mg11--I had the same problem with my 97. The Olds dealer found the passenger side htg/ac control was not working properly. If the dial were in the middle, the Temp & HVAC didn't blink. If it were turned in one direction or the other it started blinking when the car was started. They replaced the switch and it has worked ever since. Before finding the problem with the passenger side switch they replaced the whole Temp/HVAC unit. All was covered under warranty. I hope this helps.
I just came from my local Oldsmobile dealer. The little window that flips up and down over the D.I.C. on my instrument console on my 95 Classic broke and I went to price a new one. They want $62.00 for that little piece of plastic. No way.
Does anyone know where I can order one for a reasonable price? I prefer not to go to get a used one as it probably would not last long either. It seems these Classics all have the same flaws.
Found my feature sticker inside the trunk on the inside fender behind the radio antenna. I have QQX code so I guess I have the Autobahn transaxle.
Did anyone ever find out how to replace light bulb that illuminates interior of center console?
If you mean the one that lights up the whole center console, that is a 194 bulb, the one the lights up the red shift marker is a, if I can remember a number 75 bulb.
Look back a bit on the post and you will find the instrucions on how to disassemble the whole center console.
The post is under Accessories and Modifications number 405;
To get inside of your center console you have to take everything out of your arm rest were you keep your spare change and CD's remove the screws inside there, a total of six.
Then you remove using a flathead screwdriver, the U-style pin behind the leather shifter, slow, then I mean very slowly remove upward the shifter, you don't want to yank it up real fast, it will pull apart the thin blue & black wire from the transmission button on the shifter.
Then take out 2 small screws using a phillips screwdriver in the ash tray, also remove the small ash tray, just pop it out.
By now you should have every screw out of the center console, including the leather shifter.
Now just pull up the center console exposing the goodies underneath the console, look for the lightbulb (size 194) unplug it, insert your 194 LED or incandescent bulb and your done.
Now just put everything back together.
Hope this helps, let me know.
Also if you have to replace the red light for the shifter, just look for the plug, remove the burned out bulb (really small bulb, smaller the a 194) size 73.
I have an engine surge at about 30 - 40 MPH It keeps setting the check engine light. The code is for the torque converter lockout solenoid. I have had the torque converter replaced, and the tranny re built with new solenoids. Then had the EGR replaced and ports cleaned I've also done a tune up with new wires and cleaned the throttle body. Cleaned all the electrical grounds I could find and searched for any vacuum leaks. I even had the a local GM dealer Tech. look at it. He scratched his head for a while but I shut him Off at $300+ which included the new EGR valve. I love the car and like a challenge but WOW. I'm stumped. Any good Ideas?
I tried Henry's suggestion of a little motor oil on release button first and it is now fixed. Thank you Henry and also Gisom for your suggestion. Back window fix is saved for this weekend. Need to research on how to remove back door panel and test for problem. The back window has had very little use. Don
I tried to do it myself and gave up. I ended up paying the dealer $50 to replace it with my part. I now have a small open end wrench stuck in my trunk lid.
Has anyone got any info on the chip manufacturers for lifting the speed limiters? (Jetchip, Superchip)or should I just keep searching for someone with an OBD II? I don't necessarily want to change the car too much, just the top speed. I'm sure the car can handle the increase, as long as the tires are properly rated, and I like the shift points as they are. Has Superchip or Jetchip proven to be better?
Hey guys long time no talk. A few simple questions. I have a very small radiator leak. It seems to come from the passenger size right by the radiator. I haven't had the chance to take off the front clip and find it but I suspect it is either a hose or maybe the draincock has come open slightly. Can anyone confirm this to be the location of the drain cock? Second, I've heard cooling systems will expell what they don't need. Is the location it expells and is this common in cold weather? I've noticed a few drops under my car after each night and after giving it some WOT last night I noticed a puddle. Roughly 1/2 cup of coolant beneath it. Any clues??
