Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

hammen2

Welcome e_net_rider. Your story of the "butchered" Aurora rivals only Zinc's stories of having his car worked on :-(

Regarding oil pressure, I'll duplicate blk97aurora's contention that it's as high as 80 psi at startup, but only 30-35 when driving (I don't recall what it was at idle after the engine warms up).

Regarding oil consumption, and the "Northstar repuation" of being an oil burner, I wonder how much of this is really consumption versus leakage (crankshaft seal)? I must have the only Classic Aurora (98) which doesn't burn oil. Last year about this time it _appeared_ to be using oil, but, as I found out in March, I was bitten by the crankshaft seal bug which afflicts many (if not all) Auroras. There was never a puddle under the car, but it apparently pooled in and/or ran off the engine cover. This was an $1800 job that thankfully my warranty company covered.

Regarding your initial post of a vibration between 65 and 75 mph, this is a characteristic of nearly all late-model GM G-bodies (Aurora/Riviera/STS/et. al. - due to their stiff body structure), when the tires aren't perfectly balanced. Bottom line is, you need to find a shop that has a Hunter GSP9700 Road-Force balance machine (see http://www.gsp9700.com to find the closest one to you). This machine applies a counter-force to the tire as it spins, detecting wobble that wouldn't otherwise be noticeable on a regular balance setup. My local Tire Centers place only charges me $12.50 a tire to do this - my Olds dealer wanted $34.95 for the same procedure (ouch!)...

Hope this helps,

--Robert

e_net_rider

Thanks for the heads up on this one. I still suspect it to be CV joints because it changes from cold start. As the joint would warm enough to make the grease thinner, yet not fully warmed through, it will allow for slight changes in tolerances, being the worst condition. When fully warmed parts match better and it is not as bad. Also whether or not the joints are under extra torque from acceleration or hill it will go away. My Khumo dealer does the RFB for 12.50 I think. I have to get them to align the dots with the stems. Amazingly they got 1 tire correct. It is surprising how many shops ignore this even though it has been around since perhaps 81. Remember the peice of junk Chevy Citation. Well Cadillac wanting to boost sales adopted the peice of junk and called it a Cimarron. One of the improvments was the first use of aligning the tire to the wheel. The stem hole was drilled at the heavy spot and then the light spot of the tire was place at the valve stem, or some derivation of that. Anyway, if your new tire has a mark, it is to be aligned with the stem. Most tires, the mark will wear off and if you need a patch, make sure they or you mark the location of the stem on the tire before disassembly.

e_net_rider

Saw your post and it reminded me of something I saw. Extra hoses attached to the block near the oil filter. Does this engine have an oil cooler?
Is it part of the radiator? Where is yours leaking? If it is in one of the end tanks, I would check the local radiator shops and see how much it would cost to replace the end tank. If you are otherwise certain it is in good shape, i.e. no corrosion eating it up, this should save you a bundle particularly if you pull it. Cap lines so dirt doesn't get in. That being said, I've used aftermarket radiators and usually for just a few extra dollars you get an extra core for larger capacity. You will want to pay close attention to where all the foam dams are that force the air through rather than around. you might even have some missing and look for some high quality weather stripping to replace it. While you have it apart you might even check the fan motors for the possibility of lubricating the bearings. As a guess, something like 20W "non-detergent" , maybe synthetic if available or if you find a better spec. This could save you a couple of hundred dollars in motors if you get it before the bearing run dry. Don't over do it and get oil on the brushes as that will shorten the life of them. But experience is that the bearings usually go long before the brushes so you may double their life at a cost of a little time to saturate the bearings. If they are roller or ball bearings they may use a grease. Again, check carefully the sealing around the radiator and condenser so that you are sure it will pull air through both without a lot of leaking. When not moving and the fans must pull air through both it reaches one of the hardest times on your AC. With less air moving through the condenser, head pressures start to increase with the decreased cooling at idle. As you pull away the engine revs and increases these pressures further before you are able to regain enough air movement to cool the freon in the condenser. Although most systems have a blow-off if the pressure gets to high (loss of some freon)and some have a high pressure cutout which means it is overloaded and isn't cooling at all until it resets, I think you'll agree it would be better to have it cooling all of the time and never reach that condition. "Very high head pressures are rough on the compressor"

uwmom

You know I bought this car on 10/3/03 and it only took 11 days for something to go wrong with it! So the hard shifts were fixed by the replacement of the pressure solenoid. I know that my descriptions aren't up to your standards as "gearheads" but please bear with me... I got new coils and plugs today, no new wires though ...Did not fix the problem. The service manager and I took the test drive. Does the "missing" thing when I go up & down hills and when I let off the accelerator when going between 60 - 65. It will stop when the speedometer reaches 55. Weirdest thing. So back to the 5 star dealer I go... - any more ideas?

