Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

seth042280

ok now that I have refilled the ac . the passenger side works but the drivers side doesnt . passenger (very cold)...driver(cool)

mike98c

If you have a temp. control knob on the passenger side door, setting it to max cool is the equivalent of turning the dashboard temp. control down to 60 degrees. Any warmer on the dash temp. setting and the air will not be as cold as the pass. side. The drivers side air will be blended with the warmer outside air. Other possibility if big difference is stuck air blend door.

seth042280

its got to be the air blend door then . anyway I can fix it ? (without going to the money monster?)

pizza442

According to the guys I've gotten to know at the dealer over the years, the Buick Riviera and Aurora tend to get warmer on the driverside first as the refridg. gets low. This is what I noticed first as my refridge started leaking out; pass colder than driver. Eventually both warm.
seth042280:
Maybe you don't have it quite fully charged?

kayaman420

Thanks for posting the A/C info. Is it really as easy as just buying a can of refridgerant from Wal-Mart? If so could you post some step by step instructions on how to perform the procedure? I would hate to try and fill the wrong fitting on my 95. And I really need my A/C for all this hot weather in the Twin Cities.(minnesota joke). Anyways if you could do this it would be much appreciated and I know you would save a lot of Aurorians a lot of cash.

Thanks

stickking1

I had the same problem with my 95. Amount of charge looked good, but driver's side was just cool...while the pass side was very cold. I spent an entire day opening the car up to find what I was sure would be a stuck mix door. Got all the way to the condenser and felt it with my hands. The drivers side was cool, but the pass side was frigid. So I thought I maybe had a plug in the condenser or something like that. Got frustrated, put it back together and fumed for an hour or so...then decided to put just a little more refridgerant in it. At this point, it was a few psi over "normal" and what do you know? The drivers side was cold again..real cold. So, I have just learned that my 95 is hyper-sensitive to the amount of refridgerant in the system. Just a little off, and the driver's side doesn't cool. I usually shoot for 3-4 psi over. Try this before you open her up...nothing I hate more than dealing with the HVAC unit in that car. There is just no room to work!

javidogg

Hey Aurorians, On Tuesday (5.20) I took my Aurora to get my turn flashers checked out, both sides are not flashing.

Also I mentioned that my antenna was not going all the way down when I turn off the car.

The dealer Technician was like, well I oiled and cleaned it up with WD40 and it worked fine, but by the time they had brought the car to me, it had stopped working, so they were like, "ah will just order you a new one".

They ordered the parts for me so I will be going back tomorrow on Thursday (5.22) to get them installed.

All covered under GM Warranty.

I'll post tomorrow to see how it went.

Peace.

Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

mike98c

Stickking1 is probably right. I should have also remembered due to the dash air blend, the first place a low charge shows up on the Seville, Park Avenue and the Aurora IS the dash vents. The hose for the recharge kit will fit only on the proper fitting. Just turn the air to max (60 degrees fan on high) after hose is connected then open valve on hose. Make sure the can remains UPRIGHT. A slug of liquid freon can easily lead to blown seals on the compressor.

stickking1

Ha....guess the tech didn't read the notice to "not lubricate or grease the antenna". I love the power antenna but I have never had a car with it that didn't have problems. Oh well, nice of 'em to order a new one for ya.

stickking1

By the way Seth, sometimes when I refill the refridgerant, my compressor will not turn on and the system won't "take" the freon (you can almost feel it leave the can). When that happens I find driving it up and down the driveway with the AC on gets the compressor rolling...then I can park it (with it still running), put up the hood and hook the freon back up. Just another "trick" to learn with the car. Keep an eye on that pressure, a little goes a long way. Good luck!

mike98c

If it works only after being lubed its on the point of failing anyway. cleaning the antenna shaft is okay but if it can't move the mast without lube there is a problem the lube is masking. Even a light lube like the wd40 will carry a film of sticky dirt into the motor assembly. Also sometimes the problem is the nylon (string) that moves the mast. It eventually kinks which leads to binding.

seth042280

thanks eveyone for help. I will go ahead and break out another freion bottke and try to add a few more psi.wish me luck . I only paid like 29.99 for 3 bottles and the guage and fittings. pretty sweet deal .

mike98c

If you set the can upright in a comfortably warm not hot pan of water while the system is charging up from the can the process goes much quicker.

seth042280

hiw am I supposed to get a correct reading from the psi when it keeps turning off and on while I am charging ?

Karen_S

The main Town Hall server will be taken offline today for repair between 10am - 4pm PST. During this time, you will not be able to post or add discussions.

