about 2 weeks ago I was pulling to the stop light and my car just dies on me . I tried to start it up and it seemed like it was starving for fuel . I parked it and left it alone . yesterday i tried to start it and it acted like it didnt want to start . I popped the hood while it was half a@@ running and noticed the idle control arm was going crazy so I unplugged and tried to start it again.nothing. I plugged it back in and had my wife try to start it while I listened and watched . I told her to floor it a couple of times. I let it run and whala it all of a sudden worked fine. I dont get it .
Its nice to know that you remembered that ...the problem is when I was about to take it to the shop to find out . the other problem happened and I could not get it to the dealer.I am just wondering if I had air in the fuel line or something or some debri in the fuel line and when I floored it a couple of good times It fixed it but I dont know . I have to get it to the dealer and have them run diag.I hope that my radiator is just filthy that way I only have to flush it
It sounds like it could be the EGR valve. Mine went bad on my '95 and it reacted the same way. It did kick the CHECK ENGINE light on. It would not let my car idle. Once I got it started and was in a position to floor the accelerator I did and it seemed to go away for a short period of time. Even when going at highway speeds when the EGR valve acted up it affected the way it ran. I had a new one put on, it wasn't covered by my warranty. I don't think they are particularly had to install. I hope this helps.
I'd agree, the EGR valve is very easy to change out. I got mine from a chevy dealer in town for about 150 bucks. Had the old one out and the new one installed in about 10 minutes. Make sure to clean the old gasket off really well...to ensure a good surface for the new one.
By the way, you'll probably get a little note with the EGR telling you to clean out the carbon deposits before you install the new unit or the built up carbon may cause the new EGR to fault. I am not in agreement with this philosophy, and I may be in the minority here, but trying to scrape that carbon off never seems effective. And IMO, having little carbon "chips" floating around my engine isn't much better than having sand in there. So, whenever I change an EGR, I swap it right out....no cleaning. I hate leaving it dirty in there, but I don't believe anyone in their driveway can do a quality job of cleaning it. Just my opinion, thought I'd share...anyone feel the same way...or differently?
Good luck and I hope that the EGR solves it for you...it's an easy fix.
I agree with you stickking1. But how can we clean the erg area? Is there a machine or something that the mechanic has to clean it out? Im sure that it would improve our rides because the Northstars do create a lot of carbon. If anyone knows how to clean the EGR(not the valve) please let us know.
How important is spark plug gap and what effects can it have on performance. I have been having a little hesitation when I stomp on the pedal. I have new plugs, wires, coils(all AC Delco) and I dont think its fuel related. I know when I put the plugs in they were gapped pretty close out of the box. So I didnt spend too much time gapping them. I didnt do a slop job or anything ,but I could have been more precise. Can this be the problem since the wires and coils are all new and shouldnt be damaged yet. the hesitation isnt from a dead stop ,but when im going about 30 or higher and put the foot down its like the car has to take a deep breath and then it takes off like a rocket. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also is the gap .50 or .60. Ive always went with .50.
The gapping definetely has a lot to do with it, you really should've checked the gapping on those plugs, I've never bought a set of plugs and found'em to be all the same gapping or even the correct gapping, you really should've taken the extra 2 minutes to regapp all 8 before u installed'em. Also if the wires aren't seated all the way and tight,, you will experience the hesitation. Mine did that after I installed new plug wires. I discoverd 2 loose wires ( the sleeve that goes in the head not the coil), 1 in the front and 1 in the back so I just pushed'em in, the one in the back was a [non-permissible content removed] to push in as the engine was hot. the same 2 wires still come loose every now and then so I just pull over and push'em in. if your car wasn't hesitationg until u changed those plugs then the gapping needs to be adjusted. What sucks now is that u may only have 1 or 2 that need gappping but you won't know until u check'em all.good luck and let us know how u do.
yes the EGR valve is the black round can . It has a harness that plugs into the top of it. You cant miss it.
I did gap all the plugs, but all I had was one of those crappy round sliding things. Someone told me those werent very acurate so I was wondering if the gaps werent all consistent if it would cause a problem. I think Im going to get some new plugs and a real gapper and try them again. I just cant think of anything else that could be causing my hesitation. Ill let you guys know what happens.
as far as the engine idle problem . I am not concerned right now . I am concerned with the overheating, I dropped it off last night to the dealer and I am having them diagnose the problem and check for codes. 72.50 will tell me the degree of problems I have. I am thinking it is the water pump .I have no symptoms of a blown head gasket but I am curious . how much does it cost to replace the water pump- has anyone done this on their own?
