Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

blk97aurora

The glass bulb is about 0.12" diameter; the plastic base is 0.31" diameter, and the entire package is about 0.33" long.

95mushroom

can you tell me more of what the new FPR did and how much/where'd u get it?

alcan

Oops, I should have read a bit further. Looks like a replacement remote has to be programmed using a Tech II (GM dealer) scan tool:

Document ID# 479346
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

Transmitter Programming

Important
All transmitters which are to be recognized by the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) must be programmed in a single programming sequence. If the system is placed in program mode, all previously programmed transmitters will be erased upon the receipt of the programming signal from the first transmitter. Up to four transmitters may be programmed. Do not operate or program the transmitters in the vicinity of other vehicles that are in the keyless entry program mode. This prevents the programming of the transmitters to the incorrect vehicle. The order in which the transmitters are programmed is important. The first transmitter programmed will be transmitter #1, and the second transmitter programmed will be transmitter #2. The number on the transmitters are for reference only: #2 can be programmed as #1, or vice versa. Additional unnumbered transmitters are also available. Use care to program the transmitters correctly.

Install a scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Use the scan tool Remote Function Actuation Special Function: Program Key Fobs in order to place the remote control door lock receiver into Program Mode. The doors will lock and then unlock in order to confirm program mode.

Important
The scan tool must stay connected until all of the transmitters are programmed.

Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button simultaneously on one transmitter. After a delay of 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock in order to confirm the programming of that transmitter.
Repeat the previous step in order to program up to 4 transmitters.
Remove the scan tool.
Operate the transmitter functions in order to verify correct system operation.
 

the_nacc

Thanks for the "Transmitter Programming" post

It looks like I will need to take a trip to the Dealer for this one. I dont have a GM Scan Tool and I dont know how one works.

I am just trying to save a little cash buy doing it myself.

Please let me know if you come up with anything else that can help me do it on my own.

The Nacc

e_net_rider

Picked up at Pep Boys, is a Borg-Warner, and looks exactly like the one removed. Auto seems to start fine now, but as mentioned I put my foot in it a couple of times and immediately noticed the roar out the back end wasn't there. So much quieter that it was the first time I heard air being sucked in. Also seems to have less power. I don't have a fuel pressure tester, but am going by Autozone and try to find out if I'm still getting DTC's for the O2 sensors. Suspect the failure was due to being rich.

e_net_rider

Looks like they get us on this one. Was to the dealer several weeks back for an extra key. They didn't have the blank, but it was $30 and observed the pricing on the wall. Transmitter + programming was in excess of $100. I think it was $70 for the transmitter.

e_net_rider

any experience in this area. The actuators work, as I can hear them. The manual lock on the door doesn't move and the door doesn't lock or unlock except with the manual.

javidogg

Sounds like your motors from the locks might be burned out, if they don't move at all, my lock turn on when I put the car in the Reverse or Drive gear.

Peace.

rjs200240

if the actuator moves, maybe take the door panel off. It could be they just aren't connected anymore. Odd that this would happen to all the doors, though. I could see one maybe from chance or from the door being slim-jim'd or something... weird.

e_net_rider

It is the two front doors. I had one of the panels off once and really couldn't see much of anything. The access holes seem mighty small. Does anyone know the procedure to change a motor. I'm hoping its a linkage problem. Had such on a buick once. Cheap plastic retainer clips had broken. Hope I don't have to pull the window and regulator to get at it.

Henry

The fact that the doors lock when you put the car in gear is a programming choice. Not all Aurora's are programmed that way. For example, my doors don't unlock automatically after I park the car (I told the dealer to reprogram the car so that the doors dont open).

Just a point of information.

