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I just mentioned changing the lock because it only takes two seconds to do and it would suck if one day that remote release doesnt work for some crazy reason and you cant get in your trunk. It is so easy to change that it just makes sense to do it.
Looking for an opinion here: I have had a recurring problem with the "Traction Off" light coming on and staying on during normal driving. I noticed last winter that on slippery sufaces it made my brakes nearly useless because the ABS would come on for a second or two then disengage, only to come back on and quit every few seconds. (NOT the usual ABS "pulse" -- definately a malfunction)
This condition usually lasts for a few weeks before going away. It will then come back after a month or two.
According to the dealer, it's a sensor of some sort in the ABS system and can be fixed to the tune of $900.
Now, I have been driving for 20 years without ABS and Traction Control so I'm wondering what all your opinion is on just pulling the fuse for the ABS. I have no problem going "old school" and reverting back to threshold braking when necessary.
Anyway -- pulling the fuse: Good Idea or Bad Idea?
Regards,
Jim
The car sat for 2 years before I started to drive it again and it has 114,500 miles on it.
The problem is that after adriving the car for a little bit the service engin soon light comes on. If the car is then turned-off, it will not start again until it cools down.
Any thoughts on what it might be.
And for those wondering about it, I paid $100.00 for the car.
Henri
2) What do the Fords and Chrylers say?
For the check engine light, find out the code. No offense but why do people post "why did the light come on?" I mean, it will tell you exactly why it came on (though not necessarily exactly what to fix). You'd find a lot more out by reading the code than from us guessing.
Thanks also for the timely reply -- I'm dropping the car of at my mechaninc on Monday, so maybe I'll have him do the bearings too.
Jim
You might try entering "transmission" in the search this discussion box. It will bring up all previously posted messages in this discussion concerning the transmission.
Or, I'm sure one of the Aurora owners will be along soon. There are quite a few here who are very knowledgeable.
Ditto on my experience. I have the same thumping going into reverse, but none while coasting to a stop. Happens mostly when the car is cold, and it doesn't do it enough for me to warrant a new PCM.
Hey Kayaman, check out my post coming up next....I just want to give you a heads up before your Aurora starts. Does anyone rememeber the GI Joe cartoon? (if you watched it, or had kids) Remember the twins that felt eachother's pain? Tomaz & Zamot...that's what we should call our cars. Now, which one do you want to be Kayaman? :-)
-Brian
Regarding the window switch I do believe all the windows do run off of that. I just recenctly read a post where a guy fixed that exact same problem by replacing the driver door switch. (bet you could get one for $10 bucks at a salvage yard.) I read it on the gmforums.com site. You should check it out if you havent yet.
I actually have not had one electrical problem yet on this car except blown bulbs. Everything that should light up does. And all switches work perfectly. Im sure not for long since I said that.
kayaman-Good memory, they did have scars on their faces...One of them had it on the left side of their face and the other, on the right...can't remember which was which though.
However, I got the car home and just parked it. Acording to previous posts, it the shift solenoid at the bottom of the transmission. I hope this is not expensive. From what I hear my warranty gold coverage is useless.
Henri.
-Brian
-Brian
I hear a lot about the tranny thumping in reverse. Mine does this occasionally just as I start the engine while still in park. In fact, the car slightly jerks forwards when it thumps and only does this when it's cold. Could I also have solenoid problems? I've got 47k miles on it.
I replaced the plugs and wires on Saturday. Without your helpful tips and gapping advice, I'd have been out there for several hours. Mine is missing the under hood sticker the defines the gap. My dealer said 60 thousandths. I checked the gaps on all the old plugs and they were 50 thousandths. I gapped at 50. One old plug was 75 thousandths! The slight missing is gone.
Did I do the right thing?
One last question, should I have put an anti-seize compound on the new plug threads? The old ones were almost impossible to remove.
Marshall
The solenoid problems that you have been reading so much about lately is entirely different from the "slamming" into reverse also mentioned. I get the hard shift into reverse occasionally, and have found that shifting to drive, then going to reverse to back out of my parking spot virtually ended this problem for me (if you've ever driven stick, you might be familiar with this process already). Or with a little forethought, I would just back into my spot, as my car only shifted hard in the morning when cold.
You will know when you have solenoid problems, that's a whole different beast. Basically, one of the two solenoids in the trans go bad...I think I can safely say that everyone that has had problems, had it with the shift solenoid "A". These two guys control fluid passage through the valve body and when one goes bad, the Aurora's computer takes over and forces the car into 2nd gear, and only 2nd gear (When the car is in 2nd, the solenoids are not active)...At least, that's how I understand it to work. This is just the computer protecting the tranny, and allows you to limp home. Not a difficult fix, but it's a little scary if it happens to you while entering the highway, right guys? I usually don't hit redline in my Aurora, but when you're going 70mph and she drops to 2nd....WOW!
