Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like your oil dipstick is different. I'm amazed at all the differing readings. So far all the dealers say 8. Yeah, anything more than 8 is definitely not a good idea.
Sorry about the lumbar. Has to be electrical. Actually reading that was kind of funny - just inflating on it's own. Of course I would not be laughing if it was me.
I think Henry needs to add here about the loose steering. I think he has been through this.
Kayaman, I have a '95 as well and know the fog problem you're talking about. Generally, I have more problems with the side windows than the windsheild. The most effective way I've found is to forget about the defroster and use the vents in the door panels...just close off the middle vent to give you more air to the door and aim them at the windows. Make sure the AC is on as well.
Nothing very useful, the reason it happens in cold weather more is probably the same reason that peop[les horns will blow by themselves in cold weather, everything contracts in the cold weather forcing the switch contacts together I don't know if this has any bearing on the problem.
Dcook4, get thy fuel pressure regulator replaced ASAP! Your present one is leaking and can potentially start the car on fire if you don't get this repaired ASAP!
Hope this helps,
--Robert
P.S. Didn't someone on this board have the leaky FPR cause their engine cover to be blown off?
The wires for the heated seats, lumbar controls, etc. are very thin, and run through a small harness in the door. The stress of opening/closing the door tends to cause these thin wires to eventually break/work intermittently. It's very possible that's why your lumbar support is inflating "randomly". I'd run new wires to the switch (and do the heated seats, etc. if you have them - may as well) and see if this fixes your problem.
I just got my '95 back from the Olds service dept. I took it in because when I had the oil changed last week we found a coolant leak along with an oil leak. I thought the coolant leak was coming from the water pump so I took it to the Olds dealer for warranty work. I have the American Guardian from warrantybynet.com. The coolant leak was coming from the water pump housing to the block gasket. The engine oil leak was from the crankcase gaskets and the other oil leak was from the transmission electrical case connector and side cover. The Olds dealer had the car for 9 days. I just get the car back this evening. The dealer really had a hard time with the warranty company, they told me they would never accept that company again from anybody for any warranty work. I talked to the mechanic doing the work about the amount of oil he will put back in my car and he said the Northstar, both Cadillac and Olds, takes 7.5 qts when adding a new filter or 7 qts without the filter. He said to check the oil when the engine is at normal temp. and read the low side of the dipstick.
I asked him how the inside of the oil pan looked, whether it had much sludge or metal particles. He said it was the cleanest oil pan he had ever seen for having 96k miles. I told him I have always used synthetic oil and changed it every 6k miles or 6 months. I install a new oil filter every 3k or 3 months. I did tell him that it started using oil about 20k miles ago. I told him to keep the oil on the full mark after each oil change it took 8.5 qts. He said that was to much oil and it was being sucked out.
Took it out for a test spin tonight and it appeared to run fine.
Anybody considering a warranty company should think twice before buying American Guardian from warrantybynet.com.
stickking1-you described my problem perfectly. I also use the door vents the way you suggested. My problem was that I was not using the A/C. I was trying to find other ways because in any other car ive owned I never had the A/C turn on along with the derfost. I see that it is necassary for this car.
I was wondering if anyone has found an inexpensive scan tool(under $200 or so) that is compatible with the 1995 Aurora. The only one I'm aware of is the Tech 1 which is well over $1000.
Sorry to hear about the warrenty problem cwiley1. I just bought one off the net this week. Mileage is currently 91450 and still got a 3yr/36K. Went through Warrenty Wizard/Platinum. Lot of looking for my high mileage 96. Need to wait 15 days and 500 miles before my first claim. I'll try to hold out as long as possible, Just last week I started her up and it said low coolant. Shut off, and almost bone dry. I've noticed a very small stain in my driveway, losses about the size of a quarter every 12 hrs. The leak isn't visable from the engine bay, underneith some where. Sigh. Going to my dads work this week and put it up on a lift and check it out. Hopefully it's nothing serious. Hopefully it's just a loose clamp or split in a hose.
