Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

rjs200240

That's two words...

One word would have been trade-in.

cwiley1

blkboyinaz---I have a '95 which I just got back from the Olds dealer for fixing the oil leak. It was covered under my warranty. They charged me for 20 hours of labor and parts. Labor was $1500 and the parts were $340. I have only had it back for about a week, so far no drips. They also said only put in 7.5 qts of oil with filter change. No more than it was leaking I would never have had the oil leak repaired if it weren't covered by the warranty. They do have a sealer that is supposed to stop the leak. I talked to a neighbor that had this done, it lasted about 2 years before it started leaking again. I have 97k on my '95.

Henry

Hmm, guess who had a perfect score on his SAT's.

Now is SAT one word or three??

(smile)

garnes

I haven't noticed that as a common problem here. Under warranty, I noticed some oil slowly making it's way down the sides of the pan, so I had the dealer fix it. They had to "drop" the engine to get at the pan and gasket. They said they repaired a leak from somewhere else as well - I'll have to check that out. The engine was not disassembled though. I guess it can leak oil from various places - some more troublesome to repair than others.

Even though I never had a drip on the floor, I still had it fixed. So far - perfect.

larryfl

I am experiencing a killer oil leak in my '95. Appears to be coming from the "rear" main seal. I've put in 2 quarts since the last oil change. I did add a can of GUNK stop leak and that has seemed to slow it down.

I can only imagine how expensive it will be to repair. I'm scared to find out.

ottoracefan

Do you know what the name of the oil leak sealer is? My '95 is leaking but I sure don't want to spend $2k to fix it.

cwiley1

They didn't have to disassemble my engine but they did have to raise it up and drop the transmission. Cadillac has the same problems with their Northstars. I watched them do the work. The Northstar engines are made differently. From the bottom of the block there is a 3" spacer and then the oil pan. There are gaskets between the block and the spacer and then again between the spacer and the pan. The expansion and contraction of the engine eventually causes it to leak. I didn't see much oil on my garage floor but you could see it on the bottom of the engine when I changed oil and filter.

ottoracefan----I don't know the name of the sealer but your Olds service does. They told me about it. It is a high heat resistant sealer I'm sure.

steinhau

I've cured the following problem: Engine will crank 8-10 sec when hot and sitting for between 30 minutes and 8 hours. Starts fine in the moring or after a brief stop. Seems that this is a common problem. A new Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) fixed this. You can pay the $147.- list price at the dealer or $ 78.- at AutoZone. The replacement is easy and takes about 10 minutes. However, be careful.. since the fuel line is pressurized, you'll have to relieve the pressure before you swap FPR out.

loveolds

Finally, I followed the advice of several folks on this board regarding changing the Fuel Pressure Regulator to fix my "hard start" problems. My car has 83,000 miles on the meter.

Needless to say, it works, my aRoara is starting and running great once more!

I paid $96 bucks for the part and $54 for the labor with my regular mechanic. Since he wasn't getting any error codes, he was in a trial and error mode looking to fix the problem. At my suggestion, (I wouldn't take no for an answer after reading the Aurora boards), he put in the new regulator. Voila!

Thanks to all and happy aRoara motoring!

rollisix

I bought this vehicle 3 weeks ago, 3.5 engine, 24,000 miles on and test drove it for a week before purchasing.
No problems. A week after, noticed rough idle at stop lights, stops, parked, etc. I took it in, dealership cleaned fuel injectors, told me to run a full tank of gas through and suggested next oil change to put injector guard in. I don't need an oil change for awhile and am on second tank of gas, and the rough idle is still there. No hard start or stalling problems. I talked to one other owner who had this problem, but his dealership was unable to fix thus far.

mike98c

More info.please. Does it idle rough warm and cold, does the tachometer waver up and down by several hundred r.p.m. or stay steady etc. did the dealer check for a vacuum leak and the idle control motor? How about the shortstars fuel pressure regulator. Damaged plug wire or coil? Does it miss or hesitate upon acceleration?

