Wouldn't you know it...I was at the gas station yesterday and noticed a strange sound from the engine compartment. It's a pulley for sure, and it doesn't sound so hot. You guys will remember that I just changed the tensioner and idler pulleys not too long ago. I'm really hoping it's not one of those, but if it isn't, that really only leaves alternator, steering, A/C (which I replaced last year) or the crank (not very likely :P ).
I don't know which I'd like to do less....tear the engine apart agin to replace one of those two, or buy a new alternator/AC clutch, etc. I'll have to do some real diagnosis later this weekend.
Until I can get to the yard I've got hoses to shocks with a tee and presta valve from an old bicycle tube rigged up. Does make it easier to experiment with ride height and decide if I'll stick with the current adjustment of the rod on the ride level switch.
My friend owns a 98 classic, and for some time now the rear end of the car is noticably higher than the front end: the gap between the tire and the wheel well is aprox. 3 to 4 inches larger than in the front. I believe this to be a problem with the auto leveling system. Any thoughts/solutions? Thanx!
Welcome to the board. The load-leveling rear has a sensor that determines the ride height and signals the compressor to adjust. You can adjust this sensor to the appropriate ride height. You would need to consult the service manual for the appropriate height, and where to measure from. On my car, the sensor is on the driver's side rear suspension. It could also be on the passenger side, though.
Thank you for your prompt reply Rob - a beautiful car you have! I checked the sensor already, and it does not seem to be the problem The car is stuck in the "up" position regardless of load, and sensor adjustment seems ineffective. I have not heard the air compressor run once ever since this problem occured. This leads me to believe that perhaps the air shocks are "stuck" somehow in this position. I have not tried disconnecting the battery yet, but will do so when I drop by my buddies place later on tonight. In the meantime, is there anything else that could be causing this?
Maybe there's some valve stuck or something? I wonder if you could disconnect the shocks to let all the air out, let the car settle all the way down. Then hook it back up and see if they raise to the right height. Perhaps something is preventing it from releasing the air to lower it? Just a thought. At least you would be able to tell if the raising part of the pump works...
I have seen a LS400 with the rear susp. similar to what you are talking about. So its a problem with all older (relatively) cars with air-leveling rear suspensions.
I had that same problem with my 95. I noticed it when I was on a trip out of state. The system had locked-up in the up position. The dealer (that is why I am the shop king) repaired the problem.
I dont remember the exact fix because it was 2 0r 3 years ago. However, it may be the release solenoid for the system. Hope this helps.
Playing around with the new/old salvage yard compressor/air dryer not yet installed on the car, I see that if I disconnect one of the rubber hoses that t off for the feedback loop the compressor which is maintaining about 13-15pounds of pressure in the little tank goes up to about twenty then shuts off. I don't know if that behavior has anything to do with your problem but if all the other suggestions fail and you have to take off the rear passenger fender splash shield to look at the compressor itself, try and take a good look at those (Rubber not the thin nylon)lines.
Finished time serting rear bank of 97 Aurora of one of the company VP's. I tried to convince her to let me do the front bank but she wasn't interested.
It should be interesting when she gets it back to see if she notices the interior because she is heavyset and the leather finish was worn on the drivers seat with some cracks. I had some of the plastic jars of paint left over so I matched the color and mixed up the poly with the paint (after repairing the cracks in the seat) and redid the leather facing with the solution. I've got to sand it with some 600 grit paper and do another couple coats. I also repaired the shift cover where she must rest her hand with the rings on her fingers.
The ratchet I found from what must have been previous work. When I loosened the cradle bolts in front to tip the engine the ratchet fell out from somewhere it was lodged.
Now that the weather is halfway decent I've done more mechanical work the last week and a half than the previous month and a half!