Second, Does anyone elses ISC motor rachet a few times after shutting off the car? Its not a throttle click like before the ISC just ratchets the throttle a few times. Is this normal??
buckdog- It sounds like the problem is your ISC motor and not your TPS. Is the device your talking about a round cylindrical motor that has a plunger at the end ? It pushes up against the throttle lever? If so it is the ISC not the TPS. If your not having any idle problems it probably just needs to be adjusted. The ratcheting you hear is the ISC trying to find the throttle lever to set itself up for the next start up. The end of the ISC has a hex head bolt on it that needs to be let out a little. Take a look at it and you will see what I mean. When adjusting it only move it one half of a turn atga time until the ratcheting stops. hope this helps. Oh by the way if you need a new ISC motor it isnt hard to replace and costs around $85.
The cooling system doesn't expel anything onto the ground intentionally. It does expel it into the overflow tank, but it can reclaim it from there when it needs extra. This is also why you shouldn't fill up the overflow tank all the way. Then excess coolant has nowhere to go. Sounds like you have a leak. Could be a hose or fitting or the draincock. I doubt we could say with certainty where it's from. You shouldn't need to remove the front of the car, though. You ought to be able to see where it is coming from by looking in the engine compartment and under the car.
My leak looks to be in the upper housing where the upper radiator hose connects. There is a strong ABS plastic that has hairline cracks in it. When I rev the engine I can see small amounts of seepage around 1500 RPM. I am thinking that as I drive more seeps out at higher RPMs and collects in the splash gaurd. By time I stop the car it is dripping out(I drive short trips). I'm think I may have caused the problem by not warming the car up a properly (getting in and taking off in 32 degrees). I guess I'm lucky that this is the only problem but you guys might want to check yours. If you do now you could temporarily patch it and buy yourselves some time. I went and got some of the bars stop leak and put it in as well as used some radiator patch and I think it might do the trick. It's still curing now so I guess we'll see.
That crap will circulate all through your engine's coolant passages and can clog them. I would strongly suggest you not use something like that.
I'd just try to tape it up or whatever as a temporary repair (that and keep an eye on the coolant level) until you can replace the radiator. Better to need a new radiator than a new engine...
This stuff is nasty. Any radiator repair shop will not recomend this because it will clog up the cores of your rad. BTW, its made from walnut shells. It should be used in emergencies only.
There is a hairline crack on the top-passanger side of my radiator. It is plastic. I was wondering what I could use on this part besides bars stop leak. I want to seal it from the outside(no tape)Thanks for the help.
I race R/C cars and we use CA glue, just go to a hobby shop and ask for CA glue. Its used to glue the rubber tires to the plastic rims. The cars go over 50mph and the small wheels spin at some ungodly high rpm. Its pretty hardy stuff.
The stuff I use, Zap-A-Gap, is used as filler for plastics.
Lrt51, have you looked into the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)? that was the problem with mine a year ago, autozone had them for like..ummmm $70 i think.
mg11, what year aurora do you have? domesticperformance . com sells chips for 95's for like $289, that does a bunch of stuff, or they can get a custom made one for obdII's sets your limiter to 255! i doubt even modded a aurora can do more than 150. thats about all a cadillac can do, but were probably more aerodynamic, less power, but modded we can be aboout the same. when i was dumber (yes even dumber than now...) i took the rora up to 139 before i had to slow down for a turn, never hit the governor.
Thanks for the info, I'll check out the website. I have a 97 Classic w/92,000 miles on it, non-Autobahn. I figure without doing super expensive work, making it breathe better (intake/exhaust)and top speed is about all you can do. I'm lucky that I haven't had a lot of the problems some folks have had, and I try to keep up regular maintenance. This week I am getting the power steering and water pumps replaced, cleaning the throttle body and injectors, and new oem plugs and wires. I got a great deal on some oem rims, and I'm going to try some Kumho tires. They test out equal to or better than a lot of more expensive brands, and I'll post again once I see if they turn out to actually be better.
