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Engine Oil Capacity:
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You all need to start reading these things too. There is just too much information for me to remember what all I've read about. And there doesn't appear to be any way to search them. That oil capacity says "crankcase capacity", but then there is a disclaimer on some that it doesn't include the filter's volume. So I don't know if that 7.5 qts is for the crank and filter. But my car usually takes 7 quarts to be on the full mark of the dipstick when changing (plus 1/2 in the filter) but then once I run the car and the filter fills completely it usually needs another 1/2 quart. So it takes a total of 8 quarts.
I also marked with a screwdriver on the opposite side of the dipstick a "full" mark and a "add" mark so I could tell where level is at from either side.
Has your vehicle been scanned for any codes and if so what codes show up. If it has not been scanned you should have it done. I hope by turning any screws you have not further complicated the problem. The idle setting is NON ADJUSTABLE and only controlled by what the PCM tells it.
Other physical checks to perform
Restricted air intake system. Make sure everything is clear with a new filter and that the air intake duct is not collapsed.
Check for vacuum leaks ,crankcase ventilation or brake booster hose disconnected.
All other vacuum lines.
Check the "IAC" fuse located on the drivers side dash
Did the tech use a scan tool and monitor the IAC position and make sure it was on spec?
As a final recommendation you should possibly take your Aurora to a Caddy dealer and before they look at it explain what has been done while at the same time contact the local GM customer service office and plead for assistance. Unfortunately this seems to have run the course on being " a fix myself problem".
Somebody else (maybe RJS) suggested cleaning the port and seats and all where the IAC valve operates. Taking the throttle body off might not be necessary, but it would allow easy access to clean everything. It's not too bad of a job either.
I'm sure a lot of us are watching this in case it ever happens to them. I have a 98 as well.
Taylor (800wattaurora)coached me through and also sent me instructions for the manual on how to do this. However, it's really easy - just slow going. I'd be happy to share the manual with you or talk you through it. Just leave an e-mail.
If the IAC valve is not a lot of money, you could order one and replace it yourself and eliminate another possibility. Admittedly, this is the trial and error method, but the dealer hasn't done any better.
I know a couple of people on here earlier who had drivability problems resolved them by replacing the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculator) valve; not sure if this is something you've tried or not.
Not that this will help, just an amusing anecdote: back in my college days, for a year I lived with my parents and commuted into Milwaukee. I drove a Dodge Omni (gag) about 35-40 minutes each way to class, and back home. In winter, invariably I would get 25-30 minutes into the trip, and the car would be stalling, would not restart easily, etc. I'd get nearly to class, or nearly home, and the car would die and was not able to be restarted. By the time I got to a pay phone and called my Dad, and he came down to pick me up, the car would restart right away.
Turned out to be a problem with the fuel line (it was kinked and exposed under the car) - with temps under 32 degrees, it would freeze after 25-30 minutes of freeway driving. Just sitting for 15-30 minutes, it would thaw enough for the car to start and operate normally. Weird. I got rid of that car in spring, after it stranded me no fewer than a dozen times (went through 3-4 carburators in 9 months, too).
--Robert
Interesting idea. My '97 gets about 1100 miles per quart. I bought the car in 1999 with 37k miles. Oil consumption has been fairly consistent since then -- sometimes higher between oil changes, sometimes lower -- but no discernible trend. 87k miles on the odometer now. I have been using Mobil 1 exclusively. Mostly I have used 10W-30, but this summer I mixed 15W-50 and 10W-30 half-half thinking the heavier oil might have an effect, but I saw no change in consumption.
I read the caddy-info article about sticking piston rings. That may be the source of the oil consumption problem, but the fix sounds pretty complex and expensive. I can live with the expense of frequent oil replenishment (even M1) as long as my Aurora doesn't look like a mosquito fogger.
Measurement -- my Aurora has the most difficult-to-read dipstick I have ever seen. I think the cylinder on the end of the cable meets the oil at a 30 to 45 degree angle. I have taken to rotating the dipstick before removing it; this seems to help a little. Shortly after I bought my Aurora, I read that there was a replacement for the stock dipstick, but I was never able to find any specifics, like a TSB or part number.
Capacity -- my Aurora takes 8 quarts to fill to the top of dipstick after oil and filter change. One factor that may affect the oil capacity needed is whether or not your Aurora has an oil cooler or not. Information I have seen is that early Auroras had an engine oil cooler; it was deleted mid-1997 model year.