rollisix

It idles rough warm and cold, tach does not move it stays steady,dealer did not check anything else. It does not miss or hesitate upon acceleration, however, since this became noticable, I did experience a miss or some type of small jerk while driving about 2 weeks ago, I don't recall if I was giving it gas while driving or cruising at the time, it hasn't done that since however, I wasn't sure at the time what it was. There is a NHTSA bulletin #020604019, regarding engine idle speed stability, hard or no restart or decel engine stall, but not sure if this is the same thing. I was trying to determine if it was more noticeable in park, neutral, reverse, but couldn't determine today. Thanks for your time.

aurora5000

Shouldn't you have GM warranty coverage? Take it to a dealership?

cwiley1

SES light--Replaced my EGR valve. I now have approximately 1k miles on the new EGR valve and I don't have the rough idling and dying problem.

Oil consumption--I had new seals and gaskets installed about 1500 miles ago. I have made 2 trips to Northeast Kansas (approx 600 miles) and it didn't use any oil.

This was in my '95 and it has the dipstick that should be replaced. I put 7.5 qts of oil in and it reads a half quart low. I have always added oil to keep in on the MAX line. That may have something to do with using oil also. My '97 when I put in 7.5 qts it is on the MAX line. I'm like RJS, how can you get a true reading on a hot engine when you still have oil up in the engine. I have always checked my oil when the engine was cold, usually the first thing in the morning every 2 or 3 weeks.

auroratex

Our '98 Aurora has developed a high-pitched squeal in the engine compartment. It fades away when the engine is being accelerated. So, it appears to be a vacuum leak. It eventually developed into a very load squeal. I identified the general area of the squeal using an empty tube of christmas wrap. It appeared to be close to where the throttle-body mounts to the engine. A friend of mine started spraying wd-40 around this area and the squealing was greatly reduced but did not cease completely.

Could this be some type of leaky gasket? A pin-hole in the throttle-body? I can affect the pitch of the squeal by working the A/C vents.

Henry

You sure it is not coming from the passeneger sid door air vent?

mike98c

Did you take the grey engine cover off so you had better acess to the hoses and the throttle body?

stickking1

My 95 has just started to produce a strange drone from the front of the vehicle in the last two days. To describe it, I would compare it to the sound of a manual tranny when you downshift too soon, that kind of steady drone. But the noise is pretty faint. I have to have the radio off and the fan off to hear it. Its coming from the front of the car, but I can't tell if it is the engine bay specifically.
   It does not seem to be related with the engine idle speed, I even shut the car off in nuetral while cruising and could still hear it. The drone does change pitch with the speed that the car is traveling. There is no change when I rev the engine, or downshift to a different gear while driving. The only change comes when I am crusing at a speed and slow down. I can't hear it when I speed up, because the engine noise covers it up. And there is no noise when I am parked, only when moving. If anyone has an experience that's similar, or has any ideas I would appreciate the help. If I left out some info, let me know. By the way, she has 145,000 miles on her. Thanks!

pizza442

Well, if it is speed related and not engine-trans-exhaust (rpm) related, that leaves rotating parts--wheels and related AND wind related. So my thought would be something up front buzzing or humming like a rag caught underneath the car or maybe a part of the airducting under the car has come unsnapped and is vibrating with the airflow.
Or a wheel bearing going out or sticking caliper.
Jay

sinatra2

Pizza is more than likely right. Does the drone change pitch when steering either right or left? Does it change pitch when the suspension is tested over a moderately bumpy road? If either of these occurs it is probably a wheel bearing , a damaged drive axle or CV seal or the CV joint itself. A visual check of your tires and rotor / caliper assembly should also be done. I do believe you can eliminate your tranny and engine causing the problem.