I've been reading comments about how our baby northstars produce lots of carbon. I had to get a smog test a couple of months ago, California regulations for registration renewals, and I almost failed for high hydrocarbons at idle speed. I think the limit was 60 ppm and mine tested 59. The car has 48K miles on it. Doesn't burn any oil.
I suspected that it was time to change plugs and wires so I did that but haven't had it re-tested. You think I might have a lower level of HC's now? Or do you suspect the EGR valve or some other device might be causing this problem? Maybe it's just the nature of these motors?
alright fellow aurorians . bad news have a seat with me . the overheating problem turned out to be my worst nightmare. I blew the head gasket and warped the heads. I had coolant and oil mixing...need new engine and transmission. no warranty ..I am sorry to say but it looks as if I will not be driving my love anymore.this should definately be made into a tv movie like shakespear or something....do you guys think that I should part it out?
seth-- I just had a water pump put on my '95 last week at the Olds dealer. They charged my warranty company $165.00 (water pump and gasket $82.00, labor $83.00 for 1.1hr of labor). I just got back from a 300 mile trip, it works great. I hope this is of some help.
Sad news man I feel for you. Parting it out would probably get you the most for it, but the engine and tranny are probably the most valuable things so that screws you too. Maybe you should look for a used engine yourself? Im sure you can find one around $1500-$2000. Why do you need a new tranny also?
Is there anything that happened to cause your blown gasket that we should know of? So we dont have the same problem.
That really does suck. Yours is only the second blown head gasket I've heard of on these boards.
The used engine may be a possibility. Someone on the GMforums board (the guy with the other blown gasket) found a used engine and had it installed by a friend's shop for about $1500. He seems to be pretty content with it.
I had a used engine put in a Q45 I owned once and was very happy with it (although it cost quite a bit more than that since the Infiniti dealer did it).
It boils down to how bad you want to keep the car. I don't remember what year your car is so I don't know if the resale would justify putting a lot of $$ in it, but if you want to keep the car I can tell you used (not rebuilt) engines are relatively inexpensive and aren't a bad way to go.
Seth, let us know what caused the head gasket to blow if you ever find out. I wonder if the water pump went first or if u ran low on coolant, or if the fans stopped working? That explains why your car was overheating so bad. Bad news bro, I agree with the other guys, used motor is the way to go if u want to keep it, but figure out your losses. you're probably better off with another used Aurora, good luck and keep us posted.( O yea And why does the Transmission need to be replaced?)
Seth, let us know what caused the head gasket to blow if you ever find out. I wonder if the water pump went first or if u ran low on coolant, or if the fans stopped working? That explains why your car was overheating so bad. Bad news bro, I agree with the other guys, used motor is the way to go if u want to keep it, but figure out your losses. you're probably better off with another used Aurora, good luck and keep us posted.( O yea And why does the Transmission need to be replaced?)
Sorry to hear that bro, your better off with a trade in on another used Aurora. That explains your over heating problem, I wonder what caused it to blow, I wonder if the water pump went bad first(is that small belt still on it, not the serpentine belt, the water pump has its own belt), or if u ran low on coolant or if the fans stopped working. I agree with the other guys, get a used motor if u want to keep it, but why does the tranny need to be replaced?
the tranny has some internal damage .the fans never stopped working. the water pump belt is fine. dont know what exactly caused it. car has 104000 miles and I loved her dearly . I just cannot afford to spend anymore money . I owe 6400 left because of a bad mistake of refinancing.I figure if I could part the car out . I have a thousand dollars to put towards the negative equity. so we will see what happens . I have another beater car that I will have to use for now. I am starting school in 2 weeks and If I didnt just spend 6 thousand dollars on tuition I would have a problem fixing the aurora but at this point I just need to move on and I hate that I have to cause i love this damn car too much .
If you decide to keep the car, I suggest you go to www.engineinstallation.com and see if they can help.