1997 Olds Aurora with 86,500 miles Currently I am experiencing hesitation and sluggish performance from the engine plus a drop in fuel economy to below 18 miles a gallon. When at a stop the engine begins to knock and tries to lurch forward although while holding the brake the car does not move. This seems to be worse when I am in Drive and holding the brake down. Lately I have been putting the car in neutral while stopped and the car seems to idle more smoothly with less of an rpm drop than before (idle at 700 would dip to 500 when the knock occurs). I have always used 93 octane and bought Hess premium instead of cheaper 93 octane gas at sams club to see if it was the gas although no change to date. Although at low rpms the car seems to be knocking worst then when driving at normal and higher rpm of say 1500 and higher. When you step on the pedal the car accelerates however intermediate power kicks in and then dies sort of back and forth. Last summer I replaced the fuel pressure regulator as recommended by this board and it solved the stalling problem perfectly. 2 months back I have had this misfire problem (at least I think it is a misfire but I am not sure...any suggestions?) and replaced the spark plugs with AC Delco Platinum which cured the problem. My father and I tested the wires with an meter and they showed ok 2 months ago. Do I need to change the spark plug wires for this problem? Also does the fuel filter need replacing (if so do I need the pcv valve also and how do I go about changing the filter, do I need to release the fuel pressure, location, etc?) Thanks so much for all the advise.
Go to Autozone and get a free scan. If it comes up EGR you can clean the valve. If another code you'll better know how to proceed without throwing parts at the problem.
My 2001 4L Aurora is at a local GM dealership receiving a new transmission all covered under warranty. Their shop foreman told me that they found a number of trouble codes associated with the transmission and they found metal filings in the oil. It took almost one week before GM would authorize a new transmission installation. I should have my car back by the middle of next week. The dealership has given me a Cavalier loaner car to drive until my Aurora is fixed. Kim
You'll need a replacement EGR gasket. The EGR is held on by three studs/nuts. After unplugging and removing, use a non-clorinated solvent like brake cleaner to clean the valve stem seat and openings until the stem moves freely. I used a small gun cleaning brush since I knew the bristles wouldn't melt when they were contacted by the solvent. DON'T let the solvent run into the can on the top part of the valve. The solvent could ruin the windings for the motor. The EGR valve doesn't usually wear out, the valve gets carbon deposits on the shaft and freezes or moves sluggishly. A good cleaning usally restores the operation of the valve.
If a car has been backfiring because of a bad FPR or plug wires that will speed up the carbon problem.
i had the same lurching problem. first it was a spark plug wire that came off the coil after a car wash, that somehow must have caused a coil to go bad, because a day latter i had a burned coil tip, so it ran bad again. so i fixed that....then my spark plug was ALL fouled up, so i replaced those.....then my new spark plug wires had a problem snapping in to one of the spark plugs, so i trimmed that up.....been running fine for 2 months now, it was like the domino effect!!!
at least with a 97 you can bring it in, they'll tell you exactly what cylinder is misfiring if thats the problem, or what exactly is causing the lurching, autozone, even checkers (the one by my house at least) does it for free. i have a 95, obdI, so of course there scanners didn't work on my car, but OBDII tells EVERYTHING.
I sure hope someone can help. This forum seems like a wonderful thing! Anyhow, here's my prob: My 2001 Aurora develops a whining sound, similar to a police siren, actually, between 2000 and 4000 rpms at cruising speeds, like on an interstate, only after it warms up, or we've been driving it for about an hour. The sound goes up and down, according to the rpms, and it's driving us nuts! We took it for a spin with a service tech, but he didn't hear it, and we suspect it was because he hadn't driven it for about half an hour, which is when it starts. Could it be the turbocharger? Any advice from anyone would be appreciated! --BarkleyC
So does it wine at all after it's warmed up if you park the car an rev it into the range the noise occurs? Does it occur at the same RPM if you drop the car to second? You'll be able that way to see if it's driveline related. If it occurs at park then you can open the hood and using a mechanics stethoscope (or a hollow piece of hose held to an ear) isolate if the noise is from a pulley, alternator etc.
It could be an alternator. We had the same problem with our '97. It took several trips to the Olds dealer before the were able to find the problem. They put on a new alternator and now, we have no more whining noise. At the time we only had about 55k on it. Hope this helps.