We apologize for the inconvenience.

javidogg

I had posted several days ago about my Aurora being in the dealer for a turn signal relay problem,

Now it's all fixed and also the antenna was replaced with a new chrome one,

Thanks to the good old GM Warranty.

Peace.

Henry

Good Morning, this is a new one. The Service Engine light comes on. After parking the dic starts to flash "Change oil now" "Change Trans Now".

Guesses??

I am hoping its just a sensor.

Henry

Oil was just changed, tranny reads low fuild.

aurora5000

I changed my 2002 tranny fluid yesterday at the 20K mark. I unhook the hose that feeds the fluid to the radiator cooler or so I thought. I checked in the service manual and located the hoses. I unhooked the top one thinking fluid went from top to bottom on recirculating fluid. I found out the hard way.After 20 seconds of not seeing fluid in pan via the hose I had over the tranny fluid line. I shut off the car and fluid was squirting out of the radiator hole and NOT out of the tranny line I had dissconected. I had fluid everywhere. After cleaning up the fluid mess ( 2 hours later),I unhooked the proper hose at the transmission itself and used the fitting to hook up rubber hose into drain pan. That went really fast as I counted to 30 and shut off engine, then refilled with 3 quarts of fresh fluid. I put in 9 quarts of new fluid plus the Lubeguard at NAPA for tranny. I have done this many times on cars, but not on the Aurora. Taking off the air cleaner and housing made it all go really fast. I also removed the plastic shroud that is on the bottom side. I started at 6am and was done at 9am. At 10 am when my wife came out and I was just finishing rinsing off the floor with detergent. She was glad I had shown enough interest in cleaning up the garage and floor. Anybody else have any FUBAR moments?
Steve

rjs200240

Man, that sucks Steve... I've spill a quart of oil or so before, and that's a real pain... I can't imagine multiple quarts of tranny fluid. You worked fast if you changed it all and cleaned it all up in 3 hours.

I have a question, though. You ended up adding 12 quarts to the tranny? I'm at work so I can't consult the service manual, but isn't that about how much you can drain by removing the bottom pan? If you took the pan off, you could also change the filter and there is no worry of starving the tranny pump of fluid. That's would be my biggest worry of using the tranny to pump it out.

Back when I was a college student who lived at the dorms, I helped a friend change the oil on his truck. It was high off the ground, so there was plenty of clearance. He just put a gallon milk jug and funnel under the car and I pulled the plug out. We sat and watched as the jug started to fill up. Once it was about 3/4 of the way full and the oil was still flying out, we started to get concerned. Of course, there was nothing we could do with our concern as all we brought out to the parking lot was one jug, a funnel, and a wrench... Needless to say the parking lot was eventually covered with a giant oil pool about 5 feet wide. We filled his truck up (why we didn't equate the number of quarts needed to go into the truck with the number that would come out is beyond me) and headed to the grocery store to get some cat litter to soak it up...

Henry

But Back to my Question . . .

  Any answers??

aurora5000

I don't have my service manual in front of me either but I believe totally dry (new) transmission being at 12 quarts. Total rebuilt at 11 qts. and the 2 pan removal/drain/flush around 9 or 10 quarts. I rechecked and I put in 10 qts. plus Lubeguard. I quit pumping fluid when the new fluid was just coming of my drain line,a nice cherry color. The best way for me to check is put a little of new fluid in a white styrofome cup and then as it drains at idle, use another white cup and compare coloring. Thats how I figure I have gotten all of the old fluid that is going to come out.
  As far as starving the pump,at idle it is not a fast stream. I FIRST put in 2 quarts of new fluid, then I start the process. At idle I count to 20 or 30, shut off car and put in 3 quarts so it is never really low. If you can get a spouse to start and stop engine, all that much better.

rjs200240

Sorry for discussing something other than a "Henri" topic... :rolleyes:

I would guess that something odd happened electronically. If you've changed the oil and tranny fluid recently, I'd just reset the intervals and hope that fixes it. Then just change the oil at 3,000 since the monitor won't be right. You can check the levels just to be sure, but they shouldn't affect the change message. But really, I have no idea why the heck your car did that, Henri.

Henry

The delaer said that the check engine light was because I needed to replace the famous FPR.

As to why the car did the other thing with the DIC?
Nobody knows. I just reset the DIC for oil and tranny fluid.