Henri

teetertotter

Hey everybody! As the proud new owner of a '99 Classic with about 92k, I just couldn't think of a better subject line. I feel like I already know some of you guys- I've gone through just about all the postings, and they've been a great help for direction, but not a solution, so here's the deal: I purchase this thing with a stumble under light to moderate acceleration (full throttle/ downshift usually seems fine), and at first it would stall at idle (occasionally). I tossed new stock plugs and Bosch wires on it, which eliminated the stalling but not the stumble. Oh yeah, it throws codes for #5 misfire and an evap code (which shouldn't cause a problem).I went ahead and replaced the coil pack for #5, then the fuel pressure regulator today, but as you may have already surmised, it still runs poorly. Note: it starts fine (hot or cold), and the stumble doesn't seem to show up when the engine is cold. I'm thinking egr valve, but wouldn't I have a code pointing in that direction by now, or is there something I'm missing? I'm starting to miss the quarter-million-mile Honda this replaced...Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

hammen2

Yes, but that quarter-million-mile Honda didn't have the looks or style of the Aurora :-)

Read through the posts (search for Bosch) and you'll see that folks generally don't have success with non-AC Delco plug wires.

I agree that EGR valve might be the next thing to look at. I also had the IAC motor start to die on mine - under warranty, took it to the dealer, so I don't know which code it threw.

Today's adventure - a 20 minute work errand where my security light stayed on solid. I even turned the car off at a stoplight and restarted 5 seconds later, but the light stayed on. Of course, it went off when I turned into the driveway at my work...

Also, I'm having warm-start issues (have to crank it a little bit, doesn't want to start the first time). With 77K miles (I can't believe I put 50K on it in a little under 3 years - had only 66k on my almost-5-year old Lumina when I got rid of it for the Aurora). I guess it's time to look into replacing the FPR...

--Robert

mike98c

You may have seen in some posts from last year that I replaced wires with Boschon the neighbors Aurora. We ended up returning them as defective and getting AC-Delco wires. The Bosch wires had poor connectors and high resistance and the car would stumble under light to moderate load. The AC-Delco platinum plugs also work better than the other brands in the Northstar. I've tried several other brands.

The EGR in my personal experience can deteriorate enough to warrant removal and cleaning of the shaft and passages before a code may be set.

e_net_rider

Seems the warm hard start is gone because of the FPR. So I had the codes read yesterday. 105,108,139,153,717, 1660. Dang, bunch of new stuff and hope I set most of them in my digging around. 153, & 717 are the same, but the others are new to me. Possibly the first two are related to MAP, but have no idea about the others.
Trying to find an easy way to read that tranny 717 ckt. The connectors at the tranny are pretty well buried.
I had her reset the computer. The first start was a bit delayed and then it had a very high idle for awhile. Also SES displayed, but may have been from keyon. A reset took care of it. Last time it was about 4 resets and then it showed up for a few cold starts.
Where is the PCM?
Where is the MAP?
What are these codes?

e_net_rider

Earlier you gave me info on reading the transmission sensor. Post 1501. You did not indicate the connection at the PCM. Can I bother you again?

e_net_rider

A couple of days ago it suddenly showed up. handling feeling a bit loose. No hard bumps. The worst was probably kicking it hard. Tires were down 3# mostly because of cooler temps, which helped a little. Feels like a bit more play in the steering wheel. Guess I need to do some shaking. Does anyone have the torque for the spindle nut (CV shaft). Mine have orange paint on end and question if someone replaced. Besides I'm hearing something that might be a noisy joint.

e_net_rider

I was bragging to my son-in-law how well these Khumos hold after he was telling me his truck tires weren't. The roads were wet last night so I give the antilock and traction a work out again. I'm convinced you'd have to put oil under them to make them slip. What I perceive as a problem acts like a delay from pedal to actual heavy braking. GM's seem to need more pedal than Fords. Fords you work with a feather. But I think this thing is out of line. My brain to foot is getting slower (natural with age), and I don't apply to actuation extended.
Is there some sort of filter on the booster that could cause this?

hammen2

You can look up some codes (but they don't have info for all) at http://www.obdii.com/codes.asp

Hope this helps,

--Robert

alcan

Or here:

http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/

alcan

Powertrain Control Module (PCM): Behind lower RH of I/P, near back of I/P Compartment
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Top LH front of Engine, under intake COVER
Hub nut torque: 107 lb ft (145 Nm)

What year is your Aurora? Save me wading through old posts.

