Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

aurora5000

The system can go to 245 or 250 with no problems on a high demand, heavy load situation. It is designed to work that way. With a 15 PSI pressure cap and 50/50 coolant mixture in the system, the system will not boil until 265 F...so you are a LONG ways from any sort of "over heat" situation.

 Besides, the Northstar engine has a "loss of coolant' limp home mode that will activate automatically long before you get any thing hot enough to damage a head gasket or anything. The loss of coolant limp home mode is so effective that it has been proven time and time again to run the engine for 50 miles at 50 MPH without any coolant in the system without any engine damage...so you (and your engine) are protected even in your worst nightmares of an overheat or something. It will allow you to drive to a safe place even with all the warnings and chimes going off without any risk of damage.

buckdog

Do I need any special tools to replace the water pump. And, is this a tough job to do?

Henry

I would recommend you buy the NOrthStar waterpump tool. It will make life easier for you.

Henri

larryfl

Anyone hear anything more on the Fuel Rail recall?

Pizza442?? Anyone? I've been limping along with mine epoxyed for about 2 months ('95 autobahn w/ 6/94 build date). Makes me nervous. I haven't received anything from GM yet. I hope I will soon.

buckdog

Thanks everyone for your continued support. It worked out well. The previous pump had some black permatex sealant on the back of the pump where the o-ring is at, so it was stuck on hard. I had to break it loose with a impact wrench. A breaker bar would not bust it loose. Roara is back on the road and WOT'n all the time w/188k miles on here the Autobahn still kicks butt.
ps. wetter than heck here in Ortonville Mich. glad I live on a big hill

ethink

My 1996 Aurora is registered at the GM owner site with the VIN.

There has been NO contact from GM.

My dealer has no information.

There is NO information on any other Aurora boards.

dred98

The notices are supposed to start going out on May 26th according to GM.
Howard

fats_waller

On my 2001 Aurora 3.5L

1) On occasion, the instrument cluster and indicator lights don't go through their customary 'self-check' when I start the car. Instead, the two turn signal lights flash on and off accompanied by a faint clicking. The engine does start. Switching off and on a few times usually clears the problem.
2) If I switch off while the trip odometer is on the 'B' setting, it will return to the 'B' setting if I restart within 3 minutes. Longer than that, it always returns to the 'A' setting when I restart.
3) On several occasions, the average fuel economy setting (available through the DIC), has spontaneously reset, loosing the cumulative value. Same is true of the 'fuel-used' counter.

Naturally, the dealer has no idea of what could be causing the problem. The vehicle has an extended warranty that likely covers the root cause, if only it could be diagnosed. No fault codes are evident when they check, and they can't reproduce the problem, which is not surprising given the infrequency of occurence. Still, I have the vague feeling that something major is brewing and that the car is going to betray me when I least need it to happen. Any ideas of what could be causing these problems?

Henry

As a Classic owner I can not help you with your problem. However, I share your feeling about the betrayal to come. I have the delayed start problem when you turn the key. Car has been doing it for years, yet I know one day . . . .

My only comfort when it happens will be the story I can tell on this board. Though I think it will be hard for me to top the Holland Tunnel.

tom barran

I have about 8k miles on a 2002 Aurora 4.0, and I've had an intermittent problem with the steering. I've had the rack & pinion, steering shaft and wheel mount bearings (the bearings did help one related problem) replaced. Still, I'll periodically notice a ratchety feel in the steering when turning corners, particularly right-hand turns; it's a feeling that's a little like a much muted feel when the ABS activates or like a slipping transmission (the transmission's been checked at the dealer and is said to be OK). This absolutely is driving me crazy, because it only seems to happen from time-to-time, and I can't really get it to happen on demand. It seems like it may be worse in colder weather. Has anyone else experienced this and found the solution? Is this due to an Intermediate Steering Shaft lube problem?

blk97aurora

Henry,

My starting hesitation went away completely for about 7 months. Recently it has returned very slightly and only once in awhile. I have a spare starter just in case that turns out to be the source of this elusive problem.