My nephew needed a 3.1L V6 for his '95 Grand Am. American Engines installed it and do a turnkey job for 2 to 3K. The engines are Remanufactured not rebuilt From the factory, big difference. All new internal parts. Blocks and cranks are x-rayed for flaws. New heads on all motors with all new valve assy. The shopping around method for a used engine ($2500) alone in our part of the world was about the same price as American Engines would do the whole job for, install and give a 3yr/36K warranty with it. They also have checked out pre owned engines for sale and you can get a warranty. Also had discount coupons in yellow pages. This may not work for you but you should at least look into it. They take everything apart and look at it and rebuild or replace any other parts that are bad. I followed every step of my nephew's engine and got all of the replaced parts back and agreed with all of the recommended decisions about the engine. I know this sounds like a commercial but it is a true experience I went thru 60 days ago. Your old engine and heads are shipped back to the factory and examined to see if they are able to be used again. If not, you have a core charge.
Sorry to hear the bad news... Best of Luck to you, Steve
For the 2+ years Ive owned my 95 it has always ran at around 190 under any type of driving conditions, hot or cold. This summer it seems to go up to 240-250 in traffic. As long as Im moving it stays at the 190 mark. I had a new water pump and thermostat and coolant flush less than a year ago. This was done when it was still cold outside so I didnt notice the temp climbing until it got hot. Now Im getting a bit concerned that I have a problem on the horizon. Could the mechanic have put a faulty water pump or thermostat in? Or is this a sign that my radiator might have a problem? I know the Northstars run hot , but since mine never did before I am scared. Or could it be that my previous thermostat was faulty and now its working the way it should? Also is ther any way to specificaly check each cooling component? Oh my fans work fine. Come on at around 225.
Does anyone have a classic that always runs at 190 no matter what the temp is like mine used to?
My '95 NEVER runs below 200 once it gets warmed up. In the 90+ degree and humidity in traffic it may hit 230 or so, but usually runs in the 210 to 220 range + or -.
I have a manual switch on both my '95 and '97 so I can turn on the cooling fan when I see the temp. gauge starting to climb. The switches are connected to the high speed side of the cooling fan. I had a auto mechanic that specializes in electrical repair do the work for me. He had to research the wiring specs. before he started. It has given me a lot of satisfaction knowing I can control the engine temperature. My car normally runs 200 deg. on the highway and a little higher in town. When it hits the first mark above 200 I turn on the cooling fan. Once the fans are turned on the temp. comes back to normal(200 deg), depending on the outside temp.
I guess my car is normal now. Sounds like it was abnormal when it was always around 200 no matter what since everyone seems to run over 200 in heat. Maybe I just never noticed it high before.
I would appreciate it if people would keep posting there running temps.
Mine runs at about what everyone else is experiencing. I once by-passed the fan on a Turbo engine that I had on a Pontiac so it would always be on as long as the engine is running. It even ran for a few minutes after I shut off the engine, I did that because the temp was climbing too high before the fan kicked in so I didn't want to deal with it anymore and felt better about having the fan on constantly. However I've always wondered if I should do the same with my 95 Aurora with 97,000 miles. I was told by the dealer that the car has to reach that high temperature for it to run right and burn fuel correctly. It kind of makes sense since everything in that car is computer controlled. What I'm trying to say is that the computer may be looking for a certain temperature to run the engine correctly especially when it's cold at first, however since we're controlling those fans manually, then the computer is always looking for that correct temp which will never be found, causing the computer or the sensors to work harder, posibly causing problems in the long run. This is just what I think which may or may not be true, I would like to hear the opinion of a certified mechanic in this post on this subject instead of just an opinion. I mean after all you'd think that the folks building the Northstar would've recognized the high temp and corrected it unless it must run this hot for it to run correctly which is why I believe that the temp should be left alone as there's a purpose for it to be this high.
August out here in southern California is brutal. Days on end of 100 plus degrees. Yesterday afternoon the outside temp was 108. I had the AC blasting and my engine never went above 210. On cooler days it hovers about 200.
A few weeks back I had a real shock....It went almost into the red zone! The fans were running on max but there wasn't much air being drawn in thru the radiator. I shut the motor off immediately and was sort of freaking out. It turned out to be a plastic shopping bag had been sucked up and was covering almost the entire front surface of the radiator. That happened again last weekend but as soon as I noticed the temp climb above 210. I got out and checked to see if there was debris in there again....sure enough, another damn bag.
Henri, do tell about the "red light on the roof". Ya got me curious!
the red light on the roof thing is best explained by the guys that discussed it. They are still on the boards and can fill you in. It has something to do with the remote controls (e.g., the garage).
