Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

blk97aurora

My service manual does not show much on the brakes and no troubleshooting guide except for ABS. I don't know completely how to check the piston; there is one inside each caliper. The manual shows a picture of using a small wood or plastic tool to lift the boot to remove trapped air. Also text:

Important
 * boot must lay flat
 * make sure convolutions are tucked back into place

I wish I had more info for you. Good luck.

rjs200240

The piston is what moves in and out to push on the pad. It looks like a round bowl or something with a rubber boot around it. It should move freely. You can press the brake lightly to move it out (or have someone so you don't overextend it or launch it out of the bore) and then press it back in. You should be able to press it in with a clamp without much effort. You can probably push it a bit with your hands if you are strong. Make sure to use an old brake pad or block of wood. Don't put the clamp right on it or you can warp it.

If it won't move, try loosening the bleeder screw. Then try pushing it. If it still won't move, it's probably a screwed up caliper (though I'd bet it is screwed anyway from the heat). If it does move, I'd suspect the brake line of being pinched, or the master cylinder of not working right. Really, given how much heat you've put into that thing, you might want to replace the caliper anyway...

You can also check when the caliper is pulled up that it slides back and forth on the pins/rails. Or you can remove the rotor and mount the caliper up again. The whole mechanism should move back and forth really easily.

If none of this makes much sense, take it to another mechanic. You don't want to mess around with the brakes if you dont' really know what you are doing. It isn't hard stuff, but use common sense and know your limitations. It's hard to write up how to troubleshoot something (and I'm no master mechanic), so you should have some idea of how it works already.

alcan

P0153: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

P0717: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal

blk97aurora

Don,

On my '97 I had to remove the tensioner to get clearance to remove and replace the belt. It was easy to do as the tensioner is held in place by the two threaded studs to which the cover is attached. BTW, my cover is steel; interesting that yours is plastic. There is no tension adjustment to make as the tensioner takes care of that.

blk97aurora

N T,

What I believe you refer to is shown in my parts microfiche as "deflector, radiator air lower"; part number is 25614711. Same part is used for '95 through '99. An online parts supplier shows list as $14.80 with price at $11.10.

The deflector is held in place by 11 push-in plastic gizmos; GM part number is 14093088, list price $0.68. NAPA sells identical part for a bit less; sorry I don't have the part number at hand.

I would recommend replacing the deflector. My measurements of intake air temperature show a 10 to 12 degree F increase with the deflector removed. Coolant also runs hotter with it removed.

Good luck.

gisom

It looks like it is time to replace your o2 sensors. p0420 means sensor behind the convertor is not responding. Your other sensor is engine bay. That bracket for the trans is to hold a small filter in place between the solenoids. The two big filters for the trans do not need brackets to hold them in place.

e_net_rider

Appreciate that info. The filter kit I got had only the two biguns. Don't remember seeing the one you mention. Hopefully I find a picture before I go at it. A shop told me they generally just flush the two large ones. Never mentioned that small one.

e_net_rider

Appreciate info on codes. Does anyone know the source fuse for the power to heat the sensors or are not these heated? Thought I'd look above and in before jacking and crawling around under. Note: A problem I found some time ago could be contributory to early demise of O2 sensors. I'm not sure what the original was, but at each end of the plastic tube feeding the PCV valve the connector was replaced with a short lenth of rubber hose. The end at the manifold, partially due to the cover, was collapsed and consequently it was not doing its job. Result would be a rich engine and a dirty one on the inside. One look in the oil fill verified that.

e_net_rider

Thanks for the info. It being missing may explain some of the hacks. Fans hot wired so they are on all the time. Thermostat missing. I've redone the cooling system and have had no hot problems so far. In fact the dang thing seems to be very cold blooded, especially for a V-8. Hadn't delved into the fan thing yet as I didn't understand enough about it until recently. Now believe that I may be able to reconnect the leads to the relay power feed box (front rt.) Hope the relays and rest are OK so fans cycle as intended.