Cheers

sinatra2

could also be the warning indicators on the front brake pads vibrating against the rotor.

stickking1

The drone does not change pitch or volume when the brakes are applied, or when the wheel is turned right or left. I just replaced the brake pads all around about 1000 miles ago, and all calipers looked good to me. I haven't noticed a change in the sound on a bumpy road either. About a month ago, I was getting my "traction active" light on dry road conditions (I wasn't losing traction). It even flashed once or twice while I was sitting still. Only would come on for a second or two though...maybe they are related? I go in for an alignment and rotation tomorrow, maybe they'll notice something at the shop. Any more ideas, send them my way. Thanks guys

sinatra2

Sounds as though it is the wheel bearing as the speed sensor is part of the assembly. The speed sensor activates the anti lock brakes and the traction control. This might explain the traction active light coming on when on dry roads.

mbiernacki

Suddendly in my 95 Aurora something started to smell. It's smells like a dead fish:) Moreover there is a lot of fatty fog on all windows. I noticed a smoke (or steam) coming from the holes under from window. Please help me!

Thx
Mike

hammen2

Is it possible your heater core is going/gone?

mbiernacki

How can I check it myself? The nearest Oldsmobile dealer is about 10 kmiles from my home:))))

mbiernacki

I forgot it in previous message. I noticed that engine temperature is very high. It is about 250F. Any ideas?

Regards
Mike

mbiernacki

Hi,

I found a lot of water on the floor in front of passanger door. When I left a car a few ours ago it was dry (and the engine was hot). Now - I walked for a walk with my dog and I found this water (and the engine is cold). What can it be???

Mike

larryfl

It sounds to me like your heater core gave up the ghost. I assume the water you found is antifreeze inside the car on the passenger side floorboard. If so, you're heater core definitely sprung a leak.

The heater core is a mini-radiator usually positioned under the dash on the passenger side of the car. Coolant/water from the hot engine is routed through it to heat the air for your heater before the coolant/water goes to the main radiator for cooling.

A leak would cause all of your symptoms, Smell of hot engine coolant (or dead fish, same thing); water puddled on your passenger floorboard; and engine running hotter for lack of coolant.

I'm afraid it's not a particularly cheap fix. Removing and Replacing the heater core can be pretty labor intensive.

Good Luck.

mbiernacki

Larry - in fact it is a heater problem (I have just removed this fluit from passangers floor). Could you tell me what is the proper way to remove a heater. Where can I find it? Should I remove a dash?

Regards
Mike

larryfl

Mike:

I wish I could help, but I've never replaced one. I did have one replaced in a car I owned many years ago (20?) and so I know the symptoms, anyway.

I can tell you that the part itself looks just like a small radiator - maybe about half the size of the steering wheel, for example - and it's usually enclosed in a plastic box-like container that would have to be removed to access it. Also, you might try looking in the engine compartment for two small radiator hoses going through the firewall to the interior of the car. They actually connect to the heater core. These are the heater hoses that route the coolant to the core. The heater core would probably be mounted against the firewall on the inside of the car where the hoses go through.

I would guess it's behind the dashboard, but before you start tearing it all apart maybe someone else on this board can give you better instructions on what do look for and how to get to it. Sorry I can't help any more.

Larry

larryfl

Mike:

One more idea. If you need to drive the car and are not able to do the repair, you could bypass the heater core. If you located the two heater hoses in the engine compartment I mentioned before, you could remove them from the engine and run a new hose (or a length of one of the existing hoses if you have enough) to loop back to the engine (from the engine - to the engine), completely bypassing the firewall and heater core. That can be done pretty easily and quickly.