Oh, and rjs200240, the Shop King accepts your apology. <lol>

sturdevant

Hey garnes , I need your help .Not on my aurora but on a celica . My car is sporatically jumping rpm's.i started to take off the intake manifold and decided not to in the middle, so i put it back on . now when i start my car It jumps from 800 rpm's to 2000. and keeps on doing it over and over ...i reset the ecu and checked all of the hoses and plugs and everything else...Is it possible that the intake manifold gasket was not set back in correctly and that is why the engine is doing this ?

pizza442

I thought I read somewhere that if the engine suffered a certain extreme episode (ie. overheat, etc) or a sensor THINKS this happened, it would order you to change the fluids as they/the engine may have been compromised. Kind of like how the CHP mandates that any cruiser in a high speed pursuit is to immediately go in for service afterward (usually tranny fluid changed).

garnes

Well, I'm really not a mechanic, and others here on the board are WAY more knowledgeable than I.

I don't know what all you touched in the process, and I don't know all the components of your celica. About all I can think of is that with rpm troubles on somebody's Aurora, I think it was associated with the throttle positioning unit/sensor. It's a small attachment to the throttle body. Also, when taking it off (certainly when putting a different one on) you had to "calibrate" the throttle position sensor as well. Maybe that is thrown off as a result of taking it off.

If you were pulling air from around a manifold that was not sealed or seated correctly, maybe that could screw with the air intake and thus the throttle. It seems like it would have to be a big leak though. I'm sure somebody else knows a lot more than I do here.

Otherwise all I can think of is a computer glitch.

rjs200240

I'd check for leaks. I'd bet your intake isn't sealed properly. Oftentimes gasket sealer is used along with a gasket. Once you break the seal with that on there, you need to clean off the mounting surfaces, get a new gasket and reseal it. You can't just tighten it back up. That would be my first guess, especially with the engine revving up as high as 2000 rpm.

seth042280

thanks guys oh yeah i am sturdevant and seth042280 ..my name is seth sturdevant ie the different screen names ......anyways I will take a look this weekend...good thing I still have my rora

mike98c

If the engine overheats you will get the "change oil now" display. If the tranny is low on fluid or heats up you will get the "change tranny now" display. Otherwise it will stay at 100% life on the tranny fluid which is confusing on the classics. I'd sniff the tranny dipstick just to make sure the fluid does'nt smell burned.

sturdevant

my car is overheating bad. how do i know if it is the radiator or the water pump ?

mike98c

I'd take care of the intake manifold first. If the gasket is leaking (Which will cause jumping idle on computer controlled engines) bad enough the engine will lean out and temps. will soar. You can also burn the valves and pistons.

jim1956

Has anyone replaced a drivers side headlight Assy?
If so, can you tell me how to get to it?

donnapaca

Would appreciate any help-dealers don"t seem to have long-term fix.

Thanks for the great site. I am new your site and have been looking hard to find a site specific to Aurora's.

The history includes records from date sold new. I purchased at end of my partner's lease.

12,808 miles (2-29-96) seal, lower crankcase replaced.

34,603 miles (11-25-97) diagnose electrical problems-replace radio.

44,513 miles (8-19-98) diagnose electrical problems, replace alternator controller, PCM/VCM (computers)

49,098 miles (12-30-98) diagnose electrical problems, again replace alternator (alternator is causing computers to fail?)

63,420 miles (3-1-2000)- I purchase at end of my partner's lease and he leased new Aurora-dealer never advise him the electrical problems would be reoccurring. Dealer performed major 60,000 service and indicated the care was fine.

65,777 miles (7-9-2001) The car backfired while wife was crossing busy intersection and was not very responsive (it also started missing). I was just able to get to local garage Not Dealer) next to intersection to try to at least get repair it enough to drive. I had no idea it would require major repair since it had only been 2,357 since it had a complete major 60,000-mile dealer service.

The repairs ($2,480) included the ignition module, ECM (computer), Electrical brake control module (ABS system)traction control light was coming on when it should not, and alternator. The diagnostic showed the alternator malfunction was damaging the above components(only found by attaching test equipment and driving-alternator would through spike periodically. This is the third alternator in 21,264 miles (and second EMC ).

Now 6-8-03 sitting at dealer-transmission was slamming into reverse-dealer found ECM(PCM?) was causing problem-replaced with delco re built (4 different ones) fixed transmission shift problem but each giving same trouble code-computer they replaced did not give that problem code (I don't have that code). GM factory techs are having new computer sent to see if that fixes.

My wife mainly drives this car and is not hard on it. It has always been serviced as recommended and always by dealer except one time mentioned above.

In my initial search I found similar electrical complaints at fedeal government web site-Office
of Defective Investigation (NHTSA), but have not found an actual fix from anyone.