e_net_rider

Nice to see you here. If you own one of these stallions, hope its doing better than mine. (Actually wife bought it)

donnapaca

Thank you to all for the assistance. When I purchased belt from dealer they could not find any instructions in repair manual.
As suggested, the tensioner does have to be remover since there is not enough to install belt without its removal. The cover is metal and not plastic.
I do suggest that anyone that has not replaced the belt, check theirs as it is the only belt that drives the water pump. The car will only go about 1/4 mile before it over heats. Might even be a good idea to carry a spare belt

mike98c

is off I'd check and make sure the pulley spins freely and doesn't sound dry. I had a overheating problem at high (ahem) speeds that was caused in part by the pulley binding. The belt looked fine but was slipping and bouncing when the engine warmed up and the rpms were high.
If this happens the pulley can be replaced with an oem pulley from NAPA. The Caddy parts guy I called stated that a lot of belts are replaced and then fail again after a few thousand miles because either the pulley is getting hot and binding (if it sounds dry but still spins you can try lubeing it) or is worn and has enough play to allow the pulley to cock and wear the belt. As stated before on this forum I got over 100,000 miles on my belt and it still looked good when I replaced it.
Thinking bac I realize the first time I had the belt off was to replace the water pump and I took the tensioner off to reach the pump. The second time I got the belt loose and realized it would be easier if I had taken off the tensioner, ESPECIALLY as the pulley was bad anyways. Ohh well.

alcan

Nope, don't own an Aurora but a '96 Riviera. They're both G platforms but the family bloodline pretty much ends there. My institution is contracted with GM (and Chrysler) to provide all their dealer service training for our region, so I have access to their technical databases.

Older models are not supported. For 95 and earlier, TSB's only. 96-97, TSB's plus Engine and Transaxle. 98 and newer, all info.

Re your input speed sensor, it's on the upper valve body under the end cover, left (driver's) side. On the 14 pin transaxle connector, the terminals are:

S, BLACK, Automatic Transmission Input Shaft Speed (A/T ISS) Sensor HIGH
 
V, GREEN, A/T ISS Sensor Low

Sensor resistance should be 1300-1950 ohms, with no continuity to ground. If out of spec or infinity, check internal wiring then check sensor itself and repair/replace as required. If within spec, look for an open circuit between the transaxle and the powertrain control module.
 

stickking1

Hey, nice write up about the speakers on the previous page. My driver's side rear door speaker is doing just what you described and that'll give me another angle of attack.

You guys have been busy these last few days...Me? I think my EGR is bad again! Same symptoms that I had some 6 or 8 months ago. Got the TECH 2 out and will be checking the code tonight. It's an Autozone part, but they don't usually warranty electrical parts (if I remember correctly). When I put the new one on last year, it cleared the problem right up, but I don't understand what would make the new one fault so quickly. I know I have a bit of carbon build-up in there (she is 10 years old), but I'm not a supporter of scraping that gunk loose...you could search my original post for the long-winded reason. :-) We'll see what the almighty TECH has to say about it tonight.

On a side note, I just got back from Houston this morning.
Houston Temp today: 68 degrees
Lansing Temp today: 12 degrees!!!! :-(

rjs200240

You lucky [non-permissible content removed]...

stickking1

It pays to have friends over at GM. The Tech said high-idle error...something along those lines. I have the exact message back at home. Kind of a pain, cause that's just a symptom, not really the problem. But it'll give me a direction to head. My gut still says the EGR (again), I'll see who I can complain to over at Autozone to get a new one, we'll see.

mrdubya

when we were discussing the filter being replace, possible causing the solenoid failure, we wern't talking about the "transmission filter" there's a small tube filter inside the lower control valve body, shaped like a role of dimes, but a little smaller (all i could think of hehe)

Henry

I just washed the old (1995) girl. WOW WOW WOW is the paint in trouble. Supposedly, it is jut the clear coat , but it looks horrible. When the weather clears up I am definitly looking at a big buff jog to see if the scratches can be buffed out. If not, the old girl needs a new paint job.

