousing a call. He used to job oil and always custom mixed his own with additives. Claimed what he was mixing would have cost $25 quart back then. He ran a lot of demolitian tracks and never blew a motor.
Do you know what the TSB says?