teetertotter

Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll buck up and try the AC Delco wires. One other question- when I replaced the fpr, it really didn't seem to seat very well- the retainer clip held it in place, and it doesn't leak (not externally, anyway); do these normally sit flush w/out the clip, or should I take another stab at it? And yes, I did ensure that there's only one o-ring.

e_net_rider

96 Aurora

hammen2

Something's definitely up with my Aurora and starting. I'll turn the key into the start position, and it won't crank/turn over until I've kept the key in the start position for at least 2 seconds - and then it kinda chugs as it turns over (and goes into a high idle for 2-3 seconds). It only does this on warm starts. This doesn't sound like a FPR problem... ideas? I'm calling the dealer tomorrow (extended warranty, here I come)... I think I may try my other set of keys, just in case it's a Pass-Key issue...

--Robert

javidogg

Hey People here are some significant dates in Oldsmobile History:

1864: Ransom Eli Olds is born in Geneva, Ohio.

1900: The name Oldsmobile is adopted after R.E. Olds ran a "Name the Car" contest, won by his timekeeper.

1904: The first Oldsmobile to have a steering wheel instead of a filter rod.

1908: Oldsmobile becomes a part of General Motors Corp.

1924: Olds makes steel wheels an option.

1934: Oldsmobile makes hydraulic brakes and independent front-wheel suspension available for the first time in the industry.

1950: Ransom Eli Olds dies.

1955: Olds makes the industry's first four door hardtop.

1966: Oldsmobile leads the industry with the introduction of a front-wheel drive vehicle.

1974: The industry's first air bag appears in an Olds Toronado.

1987: A.J. Foyt sets closed-course world speed record of 257 mph in an Oldsmobile Aerotech.

2000: GM announces that the 2004 Olds will be the last.

Source:Histomobile
This was an article I happen to run into.

Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

Peace.

mike98c

Before tearing into the starter system and wires I'd take out a plugs (ground the spark) and have someone crank the engine while watching the spark plug hole. Someone on the Caddy info board a few (3?) years ago had that problem and it actually turned out it was the fuel leaking into a cylinder but in his case the fuel was from a leaky injector partially locking the cylinder.
 The warm start part is a symptom of a bad FPR but probably not the only possibility.

mike98c

I posted a couple time before I really like those tires even though they look kinda like cop gumballs. They are my summer tires. They also are one of the few tires that after they heat up and cool down a few hundred times, the tread doesn't start to get greasy feeling on the road.

e_net_rider

easier way to start eliminating the cylinder liquid lock.
Turn on lights on see if the starter draws them down, before it starts spinning. That should eliminate half of the areas to look.

e_net_rider

Looks like I may have one on its way out. Used old test prodedure of back probing. Key on, idle, WOT. Had the ~5v across the terminals, but the key on for the variable out is in question. Full voltage, supposed to be about 0.5. Idle was correct and WOT response seemed OK but hard to follow on a DVM. Certainly not like a swinging needle VOM. Any ideas? I going to unmount and try reading the resistance.

e_net_rider

Scratch that idea. This thing is obviously more than a potentiometer. Weird resistance readings and no change on the output line led me to do a diode check. This thing has some electronics inside and maybe even a chip. I definitely need the troubleshooting procedure before proceding. $74 at local Olds so I need to procede differently until I'm absolutely certain.

mike98c

I don't think the light test would eliminate excess resistance in the wiring although that certainly will tell whether the starter is drawing current before it spins.

e_net_rider

Exactly. If lights don't dim, it eliminates the battery, compression lock, or starter windings and bearings as fault for complaint. That leaves defective solenoid, relays, ignition switch and associated wiring. Also power wiring to starter. A lot quicker and easier than pulling plugs and starter on a maybe.

Henry

I have seen posts about needing a new PCM because the rebuilt ones did not work in the Classic. Is it the samew person posting or is this a problem a few of us have enountered?

