I'm also curious about that oil pan removal procedure, if I recall right a while back, some mechanic told me that you have to remove the transmission to change the oilpan gasket...I hope that's not the case..why would they make such a bad design....sucks...
Wish I could help with the oil pan, but I haven't done that job yet myself.
Even though I love that care and am already planning to get another, I'll be the first to admit that it is a pain in the butt to service. I wouldn't doubt the story about dropping the trans to get to the oil pan.
Well, I have been seriously thinking about getting a new(er) Aurora now that I have a new job lined up. I wouldn't be looking to pick it up until next year (when I am sure my financial climate looks right), but the wheels are turning. I'm looking for either a 99 or a 2002, just have to decide which. I must say that there have been a few STS's around town that have caught my eye as well, but I just don't think I could tear myself away from the Olds....especially if someone ever sells a well-cared-for 2002 Cherry Metallic w/ a Corsa exhaust! :P :wink-wink: :nudge-nudge:
Methinks you've stumbled over the famous and feared 'Engine Block Oil Leak' - so dreaded by classic owners.
The short answer I have is that there is not an oil pan as we normally think of one. The designers actually split the block in two horizontally at the crank shaft. The early classics - like mine - are notorious for the gasket that separates the two halves to leak. Olds wants about 2K plus to fix it (at least you get an "improved" gasket kit that supposedly fixes it.
I'm told that the whole engine/trans comes out of the car to fix this. Mine has been leaking for about 20K miles now. It doesn't seem to effect anything except a dirty driveway.
I haven't delved into my leak yet. Someone had posted about pan leaks and somewhere there was something about the leaks sometimes being around the retaining bolts. The solution was to put sealer, probably black RTV around the bolts. Does this sound right? Is there more than one style of pan on the 4.0? I hoping and that mine will fix in this manner. Warm weather is here and coming due for oil change so I will soon get around to jacking it up. Any info before hand will be great. Anyone have the torque values for the bolts involved?
I think I posted that the Borg-Warner FPR solved the hard start warm, but seemed to induce less power and possibly a stumble near lean out. I talked to Borg and the engineer told me they use the specs GM gave them. I checked with Caddy parts and they told me the number was used on several applications. Usually I've had excellent luck using Borg on GM's. Stumped I tried the original FPR and the hard start is back, but the ROAR and less power and outright sucking gas milage is still there. This leaves me stumped, other than seeing if I can return the new regulator and get a GM OEM. The earlier post that a 95 uses a different one is surprising. It only works off fuel pressure and manifold vacuum. Does the 95 have a different power rating? Did they recalibrate for pollution? Lots of maybe's. The beat goes on.
I've made mention of this hard braking and am looking for more input. Ford's seem to use a much lighter pedal in contrast to GM's so maybe it's not significant. It just seems they take a little long to apply in a panic stop. I don't want to apply shot-gun troubleshooting as it could get expensive. The maybe's as I see it are the master cylinder, the anti-skid traction control module because it seems the lines are plumbed through this unit, and the booster. The front rotors are the GM originals and the pads are supposed to be OEM (by Bendix I think). There are enough miles, about 6K, since the new parts that if it were sticking calipers, some other indication such as eneven braking or pulling should have shown. Normal braking seems fine other than the feel I get suggests I would like to see a little more braking to the rear. But then I did replace the rear rotors because of deep cuts in one. Separating that issue for troubleshooting purposes, it shouldn't affect apply time for the front. It just seems there is too much time before the anti-lock starts pulsing. Again if it were hoses or calipers wouldn't I see some indications of pull during apply or release? Trouble shooting tips are welcome. Norman
It is important that it becomes a safety item to get it done quickly. They probably figured the fuel rail would never get bumped and probably why the chassis line if plastic gets involved. Plastics brittle and a hard bump could yield a fire. Makes me wonder why there isn't some brake apply standard. I know moving from GM to many Fords, your first apply nearly puts someone on the windshield. Way too many recalls despite their talk.
my car has developed another problem.... on turns (cant remember left or right, but its only 1) the left side of my car makes a squeaking noise. first happened about a week ago, and its been getting worse and worse. its kind or a creaking/squeaking noise. anyone have this problem before?