Went to AutoZone last night and they pulled three codes. P0307- Misfire has occurred in cylinder # 7
P0138- Input voltage from oxygen sensor 2 in bank 1 is too high for current operating conditions
P1139- Water in Fuel Indicator Circuit Malfunction
For the Water in Fuel I suspect it was the gas I got at Sam's Club one week earlier prior to my last fill up at Hess. AutoZone sold me some gas dryer additive to remove the water. Any suggestions to my above post with these codes? I am planning to pull the # 7 spark plug (although they were all changed 3 months back with AC-Delco Platinum) to check the plug before I decide to get wires if needed. Thanks!
Hello! Well, I love the Aurora's. Absolutely wanted to have one. I just bought this beautiful 95 with 150K for only $1200. For that price you know it came with some problems. Previous owner sold it because it wont shift beyond 2nd gear and was told by his mechanic to replace the tranny. NOW, this very same mechanic just replaced this tranny for him 25K ago. After lurking around in this message board,Ive decided to try and change the solenoids and see if that works.
Also, the Traction Control Off light stays on when you drive it. So, Im not sure what that could mean. I read that if the TC light is on and the ABS light is also on, that I need to change the bearings and sensor. But the ABS light is NOT on. Any suggestions?
NOW, he said that the Catylatic Convertor is broken. He said he drove over a curb or something. The car smells strong of gas and has white smoke from the exhaust. I read that this could be the FPR....is this correct? I dont see any damage to the bottom of the car where he would have ran over a curb that hard. Should I replace the Cat and the FPR?
AND....the AC isnt blowing cold air. He said that last summer it was fine, but he has had it in storage since last September when the Tranny went to 2nd gear. Should I try to charge it first, or do you think I will need to replace the compressor?
The car is in beautiful cosmetic condition and all the other bells and whistles work perfectly. The leather looks like new, and I am the 3rd owner. I love this car and want to get it on the road ASAP. Could use ANY suggestions and replys you might have. Thanks.
Regarding the whining sound between 2-4k rpms: yes, the sound is there regardless of the speed of the vehicle. It goes up and down in pitch, according to the rpm needle. However, once it gets going making the sound, sometimes the sound is less noticeable when accelerating from a stop. That is, this sound seems to appear only at cruising speeds of about 45mph and up. It gets louder the longe the car is driven, but it maxes out in noise loudness after a while. It never gets so loud that it can't be drowned out with the radio turned up moderately. But, jeez, for 32K+, should I put up with this? Feel kinda stupid wondering if it were the turbocharger, and then finding out there is not one! We had a new alternater put in; that's what the mechanics thought. Also, they revved it up while it stood still and they put the steth to it. However, I feel they might not have heard it because it wasn't warmed up. Thanks for your concern and suggestions.
the first thing (easiest) I'd check is that the tires are the same size front and rear as this can cause the traction control to shut off, then check the bearings.
Some of the other members (like Henry the shop king) who have been rolling test beds for G.M. or who have had the problem might check in with more suggestions.
Ok this was the first time this happened to my 95 Aurora with 113K, a couple of days ago it stalled as I was making a left hand turn going about 20 MPH, but I re-started it back up right away and it drove fine after that. There was no signs or symptoms before that happened, it was almost as if I turned off the engine while driving, no hesitation or anything. Any ideas anyone..?
Ramou, maybe your fuel pump hiccup'd (hey, at least you weren't in the Holland Tunnel :-). Could also be a problem with fuel filter (changed it in the last 2-3 years or 30k mi?), fuel pressure regulator (ever had this changed?), fuel lines (had them changed on your '95 - do you ever smell gas while idling or driving)?
The fact that you're not seeing hesitation/idle fluctuation makes me think this is more of a fuel delivery problem...
See if the sound is coming from the speakers, not from the engine bay. If so, it's something electrical. That's what it sounds like your issue is. Just changing the alt may not fix it. Maybe there's a bad ground somewhere or something. Just to be sure, did this start after you had the alternator replaced, or before?
Maybe I should have phrased the heading differently lol. Good point about the noise. I had that happen several years ago. It took me alomost a week before I realized that it was the left front speaker that was whining and not something under the hood or under the car.
