i guess i worded it kind of funny. im not looking for a continous hot, just somthing that isn't switched (like the lights) like you said, somthing tied into the ignition switch so its only on when the cars on is the best
so you think the pink wire would be my best bet? the manual said somthing to the effect it should be on a 2Amp circuit, so i don't think ill have a problem blowing the autodim mirror fuse.
my audible alerts are actually pretty loud, even with the radio on i can hear them just fine. not sure how the V1 works, but with mine the more the "threat" that faster it beeps untill a solid beep, so not seeing it in plain view isn't a big deal. plus in this location, no cop will ever see it unless they duck down inside the car, even ducking they cant't see it. and the display gets really dim if i want it to, and displays only "ad" when in "night mode, so cops can't see it at night very easily
good advice on the coil packs. I did replace the pack for #5 ( I was getting a misfire code), but I never tried rotating it through the rest. I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend...
I got it now. Given the area you are looking to make the connection, I would go for the orange dome/courtesy lamp wiring. It is fused for higher current, so the 2 amps for your 8500 should have less chance of overloading the circuit. Plus, the pink wire to the auto dim mirror is an ignition circuit. If that fuse blows, you'll not be driving. The thing I don't know is how the inadvertent power control circuit will work with your 8500 connected to it.
I still think the best source is the radio feed (yellow wire as I remember). I think you mentioned in a previous message that your 8500 using rj-11 jack and telephone wiring. So does my V1. I found it fairly easy to route the telephone cable along the top of the windshield, hidden by the molding, then down inside the a-pillar molding into the right side inside the dashboard and over to the radio.
My V1 has similar audio alerts for signal strength and differentiates the radar bands and laser. Loudness is not a issue; anything beyond 3/4 is plenty loud. (This is one of my many problems with Craig Peterson's review/rating of V1). I have come to realize in the last few years that my audible sensory perception is not very good; I struggle to differentiate different sounds and tones (volume is not a factor). So, visual is the way to go for me. Does your 8500 show you a count of radar sources? That's another reason I want to see my V1's display easily. Plus the indication of whether the threat is ahead or behind me.
I certainly agree that hiding the unit is extremely important; that's why I use the remote display.
yeah, i think that would be the best way, might as well do it right, run it to the radio ignition wire.
it will display the different bands at the same time (up to 8 i believe) if your in "expert mode" or somthing like that.
thanks for the help, the way i see it if this thing warns me just 1 time when im speeding, its more than paid for itself. i hear alot of mixed awnsers on this, but im told there not illegal in MN, but someone told me you can get a ticket? anyone know the right awnser? im using it either way, just be nice to know
If I were you I would just go to the vehicle and traffic laws of your state and do a serch for "radar" and "radar detector". Or simply call the DMV or local police department or state troopers. If they are illegal the police will be able to tell you the code section of the law since he/she has to write it on the ticket.
I personally never go by word of mouth on something about the law.
In the US, use of radar detectors is illegal in non-commercial vehicles in VA and DC; used to be illegal in CT as well, but that law was rescinded. Use in commercial vehicles (buses, 18 wheelers, etc.) is illegal across the US.
I don't know how one could get a ticket in MN. Maybe the police are getting creative and claiming "obstruction" or something like that. I'm not a lawyer.
To follow up on Henry's suggestion, you might go to the National Motorists Association website (www.motorists.org). It lists traffic laws by state plus much more information.
Have posted several messages here on the stalling problem in the winter. It's still doing it! Now I've got some oil leaks. Took it to the dealer and they say it's leaking everywhere and want to drop engine to the tune of $2500. In addition, now my windows won't go up and down. Recently had radiator replaced, appears that they cut the wire to the air filter sensor and taped it. Sensor fell off somewhere... Now the check engine light is on and it will have to be rewired. Needless to say, we're looking at time to let it go. My 96 has over 123K on it. It's been a fairly good car except for unusual problems like the stalling. Any suggestions on trade in vs. selling? Looks like the value is so low, either way isn't going to help much. It's been interesting reading about other Aurora's, keep posting! Thanks!
Been a few weeks since the delivery of our boy. I was successfully able to drive my wife to the hospital in the Aurora, and bring the family home in the Aurora, thanks to all your assistance with the serpentine belt swap. I still have to do the water pump belt, sounds like its just a loosen tensioner, slide off serpentine belt, replace water pump belt, put serpentine back in place and I am good to go.