I checked out the website, and sent the required info. I was wondering if you or anyone else out there (Garnes, javidogg, et al) would know if I could install an Autobahn equipped OBD II into my non-Autobahn Classic? What other modifications would need to be changed if at all? Has anyone out there done this? What else would it change besides top speed?
Well, I'd bet the PCM's are exactly the same on autobahn and non-autobahn Aurora's. It's the programming that is different. So I doubt you would need to bother buying a new PCM, rather you need to get yours programmed. If you wanted minimal impact, you should have it programmed with the program for a VIN of another 1997 with the same exact options plus the Autobahn. This should minimize the unintended consequences.
One thing you may experience is speedo inaccuracy. The Autobahn has a 3.71 axle ratio instead of your 3.48. Since all else is equal, you will be going faster at a given rpm than an Autobahn car. I'm not sure if the PCM computes this, or if the input speed sensor on the tranny would send out the already-adjusted value based most likely on the tranny output shafts (the output would turn the same speed for a given road speed on both autobahn and non-autobahn cars, though the engines would be at different speeds).
You also would need V-rated tires if you plan on exploiting the higher limit... Keep in mind that speed ratings on a tire depend on the load. An H-rated tire on the front of the classic is probably not good for the typical 139 or so that the H-rating indicates.
Thanks for the heads up.! Makes perfect sense to me. My intention was to acquire a second ECM and program one with domestic performance's program and keep my original in case things didn't work out well. Then I figured why not just use an Autobahn ECM, rather than spend on a reprogram. I will speak to the Olds/Caddy folks and see exactly what things would be affected. Maybe I can even get one of them to do the reprogram for less than domestic is asking for it. I really don't mind the 3:48, and as you pointed out, I'd actually get more bang for the buck on higher end RPM's with it. I'm hoping it'll all go smoothly, I hate tinkering and experimenting. As for tires, I'd been a longtime Eagle GA user, then I found Continentals felt better without sacrificing performance. They were quieter too! I'm anxious to try some Kuhmo tires, and of course V rated. Question: do you think the 2002 is the best edition of the "new" Auroras? I intend to get a second one by next spring/summer. I was leaning toward another Classic (99 Autobahn), but in case I went for the new version, I wasn't sure of which year to consider. I read the 2001's weren't generally felt to be as good as the 02's. Comments, anyone??
i don't get how the 3.48 would be better from a role, the 3.71's keep the rpms's higher and the higher the rpms the more power dohc cars make. i would think that the top speed would be lower with 3.71's, but ive easily done 140 in my autobahn, are gearing is probobably good for 170 anyways, and the power isn't close to there for that kinda speed. id bet unlimited i could do 150
I meant at top speed-, you are right, the 3:71 would be a bit faster from the jump, rolling or standing. The 3:48 might have a little more engine left to work with once the limiter was lifted.
for the last month my radio reception has been pretty bad. stations that used to come in perfect are now only usually good, sometimes fuzzy. stations that used to be ok/good come in usually horrible. the problem started when a month ago my amp burned out, so i was taking it out to send it in for repairs, and i hooked up all my speakers to run off the deck instead.
I figured i unplugged the radio antenna or it was loose somewere. but i took it all apart to put in a new dash kit (the NEW metra aurora kit works 10x better than the old metra kit, this ones about 95% accurate vs the old 40% accurate!), and everything is/was plugged in good, i even unplugged it all and replugged it back in...anyone know whats going on?
i was thinking of buying one of those "reception boosters" anyone try one of those?
I want to see if any one in here in the boards, can take a picture of their Aurora, were the U style pin is located under the dash, to disable the Day Time Running Lights from my 1999 Aurora.
I will be doing adding something real soon, so I want to get familiarized on how to disable the DRL's.