Oil changes, I usally go to jiffy lube. I always stand next to my car and watch them do EVERYTHING! I always have them put in 8 quarts and we look at the stick together. Maybe next time I'll just put in 7.5 and check the next day. Anyways, I stand there making sure they don't mess anything up. Sometimes they've only put in 5 and started caping it up. So this time everything is going routinely, after the change, start up. I'm standing infront and see a nice stream of oil coming down, I YELL to the guy, shut it off. another 3 seconds later he hears me and by now the stream is spreading into a rusty gutter leak. big sigh. After a couple of minutes of playing stupid, (they were winning), it turned out to be a bad gasket on the oil filter. What a fun time. I don't think any harm was done, engine ran for about 5 seconds and lost 2 quarts. So looking for this coolant leak should be fun with all the extra wet oil spots.
Garnes, you make me laugh. "Well, when it says 260, it's really 195, when it says half tank, it's really full - it's supposed to work that way." I do feel that way about my gas gauge. Half tank is really less than that. Anybody else in a classic notice that when you top the tank off (w/premium I hope) That the gauge will stay on Full for a while once it reaches the first notch down, it drops like I rock. Knowing that you can dirve around on full for a couple days, than it just drops every day after. I can't be the only one. Garnes, in this case, it's supposed to work that way. lol
My '95 is the same way, it stays on full for a long time then drops rapidly. It will stay on full for the first 125 miles before it starts to come off of the full mark. When it reads half full it only has about 6 to 7 gallons left in the tank. My '97 appears to drop off as the miles increase.
AC in the winter--I was told by the Olds dealer after he had to replace my compressor that I should let it run all the time including the winter time. That way it will keep the seals soft, etc. He said if it gets to cold the compressor won't kick in anyway. It has a bypass on it. So that is what I do, haven't had any fogging problems yet.
I have found that the rip from a full tank to a half tank is pretty reasonable. For the trip from a half to a quarter, it gains speed. The trip from the first yellow bar (aka "low fuel" on DIC) empty is at warp speed. Warp 8.5 to be exact.
I have noticed that if I put just a few gallons ($5.00) in the tank I am back to 1/2 full. So yes I think you have less than 9 gallons in the tank when the gauge says half full. I am assuming all you Aurorians know we have an 18 gallon tank.
Henri
- Steering wheel - I believe there is a plastic ring in the steering colume that warps and causes the colum to become loose. In my case it happend on my 85 Cutlass Ciera and was caused by me pulling on the wheel when I got out of the car. In the Cutlass there was a way to titen it up again. I would searh for the phrase "pulling on wheel" to see wht postings on this issue.
- The 95's have a passenger button instead of air recirculation button. the dash is one of the few ways you can tell the years apart on the Classic. The dash and the style of the seat belts distingush 95, 96 and 97-99.
- Are there any other visual clues that allow you to tell what year Aurora you are looking at??
I had a loose steering wheel on my '95. It's the tilt mechanism that loosens up over time (moved about 1 - 1.5 inches diagonally up and down). My mechanic tightened it up like new pretty easily. I think you drop the bottom steering column cover and there are some bolts that just need tightening. No big deal.
Every car I've had does the accelerated drop toward the end. I think it's because of the shape of the tank. For an exaggerated example - look at a funnel. The volume is much larger on the top half than the bottom. I think the gauge is still just relating a level in the tank, so the corresponding volume may not be exactly right. This is just my guess.
I guess I'll be using 7.5 to 7.75 on the oil from now on. Although with dealers saying 8 as well as a lot of other people, it doesn't seem that the an additional 1/2 quart is a big deal or it would be causing problems. Thanks for everybody sharing on this. However I still think this is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of from GM - manual says 7, stick says 8, some people "in the know" say 7.5. It's just criminally stupid.
Yesterday, I disconnected the plug to the IAC and measured the voltage across the pins with my digital voltmeter. I set it to 20 volts DC. The reading I got - and I don't know how accurate it would be because of the digital read-out response on the meter - was fluctuating between +2.5 and -2.5 volts at the rate of about one cycle per second. Any comments? I called the dealer and they have to order a new IAC which costs about $95. I also understand that this unit recieves its commands from the ECM. Is that different from the "PCM"?
My problem started at once. I found my PCM to be at fault not my FPR like people told me...... How I came to my solution was my engine light never came on when the key was in the on position. I found a PCM for $105 brand new. E-Mail me private and I will talk to you personally E-Mail is dpence@crpud.net
Does any know the part number for the lightbulbs that are located behind the dash cluster?
And does anyone know were on the internet can you purchase these bulbs, which are about the same size as the 194 wedge bulbs but, these bulbs come with their own socket style plastic base.
I had replaced all five bulbs with L.E.D. bulbs but, I found out that with these below degree weather in the Midwest, my town of Evanston, Ill.