At current I have another topic. Sereral months ago, I was playing with the indoor cabin temp. It appeared that there was a default temp of 82 degrees for the inside cabin, and when I started the car, it would try to get to 82. I held down both the heat and cold buttons and got into a set mode, where I could adjust this default temp. However, I never figured out how to get out of the set mode. My temp screen shows SET and displays the setting of the internal temp, and never shows the outside temp cause I am stuck in SET mode. Anyone know how to get out of this set mode? The owners manual does not seem to show how I can get out of this mode.
I was thinking I could disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so and that would do it, but I would rather avoid it, if possible. If for no other reason, that its a pain to take out 3 car seats from the rear seat!
What they will get you for here is if they can see anything asociated with the detector (ie. the cord) hanging down in the windshield. It is illegal in Mn. to have anything hanging from the rear view mirror or in the windshield.
Guess what you're more likely to get ticketed for, a troll hanging from the mirror or a detector cord hanging there taunting them.
Hey guys just looking for some advice. I have an opportunity to pick up a used radiator for dirt cheap $165 from an existing aurora with 37,000 miles on it. Mine has hairline cracks in it that have gotten really bad. I usually get a low coolant light within 20 miles of driving it now. Anyway, would you risk getting a used one?
How much is a new one? I would weigh the savings vs. length of time the 37k radiator can be expected to last. My experience with aluminum/plastic radiators is that 100,000 miles is about all you can expect. My '97 has just started leaking a small amount at 105,000 miles.
If you go with a used one, be sure it has an engine oil cooler if your Aurora has one. Engine oil coolers were dropped from production partway through the 1997 model year.
so im comming out of work, start my car, first thing i notice it the SES light stays on. then the dic flashes "CHANGE TRANS FLUID NOW" then it says "CHANGE OIL NOW". im thinking, what??? oil is 1 month old, trans fluid is 2 months old, besides, the trans fluid indicator has forever said "100%". so i reset them. anyone ever hear of this??? its not like my computer reset, because it still had my average MPG.
i then shut the car off, restarted it, SES light is still on, i tried after getting home, SES light is still on
You could go to Autozone and get the codes pulled fo free. If you don't know what the codes refer too after there pulled you can post the results here and I,m sure one of us would be happy to look them upfor you.
Resetting the ses: Disconnect the battery for several minutes and then reconnect. The ses light should be reset, of course if there is a recurring emissions related problem the lit light will recur.
Why is this radiator coming out of a vehicle with low milage. If it was whacked so bad it wasn't fixable, I'd stay away. Bending of the structure could very well have cracked it, even if damage in the area isn't visible. I wouldn't be afraid of a radiator with 100K if I knew the coolant had been maintained. Also some radiator shops will replace the end tanks. They carefully pry the prongs back that hold it in place and then put new seals and tanks on. I've seen 200K radiators with no trouble. You have to maintain. I also use a product originally intended for diesels. It coats the metal, makes the coolant wetter, and stops cavitation.
Disconnecting the battery on the OBDII will not erase codes. It will erase the learned part of run parameters. Autozone can erase them for you. In the meantime, just hit the reset button until the SES display goes away. It will come up for 3 cold starts if I remember correctly.
i erased the DIC stuff, but there's no way i can reset the SES, i believe its somthing like 30 restarts to reset it.
ive got a 95, so its obdI, but a OBDII plug, which is why last time i brought it to autozone they couldn't scan it, none of them would work. ive tried other times leaving the battery off for like 8 hours with no luck. perhaps i should spend some of my tax return on my own scanner.
Anyone have a suggestion for where to find a replacement plastic hub cap for my 96 Aurora? Had it all these years and never lost one. Had tires rotated this weekend and somewhere in the last few days, the front cap popped off. Retraced my steps but no luck. Suggestions appreciated.
I guess I can only speak to my experience but I used the disconnect method when the cat went bad and it worked fine several times when I tried it as well as when I finally put the new cat. on. I also used the scanner at our garage that maintains the company trucks and vehicles to reset the ses light and clear all the old codes with the new cat. on. This is an obd II car not obd I (98). Then had to replace bad 02 sensor (the one downstream that the system uses for comparision purposes).
I should also mention that e-net rider is correct. The disconnect will not actually erase the codes themselves. You can still pull up the codes to see what triggered the light. If the problem is taken care of the service manual says a certain number of miles over a certain speed an/or a certain number of restarts will clear the light. I looked it up last year and I'd look it up again but the manual is over where I'm working on the other Aurora.