Early Auroras had a three-channel transmitter for controlling older design garage door openers; this transmitter is located in the roof "console" with the reading lamps. Sometime during the '97 model run, the transmitter was upgraded to operate newer openers with Homelink rolling code technology (Sears Craftsman name is Secure+). Some of the literature says that the LED indicator for the new design is yellow. However, the one I bought on eBay is red (like the older style) and does operate my opener. I think the key identifier (rather than red LED vs. yellow) is that there is a Homelink logo (outline of a house) surrounding the LED.
When I start my '95 Aurora, the instrument panel (tach, speed, temp, fuel)does not come online immediately, but rather after about 30 seconds of the car running.
Anyone encountered this? It just started in the last 2 days.
I encountered a similar problem with my 95' but worse. It might be the early stages of your problem. Anyway, mine would do was 2 things and it was very intermittent. 1.) You would go to start it and turn the key on, and nothing. No instrument lights, won't turn over nothing. But Radio and a few other things would still work.
2.) While driving for no apparent reason it would just die! Then it would immediately start again most of the time. I forgot to mention, when it won't start it may take up to 15 minutes at a time before it would start.
After a lot of trouble shooting I found that it was the ignition wiring harness. Your instrument panel DOES NOT boot up, it is a physical electrical connection from the moment you turn on the key. They have a poor design in the ignition switch, they running way to much current through some contact point style switch. They should have used a heavy relay for this.
But if the condition gets works, like a non-starting condition or other. I'll bet this is your problem. The contact points get a carbon build up on them from arcing ever time the car is started. If you would like I have some wiring schematic for this I could send you. Hope this helps...
Guys, thanks for bringing up this problem, I have a 95 and I never knew that this was a problem, Geez another problem to worry about, well at least you know what's causing it, considering all the electrical nightmare with that car, thanks for bringing it up
Its not that difficult to fix, if that's indeed what it is. I've seen on other post where the dealer couln't even fix this problem since its so intermeittent. The harness/ignition switch costs about $160.00 dollars. Let me know how it turns out...
I have a 1995 Aurora. Its developed the leaky oil pan syndrome. Anyone else had this? If so what were the steps taken to repair. I've heard 2 versions. But I guess the 95's were notorious for this? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Actually I never seen where it was leaking from. All I did was clean the outside of the pan with degreaser (Dawn). I didnt take anything apart. For some reason the oil doesnt seem to be coming back. Maybe the leak is so slow it takes 9 years in order to see the oil on the pan. You might have a worse problem , but maybe the leak isnt as bad as you think it is. It is just a lot of acumulation maybe.
Yes, mine sounds worse. It will drip on the floor. Cleaning definately won't make it go away. I had a subscription to alldata and it had a Service bulletin about one of the bolts letting oil leak by or something goofy...
Speaking of oil leaks....I bought my '98 a couple of years ago from the dealer. It was a lease return, and came with a year of factory warranty left. Before signing the papers I took it to my mechanic for a full examination.
Before he even put it up on the lift he said "and now we'll see if it's leaking oil yet. At 30k miles it shouldn't be but beware, these engines usually leak oil all over the place as they age." Well, what I saw was shocking. There were drops of fresh oil all around the perimeter of the oil pan. It was leaking from somewhere up above the pan, running down the engine block too. The mechanic told me to take it back and hand the dealer the keys. It would run a couple of grand to repair.
Well, the dealer told me that they had done a full inspection and that the oil leak was not noticed. They promised to fully repair it AFTER I bought it. Finally I got that promise in writing then signed the papers.
After a solid week in the shop, undergoing the replacement of numerous gaskets and seals and something they called an oil baffle, they managed to fix it.
A year later, just a week before the factory warranty was to expire, it started dripping again. Another 4 days back at the dealer and another couple of gaskets and oil baffle, she's fixed. Did I buy the extended warranty? Sure did. It's been a year since the last leak repair.
The only gasket they didn't replace was the oil pan.
I haven't seen anyone post that they own a '98 model. Plenty of '95's and '97's though. Was 1998 a more reliable year?
OIL LEAKS FROM OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE #67-61-07 - (01/31/1996) SUBJECT: OIL LEAKS FROM OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE ATTACHING BOLTS (CLEAN BOLT/APPLY SEALANT)
MODELS: 1993 CADILLAC ALLANTE 1994-96 CADILLAC CONCOURS, DEVILLE, ELDORADO, SEVILLE 1995-96 OLDSMOBILE AURORA WITH 4.0L AND 4.6L ENGINE (VINS 9, Y, C-RPOS L37, LD8, L47)
CONDITION:
SOME ENGINES MAY EXHIBIT ENGINE OIL LEAKS SOURCED AT OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE ATTACHING BOLTS AND BOLTS ATTACHING THE BRACE BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE AND ENGINE OIL PAN.