It seams to me that there is something in the design that causes the alternators to through spikes (wire harness ground problem?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

mike98c

Isn't that the electrical harness that was defective and causes all sorts of problems if it isn't updated? Or maybe i'm having an out of brain experience!

Henry

I remember this issue. It was only present on early 95's. You ned to look at the build date in the door panel. If the build date is in early or mid 94, there needs to be update on the harness or something. There is a TSB out on the issue.

Henri

ramou

Well folks I haven't posted in couple of years and that's because I had no significant problems. But in the past 3 month, I've spent $1200 to fix my 95 Aurora with 95,000 miles. The first problem was I guess common which was the A/C, it started blowing warmer on the driver side, thought it was a stuck door but it turned out to be low on freon. 3 month later I got a new A/C compressor before it completely stopped working ($800), I got tired of adding stop leak with R-134 in it.
2nd problem: 2 weeks ago I was taking off from the traffic light and when it shifted to second gear, it reved up and didn't engage anymore with Check engine soon light on. I puled in an empty lot, shut it off, started it back up and took off then it did the same thing at second gear. I was luckily right next to the dealer so I pulled in. I thought the transmission went out, but it turned out to be a shift solenoid. about $90 in part and $300 labor. They had to drop the pan to get to it. so I hope that's it for a while. other minor problems were engine missing and cutting out, but that turn out to be a loose plug wire, interior dome lights going out and fuse blowing which turned out to be an exposed driver side visor light wire(wrapped black electrical tape around it. A leaky master cylinder( I replaced it for $180), both fog lamps burned out within a month a part, and the common CD radio problem which I guess alot of people are experiencing, the cure to that is remove the CD before u turn off the car. My advice to Aurora owners is PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE, change fuel filter, air filter, service the tranny, change the oil, plugs and wires at 100k miles, it should run fine, and always put 93 octane in it. If anyone needs details on any of my problems just ask.

kayaman420

Does anyone know how to tell if a wheel bearing is bad. I need to replace my wheel speed sensors and they come with the wheel bearing if you buy one new. But I just want to replace the sensors if that is all that is bad and save myself $450 . I dont belive my bearings are bad I have no signs so I am just going to replace the sensors. Is there a test to see if the bearings are bad just in case, so I can fix it all at one time if necessary?

Thanks Aurorians

kayaman420

Some how my center taillight cracked.(the large piece that doesnt light up). I bought a new one from the junkyard for $100.($618 new). The piece is held on by four bolts that are accessable if you remove the trunk lining on the deck lid. The problem is that I cant figure out what tool or trick to use to get to the bolts. There is only a few small holes that you can reach them from and I cant get a wrench to work. The area is just too tight. If anyone has done this before please let me know what tool to use to get at the bolts or if there is some kind of trick to doing this.

95 classic

thanks

stickking1

Kayaman, I don't know if this will help, but when my bearings were shot on my 95, I could feel a bit of play on the tire. So, while I had it up in the air I could grap the tire and "wiggle" it. It would pivot slightly around the half-shaft I don't really know how to describe it other than that...you just really have to feel it. After replacing them, it was much more solid.
  Where are you getting the price on the bearings? When I picked mine up, they were around 100 bucks a piece...or does your estimate cover labor too? Good luck

mike98c

If you need the no. of a OEM part you can avoid the rather incomplete G.M. parts direct sites and many times find assemblies AND sub assemblies with the part no.s at the AC Delco site. Example radiator inlet side tanks, radiator gaskets, radiator core... you get the idea.

kayaman420

The best price I found was around $250 for each. That includes the speed sensors. If you could get the bearings for $100 please let me know where I can get that deal. Then I would just change the sensors and bearings and be done with it.

stickking1

I forgot that you might be talking about GM replacements...and in that case, you're price is probably as good as you're going to get. I got both hub assemblies at Murray's here in Lansing, Mich. w/Lifetime warranties for 99.99 each. These both came with the wheel speed sensors. I did the job on my car on March 1st (still have the reciepts 'cause they don't save the warranty info.), so Murray's prices couldn't have changed much since then...but I don't know if you have one around you. It seems to me that Autozone priced me out at about 150.00 each before I called Murray's...I might be wrong on that price...it's been a while.
  When I need a GM replacement and don't have time to go to the GM Warehouse with my brother (who works for GM), I just call up a dealership and tell them "This is Brian from Tom's auto, and I need a part for a '95 Aurora...." and just ask for the dealer price. I have never had anyone question that. Maybe you could give it a shot...if you haven't already.

sinatra2

The speed sensors cannot be replaced separately. the bearing is a sealed unit and would have to be split apart to replace the sensor inside.

donnapaca

Update on hard 95 aurora hard shift between park & reverse.