I am quickly approaching the end of my 5yr 60K warranty on my 2001 Aurora 6 cyl. I have 45K miles on it along with a new transmission and some other fun stuff.
What can I say, I was overwhelmed after 9/11 so i bought American. I like the car, but I will be lucky to walk away break even if i trade it in.
So I am contemplating getting an extended warranty to take me to 100K. I figure if I keep it 100K which will equate to 5yrs I can consider it not a complete financial loss.
Can anyone here suggest a place to get an extended. And should i get it now? or wait until I approach the 60K end?
When I replaced the battery in my '97 about two years ago, I was not able to find any satisfactory alternatives to the vented ACDelco battery. I ended up paying ~$110 (less than MSRP) at a distributor. At 57 pounds it is Delco's heaviest car battery.
Since then, I have seen a couple of posts from people who have used gel electrolyte batteries. I don't have any more details.
There are two connectors on my 96. one located under the edge of the dash as expected. The other for the OBDII is located and loose up in the forward most left corner near the lower level of the dash. BTW, OBDII started phasing in at 1995. It was required by 97. Being 95 was the first year for this stallion, I'd bet it is OBDII.
Need them myself. Two are missing and the third some idiot RTV'ed it in place. That stuff can hold very well. So I'm thinking I may as well shoot for all four so they match. Dealer told me $30 some.
If you are going to buy the caps off of ebay be sure to get the used factory caps. There is a woman that is selling four new caps that are aftermarket caps. I brought them and they do not fit on the car correctly (slightly off). IMHO, you are better off geting the ones from GM that will definitly fit the car.
some 95's were obd II, some obd I, ours is I. all 96's are II. we're probably obdI because this car was finished in 93, and was originally slated for a 94 model year
Hi Les... I tried the search feature, didn't find much
I did read one of your posts.. "Robert, I looked at AutoTap early in the year (probably based on your recommendation). It does provide more functionality at about the same price; I decided to go with AutoXray because I didn't want to be tied to my laptop in the car, and I do not own a palm. It's good to have choices."
posted by black97aurora
most of the other posts were about getting a free read from autozone.
Nothing that realy touched on the different scanners available or recommendations
unless you are the only one who has a OBD II scanner, i'd like to see what others are using and share the input.
Your right, the first ones rolled out in spring of 94.
Though it does bug me that mine (Oct./Nov. 94 built date), would still have OBD I as there better/cheaper scanners for OBD II out there. That and all my family's cars have OBD II. W/o having to pay for a dual reader.
OK, is it normal for one's plug wires to apparently be arc'ing across the valve covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty (ordered the GM wires, $85 from the local Buick dealer - also bought a FPR for $38, figure I'll do this as well once the engine cover's off - of course, I'll do the plugs as well).
I looked at my mother-in-law's '98 (I've got 78k mi, she's got 72k) today, and they had obviously been arcing as well, though not nearly as bad as mine...
My car hasn't been hesitating or anything, other than the occasional have-to-crank-for-awhile on a warm start...
I bought an AutoXray EZ-Link OBD-II scanner about one year ago for $230; the cable and software enabling it to be connected to a computer for uploading scan and freeze-frame data to my PC and downloading software updates from the AutoXray website cost $65. I believe the EZ-Link model has been replaced by EZ-Scan 6000.
I am pleased with this scanner. It is stand-alone, as opposed to the types that run on a laptop or palm. It's not a Tech 1, but it costs considerably less. It has a two-line LCD that shows diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and pending codes with somewhat cryptic (but useful) text descriptions of the codes. It can clear DTCs. Real-time operational data (e.g., inlet air temp, coolant temp, ignition advance, air-flow rate, etc.) is available. It cannot do things like change MagnaSteer settings.
Software updates have been available on-line at no charge. For the price I paid, I have not seen anything better.
My Classic periodically illuminates the “Service Engine Soon” idiot light. Used to drive me crazy not knowing what was going on. Now I know it is usually DTC P0135 and/or P0155 – rear/front oxygen sensor heating circuit. Comes and goes. I plan to replace both of them this coming spring.
I have no connection to AutoXray except as a satisfied customer.
Arcing is very common on these engines when the wires get older. And since these engines generate so much heat they get older quicker then most other cars.