hammen2

UWMom, you've got a used 2001 V8, right? Is it still under warranty (would either be 3/36 or 5/60, depending when the car was sold)? What dealer are you having work on the car? I presume you're in Madison...

e_net_rider

I had felt that your complaint was vague to the point of being a crap shoot if you take it in. Only one thing worse than a shop that uses the shotgun approach and that is one that butchers everything they touch.
I bought a life time water pump and upon returning the core I learned that they gave me the wrong one for the lifetime. I grumbled because this was most of a day removing other components because of the brackets that bolted up to the water pump. They gave me a lifetime warranty on it, little concession if it fails early, but a mechanic getting parts overheard and bragged he could change that in thirty minutes. How with all the brackets? He just bent them out of the way. It is almost impossible to bend metal back exactly the way it was and I'll bet every vehicle he did this to would not keep a belt for long. I had to struggle hard with the slack in the bolt holes just to get the new belts running straight without having bent them.
Back to your problem. If I understand this OBD II, it is supposed to take a snapshot of all perameters at the time things mess up and it is supposed to keep up to three if I remember. The problem will be finding someone with the equipment and knowledge to read and interpret that data correctly. Maybe you'll be lucky and they will find a hard code set in memory which should put them on the correct track immediately. Are you having to pay for this? Why did they jump onto all coils and plugs? Did they replace with the double platinums, which are supposed to be good for 100K. Definitely recommend asking for all old parts and if there is a core, ask to see the parts at least. Did they use the silicone dielectric grease on the plugs wires and coils. This stuff will keep any minor arcing from eating up terminals.

e_net_rider

Reread post. A thought occurred from your original post. Could it be that the transmission is acting up more. Maybe trying to do a forced downshift or TCC trying to lock. Was the work done at a GM dealer. Maybe they put the wrong fluid in. How much did you pay for your low milage 01???

e_net_rider

Message was about a better thermostat. I definitely question that. This junk yard refuge was missing it's tstat. I bought GM and was amazed at the design of this thing. Maybe GM updated them and I've had no trouble so far. I tried that after market on another vehicle one time that had a similarly complicated looking stat. Even looking for the best which had a similarly complicated looking structure it just didn't measure up. The OE actually had a slightly larger opening which should have allowed maximum flow. From memory, I suspect that this system uses a method where the full flow from the pump is actually taking place through the engine, but as needed it will draw cooler water from the radiator, depending upon tstat opening, and blend it at the pump.

e_net_rider

I located this vehicle yesterday. It is pretty damn clean and I test drove. It is pearl white and has two small paint chips, one touched up poorly and chips on the driver door edge. The interior is very good and clean. The test drive did not show me the power I am getting from my 96. Looked like someone had changed plugs and wires and added antichafe to them where they come out of the cover. Noted that the ABS light flashed three times I think when started. And hard braking started to lock the wheels without ABS activation. (The dummy salesman wasn't wearing seat belt which I hadn't noticed) He said new pads were put on rear (maybe) but front looked pretty well worn. Picked up vibration around 70 which may be tires. Had a new pair on the front which I never heard of. Undoubtably some cheap [non-permissible content removed] brand that belong on a wheel barrow. The Eagles on the rear were well worn. Noticed some fine peices of chaff in the rear window and he said the windows had been tinted, so That involves checking a bunch of stuff to make sure they didn't damage defogger and anything else involved with removing. Forgot to pop the rear seat up and make sure it had a vented battery, which is certainly suspect with the age and the number of stories where people have blown their's up because they elected a cheaper battery. It did appear that maybe the walnut crap was in the cooling system. And the water pump belt seemed to be riding very high on the pulleys so it has been replaced with aftermarket. Also that short bypass hose by the thermostat had been replaced, evidenced by Gates clamps. Question of Why? comes to mind. Any opinions of what this car might be worth? This is not a new car dealer and he offers only a 50/50 30 day worthless warranty. I know he'd sell his mother if possible. I used him for estimates involving a vehicle years ago. Insurance total and they only wanted to give me 2600. Fortunately he and another lot had very similar vehicles for over 5K. Both were bad with coolant problems, blown gasket or crack and his had a burned up tranny as well. I got the figures from him and then told him of the problems with the vehicle. Thought a little freindly advice would be welcome. Selling a peice of junk should backfire and ruin rep. I can tell you he didn't wholesale it. It remained on that lot for at least three months and I know he tried to sell it to someone I know. I had looked at another vehicle yesterday on his lot with the 3800 generation II and the oil was all clabbered and dirty. Obviously had been run with a lot of water/coolant in it. I pointed this out and he said,"that's just a little condensation". I am sure that lawyers, politicians, and used car salemen have a seat reserved in hell.