Les

bksss

I had a steering ratcheting problem before I replaced the rack and pinion on my 2001 4L Aurora. The intermediate steering shaft was lubricated when the rack and pinion was replaced. I no longer have an annoying ratcheting problem. The steering has a very faint ratcheting feeling on occasion but I just blame it on the design of the car and have learned to live with it. My wife does not even notice it so it is very minor. My mechanic said that the Aurora has two sharp bends in the steering column just before attaching to the rack and pinion. This may attribute to less than perfect performance of the system.
Kim (Saskatchewan Canada)

hammen2

Disclaimer: I have a Classic, not a 2001+ Aurora.

I've read tons about the Intermediate Steering Shaft issues on second-generation Auroras, and also Bonnevilles, Impalas, Intrigues, et. al. I personally felt this when helping my mother test-drive a 2002 Aurora - kind of a clunking, odd feeling when turning (and especially when going over bumps when turning). At first lots of dealers replaced the ISS, but later GM came up with a lube kit which resolves the problem for some period of time, after which the car needs the lube kit again. I've read that the kit is around $60 and it's an hour or so of labor at the dealer (if you're not comfortable/qualified to do it yourself). I'd go that route first before trying other, more expensive repairs.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

larryfl

I agree with hammen2 on both points:
 1) I also have a classic and so haven't had the problem; BUT,
 2) my wife drives a '02 Impala and HAS had the exact problem you described. The steering had a "clunking" feeling on right hand turns. This is a known problem and prevelent with later model GM cars using the same steering system. There is a lube kit available and it is a warranty item at your dealer. They install a lube fitting on the Intermediate Steering Shaft (ISS) and fill with some new kind of lube/grease. It worked for our Impala and I understand the later model Auroras, too.

larryfl

I am eagerly awaiting my recall.

Unfortunately the classic is AGAIN in the shop. This time with 2 dead cylinders (gasp). One is not getting a spark at all and is probably a plug wire - as opposed to an ignition pack since I would guess if that went out both cylinders it feeds would not get a spark.

The other dead one is getting a spark but is running WAY TOO lean (which also means WAY TOO hot and could cause serious damage). It's being traced to a leak in or around the intake manifold. Mechanic is removing it today to see what's up. Hopefully it's a gasket, not the manifold itself. Of course, the leaking/epoxy'd fuel rail is having to be removed/replaced, too.

DANG I hate this..

buckdog

In Feb. when I first heard on "News Radio" about the recall, I contacted a dealer in the local area,(N.E. Detroit). I was told that they, the dealers, weren't notified yet by GM, and until they were they couldn't do anything about it. They did know about the recall. Also, they said don't expect to get notice until Aug. or Sept. at the earliest. They also said they need to get the replacement parts into their stock first, before they could do any work.
Sorry, this is only what I know.

ethink

I just got off the phone with Oldsmobile Customer Care regarding the "Fuel Rail Recall"

According to GM:

- this is NOT YET a formally anounced recall; it is a "campaign"

- there is NO date yet for this "Recall." to be formally announced

- they do NOT (or will NOT) say which VIN's have been identified to be subject to this recall.

ethink

General Motors Corporation

Models: Oldsmobile Aurora Years: 1995-1997

Number Potentially Involved: 93,572

Dates of Manufacture: September 1993 – June 1997

Defect: Certain passenger vehicles equipped with a 4.0-liter V8 engine have a condition in which the nylon tubing used in the fuel rail construction may degrade and crack. Additionally, the MY 1995 Aurora uses a unique underhood fuel return line that may crack.

Cracking of the fuel rail or return line tubing can result in a fuel leak into the engine compartment. Fuel leakage, in the presence of an ignition source, could result in a fire.
Remedy: Dealers will install a new fuel rail assembly constructed out of stainless steel. Dealers will also install a revised chassis fuel return line. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification is expected to begin during May 2004. Owners may contact Oldsmobile at 1-800-630-6537.