CAUSE:
THIS CONDITION MAY BE CAUSED BY POROSITY IN THE LOWER CRANKCASE AREA NEAR THE OIL PAN BOLT THREADS. THIS TYPE OF LEAK WOULD SHOW OIL LEAKING AT OR NEAR THE HEAD OF THE FASTENER AFFECTED.
CORRECTION:
TO CORRECT POROSITY LEAKS IN THESE AREAS, USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE BOLT WHICH IS LEAKING. 2. THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE BOLT HOLE WITH BRAKE CLEAN OR SUITABLE EQUIVALENT CLEANER. 3. THOROUGHLY BLOW OUT BOLT HOLE WITH SHOP AIR (20 PSIG MAXIMUM PRESSURE). 4. THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE BOLT WITH BRAKE CLEANER OR SUITABLE EQUIVALENT CLEANER. 5. APPLY A MODERATE AMOUNT OF LOCTITE(R), P/N 12345382 (BLUE SERVICE REMOVABLE) THREADLOCKER/SEALANT TO BOLT. 6. INSTALL BOLT AND TORQUE TO 9.5 N.M (85 LB IN).
ENGINES PREVIOUSLY RETURNED THROUGH THE ENGINE EXCHANGE PROGRAM FOR THIS TYPE OF LEAK SHOULD INSTEAD BE REPAIRED USING THIS PROCEDURE.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE:
LABOR OPERATION DESCRIPTION LABOR TIME
T2485 LEAK, OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE 0.4 ATTACHING BOLT-REPAIR
ADD TO RESEAL EACH ADDITIONAL (2) BOLTS 0.1 NOTE: TOTAL ADD TIME NOT TO EXCEED 0.6 OF AN HOUR.
FIGURES: 0 ATTACHMENTS: 0
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.
COPYRIGHT 1996. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Guys my 95 Aurora has been running a little hot too. Right after I got the car I replaced the water pump and belt. I noticed that while in slow traffic the car would reach 220-225. Sometimes after getting off a faster highway and the idling it could get as high as 235. This is where it starts to bother me as the redzone seems to start around 240-245. On the highway and on state routes it seems to stay between 200 and 210. This doesn't bother me much. I had it to the point that I would avoid idling all together. Last night I pulled the thermostat. It seems to be running considerably cooler. I've heard a couple of rumors that no thermostat can cause issues like coolant flowing to fast or bad gas milage. I thought about leaving it out till winter as it has been about 80-90 degrees around here lately. The car still seems to warm up pretty average. It gets to about 180 and stays there. Sometimes it might touch 200-205 after some idling. I've had good gas milage so far. What other trouble do you think I might expect with my experiment? Do you think running with just the thermostat housing (to slow down the coolant) would help? Can thermostats stick? This one still opens when you boil it....No leaks. Fans work. No cracks or obstructions in air dam.
The early northstars, including the '95 and '96 auroras, apparently have a horizontally split engine block. I've been told that if you were to look at the engine/transaxle out of the car, "it would appear that there was a 3-4 inch spacer between the engine and transaxle". And, of course, there is a gasket of some type between the pieces.
The bad news for us '95 and '96 owners is that the gasket between the "split" eventually begins leaking and losing oil pressure. I think the bulletin above (thanks ericmf) addresses the early stages of the problem. Unfortunately, once the leak gets bad enough - as mine has - I'm told the only real way to fix it is to pull the engine and ...I don't want to know what else.
I've been told $2000 to $2500 to fix it and I have really been dragging my feet about it. I'll probably have to take the plunge next month some time when I can better budget it.
BUT, the bulletin above offers me some hope. Maybe....
As far as the thermostat issue, I'm no mechanic but I agree with an earlier post that these engines are designed to run at a particular temperature (higher than usual) and that it would probably do more harm than good to run it outside the design parameters. I've had mine in Florida heat for 2 1/2 years where it normally runs over 210 and sometimes as high as 220 - 230 with no apparent problems. I wouldn't consider pulling the thermostat or forcing on the fans to lower the temp from what is normal for these engines.