It was a 1996 Cavalier beater. The 2001 Aurora whine problem may have something to do with the transmission. I had a whine or hum problem when I let up on the gas with my old transmission. I have been driving my Aurora for several days now and just returned from a 200 mile trip. The engine runs about 150 to 200 rpm slower at highway speeds. The gas mileage is a tad better and I do not hear an annoying humming sound when I let up on the gas. It shifts better than before. I had an “almost stall situation” when I stopped at a light before the new rebuilt transmission installation. I did not notice any stalling today when in the city. The total cost of the rebuilt transmission was $4,131.03 dollars Canadian (around 3,000.00 American dollars). Every dime was covered by the power train warranty. The GM dealership said that they had to take a lot of parts off the car to replace the transmission. It sounded like they took one or both of the front wheels off because they did a wheel alignment. Kim
I noticed your posts about shift solenoids and how one should change both while you're there. Did you do this yourself? Are they mounted externally or are they internal? I'm getting error codes that my shift solenoid is open or shorted and that the cruise control is on while not in drive.Even got one that says torque convertor not disengaging. Anyone else able to offer help? But the funny thing is the cruise still works fine and the car is driving normal....
next thing to fix - radiator. anyone know how hard they are to change? im ordering one, i just dont know if its something me and my old man can change.......
Easy. Just remove the metal cowl/bridge over the radiator, disconnect the hoses and unscrew the metal line into the radiator, disconnect/unbolt from the air conditioning radiator, unplug the fans and lift it off where it rests on the botton frame.
Anyone got the latest on this? I had just replaced the fuel return line 2 months ago myself and then the rail sprung 2 weeks ago. The dealer (service writer) played dumb (Pontiac-GMC-Buick) and didn't bother to call tech support or Zone-rep as I suggested, so I called 800-OLDS-442 and actually got the 'pending' recall # along with a good description. Letters are to be going out to owners mid-May (now). Good thing I am friends with a tech at the Pont-BUICK dealer; he started at Olds and was trained on the Auroras. He called tech support and also found that they had to wait for the parts #s for the recall replacement parts. I had figured that they would just use the existing parts for 98-99 which I thought had the newer stainless rail? We are waiting to be safe as there may be slight production diff's between 95-97 and 98-99. He said about 2 weeks wait which is about now; car is sitting at dealer. Will call my buddy on Mon. (ignoring the writer!). Anyone have any updates in the meanwhile? Jay
Changed the spark plug wires with AC Delco for $109. Engine is no longer hesitating and the check engine light is now off. Must say taking the coil off was the MOST difficult part, currently it is only being held on by three of the four screws since it is quite difficult to reach in the back.
I have had this Aurora for about 4 years with no problems until a couples of weeks ago. One head gasket blew and I had it repaired and replaced by a GM dealer ($1480). I asked the mechanic if I should keep the car or sell it . He said sell it before it reaches 100,000 miles (it has 95,000 now). He said that the engine will never see 150,000 miles. Has anyone had similiar experiences? Thanks in advance.
im at 139k, i see a bunch of high mileage aurora's and northstar cadillacs (same drivetrain) he doesn't know what he's talking about, probably one of those old timers that thinks dohc is junk, and has wet dreams about 350's.
We finally had a nice sunny weekend last weekend (after a solid week of rain), so I began my "spring detail" of my Aurora and my wife's GTP.
I recently had my car professionally buffed to remove paint overspray (paid for by the snowplow manufacturer right next to my work), so I opened the hood and began cleaning the edges of polish, when I noted that the front corners of my hood (directly above the headlights) are all bubbling up like there's rust below the paint.
I now have a project for Memorial Day weekend - sanding this down and putting some rust-inhibiting paint on. Glad I saw this before it started eating through the top of the hood. My car is a '98, which seems a bit early for this to happen (though it is more than 6 1/2 years old, having been manufactured in August of 1997) - anyone else in the snow belt with a '95 or '96 seen anything like this? Maybe my hood wasn't properly sealed or prepped. Must gripe to my mother-in-law (former GM Lake Orion plant worker) about this :-)
This brings up a question I've been meaning to ask. I touched up a couple spots on the hood and there was no rust. The metal didn't look like steel and sure enough when I put a magnet on the hood (paper towel in between)unlike the sides of the car the magnet wasn't attracted to the hood. The hood seems to be aluminum! I do know I got clipped on the jaw once because my hand slipped off the newly waxed hood and the hood gave me an uppercut as it wizzed up. One of the struts is dead now and I don't plan on replacing it.