This will allow you to drive the car with no leaks, but you won't have any water to the heater, so it won't get warm. But, at least you'd have your car!

stickking1

Hey guys, just got back from my local Firestone shop and guess what, it is the front wheel bearing...but that's not all, it's both of them. Strange that they both went at the same time. I wouldn't believe it unless I checked it out myself up on the lift. So guess what I'll be doing this Sunday?..you got it. I've done this job before, but not on the Aurora. If anyone has any personal experience, I'd appreciate the tips. Thanks!
P.S. On my way back to pick up my car, my brother's Bonneville blew a head gasket...now how is that for luck?

autobahn95

hi
i have first hand experience replacing both front wheel bearings on my 95 Aurora. The job is quite simple if you have the proper tools.
feel free to email me if you have any questions.
SPRINT28@aol.com
good luck!

mike98c

From my references. Wire brush lightly then use a penetrant on the drive axle threads, Let soak in well. Raise vehicle under frame & let the control arms dangle free. Remove wheel Remove drive axle nut (stick screwdriver into caliper and rotor to keep from turning), unbolt caliper and move to side, support with wire. Remove rotor, unplug ABS sensor and unclip from dust shield. Remove (3) hub & bearing retaining bolts & dust shield. Seperate hub & bearing assem. from axle (easier with puller) reverse to install. Torque settings. Hub bolts 70 lbs., caliper bolts 38lbs., axle nut 107 lbs.

Henry

Sounds like its time to invest in the service manual for the car. Just a suggestion. Henri

mike98c

Henry's right, if you have trouble obtaining a manual, alldatadiy.com has a 14.95 year subscription that includes a online service manual with diagrams plus all technical service bulletins for your year and make of car, and dealer mechanics labor time guidelines for the replacement of a part. The difficulty factor is also rated as well as parts no.s for any tools needed.

mbiernacki

Thx. I did it and it looks that it will help me solving my problems.

Regards
Mike

stickking1

   Hey everyone. Replaced both wheel bearings yesterday and the sound is gone. Boy, you should've seen 'em, they both just broke apart when removed. Funny how they all of a sudden began making noise in the past 4 days...you could tell they were long gone.
   But I have to tell you, something didn't look right with my halfshaft on the passenger side, not to mention the control arm bushing on that same side is shot...I'm afraid that I may be working on her again in the next few weeks. Keep you fingers crossed.

garnes

A friend at work with a 99 said that sometimes the car is hard to start. First thing in the morning is OK, and if it sits just a little it's OK. Seems to be if it sits for an intermediate amount of time.

Is this the FPR thing???? I know this one has been discussed a lot here.

Thanks.

mike98c

Yup sounds like it could be. The fuel leaks past the diaphram slowly and pools in the intake manifold. Mine got to the point it would crank and crank and then backfire no doubt irritating my neighbors when I pulled out at 4:30 A.M. But before it got to that point, when the car was still warm it didn't want to start if I left it over an hour. If I waited at least five or six hours, it would start right up. Has he pulled the little vacuum hose of the regulator and checked for gas? I could smell it before I even bent over to check on mine. But I waited longer than I should have before I saw one of the posts on this problem. By the way the dealer was mumbling (not the one I go to anymore) about replacing a crank sensor and SEEING if that cured the problem. I don't think they checked any codes. Of course this is the same dealer whose service department couldn't get the back seat bottom latched charged me ten bucks and said it was defective or bent. The caddy dealer laughed and showed mo how it popped right in, and offered to vacuum my car FREE.

800wattaurora

Sounds right to me. Replaced that about a year ago, same problem. Now at 95K my baby is acting up again, like the new radiator and egr I gave it just last month wasn't enough, now she's want's something else. Starting to heisitate/stutter some of the time at any rpm. I guess it's missing. It'll happen while idling or giving it the gas. Just dosen't rip like she used to, now it stutters/stumbles I guess. Dosen't happen all the time either. Sometime drives great. What's the deal guys, Is this the end ignition coil pack going south due to the high temp under hood deal? Which end goes bad? Anybody have this done who has the price paid? Am I better off replacing all 4?