Back in late Dec., I posted message #1441 re: Northstar oil leak. When I took the car back to the dealer, the service manager offered to put it up on the rack to double-check thier original diagnosis that I needed to do the crank seal. He took me under the car and said "You can't show me a Northstar that isn't weeping some residual oil", and his advice was to wait to do this expensive repair. I have not driven the car for almost 2 months now (storage for the New England winters), and got home today to find oil (about 3-4 oz.) on the floor. Does anyone know if.. -the oil leak gets worse with a car with little to no use? -if by waiting, do I chance a catastrophic failure that could leave me on the side of the road..(had it happen once with a rear main seal on a Chevy 350..) - and lastly, for anyone who has had it done, is this repair going to last (with the so-called improved seal design)? Thanks for reading this "Harry Potter and the Lost Aurora" posting...
The leak will get worse gradually over time. I'm not sure if letting the car sit makes it worse or not - the 3-4 oz. for sitting sounds fairly minor. If you don't choose to get it repaired soon, I'd suggest you check your oil very frequently. It probably won't fail catastrophically, more like gradually, unless you're driving across country or something. When it really starts leaking pretty good, then I think your risk of catastrophic failure increases. I haven't heard of anyone having had to do this more than once.
I'm just happy I got mine done last year under my extended warranty. I've subsequently found an ASE-certified engine rebuilder that does this often enough that they charge $900 or so for the rebuild (versus the $1800 the dealer charged me/my warranty company).
The Northstar oil leak is not a pressurized leak it is a seepage. So you will not have a catastrophic failure as long as you keep the oil level full. Sitting or moving I dont think it makes a difference.
So as long as you can take the oil mess under your car just check the oil frequently and you should be fine.
Thanks everyone for the coments..I now have about four to five drops every morning on the floor. My inclination is to live with it, but my perfectionist side will probably crack me at some point, and I'll have to do the repair. On the optimistic side, I have read two GM bulletins regarding this. One addresses a leak through crankcase bolts, (easy fix w/o engine removal), and the others are crankcase and crankshaft seals, (both of which require I put the Aurora on Air Force One and fly to Bethesda Naval Hospital.
Anyone been luck enough to solve the problem with the former service bulletin repair?
I think i remember seeing some symptoms of this with other aurorians . the entire left side of my car is wet on the carpet.. what symptoms would this be ?
If memory serves, I think it was related to the drain tubes for the sunroof being blocked and the water backing up into the car. However, I am not sure since I don't have a sunroof. ---- Henri
Comments
so you think the pink wire would be my best bet? the manual said somthing to the effect it should be on a 2Amp circuit, so i don't think ill have a problem blowing the autodim mirror fuse.
my audible alerts are actually pretty loud, even with the radio on i can hear them just fine. not sure how the V1 works, but with mine the more the "threat" that faster it beeps untill a solid beep, so not seeing it in plain view isn't a big deal. plus in this location, no cop will ever see it unless they duck down inside the car, even ducking they cant't see it. and the display gets really dim if i want it to, and displays only "ad" when in "night mode, so cops can't see it at night very easily
thanks
I got it now. Given the area you are looking to make the connection, I would go for the orange dome/courtesy lamp wiring. It is fused for higher current, so the 2 amps for your 8500 should have less chance of overloading the circuit. Plus, the pink wire to the auto dim mirror is an ignition circuit. If that fuse blows, you'll not be driving. The thing I don't know is how the inadvertent power control circuit will work with your 8500 connected to it.
I still think the best source is the radio feed (yellow wire as I remember). I think you mentioned in a previous message that your 8500 using rj-11 jack and telephone wiring. So does my V1. I found it fairly easy to route the telephone cable along the top of the windshield, hidden by the molding, then down inside the a-pillar molding into the right side inside the dashboard and over to the radio.
My V1 has similar audio alerts for signal strength and differentiates the radar bands and laser. Loudness is not a issue; anything beyond 3/4 is plenty loud. (This is one of my many problems with Craig Peterson's review/rating of V1). I have come to realize in the last few years that my audible sensory perception is not very good; I struggle to differentiate different sounds and tones (volume is not a factor). So, visual is the way to go for me. Does your 8500 show you a count of radar sources? That's another reason I want to see my V1's display easily. Plus the indication of whether the threat is ahead or behind me.