I guess 2 years from now she is going to be going under the knife for a face lift.

stickking1

Hey Henry, can you describe the problem? I know I have some funny areas on my paint, that I'm positive are not from me...but I have yet to figure out what is causing them. Mine are straight lines along some of the body panels, most noticible on the "shoulders" of the car (above the front wheels). Almost look like very fine scratches. How 'bout you?

Henry

The paint defect shows up as sracthes on all of the flat surfaces of the car. That is why you are noticing the fenders. I was told it was a defect in the paint that is happening on more than a few Classics. I guess your environment will determine how quickly they appear.

We are talking about the same thing. It scratches look like someone has taken a hair brush to the car.

Henri

hammen2

How do you guys wash your car? Take it through an automatic car wash with brushes or rags, or a "touchless" one? If you wash it yourself, do you use 2 wash mitts (one for the top part of the car, one for the lower) and two buckets, one for rinsing and the other for soap/wash solution? What about drying the car - towels, microfiber, ???

There's lots of things that could be causing the scratches, and I don't think any of them are Olds'/GM's fault. Both of you have '95's, right? Essentially your paint jobs are now almost 9 years old - 9 years in a hostile environment will cause scratches and paint chipping.

Now, if you complained about orange peel on your paint, or paint peeling off in strips (like late 80's/early 90's domestics), you'd have an issue...

I am very careful at taking care of the paint on my '98, but the black shows any and all imperfections. My most recent problem is the place next door to where I work - they manufacture and paint snowplow blades - and they had another problem with paint overspray (happened in '96 when I bought my new Lumina - my first new car - had tons of orange splotches on it). This time it's orange, yellow, and blue spots, much smaller, but still enough to be noticeable (especially on the windshield, driving into the sun :-(. The company has to pay for a total wetsand job on about 20 cars. Needless to say, I now park around the other side of the building :-)

--Robert

Henry

I dont take my car through commercial car washes. I would get my Aurora membership revoked automatically for such an atrocity.

stickking1

Yeah, I would venture to say that there is no more well-cared for Aurora in the state (Am I the only one on here in Michigan? ;-) No auto washes (except the occasional no-touch in winter), and always a two bucket hand wash. I am a fiend for proper car care.

These marks I am seeing are not from me, and I've never seen them on any other cars I've worked on. Very peculiar straight-line "scratches" on certain areas of my car. I thought it was my wash routine causing them, but after further study I have decided that it just isn't me. They cannot be felt by hand and I have tried everything in my arsenal to remove them, to no avail. I can hide them very easily with the right glaze/carnauba combo..but this is a temporary solution, of course. Just something that has bugged me ever since I had the eye to notice them.

I guess it gives me a good reason to be out washing and waxing all summer!

rjs200240

Wonder if the clear is failing? I think it can get sort of little straight scratchmarks when it starts to fail. I think it's called "checking" of the clear. Any picts of it? If that's the case, just keep it well waxed to slow the failure. I assume you wouldn't want to repaint the car.

Henry

Thats what the dealer told me about the paint. That the clear coat was the problem (no the paint itself).

95mushroom

sounds likes the clear is shrieking like stretch-marks on a body

jlhartnett

My 95' Classic also is manifesting the clear coat crazing paint problem. Seemed to start all at once out of the blue. Like the rest of you, I at first thought I was responsible but after careful inspection it looks as if the problem is occuring from deep in the clear coat. Bummer. I have not heard of any Olds technical bulletin that addresses this problem?

rjs200240

You can get some paint from 2001 and newer for practically a steal. It comes with newer seats and such too.

Henry

That the 95's started it all. How can you talk so causally about puting "Dad" out to pasture?
Just because he has a few "wrinkles".

Remember "Luke" 95 is your "Father."

Henri

stickking1

I have tried to take pics before, but they never turn out quite right. I'll keep trying and one of these days I'll get it. Hartnett hit the nail on the head...my issues also seem to look like they are inside the paint, if that makes any sense.