ottoracefan

A few times over the past year I've turned the key to start my '95, and there was a second or so delay before the starter turned the engine over. It happened infrequently and the pause was so short that I wondered if I was imagining it.

Last weekend my wife drove to a local mall and when she tried to start the car to come home, all she got when she turned the key were some faint clicks. She tried a number of times with the same result. By the time I got there (10 minutes), she had tried again and it started right up. It continues to work normally (in my driveway...).

Anyone had similar problems? Solution?

Thanks,
ottoracefan

blk97aurora

ottoracefan,

My '97 has exhibited the same intermittent symptom for about two years. Only once in that time did it not start with the first turn of the key; that time it started right up on the second try. The delay is less than a second. I, too, thought maybe I was imagining it, but it has happened enough times that I know it is real.

I suspect a balky starter solenoid or corrosion on a connector in the starter circuit. Battery is 2-year-old ACDelco of the correct type. I keep my AAA membership up-to-date and don't let my wife drive my Classic.

uwmom

To answer the prior ?s from hammen2 & e net rider - this is a V6 with 3/36 and 3 runs out 12/23/03. I am having my service completed in Lancaster WI, where I work. It is a GM certified dealership that is also 5 star who sell chevy,buick,chrysler,dodge and jeep. I purchased this car for $17740 with 17,777 miles. It has all the goodies I wanted. Heated leather, sunroof, memory seats... maybe I should have waited for the silver Bonney that I really wanted but didn't want to pay 23 thou for... thanks for the help

blk97aurora

Henry,

I hope I'll never be able to best your middle-of-the-Lincoln-Tunnel fuel-pump failure.

ottoracefan

blk97 and Henry,

  If I had something else my wife would drive I would trade with her, but she doesn't like my minivan. We, too have started wondering where/when the worst non-start could be but don't want it to actually happen.

  You guys have mentioned exactly what I was thinking - - either starter solenoid or connections, or the column ignition switch (not the lock assembly). Maybe I'll get a used starter and tackle that job. It's cheaper than the switch and probably easier for a DIY guy. Will kill the solenoid and connection possiblities all in one job.

Thanks...........

mkeolds

I tried to get at the wire for my power switch. I saw in previous posts that it is usually broken. I removed the screws as described, in the console area. How do I get it off to get to the connection. Nothing seems very loose after removing all the screws?

Thanks

garnes

I think there are some screws in the ash tray area too that need to come out.

blk97aurora

e_net_rider,

The early Classics had an engine oil cooler in the radiator. It was dropped from production part way through the 1997 model run.

blk97aurora

mkeolds,

Just to be sure -- six screws retain the storage compartment and there are two more at the ashtray. There are four bayonet-type clips, two on each side of the console top. I insert a hand under the console top (in the shifter area) and gently press upward along the sides to dislodge the clips. Careful, that's a $600 piece of wood.

I haven't heard of the power switch wires breaking, although that wouldn't surprise me. Almost universally the shift indicator illumination wires break because of inflexible wire and poor wire dress. Good luck.

dregan1000

that ottoracefan, blk97 and Henry are talking about...

