Hey guys, here's one for ya: On my way to work today, just after I brought my car up to speed on the highway, my transmission seemed to just pop right out of gear. Maybe "pop" is the wrong word..The trans just let go, at least that's what it felt like. After muttering a few choice words, I began to slow and move to the shoulder. The car just coasted..if I touched the gas the revs would rise, but no movement of the car. The check engine light was on right away, but no other indications of problems. Temp was fine and the DIC didn't have anything to say to me. When I had coasted to about 40 I was still trying to test some things and I noticed that I wasn't out of gear, it seems that I was stuck in 2nd...when I was at about 35 I could hit the gas, the car would move, but I would be up around 3500-4000 rpm. I didn't try to push it while I was in 2nd. I was able to limp off the nearest exit, and found that from a dead stop the car acted just fine, drove like normal, up until I got to 35-40mph. At that point the trans just stayed in 2nd and wouldn't shift. I disabled the traction control, but no difference. I haven't been able to check the fluid level yet, but when I get a break, I'll go out an take a look. As you might have guessed, I am not in a good mood now. I have had no problems with the trans up until today, no slipping or anything. She's got 145,000 miles and I don't have a good feeling about this one. If any of you have any ideas, let me know. I saw the previous posts about a broken relay and solenoid problems. Do you guys remember the code the computer gave you? And what does that job entail? It'll probably take me a day or two to get the scanner home to read the codes...so I have some time to wait. Thanks!
The FPR on my '97 is mounted on the fuel injector for cylinder 7. You will need to remove the intake manifold cover to access it. The cover is easy to remove -- 4 nuts. Good luck.
Hey guys, a couple of you have posted before about similar problems with your trans in the Classic. "davesaurora", "dtlr077" and "mab4962" all had posts about their trans issues. If you guys are still posting on here, I'd love to hear what you did to fix the problem...and maybe even how much it cost you in the end. I'm looking at fixing this myself and just would like to know what you guys had to go through. Thanks!
Sure, of course my car was obtained through a broker (I used to work for a company called Bank's that was the largest or second largest depending on who you talked to, insurance salvage company in the U.S.)from an insurance flood loss. All the carpeting was soaked. I'd check the windshield and see if it's dribbling down from there first since it's on the drivers side.
I would put my money on the shift solenoid. what happened to you happened to my car . driving along and all of a sudden bam it just started downshifting. so I pulled over and started the car again. but the key is you have to figure out where it is acting up .turn off the car .start again put it in 3rd and drive and it might let you shift all the way to 3rd without happening .I will also tell you this .your looking at about 500.00 for repair and then of course they will tell you that you need a tranny rebuild like always . .So what i would reccomend is pay the 60 bucks for diagnostics and then anticipate the damage , hope this helps
I talked to a mechanic and he said that there is a tamper proof cap on the FPR but you can break it off .I think it covers the nut but anyways you can supposedly break it off and adjust your fpr.I will be the lab rat for this experiment
This message is to let everyone know how my tranny problem turned out. First as I said in previous posts it was the input speed sensor. This job requires at least 15 hrs of labor so I decided to go with a complete overhaul since I already was paying for 90% of the labor just to fix the one sensor. So for the complete overhaul including a new torque converter and water pump the total damage was $3100. The car feels great now. As it should for $3100. The shop was Kennedy Transmission in Minneapolis and I am very pleased with their work. The $3100 is a ton of money , but the good thing is that I have a warranty, the bad news is that my warranty company is named Discover Platinum Card. On the bright side though I got to drive a luxurious Ford Focus for a week.
On another note I purchased some chrome factory wheels for my 95 from AAArims.com and had those put on at Goodyear with the forced wheel balancing. I have always had the 65-75 MPH vibration , but this totally fixed that . I highly recommend the force wheel balance.