[NHTSA Recall No. 04V110/GM Recall No. 04014]

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/hot/pressdisplay.cfm?year=2004&filen- ame=pr20-04.html

larryfl

1-800-630-6537 will be my first call tomorrow.

ethink

Do NOT waste your time!

Re-read messages 1970 and forward.

There is NO news on the recall from GM!

fats_waller

Further to this, it happened again today. The instrument panel 'rebooted' about 5 minutes after I started driving. I finished the trip (short, around 10 minutes). The car sat for around 45 minutes before the return trip. When I started it again, the instrument panel didn't self-check. I let it run for about 1 minute to see what would happen, whereupon, as if by magic, the panel did its self-check. The average fuel economy counter had also reset. Don't know if this happened during the reboot, or on the restart. I should also state that while the 2 turn signal indicators are flashing, they are quite dim; not at all as bright as they would be if they were indicating turns. Also, while they are flashing, the tach 'jumps' a little in sync with them. I think the other gauges do so as well.

mike98c

Does it make any difference if you tap on the instrument or dash panel? I wonder if there is a bad ground (dim turn sig. indicator)somewhere.

fats_waller

I can try tapping things the next time it happens. My guess, though, is that there is a relay that is getting 'soft' somewhere, hence the clicking sound. The behaviour is as if it is trying over and over again to start the self-check, but never quite succeeding. You could be right about the ground as well. What I really need is for it to fail completely, and then let the dealership fix it, unless they weasel out of the warranty.

tom barran

Thank you for your response. It sounds as though we've had the same problem with the steering. Indeed, it is quite minor, because other drivers, including those at the dealership, don't seem to notice. I'm very particular about things, cars definitely included. Perhaps I could inquire about another lube to the intermediate steering shaft, or maybe it's time to become a bit less particular and just live with the car's imperfection.

mrdubya

no matter whats wrong, the first thing i fix was never the problem. not sure if you remember, but ive had a popping noise thats slowly been getting worse. it pops when im comming out of a turn, not so much going into it, but somtimes. its also much worse on right turns. when my trans solenoids went out, and i brought it to oldsmobile they said i had bad ball joints. today i changed the left balljoint because thats were the problem is comming from, the drivers side. i will change the other this weekend, but thats all i had time for (its party night!)

well, the problems still there, no change at all. what do you guys think?

also, about 3 months ago when i had this problem i brought it in to amco for a oil change. well somthing they did or somthing they greased made the problem go away for about a month or so. the only things i saw down there to grease were the balljoints and tie rod ends.

to make things worse my back brakes started squeaking. i did change the fuel filter today...so now its 1 more balljoint, back brakes, front bumper, whatever else is causing the popping, front struts/springs....oh and the rear shocks are leaking. i know this is all to be expected wear and tear stuff, but it still sucks....

mike98c

have you checked the strut bearing and plate? If (when) the bearings go dry they bind and can snap and pop. I'd also check the control arm rubber bushings and look to make sure the rubbers okay.
Sometimes if you have someone turn the wheel and listen with the hood up to the top of the strut and to the bottom by the tire (with the weight of the car on the suspension) you can either hear the noise or feel the binding and release with a hand resting on the tire.

mrdubya

if its parked and i turn the wheel, it doesn't make the noise. if i go reeeeally slow around a right turn it doesn't sometimes. i do see the struts moving a little when i turn if im looking under the hood.

all the rubber bearings looked fine down there.

pizza442

My 95 has been doing this on and off for a while. Guys at the dealer said it is usually the strut-mount bushing; common on the Buicks, too. THere is a TSB (service bulliton) on it, too.

pizza442

Just got off the phone (# given above) with Olds. Gal said #04014 IS currently an active recall as of 5-01 BUT..... is now only listed for 96-97s!!!!!!!! What happened to 95s?!!! She couldn't even pull up anything on my 95s VIN, but did a search for 'fuel rail' and got #04014 for 96 & 97. Anyone have any better luck? I will have my tech pull up the part #s for #04014 on Tues. and confirm if it is 95-97 or 96-97. Also, we will be looking to see if the new recall part# is the same # as the factory stainless rail on the 98-99s.
My only guess as to why the 95s may have been left out was due to a previous mention of the fuel return line being a (unique) additional problem on the 95s.
Mrdubya: Where did you hear that the 95 had a unique return line?