On a lighter note, I'll be trying out Meguiar's new NTX wax this weekend (I should get my shipment on Friday). My brother's shop will be closed down for the weekend, so I will have all of Saturday and Sunday to wash and wax indoors. I'll probably go the full mile and get a good session in with my Porter Cable polisher before the wax. It's been a few months since I went through a full detail, and I want to give this new stuff a fair comparison to my current favorites. I'll have plenty of pics then. :-)

-Brian

stickking1

Blah...I meant, NXT wax.

pizza442

Yep, my silver/gray 95 has had the ultra-fine horizontal lines that have been barely there since we bought the car in Oct 2000. More visible recently since I have not been washing it often and hasn't really been waxed in a while.
Jay

daveb16

Hi, I am new to this board, and I am having some problems with my windows on my 96 Aurora. It started with my rear window defroster not coming on when I pressed the dash board button. When I took my car in for an oil change I asked my mechanic to check the fuses under the back seat (too cold up here to do it myself). All fuses and relays checked out OK but when I went to leave, none of the power windows would work. I can't say for sure that the fault started here, as I said, it is cold and I don't put the windows down much this time of year, so the problem could have started the same time the defroster went out. My mechanic pulled the switch panel on the door, seems that it isn't getting ground, but the mirror and seat buttons work OK. His guess is that a ground wire has failed where the harness goes through the door, had the same problem on my old Audi. I have noticed that the little LED on the top of the drivers window switch is out unless you press one of the other window buttons on that switch, sounds like a short circuit sort of ...

Anyway, I would appreciate any suggestions or comments you may have.

ethink

Is anyone aware of a GM TSB for using Time-Sert aluminum bolts when replacing the gaskets for the cylinder heads?

I need this information to support a Warranty Claim for my car.

The service manager at the dealer believes that there is a GM TSB that recommends the use of Time-Serts in this situation. Unfortunately, the dealership has NOT been able to find a GM TSB that documents this recommendation.

I would appreciate any help and assistance in tracking down this GM TSB. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

mike98c

It's the only G.M. recommended repair for pulled threads in the block.
  I'd get the number and call the G.M. zone office and explain the situation as well as writing them a polite letter.
  I WOULD'NT let that dealers shop do the repair. Caddy dealerships should be very familiar with the Northstar engine and be familiar with the repair, that engine has been around since the early nineties!

ethink

The GM dealership (Curran Cadillac in Westport, CT) IS very familiar with Time-Serts for use when replacing tha gaskets for the cylinder heads on the Northstar engine.

Unfortunately, the aftermarket warranty company, WarrantybyNet, wants proof that this is a GM-recommended procedure.

Therefore I amlooking for the appropriate TSBs.

alcan

Here's the first:

Document ID# 641062
Info - New Thread Repair Kit for Damaged Engine Block Bolt Holes #99-06-01-015 - (10/04/1999)

1993 Cadillac Allante, Sixty Special (FWD)
1993-96 Cadillac Fleetwood
1993-99 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1994-99 Cadillac Concours
1995-1999 Oldsmobile Aurora
1999 Marine

with 4.0 L or 4.6 L Engine (VINs C, Y, 9 -- RPOs L47, LD8, L37)

Information
A thread repair kit (Kent-Moore J 42385-500) is available to repair damaged engine block bolt holes for the cylinder head bolts and the crankshaft main bearing bolts. Installation instructions are included with each kit.
 