This was my first major repair for this car since I owned it. It is a 95 with 95k on it and I bought it in June 2001 for $8500 with 72K extremely clean inside and out 1 owner. I think I got a good car here. I went to the dealer and got the history on it. The only problem the original owner ever had was a battery cable at 10k miles. Before my transmission problem the only thing that ever broke on me was FPR (of course). So my 95 has only had really 3 problems in its lifetime. Knock on wood. I do have to change the O2 sensors now and the MAP sensor, but these are minor repairs. All and all though I feel that I have been very lucky with this car and I think it shows that Auroras dont all have to be filled with problems. Just take care of your car and it will take care of you.
A couple days ago my left turn signal started to act funny, It stays lit on and won't flash.
My right side flasher is working properly and every once in a while I'll hear the clicking sound that it's suppose to do while the turn signal is on, but with no turn signals on, I know weird or spooky.
I think my left turn signal flasher module is out, a while back, about 6 months ago I had a flash relay replaced, because I think my right side was not working properly.
And I thought both sides were in the same relay thing, I guess not.
I'll be going to my GM dealer to have these thing checked out, I'm hoping to have my new (20") wheels in before I go to the dealer, I'll like to see their faces at the dealer when they see these baby on chromies and low pros.
Well I'll let you all know how it turns out from here.
seth042280: Interesting idea to adjust the FPR pressure. I saw a program on Speed Channel a couple of months ago about tuning a 4-cylinder import. They showed cutting off the top of the FPR and installing an add-on unit that allowed for adjustment; they gave no details about the add-on, unfortunately. I was surprised that the import's FPR looked very similar to our Auroras'. They showed cutting off the top with something that looked very much like a tubing cutter.
I assume you are looking to increase the FPR pressure on your Aurora. I have given this some thought and decided that there is nothing to be gained unless the engine has been significantly modified. My reasoning is that with increased fuel pressure, the closed-loop fuel-management system will shorten the fuel injector pulse width to compensate for the higher pressure, using the oxygen sensors in the exhaust stream to maintain the programmed air-fuel ratio. If the stock pressure cannot supply enough fuel for a modified engine, then higher FPR setting would be beneficial. Am I missing something?
That all sounds good to me, but I'll bet the mods we are doing are handled fine with the stock setting on everything. At the dyno, my A/F ratios have remained constant with the mods I've done. I know you are not suggesting that anything different was needed.
I wouldnt even consider it unless the northstar specialist told me about it . I have thought about it and I am still thinking about some how getting more air . Garnes we have dicussed this before . I could somehow get air from the front and use a airbypass valve for protection. anyways . Just in theory ..more air more fuel . right? so with my custom exhaust with little restriction and a different air supply I think that fuel pressure would be a necesity ....I think
Anyone ever changed there IAC motor themselves. I just received one in the mail and I went to put it on. It comes with that screw in a different package and you have to screw it in your self. Iam not sure how far to screw it in or if it will adjust itself once I install it. Help would be appreciated and any other tips I should know before doing this job.
Well, it was the shift solenoid "A" that was giving me problems, and the good news is that's all it was. My brother and I went to work on it yesterday, and had it all buttoned up in about 3 hours. Total cost on the job was $111.00! I got both solenoids for $44 bucks and the dealership trans gasket and filter kit for $67 (no way I was putting a cork gasket on this car)..oh yeah, and a couple quarts of trans oil. It was a little tense when you have to start opening up the valve body, but we got through it without incident. Having a mechanic in the family is better than having a doctor in the family. Since both solenoids came in the kit, we swapped both out, and she is running just fine again. I was really surprised to see how clean it was in the pan. I didn't see any metal shavings in the fluid at all. The magnet looked good too. And that trans hasn't been opened up in the last 80,000 miles. On tomorrow's schedule is changing the EGR valve...but after this last job, it'll be a piece of cake.