The LED's have trouble lighting up in very cold weather, so I have decided to go back to the standard lightbulbs for now.
I finally pulled them out yesterday and found the size for these bulbs which are a PC195, I also called my local Olds dealer and these bulbs run for $8.00 each, these other GM dealer quoted me at $10.00 each.
I did a trip to my local auto part store like AutoZone and PepBoys, and no of them carried that style of bulb.
After some internet research, I found a website that carries any and all types of lightbulbs for cars, so I wrote them on e-mail and finally yesterday I placed on order for 7 of these bulbs, with a way lower price than at the dealers.
I also came up on these while pulling out my dash, 2 lightbulbs were missing from inside the information bar were the Check Engine, Security and Traction lights turn on.
I believe the bulbs were for the ABS and something else, I will definatelly place a bulb in there, maybe they were suppose to have there in the beginning.
blk97aurora since you live New Jersey you might want to wait till the nicer weather comes around, I think it gets pretty cold up there too.
If anyone knows what this problem can be your help would be appreciated.
Lately when I first start my car(95) in the morning and put it in gear for the first time it violently slams into gear. This only happens for the first start of the day and then all is fine. This only happens if the weather is below 30 degrees and it doesnt matter if I try reverse or drive it still does it. But I have found that if I warm the car up for a long time it doesnt do it. The transmission is still very strong and I do not have any other type of problem with it what so ever. Only when it is cold.
Transmisson: My first (and only) sugestion would be to be sure your car isn't idling high when you shift into gear. You mentioned it only happened when you first started it cold in very cold weather. If your cold start idle is upwards of 1500 or more, that could cause it to "slam" into gear. You'd want to wait until it idled down a bit.
I took my Aurora to yet another dealer today. This one tells me the park-neutral switch is bad. I ask, "What does that have to do with stalling?". Answer, "All we know is the computer says there's a bad park-neutral switch." Again I ask, "Will replacing that fix the stalling?" "Yes". $240. I said go ahead. If that doesn't fix the stalling, I am stopping the check. Can anyone tell me how to get in touch with a local or regional General Motors office or rep? I am really at the end of my rope here. I can't believe a $35,000 car could have such a problem that NOBODY can find.
Kayaman402- Once again, you've described another problem that my 95 and I share. One difference: My car only does that when shifting into reverse first thing in the morning. Shifting into drive holds no problems for me. I have tried to combat the problem by either backing into my parking spot(so I shift right into drive in the morning)..or shifting into drive first, then putting it into reverse to back out of my spot. That usually does the trick. If your car is doing this when shifting into both drive and reverse, try to experiment with the gears. It might sound funny, but try to shift into drive...wait a sec, then shift into reverse. Or 3rd and reverse, or 2nd then reverse, etc. Not much of a cure for you, but maybe it'll help you live with the problem, at least until it gets warmer. Cold weather always brings out the problems in these cars(except for the heated seats :-) ) Good luck!
When my 95 was slamming into gear it was a sensor/relay problem. Took it to the dealer and "all gone." If you were in New Jersey I would tell you to take the car to Norman Gale Olds near Morristown.
Guess what loveolds, I'm also from the DC area and I am having the same problem. My Aurora has 77,000 miles on it. I took it in to get it serviced and they ended up replacing the battery and "taking out the bad codes." Still didn't solve anything. Then I was told that I might need my fuel injectors cleaned. That didn't help either. Now they are telling me that it could be the fuel pressure sensor, a badly needed tune-up, bad fuel injectors, or a bad PCM. Has anybody else had this problem???
I went to get my Aurora today after waiting nearly 4 days for the dealer to fix it. The bill was $270 to replace the Neutral switch, and to remove, clean, and reinstall the IAC. The service guy said that one of the pins on the Neutral switch connector had been bent and wasn't making contact. How this affected the stalling I will probably never know - and perhaps the simple cleaning of the IAC was the cure. In any event, this Aurora owner is once again happy, and I hope anyone else with the same problem can benefit from my experiences. Thank you all for your help.
Well I changed my oil and I put 7 qts. in plus what ever the filter holds. The next day I checked the level after a 8 mile drive in 70* weather and letting is sit for 5 minutes. Came up to the mark just below half way on the dipstick. I figure I will just leave it there and then won't add anything 'till it reaches just below the add line at the bottom of the stick. At that time I will add 1 qt. and see where it goes on the stick. Jay
I put KYB struts up front a few months ago and LOVE THEM! Highly recommended. Unfortunately, I seem to have something weird going on in the rear. The car's rear--not mine.