Had a similar problem on my 95. Ended up being the security module, which wasn't recognizing the PassKey thing. It eventually got so bad that it would only start about 1 in 10 times. When I replaced it, I couldn't reprogram it, so the security light is constantly blinking, but everything else still works. Part cost like $240 and took me an hour and a half to put in. Since this is my (and I know I'm gonna catch flak for saying this) beater Aurora, I'm not too concerned. I just took out the bulb behind that light... ;-)

  If the same problem were to happen to either of my 97's, I'd take it to the dealer to have it reprogrammed.

ericmf

I got this low coolant message tonight. I know its a common issue for failing waterpumps but mine was just replaced in July. What are the chances that I got a dud(sp?). Anyone think it could be my failing radiator? Maybe a lack of pressure... Anyways does anyone know where I can come across a reasonably priced pressure tester?

Thanks guys.

ericmf

if it makes you feel better I had a problem with mine the same day I bought it. The water pump belt broke and wrapped around the pump while simontaneously shredding the cam shaft drive pulley and tensioner. I discovred this at midnight the night I got the car on the side of the highway.

paja

Transmition will not shift to third. It stays in second. Someone sugested that problem might be caused by faulty solenoids. Replaced them, but no fix. Any sugestion?

Henry

You replaced the solenoids inside the tranny and it did not work? That fixed my problem when mine did not shift. Did you put in the bracket screen??

Dont know what to say.

Henri

95mushroom

I need 2 woofers for the bose radio. The left front and rear trunk one. They didnt come on my car when I bought it so I need parts numbers if anyone has them, and a place to buy them??? I've been searching online for so long and turned up nothing.

I have the right front and it fit into the rear slot. Though it has "94G front, woofer" on it, I'm guessing thats just for assembly. Also, I think bose used them on different cars too. I was looking at a 93-96 camaro rear woofer assembly and the woofer itself looked a lot like mine.

mkeolds

I got the console loose. How do I get it past the shifter, or how do I remove the shifter. I am trying to repair a broken wire to the light bulb for the shift indicator, and I want to see if the wires for the power switch are broken as it does not seem to work.

Thanks.

blk97aurora

Robert,

Once the console is loose, apply the parking brake so you can move the shift lever around without your Aurora moving around. There is a u-shaped clip inserted near the top of the shifter handle from the front of the car. I cannot remember if I used a small screwdriver to pry it out or maybe small needle-nose pliers. After you remove the retaining clip, you will be able to remove the shifter handle by pulling straight up. As I recall, there is some kind if a detent to overcome because mine requires a fair amount of force, then breaks free and moves easily. Be careful as it is easy to jerk the handle too far when it comes free -- damaging the power switch wires. Pull the two wires gently from the innards of the shifter to give you enough slack to raise the handle high enough to clear the metal shaft.

With the shaft located about half-way in the shift pattern, you should be able to lift the console top up and off the shaft, giving you access to the wiring. I used flexible test lead wire (Radio Shack) to replace the not-so-flexible-and-easily-broken original wiring for the shift indicator wiring. Be sure to use wire ties or similar to anchor both ends of the flexible wire. Just in case it needs to be replaced, the bulb is a #73. Good luck!

bryanttarvin

Hi Everyone,

I come out of lurking mode and actually participate in the Aurora boards every now and then when I have something to contribute or share. I have something today that may be useful to Aurora owners with the factory BOSE sound system.

I own a 1990 Oldsmobile Touring Sedan and a new 2003 Collector's Edition Aurora and have the factory BOSE sound system on both of them. I found out over 1-1/2 years ago on the BOSE website that they have an automotive section on it that explains all the technology and features they use in factory automotive applications. They also have a FAQ that explains that they can help with getting information, service, and replacement parts for your car. You just call the number on the site. This is extremely helpful when you can no longer get factory parts from the dealer because they have been discontinued. That happened in my case.

One of my speakers in my Touring Sedan(daily driver) stopped working altogether and the others were cutting in and out at will and making whining noises. Took the car to the OLDS dealer and the parts are no longer available and they cannot service them. Found the automotive section of the BOSE website and called the number. They told me how to ship the speakers back to them for repair. I took them out of the car, packed them really well, and shipped them to BOSE. Had them back in one week and put them back in the car. They refurbished all 4 speakers in my car and charged only $300. They all work now and sound very good. Although, I still have one front door speaker that still whines every once in a while. Not sure what's wrong with it. Might need to call BOSE again.

All and all, they did a very good job for me and saved me from having to either live with the problems or replace the entire sound system and lose the factory look and the steering wheel radio controls. Please use them if you want to keep the factory sound system and look, like me.
I'm impressed with BOSE this way. I'm not sure how many other name brand automotive sound companies do this for their customers. I'm totally sold on BOSE now!