Alert to 95 owners. The dealer had problems with the rebuild Delco PCM&#146;I when trying to fix hard shift problems (also had rough shifts when driving).
1st rebuild Delco PCM- resulted in check engine light came back on, fixed the hard shift but new code 0024-25C- traced code to faulty PCM(the one just put in)

2nd rebuild Delco PCM-gave problem code 0025-24Xon read test.

3rd rebuild Delco PCM &#150;gave problem code 0025-24X. Dealer tech had been in contact with GM tech
     assistance-they finally sent them a NEW PCM.

New PCM-fixed problem

The dealer said the factory made no comment on why the rebuild would not work without giving a problem code with the 1995, even though they were the correct replacement designated (rebuild) part. Next question is how many new PCM&#146;s for the 1995 are still on hand and what happens when they out.

The dealer was very cooperative and did not charge me for having to do the change outs of the bad PCM&#146;s,
I don&#146;t think a non-dealer would have been so generous. (GM paid dealers since it was their bad part).
There was no additional charge for the new PCM (just 10 days without use of car while dealer struggled trying to fix)

Cost to replace PCM $288.27. Added benefit was the cruise control now works again. Stopped working when previous PCM&#146;s were replaced with rebuilds (at 44,000 miles and 63,000 miles, now has 70,000 miles.

I hope this adds to the knowledge base for other
when they have a similar problem.

If anyone has any questions, please let me know and I will furnish an additional information I have available to help.

homer2000ssei

OK, i havent been here for a while, but thought some of you might be interested.

Bought the 97 last august - since then have actually paid more for repairs than I did for the car.
Went something like this:
rad,
alternater,
water pump
3 fuel injectors, wires and plugs
belts (both)
and last month, 4 weeks ago today in fact she just started blowing a ton of white smoke out the back. Had it towed to the dealer - and i got it back yesterday.

Diagnosis: coolant in the cylinders (3 of them)

Prognosis: not good. either a cheap fix in the top half like throttle body or something along that line (he told me 4 weeks ago and I forget that part) - or expensive like bad gaskets (the cheap end of expensive) or cracked block maybe, or bad heads. . . ($$$$$$$) or scrap time.

Conclusion - the heads had "warped" 6/1000's - and needed shaving down. As you all know, tearing into the engine is a costly affair -

the damage was $4000 - Canuck bucks - to get at the head gasket, and replace every nut ., bolt, seal and gasket when reassembling it. It was only $350 to machine the heads - about $1700 in additional parts - and $2000 in labour.
I needed new O2's (2 of them) also, plugs again, etc . . .
Then upon reinstall and start-up - they found bad injectors (more of them) 3 this time also . . .

Today, the very next day, after getting it back - the a/c dies - it just blows warm air . . .

So, the car goes on the block asap - I cant keep throwing good money after bad . . .it could mean selling my Camaro just to keep a car to get the family around in - in new parts. That isnt going to happen.

I havent posted here much in a few months, but have popped in to read and learn . . .

Im going to miss this stylish car, the decent power and creature features - I wont miss knowing all the service advisors by voice at the dealership., I wont miss calling for the pick-up shuttle, and not having to give them my address anymore.

I'll still see the classics on the road and think a few fond thoughts for mine - and hope you guys avoid the gremlins I found . . .

Dennis

kayaman420

Like I have said before. With these Auroras you either get a lemon or a gem. Theres no in between with the Aurora, she either loves you or hates you with a passion. I figure with the ones that go bad they must be mistreated and abused by thier former owners. So there pissed.

rjs200240

Sorry to hear about all your troubles with the car. I hope it doesn't rule the Aurora out for you forever. If you are in the market again in the future, maybe you'll find a nice 2001-2003 that will treat you better.

garnes

I'm sorry too. Not that this helps, but that's the first warped head I remember being reported here.

I wouldn't hold plugs/wires and belts against the car unless they went bad really soon. Radiators and alternators should last a long time, but on a very high mileage car - even that's not unusual. But I guess these things are nothing compared to the heads. Yeah, the AC thing is bad. Very expensive to fix and it goes out earlier (seems to) than other cars. That's an Aurora weak spot for sure.

gisom

Anyone in the chicago area have any luck getting a battery? I am looking for one for my 95 classic. Dealer is last resort. Any suggestions?

Greg