I have a '98, and had to have my engine dropped in March to fix the "rear crankshaft seal" issue which larryfl describes above.
From what my dealer tells me, this is pretty common on ALL classic Auroras (they look for signs of oil leakage at every oil change - another reason to take the car to the dealer). I've heard this is a general NorthStar issue, but haven't verified this on caddyinfo.com (too busy).
My repair was predominantly paid for by my extended warranty, but I did have to pay some out of pocket. I think the total cost (me + warranty company) were over $1700, though I also had a water pump replaced (the original reason for bringing the car in)...
This is a very common problem with all early Northstar models. It is discussed quite heavily and in great detail on caddyinfo.com. The truth is that the leak itself will not cause you any drivability problems. It is not a pressurized leak it is just a seepage. The only real problem it causes is oil all over the place. You actually can drive as long as you like with this problem if you can deal with the oil mess which will get worse over time. So if you dont want to spend $2000 to fix it just wash your engine from time to time. And make sure to check your oil. Although these engines take 7.5 quarts of oil they can run perfectly on as litle as 5 quarts so dont worry too much about running on too little oil. I didnt make this stuff up it is the words of A GM engineer on caddyinfo.com that helped design the Northstar and knows them inside out.
Personally I am not to worried about the leak, other than I don't like a oily garage floor. I will pull the motor and fix this myself before I let the dealer get me for that kind of money. I know I can do it, but its not worth it at this point...
If your getting oil on the floor it is probably just an oil pan leak or oil line. Because with the case half leak you normally wont see anything on the floor. You will just have a messy engine compartment and below.
Robert, How hard would it be to add in a GM 12 CD changer to our 2002 Aurora? Are the wires already run? How would it interface with the factory Premuim Bose system? Just thought you might have researched this at one time.
I'm not really a big music listener, and I've always thought trunk changers would be a pain if you had to load up the trunk. That said, I did snoop around there at one point out of curiosity. There is some sort of connector there that is in the vicinity of where the changer would mount (driver's side top corner of the trunk if memory serves).
I tried to look it up in the manuals, but the info wasn't clear and I was only looking out of curiosity.
You could take a look in your trunk for a connector like that. Also, the manual shows sketches of the various connectors. Look in the radio part and see if you can see what the changer connector looks like. If the connector in your trunk looks the same then you might be in luck.
I believe the head unit is already capable of handling the changer. Most of the newer GM radios can control a GM changer. Hopefully it will be an easy addition for you. Keep us in the loop.
Comments
By the way, you'll probably get a little note with the EGR telling you to clean out the carbon deposits before you install the new unit or the built up carbon may cause the new EGR to fault. I am not in agreement with this philosophy, and I may be in the minority here, but trying to scrape that carbon off never seems effective. And IMO, having little carbon "chips" floating around my engine isn't much better than having sand in there. So, whenever I change an EGR, I swap it right out....no cleaning. I hate leaving it dirty in there, but I don't believe anyone in their driveway can do a quality job of cleaning it. Just my opinion, thought I'd share...anyone feel the same way...or differently?
Good luck and I hope that the EGR solves it for you...it's an easy fix.
-Brian
http://members.cardomain.com/kayaman420
http://members.cardomain.com/kayaman420
I did gap all the plugs, but all I had was one of those crappy round sliding things. Someone told me those werent very acurate so I was wondering if the gaps werent all consistent if it would cause a problem. I think Im going to get some new plugs and a real gapper and try them again. I just cant think of anything else that could be causing my hesitation. Ill let you guys know what happens.
I suspected that it was time to change plugs and wires so I did that but haven't had it re-tested. You think I might have a lower level of HC's now? Or do you suspect the EGR valve or some other device might be causing this problem? Maybe it's just the nature of these motors?
Marshall
Is there anything that happened to cause your blown gasket that we should know of? So we dont have the same problem.
The used engine may be a possibility. Someone on the GMforums board (the guy with the other blown gasket) found a used engine and had it installed by a friend's shop for about $1500. He seems to be pretty content with it.
I had a used engine put in a Q45 I owned once and was very happy with it (although it cost quite a bit more than that since the Infiniti dealer did it).
It boils down to how bad you want to keep the car. I don't remember what year your car is so I don't know if the resale would justify putting a lot of $$ in it, but if you want to keep the car I can tell you used (not rebuilt) engines are relatively inexpensive and aren't a bad way to go.
Good Luck to you.