The squeak could be your cradle bushings. Try shooting some penetrating oil on them and see if it goes away, if so you may have to replace them. You might check and see if the rubber around the cradle bushings is rust colored. If so the bolts or bushing could be rusting causing it to squeak. I had mine replaced, it helped my squeak, but it eventually came back. It was the front left strut that was causing the problem. I had a mechanic friend tighten both front struts when he was changing my oil and filter. The squeak hasn't returned now for 6 months.
He tightened the top bolts as well as the ones inside by the ball joints. I watched him do it with his air gun. He had to remove the wheels to get to the bolt(s) by the ball joints, or in that location anyway.
I posted previously on an Aurora I purchased, it had a slight rattle, not knock, that sometimes disappeared when under load, I disassembled the front of the engine to find that the timing chain tensioners and guides were very worn, so I replaced them. I have learned much about this car through disassembly and research.
First of all Don't even think of removing the cam covers w/out removing the radiator. It is sooooo much easier to drain radiator and remove. It looks hard but really it isn't.
I reassembled the car only to start it and find that it still rattled. This car has 183k mi and looks like somebody drove it in a very fun way (if you know what I mean) they had attempted to patch the oil pan, (yes there is an oil pan) with cork and a piece of aluminum. some of the sheet metal screw heads from the repair had been torn off later and it was leaking steadily from where these screw heads had been.
I removed the patch to find that there was a 3-4" Gash in the pan, in some places .5" wide!!! I had purchased an oil pan gasket from GM prior to finding this out, and just knew that I could remove that pan w/the engine place. It looks like it can be done. if you have a 12mm and 10mm 1/4" wobble socket those bolts can be removed, the problem is that the pan cannot be easily removed w/the engine in the car, the pan can be removed with the transaxle separated, but it would probably be (like the Radiator) much easier to remove the engine.
IN the Factory service manual, the first step in removing the oil pan is.........get this "REMOVE ENGINE AND PLACE ON STAND"
I had pretty much determined before hand (thought I through stubborness would not admit it LOL) That it was the Girdle (lower enging half) seal that was leaking. Well my $500 dream car is rapidly becoming a night mare!!!
I decided that I would sell this supper straight black on black car, before I spent any more that the 2k I had in it. If anything, I would part it out on E-bay.
Well I knew that I wouldn't be satisfied if I didn't know what was causing the rattle on the R-side front of the engine. (that would be the passenger side of the car near the firewall) So I decided that I was gonna tear this puppy apart, and see for myself.
I needed a couple of weeks to get at it and my friend & I decided that it would be best if I moved the car out of his shop until then. I started it and DAMN if it wasn't Rattling!!!!!!!
I drove it around a little and it started again (when it want's to), so now I really can't wait to tear it apart.
I am quite sure from the hole in the pan that this car was run w/o oil for at least a few minutes. So I will probably need an engine. But I just have to know what the problem is.
Thank you to every one for hearing me out. I will keep everybody posted on what happens in the future.
What I really want to know is if the Northstar 4.6 will drop in place of the Aurora 4.0. They look Identical in size& the Northstar seems to be much more plentiful. Has anybody tried this? I have not been able to find any information online.
There's only been a lot of talk about putting a N* in an Aurora but noone's actually tried. It should work if all the electrical is the same. If you could get a N* for cheap, your $500 Aurora would be the perfect car for testing. It also sounds like you have the resources, so I'd say go ahead.
96 that after warming up and driving at hway speeds, won't idle less than 1500 in drive, in park goes as high as 3000. Normal idle around 600-750. No problems detected with scanner. Idle back to normal after cool down. 99k miles with no problems like this. Within last year replaced waterpump, belts and battery. Any ideas (cheap fixes I hope). Thanks, Mike
Try an Idle Re-Learn procedure. It may or may not work, but it's simple and cheap (free!). Check out post 797 in this forum (credit and thanks to kayaman420) for the procedure.
My '95 did some weird things once - not only idling really high and erratically , but doing it going down the road as well. It would sometimes run 35-40 MPH without my touching the accelerator.
My brother's boss still has a brand new Northstar still in the crate in his garage, from a class he taught for GM. I guess when they finished the class, they just gave it to him. Just before he got that one from GM, he and my brother rebuilt the one that is in his 94 Seville, or he'd probably throw it in his car....I just have to work up the guts (and the money) to do the job. He's always trying to goad me into doing it and is confident that we could make it work without much difficulty. It is tempting to do it when you have the engine right there, an Engineer from GM and 2 Master Mechanics that want to do it. :-) But I wouldn't do anything like that until she was paid off. One of these days....maybe.