And last, I never put anti-seize on the plugs, but I change them once a year religiously...so I don't have much of a problem with getting them out. I try to be extra careful working with that aluminum block, make sure that the plugs thread correctly, and don't force them too much...don't want to strip it out.
You can always tell when I'm at work..my messages get very long-winded! Nothing to do but type :-)
I dont think anyone has ever had the thump in reverse thing totally figured out. I know some people who have fixed it by replacing the PCM ,but usually you have other problems if it is the PCM. i just have the tranny thump in reverse when its cold ,but I have no other problems so Im not changing the PCM yet. One tip is if you let your car warm up really good before you shift into gear on a cold day it wont thump either.
Welcome Aboard
Yup. I agree w/ ramou. The 95's air pump for the load leveling system makes a lot more noise than the '96 and aboves. I own a 95 and hear the same noise occasionally. It will happen whether the key's on or not. It's just the car leveling itself.
My question: Is it just my car or are all Auroras the same?
Ramou- If your car requires v rated tires you have the autobahn. That way it is safe to go 130MPH. Just see if you can get your car over 108 or 112 (cant remember).
http://members/cardomain.com/kayaman420
http://members/cardomain.com/kayaman420
My '95 @ 100K+ is still tighter than my '97 with 59K. It runs better and has less problems. Both have the QQX(Autobahn) option. I do have a problem when I turn the corner in the '95 a screeching noise appears. I had the rear cradle bushings replaced about 2 months ago, that helped but didn't cure it. Next week I take it in to see if the front cradle bushings are bad or what could be causing the screeching noise.
To all of you that write in I really enjoy reading your comments. I read all the comments but seldom write in.
If anyone knows all the option codes or where I can obtain them I would appreciate getting the information. I thought there was a post sometime back showing a list of them. Thanks.
"Find out when and where your Aurora was made". let me know if you have any questions, thanks.
For example maybe 4 Aurora owners are having problems with their Transmission and it just happened that all 4 Auroras were built the same month or year and at the same plant. So all you need for this is the 1st, 2nd, and 11th positions on your VIN. Also the manufacture date should be on your driver door in month/year format.
Position 1:NATION OF ORIGIN
1= USA
2= CANADA
3= MEXICO
4= USA
J= JAPAN(FOR OTHER GENERAL MOTORS CARS)
Position #2: MANUFACTURER
C= GM OF CANADA/SUZUKI
G= GENERAL MOTORS
G= SUZUKI
Y= NUMMI
8= SUZUKI
L= DAEWOO
Position 11: ASSEMBLY PLANT
B= LANSING MICHIGAN
C= LANSING MICHIGAN"B"
G= DORAVILLE GEORGIA
F= FAIRFAX KANSAS
H= FLINT MICHIGANM= LANSING MICHIGAN"A"
R= ARLINGTON TEXAS
S= RAMOS ARIZPE MEXICO
U= HAMTRAMCK MICHIGAN
Y= WILMINGTON DELAWARE
Z= SPRING HILL TENNESSEE
1= OSHAWA #2 ONTARIO CANADA
2= STE THERESE QUEBEC CANADA
4= ORION MICHIGAN
5= BOWLING GREEN KENTUCKY
6= OKLAHOMA CITY OKLAHOMA
6= INGERSOLL ONTARIO CANADA
7= LORDSTOWN OHIO
9= OSHAWA#1 ONTARIO CANADA.
YOU MAY WANT TO POST YOUR RESPONSE WITH THE MONTH, YEAR AND MANUFACTURED LOCATION AND PLANT THEN LIST YOUR COMMON PROBLEM. HOPEFULLY THIS HELPS OUT AND LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS.
This may have changed (I think it did once, and early Aurora powertrain bits came from somewhere else) but the engines were made in Livonia while the tranny is made in Ypsilanti
My '97 is also squeak and rattle free -- unlike other vehicles I have owned as the miles piled up. Another reason for the quietness is that many (most?) interior dashboard, console, etc. pieces are secured by cap screws threaded into matching tapped metal sleeves. As opposed to self-tapping screws threaded into plastic bosses that loosen or completely break away after a few years.
An interesting, different perspective! I along with several other contributors to this discussion have modified the intake and/or exhaust of our Auroras to increase the sound level and performance. I never considered quiet to be a virtue for my cars. Obnoxiously loud is a different story. I would not say that my Aurora's engine sounds rough at any time; it's the smoothest running engine I have ever driven.
You are right about suspension and tires. Given your 28 000 miles, I assume your Aurora still has its original tires. What are they? Suspension changes were made in '97 -- called the FE2 sport suspension. I have never been able to determine if the '97s actually handled any better than the '95s and '96s. Some guys have replaced struts and shocks with better aftermarker versions like KYB, Koni and Monroe.
Did someone not post a website for inexpensive GM parts??
Henri
If you want a quieter engine, I'll bet finding an airbox from a 96 or newer classic will make a noticeable difference. A new one from the dealer will be about $135. Try a junk yard first - but they are hard to find.