Here's the second:

Document ID# 742394
Info - Enhanced Aluminum Engine Component Thread Repair Process #00-06-01-016 - (08/10/2000)

1993 Cadillac Allante
1993-2001 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1994-1999 Cadillac DeVille Concours
1996-2001 Cadillac DeVille
2000-2001 Cadillac DeVille Touring
1997-2001 Chevrolet Corvette
1998-2001 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-2001 Oldsmobile Aurora (V8)
1999-2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora (V6)
1998-2001 Pontiac Firebird

with 2.2 L, 3.5 L, 4.0 L, 4.6 L or 5.7 L Engine (VINs F, H, C, 9, Y, G, S -- RPOs L61, LX5, L47, L37, LD8, LS1, LS6)

An enhanced thread repair process has been developed for use on General Motors aluminum engine components for the above listed engines. The thread repair kits used for this process represent a significant advancement in aluminum component thread repair, providing consistently repeatable high quality repairs which, when properly performed, will meet or exceed the original specifications. This enhanced thread repair process can, and should, be used to repair aluminum engine components, instead of complete engine replacement, whenever possible. Kent-Moore has distributed these thread repair kits to General Motors dealerships as part of their essential tool packages. The J 43965 Thread Repair Extension Kit has proven to be invaluable in the repair of difficult to access thread repair locations. Listed below are the Engine VINs / RPOs and the applicable Kent-Moore essential tool thread repair kits.

Engine VIN / Engine RPO
Kent-Moore Thread Repair Kit Number
 
VIN G, S/ RPO LS1, LS6
 J 42385-100 Main Cap/Head Bolt Kit

J 42385-200 General Thread Repair Kit

J 42385-300 Fixture and Hardware Kit
 
VIN 9, Y, C / RPO L37, LD8, L47
 J 42385-500 Main Cap/Head Bolt Kit

J 42385-2000 Thread Repair Kit
 
VIN H / RPO LX5
 J 42385-600 Thread Repair Kit

J 42385-625 Thread Repair Kit

J 42385-650 Thread Repair Kit

J 42385-675 Complete Thread Repair Kit

Important
J 42385-675 Contains the contents of 600, 625 and 650 Thread Repair Kits)
 
VIN F / RPO L61
 J 42385-850 Thread Repair Kit
 
ALL
 J 43965 Thread Repair Extension Kit

Consult the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual or Kent-Moore thread repair kit for complete detailed instructions on the proper use of the above thread repair kits.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation * Description * Labor Time
 
J1900 * Engine Assembly Thread Repair * 0.1-0.3 hr
 
Important
This Thread Repair Labor Operation can only be used in conjunction with other component Labor Operation numbers

ethink

For the GM TSB #s for the use of Time-Serts

pizza442

Engine light came on while my wife was driving our 95, went out after 10 minutes; a couple of times. Popped the hood and saw moisture had sprayed on the air intake hose. One of the two rubber-coated fuel lines had a pinhole leak right before it goes back to hardline and into the intake. I assume this is not the usual fuel rail leak. But, has anyone replaced this shiney plastic fuel line? It looks like the plastic is heat-shrunk onto the hardlines. Does the rubber line come separate or complete with the hard lines at both ends? Anyone do one of these yet?
Jay

larryfl

My '95 had a similar leak a year ago. There are three plastic (?) fuel lines coming from the firewall to the intake. One of those sprung a leak. My neighborhood mechanic simply ordered a high pressure hose of the same diameter (don't know if it was specifically for fuel lines or not - that's what I pay him for, to know what will work) and replaced it. He only charged me like $20 for the length of hose and another $10 or so for replacing it.

mike98c

My bad, I just assumed it was another bad dealer and let that color the way I read your post!

hammen2

Hey fellow Aurorians,

Since our second spell of this sub-zero weather here in Wisconsin, my Aurora's oil light has been coming on for 2-3 seconds on a cold start (10 degrees F or colder). This has happened even spanning an oil change (10W30) last Wednesday. I've obviously checked the oil level and it's fine. I've even tried letting the car sit in the ignition position (w/o turning it over) for 5-10 seconds - still comes on for 2-3 seconds on a cold start.

It takes the Driver Info Center 2-3 seconds to boot up, but once I hit it, the oil pressure is climing from the 20's up to 67 or so, where it remains until the engine is warm. It's around 46-49 and freeway cruising speeds. I don't see the oil light on warm starts, or cold starts above 10 degrees F or so.