Thanks mucho, so far so good. Did as you recommended, drove only 40 miles, but idle is just right. You got a friend in the panhandle. Got the nickname from my god-daughter...taking her riding on my H-D and Buells. Thanks again. Mike
There was a posting awhile back that was reportedly sourced from a GM NorthStar tech. The issue was that the Aurora computer would not recognize the extra displacement and therefore the car would not run right. There would be a lot of reprogramming involved to get it to work in the Aurora.
That's what I said when he and I were chatting about it last. He seemed fairly confident that Electrical/Emissions could be done without incident. If we ever decide to go through with it, you better believe I'll have a daily journal of events. :-)
I have a 98 Rora and occasionally the car will not start. The Security light flashes then it starts when the light stops (around 3 minutes). Has anyone experienced the same? It doesn't do it all the time.
I have had problems statrting the car due to the security system. One time it would not let me start it at all. What I did was to press the rest button on the alrm system. I have not had a problem since then. Before you ask, the reset button was under the steering column on my car. I dont know if it is in the same place for everybody.
Try cleaning the key first. You can spray a little electrical contact cleaner into the ignition switch and let dry as well. Otherwise you may need a new key if the resistor on the key is damaged. I'd go to an independent parts supplier (what I did to get another copy) as the price I payed at Welle parts was less than half the dealer price. I was told even if the key hed been damaged (resistor) they could have looked up the correct value.
I also have a '98 and had the same problem about a year ago. The old girl had just passed 45K miles and then the security problem started. Put the key in, turned it and voila....flashing security light and the DIC telling me to remove and clean the key and try re-starting in 3 minutes. It did restart.
This happened from time to time so I thought it might be a bad key. I started bringing my spare key which had never been used but the car would still go into self-protect mode every once in a while.
After a couple of weeks it got worse...2 times in a row, 3, then 7. Finally took her to the dealer. It took them about 7 hours of trying the car before they could duplicate the problem. A code finally set and it turned out to be a faulty security module AND an internally cracked ignition switch. Without extended warranty, would have been $750! I hope your problem is just the key.
I am 99.9 % sure that I have fixed my high speed howl problem. I have access to a website at work that lists all recalls and a large amount of other information (Auto Repair Reference Centre). The web site has a Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls section that listed a service bulletin for a thumping/fluttering type of noise coming from the lower rear window reveal molding area. They stated that some customers heard an exhaust moan/boom type of noise. The recommended fix is to purchase a rear window seal, P/N 25727951,and install it under the lower rear window reveal molding. This is the flap of rubber that runs along the front edge of the trunk. The repair kit cost $21.00 and was very easy to install. I just lifted the flap and movable part of the rear window seal and slid the sponge rubber seal in place. It has a removable tape that exposes a sticky surface that attaches to the body metal. This extra seal firms up the rubber seal between the trunk lid and the car body preventing the original rubber flap from vibrating in the wind. I took my Aurora out after work yesterday and dove 140 kph into a 40 kph head wind with no high speed howl. That works out to a wind speed of about 111 mph over the top of my Aurora. If the howl comes back I will post the return of the problem here but I think and hope that I have fixed the problem. Kim
So, do you mean that originally there was just the window seal that runs all the way around the window there? Because my car already has a rubber flap that runs from the window to under the front-most edge of the trunk.
It sounds like what you mean is that you added some foam under it to help push it up against the trunk. Is that right? Or did you actually add a flap that didn't originally exist?
Sorry for the confusion. The flap was there when I purchased the car. The GM repair kit contains a length (about 6 feet) of sponge rubber material that is added under the original flap to keep it from vibrating in the wind. It is about 3/8" of an inch square with one sticky side. I tried to paste the GM information into my post but I was unable to.
Hey all, My 95 just sprung a fuel leak -- the following picture shows where the leak is. The darker fuel line right in the middle is the one that's leaking and is wet from fuel. My question is this: Is that line the "fuel rail" that is covered by the new recall? And if so, what would be the best way to patch it enough to get to a dealer? (about 10 miles.) When the engine is on, I can see a fine spray of fuel coming out. Thanks!
If you want to see it bigger, click here (1600x1200, 1 Mb)
I don't know if that's considered the fuel rail - I don't think it is. Is the part that's leaking the plastic (rubber?) fuel line itself - one of the ones comming from the firewall - or the rigt-angle fitting?