mike98c

mrdubya rest your hand on the strut plate where it sits on top of the strut tower. If your on smooth pavement you shouldn't feel any roughness. I still am suspicious of the strut mount.

mrdubya

pizza442, im not sure if you meant me, i have no idea what your talking about with unique return lines

for strut bushings, and strut mounts. I do plan on replacing my shocks with kyb g-2's, replace my springs with eibach drop springs, and get the strut mount/boot. is that what you guys are suggesting is wrong anyways? it would be killing to birds with 1 stone if it was, because i was getting those soon anyways, wanted to fix this first though.

thanks

mrdubya

ohh, when im on smooth pavement, and i open the hood and turn the wheels, i do see the strut in the mount moving some, is that what you meant mike98c?

thanks again

mike98c

You'll always see a little movement but the movement should be smooth and feel smooth.

  The new strut mount should include a bearing plate (held on by the nut on top of the strut) for the top of the new struts if you're getting the mounting kit. The bolts going thru the top of the cars strut towers will screw into this new plate which rotate top on bottom of this top plate which contains about forty ball bearings internally.

The bearings run in a race which can develop a rough spot or dimple when the race runs dry. When the wheel is turned under load the plate bearings can bind and you get a build up of pressure until the resistance is overcome and the pressure is abruptly released. This release can cause a loud pop or snap noise. The noise is usually louder turning the wheel in one direction as opposed to the other direction.

mrdubya

well, thats getting replaced anyways, so im getting those with my next check in 1.5weeks. but i really dont think thats it because of this

1) the loud pops sound like there comming from more of the middle, still the side though, the softer ones seem like there comming from farther out, closer to the outside.

2) when i brought it to amoco somthing they did made it go away for about a month or more. what is there to lube besides the balljoints and ti-rod ends?

mike98c

you can try silicone or lithium spray (not WD40) on the sway bar bushings and some pople have tried squirting large amounts into the strut tower openings. The only thing else I can think of is the control arm bushings are worn and they suirted some lube into them. I assume the tie rods were checked inner and outer.

hammen2

My mother-in-law has this on her '98 Aurora, I don't have it on mine. She gets her suspension bushings lubricated and it resolves the problem for some period of time (6-12 months)...

mrdubya

i think it might be the rack and pinion, or whatever its called....

when its jacked up, i can grab the wheels and turn them (steering wheel locked) a good 3/4". when i say turn, i dont mean rotate, i mean turn like the steering wheel would.

the driver side inner tie rod is covered in fluid, the passenger side isn't the driver side seems like its were the noise comes from 95% of the time.

anyone know, does this mean a new rack and pinion? can the inner tie rods even be changed? can the inners be lubed? its either the inner tie rods, or steering knuckle that needs to be lubed, im not sure what its called.

any help is appreciated, thanks

mrdubya

strut bushing - is this what you guys mean by replacing the strut mount bushing?

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?autoMake=Oldsmo- bile&autoModel=Aurora&autoYear=1995&autoModClar=&- make=KYB&model=Strut+%26+Shock+Mount&group=Strut+%26+Shoc- k+Mount&partNum=SM5230

also, what kind of rear airshock/struts do you recomend? its a 95 getting eibach performance drop springs front and back, and kyb g-2 struts up front

thanks

95mushroom

dang that's cheap. I think rockauto wanted 74 for the mount.

dubya, you plan on buying the g2's from tirerack too?

mrdubya

yeah, there only $57 a piece. so both struts, both mounts and boots will cost me just over $200, not to bad. and rock auto wanted like $90 for 2 rear shocks (ac delco or monroe), so for $300 ill have completly new suspension. but im not sure if i should get the ac delco's, or monroes.

anyone know how i "lube the strut mount bushings"? just spray them from the engine compartment or what?