I know that cold oil flows slower, but is this possibly the sending unit going bad, or the sign of something more ominous? I don't hear any squealing/clicking/tapping noises at startup.

Just wondering,

--Robert
whose favorite feature this time of year is the heated seats.

rjs200240

It sounds like it's just the cold oil not wanting to flow as easily. You should probably switch to 5w-30 (that's what is recommended for my car) and maybe a 0w-30 in the winter. I doubt it is sensor related since it is only on startup in cold weather. Given the extreme cold, I'd suggest a synthetic also. I think it's your oil, not your car...

stickking1

I would tend to agree. Usually I will change to 5w-30 around the end of November and run that through winter...but if I try to push it my car will do the same thing when it gets really cold out. When I have 5w-30 in, I rarely see the oil light at startup, and if I do it is just for a second at most. I'm also using Mobil 1 year round.

And yes, it would be hard to make it through winter without those heated seats

-Brian

garnes

My heated seat warms up so slow it's not worth so much. By the time it starts to warm, it's basically defrosting my butt. On our Impala, the seats heat fast.

kayaman420

Its been a rough last couple of months.

1. Fuel pump went out. Got stuck on the side of the road and was forcced to use a high priced shop to repair it. $700 parts and labor.

2. 1 week after fuel pump went out my fuel rail cracked. $323 parts and labor.

3. 1 week after fuel rail I get a batch of VERY VERY bad gas that causes 6 of my injectors to blow and severely flood my engine. $1000 parts and labor for All 8 Fuel injectors and 8 park plugs plus a few oil changes.

4. 1 week after injectors my FPR goes out. $100 parts and labor.

Man I love this car sooooooooo much.lol

Right now Im having a voltage concern. My car is always running above 15 V. Ussually at or around 15.5V. I checked with a Voltometer and it is correct. Is the only thing this can be is the Alternator??? i would hate to get a new one for nothing. Still has the original battery if that means anything.

Only other thing is my darn windows will not stay fog free for nothing. A/C on or not. Ive tried all the settings and nothing works. Its fine if Im the only one in the car , but if there is 2 or more people riding along I have to keep the heat full blast just so i can see out of the windshield. Is this a heater core? Or a common Aurora problem. The heat works great it just doesnt defogg the windows at all. Moisture somewhere???

Thanks for any help fellas

http://members.cardomain.com/kayaman420

rjs200240

Fogging, yeah I'd check the heater core for leaking coolant. Can you smell coolant in the car? Maybe there is some other leak of rainwater? My Corvette had terrible fogging problems when it rained until I replaced the weatherstripping.

Excess volts is probably the regulator in the alternator. I wonder if you could just replace that, since it sounds like the alternator itself is just fine. Could it be a bad ground or something so that the regulator can't bleed off the voltage? I don't really know how the regulator works, so I'm just guessing...

The fuel stuff, man that sucks. Can you get some reimbursment from the gas station that had the bad fuel?

mike98c

Is your battery good? I had wierd symptoms and codes as well as 15v. output that wouldn't drop down. The battery registered 13v. but when it was load tested it failed. The new battery cleared up the problems. Best off all load testing is free. You could also get the alternator tested if you have to remove it to get to the regulator. Or: Autozone tested the regulator for me after I removed it from another of my cars alternators.

kayaman420

Thanks for the battery info. I was hoping someone would tell me they had a similar problem with an old battery. I still have the original so I would think after 9 years it has to be bad by now. I want to change it just for the age alone and now that you told me you had similar problems with an old battery hopefully that fixes my problem too.

The alternator seems to function quite well. No flickering lights or anyting. So I think its ok.

Your in the Twin Cities arent you Mike? Isnt this below zero weather great? Do you have any defrosting problems with your windows? If you dont then i know something is wrong with mine for sure.

mike98c

Yes I am in the Twin Cities. Yes it's just a little brisk!
  My defrost is working okay.
  The first Auroras I know didn't have a recirculation button but does it have a reciculation mode to somehow get stuck closed? Also is your coolant maintaining the same level?