The reason I ask is that my '95 sprung a leak in one of those fuel lines from the firewall about a year or so ago. My neighborhood mechanic replaced it with a length of high-pressure fuel hose (rubber) and that was that (cost about $20 if I remember).
I have a 95 Aurora with a problem. Had the brakes replaced and AC serviced. Picked up the car and started getting a message "Engine Hot..A/C off." and then a message "Hot Engine stop now" the traction control turns off, and engine goes to 4 cylinders. I took it back replaced thermostat and replaced hoses. Checked coolant flow and its working properly. Computer showing "hot engine" temp guage begins climbing. Engine is not hot though. I believe its a problem with the computer. ANyone have any suggestions on how to reset the system? Its driviing me insane because I know my engine is not overheating. Help is appreciated
Thanks -- it seems to be spraying about an inch above the right angle. My first thought also was to just use a standard fuel line, but since the original seems to be rubber coated plastic, I wasn't sure if a regular rubber fuel line would take the pressure.
Has anyone put this air filter on their car? I almost bought one today at Auto Zone ($45), but wanted to get some feedback first. Guy told me that it would increase horsepower by increasing air flow etc, and that it was good for the life of the car. Is this worth it. I temporarily settled for the $9 Fram.
I installed one at 30,000 miles, and just cleaned it today at 67,000 miles (2001 Aurora 3.5). It may increase power, but I'm not sure you could tell unless you are at wide open throttle (WOT). I can't confirm that benefit, but it does seem possible. I don't remember for sure, but I think others on this board have actually tested the car and have reported an increase in power. I got it because I bought in to the "better filtration" benefit. But how do you confirm something like that? If you are going to keep the car long enough, then it seems to me that the one benefit you will absolutely get is reduced cost of filter replacements.
Ya but then you have to buy a "recharger kit" for 10 or 15 bux I think? So saving money shouldn't be a reason to buy it (what 10 bux or so every 45k isnt anything anyway). Results are mixed on performance gains. Someone on caddyinfo confirmed this by getting better times with a new a/c delco filter versus a k&n. They were only a few tenths diff. measured by a g-tech pro, so accuracy is just above par. However I would recommend buying one (k&n or accel kool blue) for the better filtration.
I have installed a K and N air filter on my 2001 4L. I have not noticed any change in performance. One local auto supply store (Canadian Tire) has a demonstration unit that measures air flow. It has a rectangular shaped hole that they drop a Fram filter in and measure atmospheric pressure within the chamber. They then drop in a K and N filter and measure the new atmospheric pressure. The demonstration shows less restrictive air flow with the K and N filter. Kim
Supposedly a new paper filter will flow more air initially than the K&N but the K&N shows a clear advantage after a few thousand miles as the paper filters pores get clogged and the K&N continues to flow freely.
I went back to Canadian Tire last night and asked for a demonstration on their filter air flow measurement machine. The device was built by K&N, it has two small fans that draw air through the filter. A ball floats up in a vertical clear plastic tube measuring the amount of suction required to draw air through the filter. The new Fram filter required more suction than the K&N. Both filters were the same physical size. Kim
Comments
Even though I love that care and am already planning to get another, I'll be the first to admit that it is a pain in the butt to service. I wouldn't doubt the story about dropping the trans to get to the oil pan.
The short answer I have is that there is not an oil pan as we normally think of one. The designers actually split the block in two horizontally at the crank shaft. The early classics - like mine - are notorious for the gasket that separates the two halves to leak. Olds wants about 2K plus to fix it (at least you get an "improved" gasket kit that supposedly fixes it.
I'm told that the whole engine/trans comes out of the car to fix this. Mine has been leaking for about 20K miles now. It doesn't seem to effect anything except a dirty driveway.
Is there more than one style of pan on the 4.0? I hoping and that mine will fix in this manner. Warm weather is here and coming due for oil change so I will soon get around to jacking it up. Any info before hand will be great. Anyone have the torque values for the bolts involved?
Trouble shooting tips are welcome.
Norman
Way too many recalls despite their talk.
im changing out the ball joints next friday (if work gives me friday and saturday off like i asked...!!!!)
im changing out the ball joints next friday (if work gives me friday and saturday off like i asked...!!!!)
First of all Don't even think of removing the cam covers w/out removing the radiator. It is sooooo much easier to drain radiator and remove. It looks hard but really it isn't.