95mushroom

the fender loop would blocked them from the top and the upper spring retainer would block it from the bottom. Probably unbolt it and spray from the top once removed

mike98c

Yes.

mrdubya

well, i just ordered front kyb's, rear monroes, front mounts/boots. i should be putting them in friday, in addition to eibach springs, 18x8 w/ 235/50/18 AA traction tires, it should handle very well.

also, ive heard that if i put a negative camber on it, it will handle better, are there any downsides? hard to do?

id like a strut tower brace, but there $300 from rsm, which is extremely overpriced. anyone know if any oem ones fit? like if a sts has one? or the SSEI's?

thanks

rjs200240

Negative camber relative to the body means that the tires will point in at the top when viewed from the front. This is sort of the boy-racer look on cars. A little bit of negative camber will help handling, however, the oem alignment may include some negative camber already. The camber will also get more negative to the body as the car rolls and the suspension is compressed in a turn. A lot of negative camber will probably hurt the handling as the tire will make poor overall contact with the pavement, and it will result in terrible tire wear with the inside wearing much faster than the outside, a condition that rotation will not help, only unmounting/remounting would.

If you are firming the ride (sounds like it), then the car may not roll as much in turns. It's possible the camber increases more than the body rolls to cause negative camber only at larger roll angles (or maybe it doesn't). In that case, since you are reducing roll, some more camber might help. I'd try to quantify it if I were you before just making changes for the sake of change. One thing you could do is mark the sidewall and see how much the sidewall rolls in hard cornering. If it is excessive, then maybe some negative camber would help keep the tire making ideal contact?

How much camber are you thinking of doing?

mrdubya

ive been told -1.5 is a good amount to do on a sports sedan. i think once i install these parts it will qualify as a sports sedan in handling.

dont know if you read my other post, but a 98sts strut tower brace can be had for only 25 AFTER shipping strait from GM (gmpartsdirect) i plan on ordering that, since its less than 1/10 the price of the rsm one. i think it will fit, since the seville's and aurora's share the same plateform, if not, im only out $25, but its a big deal if it does fit, cause everyone can go through gm instead of rsmracing for it.

mike98c

I'm running about .5 degrees more negative camber. The Sensatracs i'm using had to have the adjustment slot at the bottom ground out slightly longer but that wasn't a big deal. I actually got slightly better wear from the tires although I probably attack apexs and ramps more aggressively than most people.

Postscript. I don't attack quite as often anymore since I don't have my wholesale deal with Bloomington tire (folded his business and retired for personal reasons) when I had the tire sponsership for autocross few years back. lol.

blk97aurora

Mike,

That's an incredible price. I never would have expected a strut tower brace from GM. Do you have a part number? Do they list one for the rear?

Les

mrdubya

25653157

gm has it because it came stock on STS's. STS's never had a rear brace, so gm wont have one. im not sure if will fit though, but i think there's a good chance, worth trying, but im broke till next friday, so thats when ill order it.

sephroth

1997 Olds Aurora with 88000 miles
OBDII Codes pulled:
P0138- Input voltage from O2 sensor in Bank 1 is too high for current operating conditions

P0307- Misfire in Cylinder #7

P1139- not exactly sure does anyone know?

Last year I had replaced the fuel pressure regulator and 3 months ago I changed the spark plugs with A/C Delco. Two weeks ago I had the same problem and changed my spark plug wires with A/C Delco and just this weekend the problems reoccured. Could this be the COIL or would the O2 sensors have anything to do with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

larryfl

Well, I just called the GM Customer Service number that was posted here a few weeks ago and got the same message the rest of us have.

"At this time, Mr. Chapman, your car is not covered under the active recall".

"Why not? The NHTSA web site shows all '95 thru '97 Auroras manufactured from ____Blah__ to __blah____ to covered, and mine is a '95 manufactured during that time."

"Well, this doesn't mean your car WONT be covered under a recall, it's just that it's not NOW covered under the CURRENT recall".

HUH?

As posted earlier, the '95s aren't included in the recall. But they might be. Or not. Or later. Or Who Knows?

I love it when you're kept fully informed.