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Comments
seth042280:
Maybe you don't have it quite fully charged?
Thanks
Also I mentioned that my antenna was not going all the way down when I turn off the car.
The dealer Technician was like, well I oiled and cleaned it up with WD40 and it worked fine, but by the time they had brought the car to me, it had stopped working, so they were like, "ah will just order you a new one".
They ordered the parts for me so I will be going back tomorrow on Thursday (5.22) to get them installed.
All covered under GM Warranty.
I'll post tomorrow to see how it went.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
We apologize for the inconvenience.
Now it's all fixed and also the antenna was replaced with a new chrome one,
Thanks to the good old GM Warranty.
Peace.
Guesses??
I am hoping its just a sensor.
Steve
I have a question, though. You ended up adding 12 quarts to the tranny? I'm at work so I can't consult the service manual, but isn't that about how much you can drain by removing the bottom pan? If you took the pan off, you could also change the filter and there is no worry of starving the tranny pump of fluid. That's would be my biggest worry of using the tranny to pump it out.
Back when I was a college student who lived at the dorms, I helped a friend change the oil on his truck. It was high off the ground, so there was plenty of clearance. He just put a gallon milk jug and funnel under the car and I pulled the plug out. We sat and watched as the jug started to fill up. Once it was about 3/4 of the way full and the oil was still flying out, we started to get concerned. Of course, there was nothing we could do with our concern as all we brought out to the parking lot was one jug, a funnel, and a wrench... Needless to say the parking lot was eventually covered with a giant oil pool about 5 feet wide. We filled his truck up (why we didn't equate the number of quarts needed to go into the truck with the number that would come out is beyond me) and headed to the grocery store to get some cat litter to soak it up...
Any answers??
As far as starving the pump,at idle it is not a fast stream. I FIRST put in 2 quarts of new fluid, then I start the process. At idle I count to 20 or 30, shut off car and put in 3 quarts so it is never really low. If you can get a spouse to start and stop engine, all that much better.
I would guess that something odd happened electronically. If you've changed the oil and tranny fluid recently, I'd just reset the intervals and hope that fixes it. Then just change the oil at 3,000 since the monitor won't be right. You can check the levels just to be sure, but they shouldn't affect the change message. But really, I have no idea why the heck your car did that, Henri.
As to why the car did the other thing with the DIC?
Nobody knows. I just reset the DIC for oil and tranny fluid.
Oh, and rjs200240, the Shop King accepts your apology. <lol>
I don't know what all you touched in the process, and I don't know all the components of your celica. About all I can think of is that with rpm troubles on somebody's Aurora, I think it was associated with the throttle positioning unit/sensor. It's a small attachment to the throttle body. Also, when taking it off (certainly when putting a different one on) you had to "calibrate" the throttle position sensor as well. Maybe that is thrown off as a result of taking it off.
If you were pulling air from around a manifold that was not sealed or seated correctly, maybe that could screw with the air intake and thus the throttle. It seems like it would have to be a big leak though. I'm sure somebody else knows a lot more than I do here.
Otherwise all I can think of is a computer glitch.
If so, can you tell me how to get to it?
Thanks for the great site. I am new your site and have been looking hard to find a site specific to Aurora's.
The history includes records from date sold new. I purchased at end of my partner's lease.
12,808 miles (2-29-96) seal, lower crankcase replaced.
34,603 miles (11-25-97) diagnose electrical problems-replace radio.
44,513 miles (8-19-98) diagnose electrical problems, replace alternator controller, PCM/VCM (computers)
49,098 miles (12-30-98) diagnose electrical problems, again replace alternator (alternator is causing computers to fail?)
63,420 miles (3-1-2000)- I purchase at end of my partner's lease and he leased new Aurora-dealer never advise him the electrical problems would be reoccurring. Dealer performed major 60,000 service and indicated the care was fine.
65,777 miles (7-9-2001) The car backfired while wife was crossing busy intersection and was not very responsive (it also started missing). I was just able to get to local garage Not Dealer) next to intersection to try to at least get repair it enough to drive. I had no idea it would require major repair since it had only been 2,357 since it had a complete major 60,000-mile dealer service.
The repairs ($2,480) included the ignition module, ECM (computer), Electrical brake control module (ABS system)traction control light was coming on when it should not, and alternator. The diagnostic showed the alternator malfunction was damaging the above components(only found by attaching test equipment and driving-alternator would through spike periodically. This is the third alternator in 21,264 miles (and second EMC ).
Now 6-8-03 sitting at dealer-transmission was slamming into reverse-dealer found ECM(PCM?) was causing problem-replaced with delco re built (4 different ones) fixed transmission shift problem but each giving same trouble code-computer they replaced did not give that problem code (I don't have that code). GM factory techs are having new computer sent to see if that fixes.
My wife mainly drives this car and is not hard on it. It has always been serviced as recommended and always by dealer except one time mentioned above.
In my initial search I found similar electrical complaints at fedeal government web site-Office
of Defective Investigation (NHTSA), but have not found an actual fix from anyone.