Yes, the hood is definitely aluminum. Quote from my brochure "2 sided galvanized steel body panels except roof and lightweight aluminum engine hood." Mine's a 98.
Anyone have any tips on replacing the pump and thermostat on the '95 with a 4.0. I noticed it is starting to leak. I can't see where it's comming from but when I feel up under the pump housing where I can't see my hand comes out all wet with anti-freeze. Also any special t-stat I should use to bring my temp down. It seems to run at 200 and in traffic climbs to 210-220? Besides this problem everything else has been great!
Your running temps are normal for this engine. Do not change the thermostat unless it's not working (more often than not, the replacements are bad too - at least in my experience :-)
Comments
I don't know which I'd like to do less....tear the engine apart agin to replace one of those two, or buy a new alternator/AC clutch, etc. I'll have to do some real diagnosis later this weekend.
-Brian
I dont remember the exact fix because it was 2 0r 3 years ago. However, it may be the release solenoid for the system. Hope this helps.
Henri
It should be interesting when she gets it back to see if she notices the interior because she is heavyset and the leather finish was worn on the drivers seat with some cracks. I had some of the plastic jars of paint left over so I matched the color and mixed up the poly with the paint (after repairing the cracks in the seat) and redid the leather facing with the solution. I've got to sand it with some 600 grit paper and do another couple coats. I also repaired the shift cover where she must rest her hand with the rings on her fingers.
The ratchet I found from what must have been previous work. When I loosened the cradle bolts in front to tip the engine the ratchet fell out from somewhere it was lodged.
Now that the weather is halfway decent I've done more mechanical work the last week and a half than the previous month and a half!
Currently I am experiencing hesitation and sluggish performance from the engine plus a drop in fuel economy to below 18 miles a gallon. When at a stop the engine begins to knock and tries to lurch forward although while holding the brake the car does not move. This seems to be worse when I am in Drive and holding the brake down. Lately I have been putting the car in neutral while stopped and the car seems to idle more smoothly with less of an rpm drop than before (idle at 700 would dip to 500 when the knock occurs). I have always used 93 octane and bought Hess premium instead of cheaper 93 octane gas at sams club to see if it was the gas although no change to date. Although at low rpms the car seems to be knocking worst then when driving at normal and higher rpm of say 1500 and higher. When you step on the pedal the car accelerates however intermediate power kicks in and then dies sort of back and forth. Last summer I replaced the fuel pressure regulator as recommended by this board and it solved the stalling problem perfectly. 2 months back I have had this misfire problem (at least I think it is a misfire but I am not sure...any suggestions?) and replaced the spark plugs with AC Delco Platinum which cured the problem. My father and I tested the wires with an meter and they showed ok 2 months ago. Do I need to change the spark plug wires for this problem? Also does the fuel filter need replacing (if so do I need the pcv valve also and how do I go about changing the filter, do I need to release the fuel pressure, location, etc?) Thanks so much for all the advise.
Kim
Ouch. That'll really make you appreciate the Aurora when you get it back ;-)
Howard
If a car has been backfiring because of a bad FPR or plug wires that will speed up the carbon problem.
at least with a 97 you can bring it in, they'll tell you exactly what cylinder is misfiring if thats the problem, or what exactly is causing the lurching, autozone, even checkers (the one by my house at least) does it for free. i have a 95, obdI, so of course there scanners didn't work on my car, but OBDII tells EVERYTHING.
My 2001 Aurora develops a whining sound, similar to a police siren, actually, between 2000 and 4000 rpms at cruising speeds, like on an interstate, only after it warms up, or we've been driving it for about an hour. The sound goes up and down, according to the rpms, and it's driving us nuts! We took it for a spin with a service tech, but he didn't hear it, and we suspect it was because he hadn't driven it for about half an hour, which is when it starts. Could it be the turbocharger?
Any advice from anyone would be appreciated!
--BarkleyC
So it changes with the RPM's and not the speed of the vehicle, right?