Keep up the discussion! Hopefully we will jointly find the facts. "The true is out there."
Thanks
Henri
ckirkpatrick-since your in tiral and error right now. It has to be fuel/air, spark, or electrical. That sums it up. You've replaced alot there. Can't be much futher. First start with the electrical, and unplug the battery for a while. Let the pcm and everything reset. Wait say an hour. It will clear any codes you had and defalut to factory settings. BEFORE you start your car after this, re-boot, turn your key to the ON postion and Don't start, wait 30 seconds, turn car OFF, wait 30 seconds. This resets the throttle position sensor. The IAT works in conjunction with the TPS. IT notes in the service manual that this MUST be done every time the throttle body is messed with, probably includes messing w/ IAT. Hopefully this will help and it's a place to start and it's FREE. At least any codes you get will be current and you'll know that the TPS sensor is set correclty.
Caddy info. There's a oil conversation going on in the caddy board at gmforums that pretty good dedicated toward northstar use and consumption. Theres 2 mechanics on there that say the 4.6 should get 7.5 qts with a new oil filter. Use 7 if filter not replaced. For those that add 8 or more, it gets purged out, forgot how. He agrees that the dipstick is hard to read. He asked everyone that next time they check and it's low. don't add (unless excisivly low) check again say 500-1000 miles later and see if it got any lower than before. Some guys cut a notch in there stick to figure it out. He also only recomends using 10w30.
STS problem, I think it was the fuel sending unit in the gas tank. Somewhat common problem. Can't remeber wait the symptons where. I bet the same unit is used in our Aurora's.
I've recenly been taking my car to a Caddy/Olds dealer and am very happy with the service there. Been through 3 Olds dealers in the last 3 years, now final the 4th dealer is Great. The techs work on mostly northstars all day long. I would recomend any Aurora owner having trouble with an Olds service dept, try a caddy dealer.
I have a 98. With filter change it always takes 8 quarts to get to the "full" mark of the dipstick. From there, I don't notice and "purge" or quick loss of a 1/4 or 1/2 quart. My car uses almost no oil for city driving, and will use a little on the highway. It averages to 1 quart in 3000 miles and is usually a little less.
My experience does not parallel what some others here have posted at all regarding how much oil is needed at the change.
It the dipstick wrong???
The link that RJS posted from GM does show the 4.6 needing 7.5 quarts and it did not include an * like most of the other numbers. The * indicated more oil needed when changing filter. Maybe the * was mistakenly left out. Either that, or my dip stick is wrong and my car mysteriously fails to "purge" the additional oil. I am assuming that the 4.6 and 4.0 have the same oil capacity.
An oil cooler shouldn't matter. The oil won't drain out of it in all likelyhood, so you won't require any more oil for a change. My Corvette had an oil cooler, while non-Z51 Corvettes didn't. There was no separate capacity for the Z51, and the 5 quarts recommended was always right on. I think it's because oil stays in the cooler and hoses to the cooler.
I have a 95 and I have a hell of a time getting the windows not to fog up when it is very cold outside. My heat gets very warm , but it seems like every combination I have tried to blow the air does not work. It is usually ok with just me in the car, but as soon as there is at least 2 people in it I get fog city. Does anyone have this problem , if not could the cold weather guys let me know how you set your climate control so that I can find out if I have a problem or if Im just an idiot and dont know how to work the heat in my car.
Jay Bognar OCA
Problem: Hard starting during recent January (below freezing) weather here in Washington DC. The car runs fine and starts fine when the engine is warm. Jump in the car to go to work, go to lunch or come home (after the car has been sitting) and it takes between 5 and 10 seconds of cranking to get her going. I installed a new battery in December. This does not happen every time. In fact, the day I dropped the car off at my mechanic, he couldn't replicate the problem - to be fair, I couldn't either when I picked the car up. The next morning - wham - crank, crank crank.
Last major service was at 45,000 miles - plugs, wires, throttle body cleaning, etc. No problems since then - just regular oil changes.
To add fuel to that discussion, I run Mobil dyno 10-30,usually get about 1200-1500 miles before I have to add a quart. This has been true since I purchased the car with 15,000 miles on it. I understand that the Northstar engine was designed to be an oil burner.
Any help on my cold weather stating problem would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I could be wrong, but it sure seems like most of the Aurora owners need 8 quarts to get to the full mark on the stick. That makes for a lot of faulty dip sticks. My olds dealer even said 8 quarts. So what gives? That would be a big deal worthy of some TSB or something.