I certainly agree that hiding the unit is extremely important; that's why I use the remote display.
it will display the different bands at the same time (up to 8 i believe) if your in "expert mode" or somthing like that.
thanks for the help, the way i see it if this thing warns me just 1 time when im speeding, its more than paid for itself. i hear alot of mixed awnsers on this, but im told there not illegal in MN, but someone told me you can get a ticket? anyone know the right awnser? im using it either way, just be nice to know
I personally never go by word of mouth on something about the law.
In the US, use of radar detectors is illegal in non-commercial vehicles in VA and DC; used to be illegal in CT as well, but that law was rescinded. Use in commercial vehicles (buses, 18 wheelers, etc.) is illegal across the US.
I don't know how one could get a ticket in MN. Maybe the police are getting creative and claiming "obstruction" or something like that. I'm not a lawyer.
To follow up on Henry's suggestion, you might go to the National Motorists Association website (www.motorists.org). It lists traffic laws by state plus much more information.
Been a few weeks since the delivery of our boy. I was successfully able to drive my wife to the hospital in the Aurora, and bring the family home in the Aurora, thanks to all your assistance with the serpentine belt swap. I still have to do the water pump belt, sounds like its just a loosen tensioner, slide off serpentine belt, replace water pump belt, put serpentine back in place and I am good to go.
At current I have another topic. Sereral months ago, I was playing with the indoor cabin temp. It appeared that there was a default temp of 82 degrees for the inside cabin, and when I started the car, it would try to get to 82. I held down both the heat and cold buttons and got into a set mode, where I could adjust this default temp. However, I never figured out how to get out of the set mode. My temp screen shows SET and displays the setting of the internal temp, and never shows the outside temp cause I am stuck in SET mode. Anyone know how to get out of this set mode? The owners manual does not seem to show how I can get out of this mode.
I was thinking I could disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so and that would do it, but I would rather avoid it, if possible. If for no other reason, that its a pain to take out 3 car seats from the rear seat!
Thanks!
Maytag
Guess what you're more likely to get ticketed for, a troll hanging from the mirror or a detector cord hanging there taunting them.
This is where I go. Usually atleast 40% lower than retail.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
How much is a new one? I would weigh the savings vs. length of time the 37k radiator can be expected to last. My experience with aluminum/plastic radiators is that 100,000 miles is about all you can expect. My '97 has just started leaking a small amount at 105,000 miles.
If you go with a used one, be sure it has an engine oil cooler if your Aurora has one. Engine oil coolers were dropped from production partway through the 1997 model year.
Les
so im comming out of work, start my car, first thing i notice it the SES light stays on. then the dic flashes "CHANGE TRANS FLUID NOW" then it says "CHANGE OIL NOW". im thinking, what??? oil is 1 month old, trans fluid is 2 months old, besides, the trans fluid indicator has forever said "100%". so i reset them. anyone ever hear of this??? its not like my computer reset, because it still had my average MPG.
i then shut the car off, restarted it, SES light is still on, i tried after getting home, SES light is still on
Resetting the ses: Disconnect the battery for several minutes and then reconnect. The ses light should be reset, of course if there is a recurring emissions related problem the lit light will recur.
Also some radiator shops will replace the end tanks. They carefully pry the prongs back that hold it in place and then put new seals and tanks on.
I've seen 200K radiators with no trouble. You have to maintain. I also use a product originally intended for diesels. It coats the metal, makes the coolant wetter, and stops cavitation.
ive got a 95, so its obdI, but a OBDII plug, which is why last time i brought it to autozone they couldn't scan it, none of them would work. ive tried other times leaving the battery off for like 8 hours with no luck. perhaps i should spend some of my tax return on my own scanner.
Or you can go to your local tire repair shop.
Stay away from the Olds dealer, they will charge you an arm or a leg for that piece.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
If the problem is taken care of the service manual says a certain number of miles over a certain speed an/or a certain number of restarts will clear the light. I looked it up last year and I'd look it up again but the manual is over where I'm working on the other Aurora.
I am quickly approaching the end of my 5yr 60K warranty on my 2001 Aurora 6 cyl. I have 45K miles on it along with a new transmission and some other fun stuff.
What can I say, I was overwhelmed after 9/11 so i bought American. I like the car, but I will be lucky to walk away break even if i trade it in.
So I am contemplating getting an extended warranty to take me to 100K. I figure if I keep it 100K which will equate to 5yrs I can consider it not a complete financial loss.