Hello Auroreans, I just bought a 95 and I LOVE it! But, I am having problems with the Passkey. Sometimes the computer says "clean key wait 3 min" and I wait,and wait... Is this a common problem? I have read these posts and saw nothing about it. When I was looking for an Aurora I saw one other that did it too (when I got mine it didn't do it) Can I have this disabled? Please help, the wife is going crazy. Thank you, Jim in Ohio
My Corvette had similar problems (though I had to wait about 5 minutes). You can probably by-pass it, but better yet, try getting a new key made. Over time the pellet starts to wear down and eventually it just doesn't make very good contact anymore. I'd try that cheap fix before trying something more expensive.
I'm glad the new Pass-Key III doesn't use the pellet anymore...
Last week Friday night I got hit by the center cap bandit, I woke up and by the time I got to work noticed that the left side, front center cap was missing from my Aurora.
I called several hubcap stores and these thing run for like 30 bucks new and I found some on e-bay ffrom like $15.00 to as much as $60.00.
Well I finally got my replacement today a fairly used one for $15.00 plus tax.
I tell you guys is not a nice feeling knowing that you Aurora got vandalized like that, but what your gonna do.
One thing that bother me the most was driving around with a missing center cap, man it feels like your car is naked or something, I don't know but it bother me.
So I'm going to start to look for another spare just in case that Bandit cames around, I'll be some what ready.
I've complained of the harsh ride on my 99 more than once. I stuck my head underneath the front today for the umpteenth time today and noticed something. The stabilizer bar is attached to the engine cradle by a bracket on each side of the car (with a big fat insulator bushing thingy) and 2 bolts in each bracket. When I stick my finger in the holes in the bottom of the cradle there are no nuts in there....seems like just bushings or thick washers of some sort. My question is should there be nuts in there or is the cradle threaded somehow? Any help would be appreciated...the ride is driving me nuts. Im thinking the bracket is moving and bottoming out and maybe causing the clunky crummy ride.
In the past someone had posted a re learn procedure for after you work on the TB or anything connected with it ie; TP Sensor. I received my Helm repair manuals last night and the procedure that was posted here earlier was not correct. ( at least not for 95's). I will list the correct procedure below also I will add the Idle learn procedure.
RELEARN PROCEDURE- throttle positon 1. turn key to on position.(dont turn engine on) 2. turn key to off position. 3. wait at least 20 seconds. (repeat steps 1-3 two more times) (done)
IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE- 1. turn car on and let idle till temp reaches at least 176 degrees. 2. let car idle for five minutes longer at this temp. 3. give gas and hold RPM's over 1500 for a short time. Let idle return to normal. 4. hold brake and put car in drive. Let idle like this for at least 2 minutes. (done)
Just thought I would give you guys a little info that I learned. Hope it helps someone.
OK, you know it's getting bad when all of the tow truck drivers know your name ("You again? This makes at least four times I've towed your car.").
My 98's off at the mechanic (not the dealer) to have the accelerator cable checked out. It apparently broke or disconnected - the pedal just flops. What's unusual is that the accelerator stuck open. I was nearly home for lunch when it did this - had to turn off the car when I got up to 60 in a 25 mph zone. When I restarted (before checking the pedal - I tapped it a couple of times in case it was stuck) the tach shot up to 3000. I shut it off instantly, got out and checked the pedal, and called the tow truck.
Interesting that mcclearyfl and mike98c had problems with loose accelerator cables on theirs, and now this on mine. I'm awaiting the diagnosis before calling my warranty company (who might find it cheaper to just buy the car from me, than to keep paying for repairs :-)
Well my 95' Aroara, which I've had for about 5 years, Failed me for the 1st time. Turned the key and got Nothing except some Clicking from the relays that are under the back seat.Battery is Strong and pulled the intake off thinking it was the Starter, but I'm getting NO power at the Starter. Anybody have any Idea's??.......
I had a similar issue with my 97 and noticed that the black ground cable to the engine was quite corroded. It is mounted on a stud to the left of the alternator on the body inner fender. Remove the nut-stud (liquid wrench may be needed!) and sand both the round lug shiny AND sand the threads that go into the body. This fixed my ground issue and I've had no issues of this type again.