Looks like I might be able to do myself, there right there on top in the back. I'm a good part swapper.
RULE #1-DON'T DROP ANYTHING!!!
The printing trade is teaching me well.

garnes

Henry

Are you sure it is not just and ignition wire? I had one go bad and the carwould miss/stutter every now and then.

                  ----- Just a thought.

mike98c

I just helped guy at work replace wire set that was original to car. We put on half set of Bosch after putting in new plugs before starting front half. Thats when we realized we needed to regap new plugs which were set to far open. We pulled wires from back bank by the tabs and lo and behold, two of the wires left the metal contact inserts behind on the plugs! We looked at the ones on my car and you can see the new ones are made differently. The new ones are crimped like a cheap electrical connector and while I dont know how the old ones are retained, I can do know the metal feels like a thinner guage to me when you squeeze the wires.

ottoracefan

I had similar stuttering/missing symptoms. Replaced plugs and wires, it got better. Switched out coils one at a time, starting on the passenger side. No change until I got to the drivers side - - that cured it.

The coils are the same as many late model GM cars so you can get them anywhere for $35-40 each new. I installed a used one I had lying around, it works great.

blk97aurora

800watt:

Replacing the coils is fairly straitforward. Each is held in place by two machine screws. The cap hex may be metric, but I found that a 7/32" socket fits very well. Space is tight, so 1/4" drive is the way to go, with a short extension and fine-tooth ratchet.

You may find the boots difficult to remove from the towers; don't pull on the wires unless you are planning to replace them. I was able to use a screwdriver to push up against the edge of the boots to break them loose.

A problem I encountered is that the screws are long and need MANY turns to clear the threads in the aluminum plate. I am impatient and my wrists aren't as supple as they used to be, so I ended up buying a miniature 1/4"-drive air ratchet for the job. It is definitely not required, but I was pleased to have it.

pizza442

Decided to check the diff on the stick between cold oil in the morning (58* outside) and after being driven 20 min. on the freeway and then sitting for 15 minutes (definately was STILL good and hot!):
First of all, when I last changed the oil 1300 miles ago, I believe it measured about in the middle of the stick (7.5 qts). I added a qt. since then, about 100 miles ago; first a 1/2 qt. to see how high it came up, then the second half which brought it up to just above half-stick (checked hot ea. time, 10+ min. at rest)
Now, back to the experiment: cold oil registered only on the 'bulb' end or bottom of the stick, up to the first (add?) line. Hot oil 15 miles later and after a 15 min. sit, measured at the next notch up above the cold measurement! Double checked it. So it is my belief that the hot oil-check recommendation is valid.
Jay
BTW, mine is a 95 and might have the 'orig' improperly sized dip stick that there was an old TSB-bulliton out on.

800wattaurora

Blk97, thanks for that, I'll definitly do it myself. I'm just guessing that's the problem. Had new wires and plugs 14K ago at 80,000. Just assuming the coils are the colpurit as I check off the common problems with these cars. Only have AC comp. and tranny left to go. Made sure that was covered in my recent 3yr warrenty I bought. So coils cost 35-40 each? ACdelco replacement I'm assuming. I should probably just replace all 4 at once and be done with it.

Another problem, Sometimes when your driving along, have you ever heard a "CLUNK" and than everything is fine. Coming from engine bay area. It's pretty loud. Can't really feel it, but you can hear it. My girlfriend just heard my car make this noise and asked "what the heck was that? That sounded terriable" Haven't found a pattern to it yet. Could happen at any rpm, even sitting. Happens once every couple of days. Guessing maybe the tranny. If it is, hello autobaun upgrade. Dealer will do it for me and program with a different, vin#, I all ready asked them this before. So anyone every hear this THUNK before their tranny gave out?

garnes

As long as I've visited here I can't remember a tranny going out. Perhaps one. I've sometimes heard that this can be a problem area, but have not even seen the anecdotal stories about it. I think they are pretty strong (I just cursed mine by saying that).