I'm a little late on this one; I had the same leak in the same place on my 95. Replaced the radiator under Warrentybynet. As for the Bars leak/coolant tablets, I was told by the Olds/Caddy dealer that when they flush a coolant system, the package of tablets is included in the 'flush package' that I guess they get at their parts counter--- I bought a pack of these GM, crushed walnut shell tablets from my wholesale parts connection at the Chevy dealer to give to my tech buddy at the Olds/Caddy dealer which is when I was told that the parts guy already throws it in the box along with the coolant, etc. The tablets help fill in the casting flaws/porosity(?) of the aluminum block (which plagued the early 4.1 Caddy V8s). They were mandatory up until the last few years of the Northstar. Don't know why the dealer stopped requiring them on the newer Northstars.
The coolant tabs? I thought GM had a specific one for the cars that require it. The fact that the dealer may use something else similar doesn't mean it's the way to do it. Also, if your car requires it, then it is already in the coolant. Adding more because your radiator is cracked does not seem like a good idea to me. If you need a new radiator, get a new radiator.
I replaced my fadiator when it leaked in the place that has been described. I decided to get the GM radiator rather than an aftermarket. The postings on this board about problems with aftermarket convinced me to go GM. I plan on keeping my car until it or I die. So I thought it better to go with what I know works. (Because I want to keep the car is also the reason I will not put in an aftermarket chip, but that is a discussion on another Aurora thread.) -----Henri
its wierd...now that i got my amp back from repairs (acutally just got a new one). i hooked my rca's back up and the radio reception is good again....oh well it works, im happy.
if you JUST want to get rid of your speed limiter, for a 95 you could get the chip and keep everything the same, except that part. just email him and talk to him, he'll custom make you one. it would still cost you $289 though.
It is amazing how we all have the same problems. I really like these cars it just stinks that GM didn't put out some recalls to save us the trouble. Oh well I guess thats the pain we live with, 'least we got eachother.
Anyway stop leak went in. Didn't get the message in time. Everything seems okay, I have heard of stop leak causing some stink in the heater core. I don't know about in the engine. I sealed it from the outside using a radiator compound. I found it at a department store next to all the rubber sealants. It is a black and white puddy stick that you mush together and push into the crack. After about 10 or 20 minutes it hardens rock hard and sets in a total of 3 hours. It seems to be a pretty good temporary fix. I've noticed minimal leaking since but I guess this depends on how often you drive and how hard you are on the car.... I'll get the name of the puddy I used and post it here...
I used some Bars Stop Leak Heavy Duty on the inside.
The leaking isn't totally fixed but has reduced significantly since. I made the fix about 10 days ago, haven't had the front clip off since so I don't know how well it's working now. I'll try to get time to look at it this weekend and post some pictures of how well its holding up.
argh....looks like im starting to come to that time, were stuff stops working
so i notice that NONE of the switches on the driver side door work, the ones on the strip with door unlock, lock, lumbar etc. seat tilt works fine, window work fine. but all that stuff works on the passanger door.........but the window control doesn't work on any door except the drivers (yes ive checked to make sure the window lock is off). is this stuff controled by a fuse? i figured if it was, all the lock/unlock would be on 1 fuse, so it doesn't make sense for 1/2 not to work...
this is a common problem in all older cars. cut the rubber harness going from the drivers door to the car. It has a bunch of wires in it. it is likely that some have finally broken. get in there and splice them back together the best you can.
Well, it seems the gremlins are back. My wife's 2001 4.0 is stalling out when driving down the road. It happens in the 40MPH range when warm. It starts right back up with no problem. The car is still under warranty so it will go to the dealer. I was wondering if anyone had a similar problem. I have seen fuel pressure regs and other posts. My sense is that it's probably caused by the ecm identifying some component problem. Any thoughts?
No idea. But isn't there a similar crankshaft position sensor problem on Intrigues that causes behavior like that? I have seen some TSB for earlier new 'Roaras about replacing the crank sensor. Just a thought...