Well, the gas pedal was fine by the time the mechanics looked at the car. Their theory was that the throttle was stuck wide open.
I grudgingly took the car to the dealer (who must have $$$ signs in their eyes each time they see me). They diagnosed it as a binding cruise control cable, which caused the throttle to stick open.
Also got my power window switch to fail in the dealer's presence. Two more items for the warranty company (get the car back tomorrow, since of course neither the switch nor the cable is in stock).
I got the '97 back from the traditional oil leak problem. They put in new seals and gaskets and cleaned the oil pan out, etc. I had them put on both belts while it was in and fix the shift indicator, this required a new wiring harness. They also found a leak in the water pump housing and put a new gasket on it.
All it cost was the $50 deductable except for the belts, which was $50. I try to change the belts at 50k if at all possible. I know they will last longer than that but I feel this is good insurance. The same with batteries, I try to change between the 4th and 5th year on a good battery. They never give out in the garage where you can get it re started and to a mechanic to have it replaced or replace it yourself. It is always in a parking garage or on the street somewhere.
I also took the 95 in for a coolant flush and have the belts replaced on it. It has 100k on it. I had the belts replaced on it about 50k also. Since I had the '95 oil leak repaired, the oil consumption went from 1200 miles to about 3000 miles. I didn't have to add any this last oil change. I have a thumping and a screeching noise from the front end on the '95. The mechanic at the Olds place said it was carrier bushings. They are ordering them. I'll let you know if that takes care of my front end noises.
Hello everyone, as this is my first post I must say that after cruising the discussion boards I find some very similar problems that I have experienced and got some good insights. Now to the problem, any opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated. My car is a 95 with 85K. It developed a misfire quite suddenly and it is a persistant bugger. It seems to happen only during part throttle acceleration and it seems like one plug goes out with light acc. and two plugs with harder acceleration. All the posts about misfire say to replace Plugs, wires, coils, and sometimes the fuel pressure regulator. (in that order?) I have gone so far as replacing the plugs (standard AC's) with double platinum ones with no change. I think the next step may be to replace the wires but the wires are only 25K miles old. (replaced by the dealer when I bought the car due to a misfire, I wonder if the dealer put in the AC's) Is there a way to test coils without purchasing one and swaping it about? How about testing the FPR? Does anyone have problems with the plug wires arcing everywhere? Seems like I have a lot of arc tracings. (Maybe I should just spend the bucks and replace the wires) Are there better wire sets out there, other than genuine GM, that will resist arcing better and still fit? Love the Aurora, just wish it would be smooth again.
Hello Aurorians, I'm thinking of going to true dual exhaust. Are there any reasons not to do this? Any info will be appreciated. Thanks , Jim from Ohio
Has anyone out there had to have the Ignition Switch replaced on their Aroura?? If so, could you tell me the symptoms (If any) that led to the Switch being replaced.........thanks
You might find that sound quality suffers. It's like two I-4's running. A cross-over pipe is a pretty common upgrade for Corvette owners as it really smooths out the exhaust sound. There isn't any real big problem with a single exhaust as long as it flows the amount you want it to.
Turns out my Starting Problem was the Ignition Switch. For about a year, from time to time I would turn the key and get NOTHING, I would then release the key, turn it again and it would start every time.Of course this process would only take about 1.5 seconds,I wasn't sure if I had a problem or if I just wasn't turning the key all the way. UNTIL,a couple of days ago,when I turned the key got NOTHING, released the key, turned it again and got NOTHING! This time she was really DEAD....Got the Switch for $198.00 bucks and my 95' ROARA is back on the road!....Didn't realize how much I missed her till she was gone.........
Anyone ever have the HVAC fan go on high and not switch off? I have had it happen several times in cold humid weather and can only shut it off by pulling the 30A fuse under the rear seat. It even stays on with the key out!
My service manual say either the HVAC programmer or blower relay but I wanted to see what it may be before spending big $$$. Thanks.