P0307- Misfire has occurred in cylinder # 7
P0138- Input voltage from oxygen sensor 2 in bank 1 is too high for current operating conditions
P1139- Water in Fuel Indicator Circuit Malfunction
For the Water in Fuel I suspect it was the gas I got at Sam's Club one week earlier prior to my last fill up at Hess. AutoZone sold me some gas dryer additive to remove the water. Any suggestions to my above post with these codes?
I am planning to pull the # 7 spark plug (although they were all changed 3 months back with AC-Delco Platinum) to check the plug before I decide to get wires if needed. Thanks!
Well, I love the Aurora's. Absolutely wanted to have one. I just bought this beautiful 95 with 150K for only $1200. For that price you know it came with some problems. Previous owner sold it because it wont shift beyond 2nd gear and was told by his mechanic to replace the tranny. NOW, this very same mechanic just replaced this tranny for him 25K ago. After lurking around in this message board,Ive decided to try and change the solenoids and see if that works.
Also, the Traction Control Off light stays on when you drive it. So, Im not sure what that could mean. I read that if the TC light is on and the ABS light is also on, that I need to change the bearings and sensor. But the ABS light is NOT on. Any suggestions?
NOW, he said that the Catylatic Convertor is broken. He said he drove over a curb or something. The car smells strong of gas and has white smoke from the exhaust. I read that this could be the FPR....is this correct? I dont see any damage to the bottom of the car where he would have ran over a curb that hard. Should I replace the Cat and the FPR?
AND....the AC isnt blowing cold air. He said that last summer it was fine, but he has had it in storage since last September when the Tranny went to 2nd gear. Should I try to charge it first, or do you think I will need to replace the compressor?
The car is in beautiful cosmetic condition and all the other bells and whistles work perfectly. The leather looks like new, and I am the 3rd owner. I love this car and want to get it on the road ASAP. Could use ANY suggestions and replys you might have. Thanks.
Feel kinda stupid wondering if it were the turbocharger, and then finding out there is not one!
We had a new alternater put in; that's what the mechanics thought. Also, they revved it up while it stood still and they put the steth to it. However, I feel they might not have heard it because it wasn't warmed up.
Thanks for your concern and suggestions.
Some of the other members (like Henry the shop king) who have been rolling test beds for G.M. or who have had the problem might check in with more suggestions.
The fact that you're not seeing hesitation/idle fluctuation makes me think this is more of a fuel delivery problem...
--Robert
I have been driving my Aurora for several days now and just returned from a 200 mile trip. The engine runs about 150 to 200 rpm slower at highway speeds. The gas mileage is a tad better and I do not hear an annoying humming sound when I let up on the gas. It shifts better than before. I had an “almost stall situation” when I stopped at a light before the new rebuilt transmission installation. I did not notice any stalling today when in the city. The total cost of the rebuilt transmission was $4,131.03 dollars Canadian (around 3,000.00 American dollars). Every dime was covered by the power train warranty. The GM dealership said that they had to take a lot of parts off the car to replace the transmission. It sounded like they took one or both of the front wheels off because they did a wheel alignment.
Kim
im soooooo over this car
Jay
I recently had my car professionally buffed to remove paint overspray (paid for by the snowplow manufacturer right next to my work), so I opened the hood and began cleaning the edges of polish, when I noted that the front corners of my hood (directly above the headlights) are all bubbling up like there's rust below the paint.
I now have a project for Memorial Day weekend - sanding this down and putting some rust-inhibiting paint on. Glad I saw this before it started eating through the top of the hood. My car is a '98, which seems a bit early for this to happen (though it is more than 6 1/2 years old, having been manufactured in August of 1997) - anyone else in the snow belt with a '95 or '96 seen anything like this? Maybe my hood wasn't properly sealed or prepped. Must gripe to my mother-in-law (former GM Lake Orion plant worker) about this :-)
--Robert
Question: Has anyone else noticed this?
Quote from my brochure "2 sided galvanized steel body panels except roof and lightweight aluminum engine hood."
Mine's a 98.
Howard
which is funny becuase my hood struts also cant hold up the hood anymore!
Besides this problem everything else has been great!