You know, you're probably on to something. I had to perform a crank sensor relearn just after I got the car. Recently, it has started to "jump" at start-up. That was the preliminary issue with the crank sensor. Sounds like a good place to start. I'll make sure I mention it to the dealer.
New member here and have been looking over the post about this problem. You guys are great with your feedbacks. I having a engine misfire, and not at all times. I can start the car and it instantly runs rough,shut it off and re start and runs fine. Replaced plugs and fuel filter but ses light will still blink on occasions. Took car to a mechanic and ran computer scan test and found PO300 random misfire code. He said he doesn't know how to approach this job since readings on scanner were erratic. He also said this is not the original computer for the car and computer needs to be sent to a gm dealer to down load proper settings. Computer shows 28,000 and car mileage shows 107,000.I bought this car used with no history and have driven about 28,000 on it with no problems. Could the computer have been replaced with a generic before I bought it. He wants to replace the computer before he can trouble shoot. Never heard of such a thing. Going to replace plug wires this weekend with ac delco. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
To those of you who have replaced the front struts. In my 1996 repair manual it never mentions using a spring compressor when replacing the struts. Can I do the job without one? I know I can rent one for free at Autozone, but if i can do without i will. Thanks for any info.
That "u style pin" (aka DRL resitor) is in the engine compartment on the driver's side fender (I think just behind or above the airbox). I did mine a while ago and that's where I remember it. I'd be cautious calling it a "pin". It's a couple inches long...but it is "U" shaped and you simply unplug the wiring harness from it. That's it....good luck
Comments
Does anyone know where I can order one for a reasonable price? I prefer not to go to get a used one as it probably would not last long either. It seems these Classics all have the same flaws.
Found my feature sticker inside the trunk on the inside fender behind the radio antenna. I have QQX code so I guess I have the Autobahn transaxle.
Did anyone ever find out how to replace light bulb that illuminates interior of center console?
Look back a bit on the post and you will find the instrucions on how to disassemble the whole center console.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
To get inside of your center console you have to take everything out of your arm rest were you keep your spare change and CD's remove the screws inside there, a total of six.
Then you remove using a flathead screwdriver, the U-style pin behind the leather shifter, slow, then I mean very slowly remove upward the shifter, you don't want to yank it up real fast, it will pull apart the thin blue & black wire from the transmission button on the shifter.
Then take out 2 small screws using a phillips screwdriver in the ash tray, also remove the small ash tray, just pop it out.
By now you should have every screw out of the center console, including the leather shifter.
Now just pull up the center console exposing the goodies underneath the console, look for the lightbulb (size 194) unplug it, insert your 194 LED or incandescent bulb and your done.
Now just put everything back together.
Hope this helps, let me know.
Also if you have to replace the red light for the shifter, just look for the plug, remove the burned out bulb (really small bulb, smaller the a 194) size 73.
Peace.
I even had the a local GM dealer Tech. look at it. He scratched his head for a while but I shut him Off at $300+ which included the new EGR valve. I love the car and like a challenge but WOW. I'm stumped. Any good Ideas?
Thank you Henry and also Gisom for your suggestion.
Back window fix is saved for this weekend. Need to research on how to remove back door panel and test for problem. The back window has had very little use.
Don
Thanks,
Steve
Second, Does anyone elses ISC motor rachet a few times after shutting off the car? Its not a throttle click like before the ISC just ratchets the throttle a few times. Is this normal??
Thanks guys
I'd just try to tape it up or whatever as a temporary repair (that and keep an eye on the coolant level) until you can replace the radiator. Better to need a new radiator than a new engine...
The stuff I use, Zap-A-Gap, is used as filler for plastics.
mg11, what year aurora do you have? domesticperformance . com sells chips for 95's for like $289, that does a bunch of stuff, or they can get a custom made one for obdII's sets your limiter to 255! i doubt even modded a aurora can do more than 150. thats about all a cadillac can do, but were probably more aerodynamic, less power, but modded we can be aboout the same. when i was dumber (yes even dumber than now...) i took the rora up to 139 before i had to slow down for a turn, never hit the governor.