I unplugged the coolant level harness from the bottom of the coolant surge tank. This forces the high speed cooling fan to operate when the engine is running and the temp is above ~160 degrees. The upshot of my little experiment was the wild temp. swings and overheating disappeared. I'm now very suspicious that the aftermarket radiator can't (un)hold a b.t.u. to the stock G.M. Delco radiator.
Thanks for the info. My particular situation is the 'dash' fan and not the cooling fans. But to comment on your experience, I replaced the radiator a couple months back with an aftermarket (Visteon made) one and the temp runs a bit lower than it used to- we'll have to see if that's true in the summer.
Something to think about- I also had to replace the coolent tank due to the stuck coolant switch turning the fans on at 160. You may want to hook it back up as I suspect the PCM may limit the amount of spark timing advance in this mode and you might be loosing power...
My 96 Aurora now has 87,000 miles on it and still performing very well. I do have a few problems that I'm hoping I can get help with.
The moonroof will raise up fine. When it goes down and back, it hangs on the roof just enough to keep it from moving by itself. You can just push on it a little from outside and it will go down and back perfect. Just wondering if it needs adjusting or something.
Another thing, over the past couple months or so, there is kind of a whirring sound (best description I can think of) coming from the passenger side of motor. Could this be intake noise or a.c. compressor or power steering? My a.c. is not blowing cold, compressor kicking in and out, but I know low charge will cause this.
hey chstr1000 I am having the exact same problem with my car about the compressor turning on and off . I am scared to find out what it is . i hope its just the low refrigerant
I came home and noticed that something was hanging from my car . it was a harnessin the aft section in the middle where a bunch of harnesses connect but this one led to a small black cyllinder shaped device,.anyone know what the device was? PLEASE HELP
Is it coming from the compressor or load leveling switch for the air level control? Watching x-files as Mulder is chased by sinister dark shades on air force/ufo base.
It appears that my compressor cutos on and off . it cuts on and then once it reaches 53 psi it cuts off.....also when I turn my car on the outside temp reading flashes on and off for 1 minute . any ideas on either one of these probs?
Low refrig. will set a code you can have scanned at the dealer or autozone, Autozone is free. It's very likely low refrig. if your compressor is turning on and off. You can go to Wal-mart and get a can off refrig. along with the hose to recharge for about eleven dollars if memory serves me. DON'T use the one with the leak stop. G.M. compressors tend to run fine with the leak stop until the Temp. dips (say your using defrost on a cool morning) and then seize. Also if it clicks on and off it still has refrig. in it. It's probably just low. The oil should still be in the system so you probably don't want or need the recharge with oil.
Is usaully a poor connection or a bad sensor. The temp. probe is located in the opening for the radiator in the grill, attached to one of the support struts. It will look like a bullet. I would try unplugging the lead and useing some contact cleaner on it, then plugging and unplugging it several time to get a good connection as the first and hopefully last step.
Seth,where and how are you checking the pressure. Isn't the low side (side with the bigger recharge fittings) supposed to be thirty to forty pounds of pressure static, air not running.
I thought that the low side was the smaller fitting as on most cars.I did refil and it still shows the pressure at 53 then it cuts off. i have heard of cycling compressors where they all do this but i dont think that auroras use this . Its also too cold to see if it is blowing cold . I mean it builds up to 53 shuts down ..builds up to 53 shuts down . I hope its not the compressor , it is still engaging though just intermittenly . thanks for the info on the flashing temp .
There are two fittings easily accessible on the same line. One is the larger than the other, the recharge goes into the smaller, There is another fitting on the other line that is more the size of a regular schraeder valve. It is the smallest fitting and holds high pressure. you definetly don't want to charge that one even if you could find an adapter.The pressure could blow the recharge can apart. The compressor WILL cycle on and off in regular use to prevent the condensor fins from icing up wich would prevent the air from flowing through properly. When you say cycling on and off, the cycling isn't excessive unless it's doing it many times a minute. The temp. of the condensor is monitered. If it drops below 32 degrees the compressor cycles off. The air door continously adjusts between the amount of warm outside air and the cold conditioned air to maintain the proper inside temp. The compressor won't engage if the outside air is below either forty or fortyfive degrees I don't remember which. If you over charge it the limiter switch will prevent the compressor from kicking in at all. Conversly if the system is completely empty the compressor will not engage.