My nephew needed a 3.1L V6 for his '95 Grand Am. American Engines installed it and do a turnkey job for 2 to 3K. The engines are Remanufactured not rebuilt From the factory, big difference. All new internal parts. Blocks and cranks are x-rayed for flaws. New heads on all motors with all new valve assy. The shopping around method for a used engine ($2500) alone in our part of the world was about the same price as American Engines would do the whole job for, install and give a 3yr/36K warranty with it. They also have checked out pre owned engines for sale and you can get a warranty. Also had discount coupons in yellow pages. This may not work for you but you should at least look into it. They take everything apart and look at it and rebuild or replace any other parts that are bad. I followed every step of my nephew's engine and got all of the replaced parts back and agreed with all of the recommended decisions about the engine. I know this sounds like a commercial but it is a true experience I went thru 60 days ago. Your old engine and heads are shipped back to the factory and examined to see if they are able to be used again. If not, you have a core charge.
Sorry to hear the bad news...
Best of Luck to you,
Steve
You might want to look at these folks. They say they will go up to 99,999 miles on a 1995 or newer car.
Henri
Does anyone have a classic that always runs at 190 no matter what the temp is like mine used to?
I would appreciate it if people would keep posting there running temps.
In Newark, NJ with POWER. Let there continue to be light.
Henri
A few weeks back I had a real shock....It went almost into the red zone! The fans were running on max but there wasn't much air being drawn in thru the radiator. I shut the motor off immediately and was sort of freaking out. It turned out to be a plastic shopping bag had been sucked up and was covering almost the entire front surface of the radiator. That happened again last weekend but as soon as I noticed the temp climb above 210. I got out and checked to see if there was debris in there again....sure enough, another damn bag.
Henri, do tell about the "red light on the roof". Ya got me curious!
Marshall
Thanks for the introduction.
Early Auroras had a three-channel transmitter for controlling older design garage door openers; this transmitter is located in the roof "console" with the reading lamps. Sometime during the '97 model run, the transmitter was upgraded to operate newer openers with Homelink rolling code technology (Sears Craftsman name is Secure+). Some of the literature says that the LED indicator for the new design is yellow. However, the one I bought on eBay is red (like the older style) and does operate my opener. I think the key identifier (rather than red LED vs. yellow) is that there is a Homelink logo (outline of a house) surrounding the LED.
Hope this helps.
Anyone encountered this? It just started in the last 2 days.
Thanks,
Pete
2.) While driving for no apparent reason it would just die! Then it would immediately start again most of the time. I forgot to mention, when it won't start it may take up to 15 minutes at a time before it would start.
After a lot of trouble shooting I found that it was the ignition wiring harness. Your instrument panel DOES NOT boot up, it is a physical electrical connection from the moment you turn on the key. They have a poor design in the ignition switch, they running way to much current through some contact point style switch. They should have used a heavy relay for this.
But if the condition gets works, like a non-starting condition or other. I'll bet this is your problem. The contact points get a carbon build up on them from arcing ever time the car is started. If you would like I have some wiring schematic for this I could send you. Hope this helps...
Before he even put it up on the lift he said "and now we'll see if it's leaking oil yet. At 30k miles it shouldn't be but beware, these engines usually leak oil all over the place as they age." Well, what I saw was shocking. There were drops of fresh oil all around the perimeter of the oil pan. It was leaking from somewhere up above the pan, running down the engine block too. The mechanic told me to take it back and hand the dealer the keys. It would run a couple of grand to repair.
Well, the dealer told me that they had done a full inspection and that the oil leak was not noticed. They promised to fully repair it AFTER I bought it. Finally I got that promise in writing then signed the papers.
After a solid week in the shop, undergoing the replacement of numerous gaskets and seals and something they called an oil baffle, they managed to fix it.
A year later, just a week before the factory warranty was to expire, it started dripping again. Another 4 days back at the dealer and another couple of gaskets and oil baffle, she's fixed. Did I buy the extended warranty? Sure did. It's been a year since the last leak repair.
The only gasket they didn't replace was the oil pan.
I haven't seen anyone post that they own a '98 model. Plenty of '95's and '97's though. Was 1998 a more reliable year?