When I go around a corner, either left or right, there is a click, click sound coming from the back suspension, just as I'm ready to correct the wheel. Everything seems to be working okay as far as the load leveling feature is concerned. Although, I think it's usefulness is limited.
Thanks to all who posted before about my previous problems. my SES light was coming on due to a bad mass air flow sensor. Had that checked at AUto Zone for free. So..gettting that replaced soon. My car died on me about two weeks ago due to a plugged fuel line, which in turn killed my fuel pump. sucker costs about 700 to replace. This is my first and last american car. And now..more problems! Now it appears my fuel tank/lines have a leak. I filled my car up with gas about 24 hours ago, and today got in it to drive to work, and it had a STRONG gas smell, and my gas gauge was down to almost empty. Put in 10 bucks, drove 2 miles, and it's almost down to empty again..( and no, gas isn't 8 bucks a gallon). So, is it possible that the new fuel pump/filter is to blame? Maybe got put in wrong? Should i take it to the repair facility that put those in and yell at them?
I guess I was close with the fuel pump thing afterall. Although it sounds like a chicken or the egg thing (did pump go first or did the clog come first).
There was a posting awhile back about bad fuel lines. I never had the problem on my 95.
Aurora is a performance car with cutting edge technology for its time. (this car has a sensor for everything) As a rule high tech performance cars are tempermental sometimes.
Actually I should have said add 1/2 qt. to see where it goes on the stick. As with just about everything else in this thread, I question if it is actually 1qt. from the add line to the max line.
I have owned a lot of autos in my day but this particular part on our Auroras has created the most conversation in our town hall. It is certainly the true definition of the word. The good news is there is no sensor needed. In fact you can't make sense reading it.
After installing a new PCM (same prom) My car was running good for a couple of weeks. I noticed my charging system was only putting out 12.7 volts versus 14.8v. I replaced the altenator with a new Bosch unit $250 no change involtage. Going to take the old one in for bench test. After a couple of days with the new alt. my v dropped down to 9v within a min.and killed the car no battery light just a warnig from DIC. no engine light. This is a quote I read in Caddy info. In the "old days" the 'L' or 'Lamp' terminal of the voltage regulator was connected directly to the lamp in the instrument cluster. When the regulator detected a fault, it would switch the terminal to ground, illuminating the lamp. The terminal is now used for bidirectional control between the PCM and the regulator. The PCM uses the 'L' terminal to switch on the regulator (so that the generator charges), and the regulator uses the terminal to communicate faults to the PCM. The PCM, in turn, sends a serial data message to the body electronics, informing them of the low state of the 'L' terminal. This should ordinarily cause the telltale to switch on. Can anyone verify this. I know my battery is good and I assume the altenator is good I already checked all wiring and cables. I'm going to try and see if my PCM came w/ a warranty and by a new prom. Sorry so long
Well, I took mine in to my trusty mechanic - Chantilly Goodyear, and after he spent two days reading computer codes (he was getting an error code on the PCM), he also found a leak by the intake manifold. Telling me that MIGHT be the problem, I forked over $300 for a new intake manifold gasket (4 hours of labor). Guess what, the car started great for about a week, but this past weekend, grind, grind, grind.
Each of us probably has a mechanic that you trust and has done good by your Aurora. Can we just post our locations so that fellow Aurorians know where we are. That way if a guy is in New Jersey (like me) he can ask me where I take my car.
check in - Henri, New Jersey, 1995 autobahn with 80K
I walked into hubcap haven, the major hubcap vendor I pass by each day to get a used centercap and walked out with a brand new one for $20.00, the plastic clips on the aftermarket one looks like they might survive better than the factory center caps. They're on the web.
loveolds, Were you around when the mechanic had the intake off? My car is an 95 and I notice on a couple of occasions my air leak was coming from the passenger side of the intake there is a round cover (4") that seems to screw in place. I'm assuming this is in case of a backfire. dpence
No, I wasn't around when my mechanic did the work. I take it back on Thursday the 13th for more work. I'll report back after that visit. My Aurora continues to run fine - smooth as ever, but a cold start is a bear - warm/hot starts work fine.