I recently posted that my a.c. compressor was kicking in out out constantly. Just an update, I took the car in to Cadillac dealer to get some warranty work done, they said compressor was definitely bad and would need to be replaced. Also getting some badly needed oil leaks fixed. Still waiting on warranty approval though. There better not be any problems there.
Comments
On my way to work today, just after I brought my car up to speed on the highway, my transmission seemed to just pop right out of gear. Maybe "pop" is the wrong word..The trans just let go, at least that's what it felt like. After muttering a few choice words, I began to slow and move to the shoulder. The car just coasted..if I touched the gas the revs would rise, but no movement of the car. The check engine light was on right away, but no other indications of problems. Temp was fine and the DIC didn't have anything to say to me. When I had coasted to about 40 I was still trying to test some things and I noticed that I wasn't out of gear, it seems that I was stuck in 2nd...when I was at about 35 I could hit the gas, the car would move, but I would be up around 3500-4000 rpm. I didn't try to push it while I was in 2nd. I was able to limp off the nearest exit, and found that from a dead stop the car acted just fine, drove like normal, up until I got to 35-40mph. At that point the trans just stayed in 2nd and wouldn't shift. I disabled the traction control, but no difference. I haven't been able to check the fluid level yet, but when I get a break, I'll go out an take a look.
As you might have guessed, I am not in a good mood now. I have had no problems with the trans up until today, no slipping or anything. She's got 145,000 miles and I don't have a good feeling about this one. If any of you have any ideas, let me know. I saw the previous posts about a broken relay and solenoid problems. Do you guys remember the code the computer gave you? And what does that job entail? It'll probably take me a day or two to get the scanner home to read the codes...so I have some time to wait. Thanks!
The FPR on my '97 is mounted on the fuel injector for cylinder 7. You will need to remove the intake manifold cover to access it. The cover is easy to remove -- 4 nuts. Good luck.
soaking wet under the floor mat.
Anyone else had this problem?
On another note I purchased some chrome factory wheels for my 95 from AAArims.com and had those put on at Goodyear with the forced wheel balancing. I have always had the 65-75 MPH vibration , but this totally fixed that . I highly recommend the force wheel balance.
This was my first major repair for this car since I owned it. It is a 95 with 95k on it and I bought it in June 2001 for $8500 with 72K extremely clean inside and out 1 owner. I think I got a good car here. I went to the dealer and got the history on it. The only problem the original owner ever had was a battery cable at 10k miles. Before my transmission problem the only thing that ever broke on me was FPR (of course). So my 95 has only had really 3 problems in its lifetime. Knock on wood. I do have to change the O2 sensors now and the MAP sensor, but these are minor repairs. All and all though I feel that I have been very lucky with this car and I think it shows that Auroras dont all have to be filled with problems. Just take care of your car and it will take care of you.
My right side flasher is working properly and every once in a while I'll hear the clicking sound that it's suppose to do while the turn signal is on, but with no turn signals on, I know weird or spooky.
I think my left turn signal flasher module is out, a while back, about 6 months ago I had a flash relay replaced, because I think my right side was not working properly.
And I thought both sides were in the same relay thing, I guess not.
I'll be going to my GM dealer to have these thing checked out, I'm hoping to have my new (20")
wheels in before I go to the dealer, I'll like to see their faces at the dealer when they see these baby on chromies and low pros.