Henri

blk97aurora

hammen2,

When your engine is slow to turn over, do you hear the starter solenoid operate when the key is turned to start and then there is the 2-second delay? If so, that eliminates everthing upstream of the solenoid.

mike98c

You're right. I'm getting ahead of the diagnosis
by thinking about the Caddy board guys problem. I'd yell if the yrch at work tried to jump ahead like that lol. First things first.

hammen2

Actually, the car isn't even trying to turn over. This makes it less likely to be fuel-related (the fuel system is energizing, the gauges spring up, but the dash lights don't dim until the car actually tries to start, which can be 2-5 seconds after putting the key in the Start position).

Today it was worse. Coming back from lunch, I was on the "last try before calling AAA (had tried about 10 times)" when it finally started. Called the dealer and made an appointment for Monday morning. Tried to start it several times once I got to work, and it was very intermittent (problems when warm?).

Tonight when leaving work, started right up. However, right as I got out of the driveway at work, the Security light came on, and was on all of the way home. Remember, it did that earlier this week, too.

I'm thinking this is ignition switch/Pass-Key related. I have maybe 3 other key son a separate ring on the keychain, so I don't think it's the weight pulling which has caused this - either the contacts inside are dirty, the key is bad (forgot to switch to the other set this morning), or the switch needs to be replaced.

I guess we'll see on Monday...

--Robert

sbeaupre

It sounds like the switch or passkey to me. I'm leaning toward the switch (or more likely wiring harness) due to how I understand the system works. I've been told when the passkey values read incorrect, the engine will usually start and then kill depending on how quickly you insert the key and try to start it(can someone verify this?). That makes me think you have an ignition switch issue. But then your getting the security light which makes me think passkey issue. So my vote it in for the whole assembly or more likely a corroding or failing harness of some sort.

e_net_rider

Have you checked for codes just to see? Is it warm or cold and by this I mean compared to air temperature. I have seen where a slight change in temp can cause a borderline starter to drag, solenoid not to kick right away or make proper contact when it does. Corrosion or wear on the main contacts would do it, and be a progressive issue. There is inially just enough draw to heat and expand the contact to make good connection. The pass-key system? If the security light issue didn't start until later maybe it is a result of the real problem.

e_net_rider

Looking back, I find you had these problems. How did you diagnose the MAP. My info is for GM in general and checking my sensor the voltage for key on, engine off, (zero vacuum) is way high. Trying to find out if it is different for this vehicle as idle and WOT look OK. You wrote you had bad shifts with the input turbine sensor I think. Oddly mine seems to shift well.

mike98c

Just a thought. It doed sound electrical, besides the starter switch have you tried starting the car in neutral or moving the tranny shift.

hammen2

Friday night, driving home, the Security light came on again and wouldn't go off.

Saturday morning, switched ignition keys between my two fobs. No problems all weekend (though I stayed relatively "close-to-home" should I have a problem). No issues at all.

I called the dealer this morning and cancelled the appointment. Their parts department wants $35 for a replacement key. I sprayed some contact cleaner on the possibly bad key at work today, and I'm going to try it when I go home/run errands on the way home, to see if I can duplicate the problem. If not, consider this case closed.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions,

--Robert
(whose Aurora experience wasn't 100% today - driver side front tire was only 12 lbs this morning. Thank goodness for those cigarette-lighter-powered air pumps...)

kayaman420

enet--I had a code come on for the MAP. I got one from a GM wholesaler for like $30 so i just changed it out rather than waste time confirming the diagnosis.

teetertotter--if your FPR isnt seating right you might want to make sure you didnt leave a small oring from the old FPR inside the hole. When I was about to reassemble mine I noticed a very small oring that i was about to leave inside from the old FPR.

ALWAYS use AC delco parts for all igntion and spark related replacements. These engines are EXTREMELY suseptable to spark problems from aftermarkets. The stories are endless. i put in Bosch +4's once and i thought my engine was going to explode.

mrdubya

Got a question....Just picked up a escort 8500 - supposed to be 1 of the best radar detectors out there. any ideas on were the best place to mount it? im in MN, so i don't think there illegal, but not well liked by the "po-po" lol....seriously though, anyone have any clever mounting locations? i want to hard wire it, but it might be a pain because the batteries in the back, any input? thanks!

teetertotter

okay, advice taken, I installed the ac delco wires...it still stumbles! Kayaman, I know I removed the old o-ring, but thanks for the suggestion. I'll work on the egr next, unless anyone has any other suggestions.
Happy motoring!

blk97aurora

Mike,

Second best -- Valentine One is tops. Sorry, I couldn't help it.