OIL LEAKS FROM OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE #67-61-07 - (01/31/1996)
SUBJECT: OIL LEAKS FROM OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE ATTACHING BOLTS (CLEAN BOLT/APPLY SEALANT)
MODELS: 1993 CADILLAC ALLANTE 1994-96 CADILLAC CONCOURS, DEVILLE, ELDORADO, SEVILLE 1995-96 OLDSMOBILE AURORA WITH 4.0L AND 4.6L ENGINE (VINS 9, Y, C-RPOS L37, LD8, L47)
CONDITION:
SOME ENGINES MAY EXHIBIT ENGINE OIL LEAKS SOURCED AT OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE ATTACHING BOLTS AND BOLTS ATTACHING THE BRACE BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE AND ENGINE OIL PAN.
CAUSE:
THIS CONDITION MAY BE CAUSED BY POROSITY IN THE LOWER CRANKCASE AREA NEAR THE OIL PAN BOLT THREADS. THIS TYPE OF LEAK WOULD SHOW OIL LEAKING AT OR NEAR THE HEAD OF THE FASTENER AFFECTED.
CORRECTION:
TO CORRECT POROSITY LEAKS IN THESE AREAS, USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE BOLT WHICH IS LEAKING. 2. THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE BOLT HOLE WITH BRAKE CLEAN OR SUITABLE EQUIVALENT CLEANER. 3. THOROUGHLY BLOW OUT BOLT HOLE WITH SHOP AIR (20 PSIG MAXIMUM PRESSURE). 4. THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE BOLT WITH BRAKE CLEANER OR SUITABLE EQUIVALENT CLEANER. 5. APPLY A MODERATE AMOUNT OF LOCTITE(R), P/N 12345382 (BLUE SERVICE REMOVABLE) THREADLOCKER/SEALANT TO BOLT. 6. INSTALL BOLT AND TORQUE TO 9.5 N.M (85 LB IN).
ENGINES PREVIOUSLY RETURNED THROUGH THE ENGINE EXCHANGE PROGRAM FOR THIS TYPE OF LEAK SHOULD INSTEAD BE REPAIRED USING THIS PROCEDURE.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE:
LABOR OPERATION DESCRIPTION LABOR TIME
T2485 LEAK, OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE 0.4 ATTACHING BOLT-REPAIR
ADD TO RESEAL EACH ADDITIONAL (2) BOLTS 0.1 NOTE: TOTAL ADD TIME NOT TO EXCEED 0.6 OF AN HOUR.
FIGURES: 0 ATTACHMENTS: 0
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.
COPYRIGHT 1996. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
The bad news for us '95 and '96 owners is that the gasket between the "split" eventually begins leaking and losing oil pressure. I think the bulletin above (thanks ericmf) addresses the early stages of the problem. Unfortunately, once the leak gets bad enough - as mine has - I'm told the only real way to fix it is to pull the engine and ...I don't want to know what else.
I've been told $2000 to $2500 to fix it and I have really been dragging my feet about it. I'll probably have to take the plunge next month some time when I can better budget it.
BUT, the bulletin above offers me some hope. Maybe....
As far as the thermostat issue, I'm no mechanic but I agree with an earlier post that these engines are designed to run at a particular temperature (higher than usual) and that it would probably do more harm than good to run it outside the design parameters. I've had mine in Florida heat for 2 1/2 years where it normally runs over 210 and sometimes as high as 220 - 230 with no apparent problems. I wouldn't consider pulling the thermostat or forcing on the fans to lower the temp from what is normal for these engines.
my 2cents.
From what my dealer tells me, this is pretty common on ALL classic Auroras (they look for signs of oil leakage at every oil change - another reason to take the car to the dealer). I've heard this is a general NorthStar issue, but haven't verified this on caddyinfo.com (too busy).
My repair was predominantly paid for by my extended warranty, but I did have to pay some out of pocket. I think the total cost (me + warranty company) were over $1700, though I also had a water pump replaced (the original reason for bringing the car in)...
--Robert
How hard would it be to add in a GM 12 CD changer to our 2002 Aurora? Are the wires already run? How would it interface with the factory Premuim Bose system? Just thought you might have researched this at one time.
Thanks,
Steve
I tried to look it up in the manuals, but the info wasn't clear and I was only looking out of curiosity.
You could take a look in your trunk for a connector like that. Also, the manual shows sketches of the various connectors. Look in the radio part and see if you can see what the changer connector looks like. If the connector in your trunk looks the same then you might be in luck.
I believe the head unit is already capable of handling the changer. Most of the newer GM radios can control a GM changer. Hopefully it will be an easy addition for you. Keep us in the loop.
Bob