Well I'll let you all know how it turns out from here.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Interesting idea to adjust the FPR pressure. I saw a program on Speed Channel a couple of months ago about tuning a 4-cylinder import. They showed cutting off the top of the FPR and installing an add-on unit that allowed for adjustment; they gave no details about the add-on, unfortunately. I was surprised that the import's FPR looked very similar to our Auroras'. They showed cutting off the top with something that looked very much like a tubing cutter.
I assume you are looking to increase the FPR pressure on your Aurora. I have given this some thought and decided that there is nothing to be gained unless the engine has been significantly modified. My reasoning is that with increased fuel pressure, the closed-loop fuel-management system will shorten the fuel injector pulse width to compensate for the higher pressure, using the oxygen sensors in the exhaust stream to maintain the programmed air-fuel ratio. If the stock pressure cannot supply enough fuel for a modified engine, then higher FPR setting would be beneficial. Am I missing something?
Thanks Aurorians
It was a little tense when you have to start opening up the valve body, but we got through it without incident. Having a mechanic in the family is better than having a doctor in the family. Since both solenoids came in the kit, we swapped both out, and she is running just fine again. I was really surprised to see how clean it was in the pan. I didn't see any metal shavings in the fluid at all. The magnet looked good too. And that trans hasn't been opened up in the last 80,000 miles. On tomorrow's schedule is changing the EGR valve...but after this last job, it'll be a piece of cake.
I just bought a 95 and I LOVE it! But, I am having problems with the Passkey. Sometimes the computer says "clean key wait 3 min" and I wait,and wait... Is this a common problem? I have read these posts and saw nothing about it. When I was looking for an Aurora I saw one other that did it too (when I got mine it didn't do it) Can I have this disabled? Please help, the wife is going crazy.
Thank you, Jim in Ohio
I'm glad the new Pass-Key III doesn't use the pellet anymore...
Last week Friday night I got hit by the center cap bandit, I woke up and by the time I got to work noticed that the left side, front center cap was missing from my Aurora.
I called several hubcap stores and these thing run for like 30 bucks new and I found some on e-bay ffrom like $15.00 to as much as $60.00.
Well I finally got my replacement today a fairly used one for $15.00 plus tax.
I tell you guys is not a nice feeling knowing that you Aurora got vandalized like that, but what your gonna do.
One thing that bother me the most was driving around with a missing center cap, man it feels like your car is naked or something, I don't know but it bother me.
So I'm going to start to look for another spare just in case that Bandit cames around, I'll be some what ready.
Well just thought I shared these with you all.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Thanks,
--Sean
RELEARN PROCEDURE- throttle positon
1. turn key to on position.(dont turn engine on)
2. turn key to off position.
3. wait at least 20 seconds.
(repeat steps 1-3 two more times) (done)
IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE-
1. turn car on and let idle till temp reaches at least 176 degrees.
2. let car idle for five minutes longer at this temp.
3. give gas and hold RPM's over 1500 for a short time. Let idle return to normal.
4. hold brake and put car in drive. Let idle like this for at least 2 minutes. (done)
Just thought I would give you guys a little info that I learned. Hope it helps someone.
P.S. this is for a 95.
My 98's off at the mechanic (not the dealer) to have the accelerator cable checked out. It apparently broke or disconnected - the pedal just flops. What's unusual is that the accelerator stuck open. I was nearly home for lunch when it did this - had to turn off the car when I got up to 60 in a 25 mph zone. When I restarted (before checking the pedal - I tapped it a couple of times in case it was stuck) the tach shot up to 3000. I shut it off instantly, got out and checked the pedal, and called the tow truck.
Interesting that mcclearyfl and mike98c had problems with loose accelerator cables on theirs, and now this on mine. I'm awaiting the diagnosis before calling my warranty company (who might find it cheaper to just buy the car from me, than to keep paying for repairs :-)
--Robert
I had a similar issue with my 97 and noticed that the black ground cable to the engine was quite corroded. It is mounted on a stud to the left of the alternator on the body inner fender. Remove the nut-stud (liquid wrench may be needed!) and sand both the round lug shiny AND sand the threads that go into the body. This fixed my ground issue and I've had no issues of this type again.