95mushroom:

Try the dealer to get the part numbers. Any GM dealer should be able to look them up for you. They have access to all GM divisional parts information whether they sell the cars or not. If the parts have been discontinued, go to the BOSE website to get the number and call them. I'm sure they will be glad to help you.

Bryant

stickking1

Some audiophiles would paste me for saying it...but whether in my car or my home, BOSE is #1

Henry

MUST BE BOSE.

stickking1

There they go

nne3jxc

Bose is like what they used to say about Izod shirts: "A $5 shirt with a $20 alligator."
I think for any given amount of money, you can do a lot better than Bose if you shop around.

(Bose does sound decent in my Aurora, but I've heard better.)

Now back to your regularly scheduled program...

mrdubya

no highs no lows must be bose!

Henry

Bose is the Cadillac of Sound systems. Unfortunately its the Cadillac Cimeron.

Henry

I am seriously considering getting rid of my stock exhaust system. However, I plan on leaving it attached to the car. Now that the warrnaty coverage is not there (thank you warranty gold) the cost of maintaining this thing is not looking good. Two mechahics have said that the steering column/rack need to be examined for problems. In addition, the air conditioner will not engage. Yes I know we just had a blizzard, but it is used for the front window defogger also.

I do want to keep a Classic so I will not get rid of this one until I can find a replacement. I have switched from wanting black to sticking with beige. I have already purchased stuff based on a beige car (i.e. the wheels, the floor mats) so I might as well keep it that way.

cwiley1

Henry--

Your A/C compressor will not engage in cold weather(below about 45 deg.). I know it says on the control it is on, but only above 45 deg. So your A/C may be okay. I had a small light that came on when the compressor engaged. It come on only above 45 deg. It also disengages between 45 and 50 mph unless the coolant temperature is to hot. It was a very useful light and told me a lot about the cooling system.

hammen2

OK, my Aurora is starting to have starting issues. I'm not smelling gas, but, when I turn the car on, the idiot lights come on, it turns over, almost seems to stall for a second or two, then she starts (rpm needle jumps up to 1500-1800 rpm before dropping back down to 900 or so at idle). I'm not touching the gas pedal, of course - not starting any differently than I have for the past 2 1/2 years.

A couple of times when it's done this, it's actually conked out and I had to turn it over again (usually when the engine was warm, i.e. I just ran in the store for 5 minutes or something). It's not really hard starting, it's just not starting right away like it always has. It doesn't do this every time, either - I think it happens more when the engine temp is warm.

I've got to take her in to get the CD changer replaced under warranty. The dealership also told me my steering rack is leaking (Hi Henri), and it's probably time for the front wheel speed sensor (going to give my warranty company a coronary - yes, they are still in business, but I don't know for how long at this rate :-)

--Robert

ericmf

Has anyone had any success in code scanning 95 GM cars? At first I thought it was an Aurora thing but I have a 95 Aurora and a 95 Lumina. I was thinking of getting a code reader to have around because the Lumina is giving me a service light. It would come in handy for the aurora too but when I went to autozone for their "free" testing I was told that 95 GM cars cannot be read because they have OBD I connnectors with OBD II computers. Is this correct? Any work around or scanners that will work??

mrdubya

95's are a pain, i tried going to 2 autozones were they give you a free scan. first one didn't work, then i found out about the obdI with OBDII connectors (yes we have obdI, its why only 95's have "chips" available) i called the second one, they said it would work. i got there didn't work and they swore to me that there's no such thing as obdI w/ obdII connectors. i told them thats what a cadillac/olds dealer mechanic told me, they told me they where wrong!! so im like, ok, oldsmobile themselves says it is, but you guys (the part stor clerks getting $5.50/hr) say its not, but can't get it to work, but there mistaken? they took it kinda personal when i got sarcastic.

mrdubya

oh btw, i have seen scanners on ebay saying there for obdI but have the obdII connector adapter w/ them, so the tool is out there!

blk97aurora

Look into AutoXray. I bought their EZ-Link scanner about nine months ago with PC-Link software that enables file transfer to a PC and printing reports as well as updating the software from the internet. I have used it successfully with my '97. Don't know if it can solve the '95 obd1 computer/obd2 connector problem.