Don't get to secure in your thinking. After reading the comments on rough idling and dying at stop signs, my '95 decided to join them. Two days after getting my car back from the Olds dealer, the SES light came on and it started running rough and would die at the stop lights. I could turn the engine off, for a period of time and restart it and the SES light was off and it ran great. It did this for several days. I took it back to the Olds dealer to see if it was something they did. They put the code reader on and determined it was the EGR valve. It cost me $380 plus tax to get it repaired. Warranty didn't cover it. It seems to be running fine now.
I think you have recommended Norman Gale Olds. I used to take my '70 4-4-2 there when they were in Morristown, but that was many moons ago. I give them a lot of credit for sponsoring the Oldsmobile Club of America 2000 Nationals in Parsippany.
I bought my Aurora from DeFelice Olds in Point Pleasant in 1999. They have been good to me the few times my Aurora has needed warranty service.
Hey loveolds. I am still having the same starting problems. But, my car also is starting to rev hard and drop when it does finally crank up. I am considering so they can run the diagnostic and tell me what codes are showing up. From there I'll probably take it to my mechanic (Beahm's, downtown Silver Spring).
Got a 1996 aurora. I posted about a week ago with a gas smell in my car. Turns out, it was the plastic Fuel rail in the engine. That had burst, cost almost 600 to have that replaced. Happened the DAY of my inspection for my warranty! Was that bad timing or what? So, the warranty guy was out today inspecting my car. Said it looked great, and then dropped the bombshell. Said my car, v-8, 1996 Aurora has a Northstar Engine. Said those are VERY common for oil leaks, and the repair time on those oil leaks is 17 hours, because you have to pull the engine. Anyone have a aurora 95-97 and had to get an oil leak replaced? I've been looking around, and can't find much information to back up what he told me. ----------------
Did a little bit more digging around and found this:
GM EXPERIENCES OIL LEAKS AMSOIL Direct Line The upper and lower crankcase joint may leak on certain GM models due to scratches, nicks or imperfections in the upper and /or lower crankcase. In order to correct the problem, the engine must be disassembled in order to replace the crankcase seal. The repair may be covered under warranty, and if you experience a leak, refer to your local GM dealers. GM models affected: 1993 Cadillac Allante; 1994-1996 Cadillac Deville Contours; Eldorado and Seville; and 1995-1996 Oldsmobile Aurora models with the 4.0L or 4.6L V8 engines (VINs C, Y and 9).
Comments
Sorry about the lumbar. Has to be electrical. Actually reading that was kind of funny - just inflating on it's own. Of course I would not be laughing if it was me.
I think Henry needs to add here about the loose steering. I think he has been through this.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
P.S. Didn't someone on this board have the leaky FPR cause their engine cover to be blown off?
Hope this helps,
--Robert
I asked him how the inside of the oil pan looked, whether it had much sludge or metal particles. He said it was the cleanest oil pan he had ever seen for having 96k miles. I told him I have always used synthetic oil and changed it every 6k miles or 6 months. I install a new oil filter every 3k or 3 months. I did tell him that it started using oil about 20k miles ago. I told him to keep the oil on the full mark after each oil change it took 8.5 qts. He said that was to much oil and it was being sucked out.
Took it out for a test spin tonight and it appeared to run fine.
Anybody considering a warranty company should think twice before buying American Guardian from warrantybynet.com.
stickking1-you described my problem perfectly. I also use the door vents the way you suggested. My problem was that I was not using the A/C. I was trying to find other ways because in any other car ive owned I never had the A/C turn on along with the derfost. I see that it is necassary for this car.
Oil changes, I usally go to jiffy lube. I always stand next to my car and watch them do EVERYTHING! I always have them put in 8 quarts and we look at the stick together. Maybe next time I'll just put in 7.5 and check the next day. Anyways, I stand there making sure they don't mess anything up. Sometimes they've only put in 5 and started caping it up. So this time everything is going routinely, after the change, start up. I'm standing infront and see a nice stream of oil coming down, I YELL to the guy, shut it off. another 3 seconds later he hears me and by now the stream is spreading into a rusty gutter leak. big sigh. After a couple of minutes of playing stupid, (they were winning), it turned out to be a bad gasket on the oil filter. What a fun time. I don't think any harm was done, engine ran for about 5 seconds and lost 2 quarts. So looking for this coolant leak should be fun with all the extra wet oil spots.
Garnes, you make me laugh.