I grudgingly took the car to the dealer (who must have $$$ signs in their eyes each time they see me). They diagnosed it as a binding cruise control cable, which caused the throttle to stick open.
Also got my power window switch to fail in the dealer's presence. Two more items for the warranty company (get the car back tomorrow, since of course neither the switch nor the cable is in stock).
--Robert
really thinking about trading up to a 2001:
http://www.getauto.com/autolinks_cardetail.html?x_dealer_id=AADdX- &vinNum=1G3GS64CX14120415
All it cost was the $50 deductable except for the belts, which was $50. I try to change the belts at 50k if at all possible. I know they will last longer than that but I feel this is good insurance. The same with batteries, I try to change between the 4th and 5th year on a good battery. They never give out in the garage where you can get it re started and to a mechanic to have it replaced or replace it yourself. It is always in a parking garage or on the street somewhere.
I also took the 95 in for a coolant flush and have the belts replaced on it. It has 100k on it. I had the belts replaced on it about 50k also. Since I had the '95 oil leak repaired, the oil consumption went from 1200 miles to about 3000 miles. I didn't have to add any this last oil change. I have a thumping and a screeching noise from the front end on the '95. The mechanic at the Olds place said it was carrier bushings. They are ordering them. I'll let you know if that takes care of my front end noises.
Now to the problem,
any opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
My car is a 95 with 85K. It developed a misfire quite suddenly and it is a persistant bugger. It seems to happen only during part throttle acceleration and it seems like one plug goes out with light acc. and two plugs with harder acceleration. All the posts about misfire say to replace Plugs, wires, coils, and sometimes the fuel pressure regulator. (in that order?) I have gone so far as replacing the plugs (standard AC's) with double platinum ones with no change. I think the next step may be to replace the wires but the wires are only 25K miles old. (replaced by the dealer when I bought the car due to a misfire, I wonder if the dealer put in the AC's) Is there a way to test coils without purchasing one and swaping it about? How about testing the FPR? Does anyone have problems with the plug wires arcing everywhere? Seems like I have a lot of arc tracings. (Maybe I should just spend the bucks and replace the wires) Are there better wire sets out there, other than genuine GM, that will resist arcing better and still fit?
Love the Aurora, just wish it would be smooth again.
I'm thinking of going to true dual exhaust. Are there any reasons not to do this? Any info will be appreciated.
Thanks , Jim from Ohio
Just get an STS Corsa cat-back and modify it for the Aurora. You will be pleased just the same.
Anyone ever have the HVAC fan go on high and not switch off? I have had it happen several times in cold humid weather and can only shut it off by pulling the 30A fuse under the rear seat. It even stays on with the key out!
My service manual say either the HVAC programmer or blower relay but I wanted to see what it may be before spending big $$$. Thanks.
Something to think about- I also had to replace the coolent tank due to the stuck coolant switch turning the fans on at 160. You may want to hook it back up as I suspect the PCM may limit the amount of spark timing advance in this mode and you might be loosing power...
The moonroof will raise up fine. When it goes down and back, it hangs on the roof just enough to keep it from moving by itself. You can just push on it a little from outside and it will go down and back perfect. Just wondering if it needs adjusting or something.
Another thing, over the past couple months or so, there is kind of a whirring sound (best description I can think of) coming from the passenger side of motor. Could this be intake noise or a.c. compressor or power steering? My a.c. is not blowing cold, compressor kicking in and out, but I know low charge will cause this.
Would appreciate any help and suggestions.
Thank, David
.... sorry... couldn't resist....
Jim
Check out my post #171 for more info.
It chould be covered under a GM Warranty, I hope you have some type of extended warranty at 87,000 miles.
Let us know how it turns out for you.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
I would try unplugging the lead and useing some contact cleaner on it, then plugging and unplugging it several time to get a good connection as the first and hopefully last step.