For the money ($230 for scanner, obd2 cable and case plus $65 for PC-Link software and cable), I am pleased with the functionality. It shows whether or not the MIL (malfunction indicator light) is lit (duh! except if the bulb has burned out), status of readiness tests, pending codes, set codes, and their descriptions. It can erase codes, but cannot do things like changing settings of magnasteer.

I have no association with AutoXray except as a satisfied customer.

BTW, scanners have more capabilities than readers. I found this whole topic area very confusing when I started researching it.

Good luck!

rjs200240

There is also a product that will allow you to extract a lot more data, but requires you to already have your own laptop or palm pilot. But for the same price as blk97's Auto-Xray and PC cable, you could get this:
http://www.autotap.com/products.html and get the GM-specific software. I'm not sure if you can use the generic part on any car, though? But it does a lot more than just scan codes.

The one they have for the LS-1 is pretty dang cool. Looks like you can change fuel maps, timing, all sorts of stuff.

blk97aurora

Robert,

I looked at AutoTap early in the year (probably based on your recommendation). It does provide more functionality at about the same price; I decided to go with AutoXray because I didn't want to be tied to my laptop in the car, and I do not own a palm. It's good to have choices.

rbreen

The service engine soon light has come on, in my '99 Aurora. I'm pretty confident that I know what caused it. I disconnected the wire to the air temperature sensor, to take off the air cleaner cover. I forgot to plug it back in. When I drove the car the service light came on. I re attached the wire, but the light is still on. I assume that it needs to be reset. Does anybody know a simple way to do this, hopefully with a scanner? I would be greatful for any advise. I'd hate to take it somewhere for this.

blk97aurora

Russ,

The code can be erased with a scanner, and that will turn off the SES light. If you're within driving distance of Freehold, NJ, come on over and we can hook up my scanner to your '99. Same goes for any other list members.

With your problem corrected, the SES light will go off by itself after several engine on/off cycles. I never found any documentation that gave an exact number of cycles. I had a similar situation as yours and it took 2 to 3 weeks of 2 to 4 starts per day for the SES to finally go off -- that was frustrating (and before I got the scanner).

rbreen

Thanks for you quick reply. Thanks also for your offer. As a matter of fact I am only about a 45 min. ride from Freehold [Morrisville, PA]. In fact I have been working a construction job recently in Howell. I can smell the coffee roasting at Nestle's there.
  It is nice to know that it will reset itself at some point. I'll probably wait it out. If it does not reset, I might just take you up on your kind offer.

mrdubya

it took my code about 2 weeks, but i start it about 3 times a day somtimes (i was doing some xmas shopping that week so even more) for it to reset itself if the problem went away.

you could also disconnect the negative battery terminal overnight, that should do it too. i thought i read somewere it takes 8 hours to completely reset

rbreen

I thought about trying disconnecting the battery, but was afraid it might screw up other things. I think I'll wait it out. It is nice to know that it will probably go away on it's own.

rbreen

It already reset. After re attaching the wire to the sensor, I only had to start it a couple of times.

mrdubya

So im driving about 65 on the highway when it seems like all of the sudden the car goes into nuetral, SES light comes on and its starts jolting all over. i pull over, restart. no SES light, car goes from 1-2-3 fine, seemed kinda different but fine. then at about 55 or so when its supposed to go into OD it does the nuetral thing with the SES light back on. Now i get off the highway and drive the streets. now that the SES light is on. the car is locked into 2nd NO first gear, even if i put it in 1st. rev's keep rising, no 3rd, eventually gets to fast and goes back into nuetral till i slow down. but if i restart it it will start in 1st - 2-3 then when its supposed to go into 4th it goes into nutral, goes crazy all over again. reverse/park still work.

anyone have any ideas? like established before, its not easy to have it scanned. i will call oldsmobile tomorrow, but maybe this has happened before?

thanks

ottoracefan

I changed my starter today and am hoping that I might have fixed my "pause after turning the key" problem. I cleaned up all the electrical connections and of course have a newer solenoid, so a few possible failure points have been changed/corrected.

  I paid $43 for a starter with 3k miles on eBay. Took me 3.5 hours to change it out, without rushing. Not a hard job at all if anyone is thinking about doing it. This is on my '95 classic.......

  I'll keep the group posted on whether I have anymore delayed starts.

  Dale