"Well, when it says 260, it's really 195, when it says half tank, it's really full - it's supposed to work that way."
I do feel that way about my gas gauge. Half tank is really less than that. Anybody else in a classic notice that when you top the tank off (w/premium I hope) That the gauge will stay on Full for a while once it reaches the first notch down, it drops like I rock. Knowing that you can dirve around on full for a couple days, than it just drops every day after. I can't be the only one. Garnes, in this case, it's supposed to work that way. lol
AC in the winter--I was told by the Olds dealer after he had to replace my compressor that I should let it run all the time including the winter time. That way it will keep the seals soft, etc. He said if it gets to cold the compressor won't kick in anyway. It has a bypass on it. So that is what I do, haven't had any fogging problems yet.
I have noticed that if I put just a few gallons ($5.00) in the tank I am back to 1/2 full. So yes I think you have less than 9 gallons in the tank when the gauge says half full. I am assuming all you Aurorians know we have an 18 gallon tank.
Henri
- Steering wheel - I believe there is a plastic ring in the steering colume that warps and causes the colum to become loose. In my case it happend on my 85 Cutlass Ciera and was caused by me pulling on the wheel when I got out of the car. In the Cutlass there was a way to titen it up again. I would searh for the phrase "pulling on wheel" to see wht postings on this issue.
- The 95's have a passenger button instead of air recirculation button. the dash is one of the few ways you can tell the years apart on the Classic. The dash and the style of the seat belts distingush 95, 96 and 97-99.
- Are there any other visual clues that allow you to tell what year Aurora you are looking at??
HENRI
I guess I'll be using 7.5 to 7.75 on the oil from now on. Although with dealers saying 8 as well as a lot of other people, it doesn't seem that the an additional 1/2 quart is a big deal or it would be causing problems. Thanks for everybody sharing on this. However I still think this is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of from GM - manual says 7, stick says 8, some people "in the know" say 7.5. It's just criminally stupid.
And does anyone know were on the internet can you purchase these bulbs, which are about the same size as the 194 wedge bulbs but, these bulbs come with their own socket style plastic base.
Any help on these matter is highly appreciated.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Didn't you replace those with autodynamic LED bulbs? Have you experienced problems? I bought the LED bulbs but have not installed them yet.
The LED's have trouble lighting up in very cold weather, so I have decided to go back to the standard lightbulbs for now.
I finally pulled them out yesterday and found the size for these bulbs which are a PC195, I also called my local Olds dealer and these bulbs run for $8.00 each, these other GM dealer quoted me at $10.00 each.
I did a trip to my local auto part store like AutoZone and PepBoys, and no of them carried that style of bulb.
After some internet research, I found a website that carries any and all types of lightbulbs for cars, so I wrote them on e-mail and finally yesterday I placed on order for 7 of these bulbs, with a way lower price than at the dealers.
I also came up on these while pulling out my dash, 2 lightbulbs were missing from inside the information bar were the Check Engine, Security and Traction lights turn on.
I believe the bulbs were for the ABS and something else, I will definatelly place a bulb in there, maybe they were suppose to have there in the beginning.
blk97aurora since you live New Jersey you might want to wait till the nicer weather comes around, I think it gets pretty cold up there too.
Well that's it people.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Lately when I first start my car(95) in the morning and put it in gear for the first time it violently slams into gear. This only happens for the first start of the day and then all is fine.
This only happens if the weather is below 30 degrees and it doesnt matter if I try reverse or drive it still does it. But I have found that if I warm the car up for a long time it doesnt do it.
The transmission is still very strong and I do not have any other type of problem with it what so ever. Only when it is cold.
Any Ideas???
Not much of a cure for you, but maybe it'll help you live with the problem, at least until it gets warmer. Cold weather always brings out the problems in these cars(except for the heated seats :-) ) Good luck!
stickking1- I have tried all the different ways of shifting, but nothing works.
larry-idle is normal when it does it. I believe the problem is the sensor that henri described.
(I swear this car has a sensor for everything but the ciggerette lighter. Probably has one for that too)
Jay
When I go around a corner, either left or right, there is a click, click sound coming from the back suspension, just as I'm ready to correct the wheel. Everything seems to be working okay as far as the load leveling feature is concerned. Although, I think it's usefulness is limited.
Anyone know what could be happening back there?
my SES light was coming on due to a bad mass air flow sensor. Had that checked at AUto Zone for free.