Can anyone here suggest a place to get an extended. And should i get it now? or wait until I approach the 60K end?
Thanks for your help.
the OEM Delco Freedom battery?
that is as good as, or better than the origional one?
tks
Dave
ps. just picked up a 97 with everything but the white option.. love the car
When I replaced the battery in my '97 about two years ago, I was not able to find any satisfactory alternatives to the vented ACDelco battery. I ended up paying ~$110 (less than MSRP) at a distributor. At 57 pounds it is Delco's heaviest car battery.
Since then, I have seen a couple of posts from people who have used gel electrolyte batteries. I don't have any more details.
Good luck.
Les
will continue to search.
one thing though, this site fantastic, but not
as user friendly as other boards.
the search function isn't the best i've seen
with all the electrical features, you'd figure there'd be separate forums.
oh well... something is better than nothing
dave
BTW, OBDII started phasing in at 1995. It was required by 97. Being 95 was the first year for this stallion, I'd bet it is OBDII.
any first hand experience or recommendations??
there are some palm pilot ones that are pretty sharp like this:
http://www.autologicco.com/
http://www.autoenginuity.com/
or something like this
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/pw/obdreader.htm
i've seen a few that are more gm friendly that can pull every code avaiable
what do you have? like it? hate it?
tia
dave
Henri
'95 Auroras are OBDI with OBDII connector.
Les
The topic has been discussed on this board; trying searching for "obd" or "scanner."
Les
much
I did read one of your posts..
"Robert,
I looked at AutoTap early in the year (probably based on your recommendation). It does provide more functionality at about the same price; I decided to go with AutoXray because I didn't want to be tied to my laptop in the car, and I do not own a palm. It's good to have choices."
posted by black97aurora
most of the other posts were about getting a free read from autozone.
Nothing that realy touched on the different scanners available or recommendations
unless you are the only one who has a OBD II scanner, i'd like to see what others are using and share the input.
Dave
Though it does bug me that mine (Oct./Nov. 94 built date), would still have OBD I as there better/cheaper scanners for OBD II out there. That and all my family's cars have OBD II. W/o having to pay for a dual reader.
I looked at my mother-in-law's '98 (I've got 78k mi, she's got 72k) today, and they had obviously been arcing as well, though not nearly as bad as mine...
My car hasn't been hesitating or anything, other than the occasional have-to-crank-for-awhile on a warm start...
--Robert
Sorry, I thought there was more there.
I bought an AutoXray EZ-Link OBD-II scanner about one year ago for $230; the cable and software enabling it to be connected to a computer for uploading scan and freeze-frame data to my PC and downloading software updates from the AutoXray website cost $65. I believe the EZ-Link model has been replaced by EZ-Scan 6000.
I am pleased with this scanner. It is stand-alone, as opposed to the types that run on a laptop or palm. It's not a Tech 1, but it costs considerably less. It has a two-line LCD that shows diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and pending codes with somewhat cryptic (but useful) text descriptions of the codes. It can clear DTCs. Real-time operational data (e.g., inlet air temp, coolant temp, ignition advance, air-flow rate, etc.) is available. It cannot do things like change MagnaSteer settings.
Software updates have been available on-line at no charge. For the price I paid, I have not seen anything better.
My Classic periodically illuminates the “Service Engine Soon” idiot light. Used to drive me crazy not knowing what was going on. Now I know it is usually DTC P0135 and/or P0155 – rear/front oxygen sensor heating circuit. Comes and goes. I plan to replace both of them this coming spring.
I have no connection to AutoXray except as a satisfied customer.
Les
Does anyone know if..
-the oil leak gets worse with a car with little to no use?
-if by waiting, do I chance a catastrophic failure that could leave me on the side of the road..(had it happen once with a rear main seal on a Chevy 350..)
- and lastly, for anyone who has had it done, is this repair going to last (with the so-called improved seal design)?
Thanks for reading this "Harry Potter and the Lost Aurora" posting...
I'm just happy I got mine done last year under my extended warranty. I've subsequently found an ASE-certified engine rebuilder that does this often enough that they charge $900 or so for the rebuild (versus the $1800 the dealer charged me/my warranty company).
--Robert
So as long as you can take the oil mess under your car just check the oil frequently and you should be fine.
Henri
I clean the underside and around the engine compartment once a year really well to keep it looking good.
Anyone been luck enough to solve the problem with the former service bulletin repair?
thanks!