Also, If I've been over filling by 1/2 quart, it sure doesn't "purge" out. I'm still doubtful I've been doing something wrong, but even if I was, perhaps 1/2 quart is not that much, but I would really not want to go much over an extra 1/4 if there was a goof. Just a guess.
Question - Where are you guys getting your oil changes? Is it at a dealership, quick lube, or are you doing it yourself?
Pizza442, I would appreciate it if you could send me the document.
Henri
I do my own oil changes, as I have done for 36 years.
After one or two changes, I settled on rjs's suggestion of filling with 7 or 7.5 quarts, then measuring next day. Always needed the difference to go to 8 quarts total. Maybe the dipstick is not right. How can we find out?
I called two Olds dealers. Both said 8 quarts with filter for the Aurora. I called Oldsmobile and they said 7.5, but when I asked if that was with a filter change they just said "duh I don't know". Great. I called a Caddy dealer and the guy in the service department seemed pretty knowledgeable and said the northstars take 7.5 which should put it on the middle of the stick and read a half quart low. He said they have got many notification from GM on this. This is exactly what has also been related here as well.
For some reason, the Olds dealers don't seem to be notified. Maybe the 4.0 is different. When I go 8, there doesn't seem to be any quick loss of oil though. No purge. Maybe go 7.5 to 7.75 and split the difference.
Perhaps 1/2 quart over is not a big deal and this is not worth worrying about, but I really don't know. I'd guess an extra 1/4 isn't going to matter much. 1/2 - ????
I just want to be caring for the car 100% correctly. I have a habit of driving cars for a long time and I really love this thing so I want to take care of it right. I've been using 8 and both oil analysis reports showed my car to experiencing virtually no wear and all was well. So that is some consolation.
Henry - I do my own oil changes too. Ramps, a 15 qt tub and the filter wrench and a basic wrench for the plug and you are set. Oh yeah get a grease gun too. You can do an M1 change and save a lot of money, not wait forever in line at a change place, and nobody but you touches your car. No oily boots and hands. No "service champ" filters either. Dealers use better stuff though.
If anybody else can call around and find out what the dealers know and share that it would be great. I really appreciate what others have shared so far.
One last note: when you guys report the different oil levels that you are observing, are you checking it HOT? (after 10 miles, maybe more in the cold) and after a few minutes to settle. I used to fill it 7-7.5 and then check it the next morning (cold) after it had completely drained down and would find it needed that extra .5 quart. But now I am doing what this guy says and checking it hot as he says it is calibrated this way. Heck, if it settles to half-stick after one day, leave it there and just watch it; forget bringing it to the top of the stick. Oh, and the PF 58 filter holds closer to 1/4 of a quart, I think. So when I change the oil in a few days, I'll put 7 in, and open the 8th to fill the filter before installing.
Oh, if I didn't already mention it. If anyone has a moist/leaky oil level sensor, you can buy just the round gasket at the dealer for about $5. I heard you need to buy the sensor just to get the gasket on some GM engines! So I guess we are lucky. I can dig up the part # for anyone who wants it.
Jay
Thanks for the info. One thing that is a little troubling is that often a Caddy person is quoted for northstar information. Granted the 4.6 and 4.0 are virtually the same and may be identical in this respect, but you never know.
I'd like to know if 8 is 1/2 too much and it is supposed to purge. Why doesn't mine?
Having a dip stick that reads 1/2 low when really full is absolutely insane, if not the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Crap, why not apply that to the gas gauge and temperature gauge too????? "Well, when it says 260, it's really 195, when it says half tank, it's really full - it's supposed to work that way." I would not mind the odometer working like that though - 50k is really 100k.
But really, this the dumbest design feature I've ever heard of.
mike98c: You're right, the 95's don't have a re-circulation switch. Our switch is activates the passenger side temp control on the door.
My Ranger specifically calls for synthetic blend 5W-20. That's what I use in it. Nothing else! I won't use full synthetic or regular motor oil in it.
I'm sorry if I offended anyone, but this is just how I see it. Nothing more, nothing less.
David.
It calls for 7.5 w/filter. Of course this puts it right at the add mark. Not real comfortable with that reading. I also fill my filter with oil before installing.
I would be afraid to use more than 8 qts.
I've mentioned this before, but the steering wheel is loose also. Is this something that could be fixed fairly easy?
Would appreciate any help.
Thanks, David