So..gettting that replaced soon.
My car died on me about two weeks ago due to a plugged fuel line, which in turn killed my fuel pump. sucker costs about 700 to replace.
This is my first and last american car.
And now..more problems!
Now it appears my fuel tank/lines have a leak. I filled my car up with gas about 24 hours ago, and today got in it to drive to work, and it had a STRONG gas smell, and my gas gauge was down to almost empty. Put in 10 bucks, drove 2 miles, and it's almost down to empty again..( and no, gas isn't 8 bucks a gallon).
So, is it possible that the new fuel pump/filter is to blame? Maybe got put in wrong? Should i take it to the repair facility that put those in and yell at them?
There was a posting awhile back about bad fuel lines. I never had the problem on my 95.
Aurora is a performance car with cutting edge technology for its time. (this car has a sensor for everything) As a rule high tech performance cars are tempermental sometimes.
cheers all
After a couple of days with the new alt. my v dropped down to 9v within a min.and killed the car no battery light just a warnig from DIC. no engine light. This is a quote I read in Caddy info.
In the "old days" the 'L' or 'Lamp' terminal of the voltage regulator was connected directly to the lamp in the instrument cluster. When the regulator detected a fault, it would switch the terminal to ground, illuminating the lamp. The terminal is now used for bidirectional control between the PCM and the regulator. The PCM uses the 'L' terminal to switch on the regulator (so that the generator charges), and the regulator uses the terminal to communicate faults to the PCM. The PCM, in turn, sends a serial data message to the body electronics, informing them of the low state of the 'L' terminal. This should ordinarily cause the telltale to switch on.
Can anyone verify this. I know my battery is good and I assume the altenator is good I already checked all wiring and cables. I'm going to try and see if my PCM came w/ a warranty and by a new prom. Sorry so long
Well, I took mine in to my trusty mechanic - Chantilly Goodyear, and after he spent two days reading computer codes (he was getting an error code on the PCM), he also found a leak by the intake manifold. Telling me that MIGHT be the problem, I forked over $300 for a new intake manifold gasket (4 hours of labor). Guess what, the car started great for about a week, but this past weekend, grind, grind, grind.
I guess its back to the shop.
LoveOlds
check in - Henri, New Jersey, 1995 autobahn with 80K
Thanks guys
Were you around when the mechanic had the intake off? My car is an 95 and I notice on a couple of occasions my air leak was coming from the passenger side of the intake there is a round cover (4") that seems to screw in place. I'm assuming this is in case of a backfire.
dpence
No, I wasn't around when my mechanic did the work. I take it back on Thursday the 13th for more work. I'll report back after that visit. My Aurora continues to run fine - smooth as ever, but a cold start is a bear - warm/hot starts work fine.
LoveOlds
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
So don't speak to soon.
Good suggestion. I live in Freehold, NJ.
I think you have recommended Norman Gale Olds. I used to take my '70 4-4-2 there when they were in Morristown, but that was many moons ago. I give them a lot of credit for sponsoring the Oldsmobile Club of America 2000 Nationals in Parsippany.
I bought my Aurora from DeFelice Olds in Point Pleasant in 1999. They have been good to me the few times my Aurora has needed warranty service.
So, the warranty guy was out today inspecting my car. Said it looked great, and then dropped the bombshell. Said my car, v-8, 1996 Aurora has a Northstar Engine. Said those are VERY common for oil leaks, and the repair time on those oil leaks is 17 hours, because you have to pull the engine.
Anyone have a aurora 95-97 and had to get an oil leak replaced? I've been looking around, and can't find much information to back up what he told me.
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Did a little bit more digging around and found this:
GM EXPERIENCES OIL LEAKS
AMSOIL Direct Line
The upper and lower crankcase joint may leak on certain GM models due to scratches, nicks or imperfections in the upper and /or lower crankcase. In order to correct the problem, the engine must be disassembled in order to replace the crankcase seal. The repair may be covered under warranty, and if you experience a leak, refer to your local GM dealers. GM models affected: 1993 Cadillac Allante; 1994-1996 Cadillac Deville Contours; Eldorado and Seville; and 1995-1996 Oldsmobile Aurora models with the 4.0L or 4.6L V8 engines (VINs C, Y and 9).
Please contact me directly at jfinn1965@yahoo.com
Stalling problem is driving me mad.
I would like direct chat
thx
T-R-A-D-E I-N