I mounted my V1 just to the left of the inside rearview mirror and as high as possible. That way it has maximum sensitivity to radar and laser and is somewhat obscured by the dark windshield tint. I hard-wired it to the radio circuit so that it is turned on and off by the ignition switch. There's room for the V1's hard-wire module behind the dash panel that holds the center air vents.

I don't know if your 8500 has a remote read-out capability. I mounted the V1's remote centered under the dashboard overhang; it partially blocks high-beam and turn signal indicators, but not bad. The reason for the remote is to take away visibility from police and other drivers who may try to "eavesdrop" visually on your detector. Also puts it more in my line of sight.

mrdubya

http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleid=1064

sorry i couldn't resist!, but yours didn't fair to well, 3rd of 4

plus we sell it at my work, so i got it for 187 instead of 299.

just noticed, i got a universal hard wire kit, and the 8500 takes a "smart plug" basically a Rj11 plug and i need some adapter......probably have to order it from escort. 1 thing though, it says not to mount it behind "heavily tinted areas" in my manual, but i suppose smack dab in the middle of the windshield isn't a good idea! right now ill leave it in the bottom middle, untill i get the adapter to raise it by my mirror, then ill try to see how visible it is from outside the car.

blk97aurora

Mike,

Good price.

I'm willing to give up some laser sensitivity to the heavily tinted windshield; laser is quite rare where I drive. The higher position improves radar detection range and helps hide the detector. And the tint has no effect on radar frequencies, unless it is metallic -- that's a whole different ballgame.

kayaman420

Have you done anything with the coil packs? You might have a bad one. A good way to test it is to buy 1 new coil pack and switch it out with the other ones 1 at a time until you find the bad one. Lots of people have solved stumble problems this way. And if your stumble is well pronounced you wil easily know when you found the culprit.

Next guess would be fuel filter maybe. Also take off your EGR valve and visually look at it. If its clogged at all you will see it, but my money is on the coil pack being the problem.

mrdubya

well i found a good spot. because of how my mirror is tilted, i couldn't put the detector to the left of it unless i wanted to block the view. so im putting it to the right, above it (bottom actually rests on the mirror, it seems like it should work fine this way, i think it should have a clear view of the back window. nice thing is its out of site, but its got pretty loud alerts.

anyways......has anyone tried tapping into the power source from up by the lights? is there a continous hot up there thats not switched? id think there'd be quit a few wires up there, with the lights, visors, moonroof, autodimming mirror and all, but im not sure if they can take the extra load, i believe it draws 2Amps, its got its own 3Amp fuse in-line.

blk97aurora

Mike,

Sounds like a good spot, except you'll need to turn your head a fair amount if you want to see visual indicators.

My '97 service manual shows a 2mm brown wire feeding the sunroof control; it's on a 25-amp circuit breaker. Problem is that the module is behind the sunroof near the back light. And the circuit is hot only in run, accessory, and retained accessory power mode. The sunroof switch does not receive battery power directly as it just controls the control module.

The overhead dome and rail lights, garage door opener, and vanity mirror lights are fed by orange wiring. This comes through the
"inadvertent power control" circuit in the body control module. I believe this is the "battery saver" feature, which turns off power after 10 minutes or so.

The auto-dimming mirror wiring is pink and connected to a 10-amp fuse (IGN 1); it is hot in run or start only.

I believe there is no wiring in the area you're looking at that is hot at all times.

Why do you want to connect to continuous hot? I find it very convenient that my V1 is wired to a source (radio ckt.) that is switched on and off with the ignition key. That way I don't have to remember to turn it off manually, or worse -- forget to turn in on. I don't see a need to have V1 on when the car is not running.

Hope this helps