One thing you may experience is speedo inaccuracy. The Autobahn has a 3.71 axle ratio instead of your 3.48. Since all else is equal, you will be going faster at a given rpm than an Autobahn car. I'm not sure if the PCM computes this, or if the input speed sensor on the tranny would send out the already-adjusted value based most likely on the tranny output shafts (the output would turn the same speed for a given road speed on both autobahn and non-autobahn cars, though the engines would be at different speeds).
You also would need V-rated tires if you plan on exploiting the higher limit... Keep in mind that speed ratings on a tire depend on the load. An H-rated tire on the front of the classic is probably not good for the typical 139 or so that the H-rating indicates.
I figured i unplugged the radio antenna or it was loose somewere. but i took it all apart to put in a new dash kit (the NEW metra aurora kit works 10x better than the old metra kit, this ones about 95% accurate vs the old 40% accurate!), and everything is/was plugged in good, i even unplugged it all and replugged it back in...anyone know whats going on?
i was thinking of buying one of those "reception boosters" anyone try one of those?
I want to see if any one in here in the boards, can take a picture of their Aurora, were the U style pin is located under the dash, to disable the Day Time Running Lights from my 1999 Aurora.
I will be doing adding something real soon, so I want to get familiarized on how to disable the DRL's.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Peace.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Just my opinion, though.
if you JUST want to get rid of your speed limiter, for a 95 you could get the chip and keep everything the same, except that part. just email him and talk to him, he'll custom make you one. it would still cost you $289 though.
Anyway stop leak went in. Didn't get the message in time. Everything seems okay, I have heard of stop leak causing some stink in the heater core. I don't know about in the engine. I sealed it from the outside using a radiator compound. I found it at a department store next to all the rubber sealants. It is a black and white puddy stick that you mush together and push into the crack. After about 10 or 20 minutes it hardens rock hard and sets in a total of 3 hours. It seems to be a pretty good temporary fix. I've noticed minimal leaking since but I guess this depends on how often you drive and how hard you are on the car.... I'll get the name of the puddy I used and post it here...
http://www.digiclipse.com/images/radiatorfix.jpg
I used some Bars Stop Leak Heavy Duty on the inside.
The leaking isn't totally fixed but has reduced significantly since. I made the fix about 10 days ago, haven't had the front clip off since so I don't know how well it's working now. I'll try to get time to look at it this weekend and post some pictures of how well its holding up.
so i notice that NONE of the switches on the driver side door work, the ones on the strip with door unlock, lock, lumbar etc. seat tilt works fine, window work fine. but all that stuff works on the passanger door.........but the window control doesn't work on any door except the drivers (yes ive checked to make sure the window lock is off). is this stuff controled by a fuse? i figured if it was, all the lock/unlock would be on 1 fuse, so it doesn't make sense for 1/2 not to work...
help!
thanks
Thanks John
Any help on this is greatly appreciated.
Peace.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Thanks
And like "W" dont want none.
Thanks anyway.
Javs.
I having a engine misfire,
and not at all times. I can start the car and it instantly runs rough,shut it off and re start and runs fine. Replaced plugs and fuel filter but ses light will still blink on occasions. Took car to a mechanic and ran computer scan test and found PO300 random misfire code. He said he doesn't know how to approach this job since readings on scanner were erratic. He also said this is not the original computer for the car and computer needs to be sent to a gm dealer to down load proper settings. Computer shows 28,000 and car mileage shows 107,000.I bought this car used with no history and have driven about 28,000 on it with no problems. Could the computer have been replaced with a generic before I bought it. He wants to replace the computer before he can trouble shoot. Never heard of such a thing. Going to replace plug wires this weekend with ac delco. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Greg