It seams to me that there is something in the design that causes the alternators to through spikes (wire harness ground problem?)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Henri
2nd problem: 2 weeks ago I was taking off from the traffic light and when it shifted to second gear, it reved up and didn't engage anymore with Check engine soon light on. I puled in an empty lot, shut it off, started it back up and took off then it did the same thing at second gear. I was luckily right next to the dealer so I pulled in. I thought the transmission went out, but it turned out to be a shift solenoid. about $90 in part and $300 labor. They had to drop the pan to get to it. so I hope that's it for a while. other minor problems were engine missing and cutting out, but that turn out to be a loose plug wire, interior dome lights going out and fuse blowing which turned out to be an exposed driver side visor light wire(wrapped black electrical tape around it. A leaky master cylinder( I replaced it for $180), both fog lamps burned out within a month a part, and the common CD radio problem which I guess alot of people are experiencing, the cure to that is remove the CD before u turn off the car. My advice to Aurora owners is PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE, change fuel filter, air filter, service the tranny, change the oil, plugs and wires at 100k miles, it should run fine, and always put 93 octane in it. If anyone needs details on any of my problems just ask.
Thanks Aurorians
95 classic
thanks
Where are you getting the price on the bearings? When I picked mine up, they were around 100 bucks a piece...or does your estimate cover labor too? Good luck
When I need a GM replacement and don't have time to go to the GM Warehouse with my brother (who works for GM), I just call up a dealership and tell them "This is Brian from Tom's auto, and I need a part for a '95 Aurora...." and just ask for the dealer price. I have never had anyone question that. Maybe you could give it a shot...if you haven't already.
Alert to 95 owners. The dealer had problems with the rebuild Delco PCM’I when trying to fix hard shift problems (also had rough shifts when driving).
1st rebuild Delco PCM- resulted in check engine light came back on, fixed the hard shift but new code 0024-25C- traced code to faulty PCM(the one just put in)
2nd rebuild Delco PCM-gave problem code 0025-24Xon read test.
3rd rebuild Delco PCM –gave problem code 0025-24X. Dealer tech had been in contact with GM tech
assistance-they finally sent them a NEW PCM.
New PCM-fixed problem
The dealer said the factory made no comment on why the rebuild would not work without giving a problem code with the 1995, even though they were the correct replacement designated (rebuild) part. Next question is how many new PCM’s for the 1995 are still on hand and what happens when they out.
The dealer was very cooperative and did not charge me for having to do the change outs of the bad PCM’s,
I don’t think a non-dealer would have been so generous. (GM paid dealers since it was their bad part).
There was no additional charge for the new PCM (just 10 days without use of car while dealer struggled trying to fix)
Cost to replace PCM $288.27. Added benefit was the cruise control now works again. Stopped working when previous PCM’s were replaced with rebuilds (at 44,000 miles and 63,000 miles, now has 70,000 miles.
I hope this adds to the knowledge base for other
when they have a similar problem.
If anyone has any questions, please let me know and I will furnish an additional information I have available to help.
Bought the 97 last august - since then have actually paid more for repairs than I did for the car.
Went something like this:
rad,
alternater,
water pump
3 fuel injectors, wires and plugs
belts (both)
and last month, 4 weeks ago today in fact she just started blowing a ton of white smoke out the back. Had it towed to the dealer - and i got it back yesterday.
Diagnosis: coolant in the cylinders (3 of them)
Prognosis: not good. either a cheap fix in the top half like throttle body or something along that line (he told me 4 weeks ago and I forget that part) - or expensive like bad gaskets (the cheap end of expensive) or cracked block maybe, or bad heads. . . ($$$$$$$) or scrap time.
Conclusion - the heads had "warped" 6/1000's - and needed shaving down. As you all know, tearing into the engine is a costly affair -
the damage was $4000 - Canuck bucks - to get at the head gasket, and replace every nut ., bolt, seal and gasket when reassembling it. It was only $350 to machine the heads - about $1700 in additional parts - and $2000 in labour.
I needed new O2's (2 of them) also, plugs again, etc . . .
Then upon reinstall and start-up - they found bad injectors (more of them) 3 this time also . . .
Today, the very next day, after getting it back - the a/c dies - it just blows warm air . . .
So, the car goes on the block asap - I cant keep throwing good money after bad . . .it could mean selling my Camaro just to keep a car to get the family around in - in new parts. That isnt going to happen.
I havent posted here much in a few months, but have popped in to read and learn . . .
Im going to miss this stylish car, the decent power and creature features - I wont miss knowing all the service advisors by voice at the dealership., I wont miss calling for the pick-up shuttle, and not having to give them my address anymore.
I'll still see the classics on the road and think a few fond thoughts for mine - and hope you guys avoid the gremlins I found . . .
Dennis
I wouldn't hold plugs/wires and belts against the car unless they went bad really soon. Radiators and alternators should last a long time, but on a very high mileage car - even that's not unusual. But I guess these things are nothing compared to the heads. Yeah, the AC thing is bad. Very expensive to fix and it goes out earlier (seems to) than other cars. That's an Aurora weak spot for sure.
Greg