I reassembled the car only to start it and find that it still rattled. This car has 183k mi and looks like somebody drove it in a very fun way (if you know what I mean) they had attempted to patch the oil pan, (yes there is an oil pan) with cork and a piece of aluminum. some of the sheet metal screw heads from the repair had been torn off later and it was leaking steadily from where these screw heads had been.
I removed the patch to find that there was a 3-4" Gash in the pan, in some places .5" wide!!! I had purchased an oil pan gasket from GM prior to finding this out, and just knew that I could remove that pan w/the engine place. It looks like it can be done. if you have a 12mm and 10mm 1/4" wobble socket those bolts can be removed, the problem is that the pan cannot be easily removed w/the engine in the car, the pan can be removed with the transaxle separated, but it would probably be (like the Radiator) much easier to remove the engine.
IN the Factory service manual, the first step in removing the oil pan is.........get this "REMOVE ENGINE AND PLACE ON STAND"
I had pretty much determined before hand (thought I through stubborness would not admit it LOL) That it was the Girdle (lower enging half) seal that was leaking. Well my $500 dream car is rapidly becoming a night mare!!!
I decided that I would sell this supper straight black on black car, before I spent any more that the 2k I had in it. If anything, I would part it out on E-bay.
Well I knew that I wouldn't be satisfied if I didn't know what was causing the rattle on the R-side front of the engine. (that would be the passenger side of the car near the firewall) So I decided that I was gonna tear this puppy apart, and see for myself.
I needed a couple of weeks to get at it and my friend & I decided that it would be best if I moved the car out of his shop until then. I started it and DAMN if it wasn't Rattling!!!!!!!
I drove it around a little and it started again (when it want's to), so now I really can't wait to tear it apart.
I am quite sure from the hole in the pan that this car was run w/o oil for at least a few minutes. So I will probably need an engine.
But I just have to know what the problem is.
Thank you to every one for hearing me out.
I will keep everybody posted on what happens in the future.
What I really want to know is if the Northstar 4.6 will drop in place of the Aurora 4.0. They look Identical in size& the Northstar seems to be much more plentiful. Has anybody tried this? I have not been able to find any information online.
You can E-mail me at rwayo@yahoo.com
Thanks
PR
Shawn
Try an Idle Re-Learn procedure. It may or may not work, but it's simple and cheap (free!). Check out post 797 in this forum (credit and thanks to kayaman420) for the procedure.
My '95 did some weird things once - not only idling really high and erratically , but doing it going down the road as well. It would sometimes run 35-40 MPH without my touching the accelerator.
The procedure worked for me.. it may for you.
Good Luck.
-Brian
Henri
I used Caig contact cleaner on my key, but it didn't help, so I pronounced it dead and had another one made ($35)...
--Robert
This happened from time to time so I thought it might be a bad key. I started bringing my spare key which had never been used but the car would still go into self-protect mode every once in a while.
After a couple of weeks it got worse...2 times in a row, 3, then 7. Finally took her to the dealer. It took them about 7 hours of trying the car before they could duplicate the problem. A code finally set and it turned out to be a faulty security module AND an internally cracked ignition switch. Without extended warranty, would have been $750! I hope your problem is just the key.
-Marshall
I'm in Clearwater/Tampa Bay, BTW. Good luck w/ your 'RORA.
Kim
It sounds like what you mean is that you added some foam under it to help push it up against the trunk. Is that right? Or did you actually add a flap that didn't originally exist?
Kim
My 95 just sprung a fuel leak -- the following picture shows where the leak is. The darker fuel line right in the middle is the one that's leaking and is wet from fuel. My question is this: Is that line the "fuel rail" that is covered by the new recall? And if so, what would be the best way to patch it enough to get to a dealer? (about 10 miles.) When the engine is on, I can see a fine spray of fuel coming out. Thanks!
If you want to see it bigger, click here (1600x1200, 1 Mb)
I don't know if that's considered the fuel rail - I don't think it is. Is the part that's leaking the plastic (rubber?) fuel line itself - one of the ones comming from the firewall - or the rigt-angle fitting?
The reason I ask is that my '95 sprung a leak in one of those fuel lines from the firewall about a year or so ago. My neighborhood mechanic replaced it with a length of high-pressure fuel hose (rubber) and that was that (cost about $20 if I remember).
My first thought also was to just use a standard fuel line, but since the original seems to be rubber coated plastic, I wasn't sure if a regular rubber fuel line would take the pressure.
Ken
Kim
Kim