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Comments
I don't know which I'd like to do less....tear the engine apart agin to replace one of those two, or buy a new alternator/AC clutch, etc. I'll have to do some real diagnosis later this weekend.
-Brian
I dont remember the exact fix because it was 2 0r 3 years ago. However, it may be the release solenoid for the system. Hope this helps.
Henri
It should be interesting when she gets it back to see if she notices the interior because she is heavyset and the leather finish was worn on the drivers seat with some cracks. I had some of the plastic jars of paint left over so I matched the color and mixed up the poly with the paint (after repairing the cracks in the seat) and redid the leather facing with the solution. I've got to sand it with some 600 grit paper and do another couple coats. I also repaired the shift cover where she must rest her hand with the rings on her fingers.
The ratchet I found from what must have been previous work. When I loosened the cradle bolts in front to tip the engine the ratchet fell out from somewhere it was lodged.
Now that the weather is halfway decent I've done more mechanical work the last week and a half than the previous month and a half!
Currently I am experiencing hesitation and sluggish performance from the engine plus a drop in fuel economy to below 18 miles a gallon. When at a stop the engine begins to knock and tries to lurch forward although while holding the brake the car does not move. This seems to be worse when I am in Drive and holding the brake down. Lately I have been putting the car in neutral while stopped and the car seems to idle more smoothly with less of an rpm drop than before (idle at 700 would dip to 500 when the knock occurs). I have always used 93 octane and bought Hess premium instead of cheaper 93 octane gas at sams club to see if it was the gas although no change to date. Although at low rpms the car seems to be knocking worst then when driving at normal and higher rpm of say 1500 and higher. When you step on the pedal the car accelerates however intermediate power kicks in and then dies sort of back and forth. Last summer I replaced the fuel pressure regulator as recommended by this board and it solved the stalling problem perfectly. 2 months back I have had this misfire problem (at least I think it is a misfire but I am not sure...any suggestions?) and replaced the spark plugs with AC Delco Platinum which cured the problem. My father and I tested the wires with an meter and they showed ok 2 months ago. Do I need to change the spark plug wires for this problem? Also does the fuel filter need replacing (if so do I need the pcv valve also and how do I go about changing the filter, do I need to release the fuel pressure, location, etc?) Thanks so much for all the advise.
Kim
Ouch. That'll really make you appreciate the Aurora when you get it back ;-)
Howard
If a car has been backfiring because of a bad FPR or plug wires that will speed up the carbon problem.
at least with a 97 you can bring it in, they'll tell you exactly what cylinder is misfiring if thats the problem, or what exactly is causing the lurching, autozone, even checkers (the one by my house at least) does it for free. i have a 95, obdI, so of course there scanners didn't work on my car, but OBDII tells EVERYTHING.
My 2001 Aurora develops a whining sound, similar to a police siren, actually, between 2000 and 4000 rpms at cruising speeds, like on an interstate, only after it warms up, or we've been driving it for about an hour. The sound goes up and down, according to the rpms, and it's driving us nuts! We took it for a spin with a service tech, but he didn't hear it, and we suspect it was because he hadn't driven it for about half an hour, which is when it starts. Could it be the turbocharger?
Any advice from anyone would be appreciated!
--BarkleyC
So it changes with the RPM's and not the speed of the vehicle, right?
P0307- Misfire has occurred in cylinder # 7
P0138- Input voltage from oxygen sensor 2 in bank 1 is too high for current operating conditions
P1139- Water in Fuel Indicator Circuit Malfunction
For the Water in Fuel I suspect it was the gas I got at Sam's Club one week earlier prior to my last fill up at Hess. AutoZone sold me some gas dryer additive to remove the water. Any suggestions to my above post with these codes?
I am planning to pull the # 7 spark plug (although they were all changed 3 months back with AC-Delco Platinum) to check the plug before I decide to get wires if needed. Thanks!
Well, I love the Aurora's. Absolutely wanted to have one. I just bought this beautiful 95 with 150K for only $1200. For that price you know it came with some problems. Previous owner sold it because it wont shift beyond 2nd gear and was told by his mechanic to replace the tranny. NOW, this very same mechanic just replaced this tranny for him 25K ago. After lurking around in this message board,Ive decided to try and change the solenoids and see if that works.
Also, the Traction Control Off light stays on when you drive it. So, Im not sure what that could mean. I read that if the TC light is on and the ABS light is also on, that I need to change the bearings and sensor. But the ABS light is NOT on. Any suggestions?
NOW, he said that the Catylatic Convertor is broken. He said he drove over a curb or something. The car smells strong of gas and has white smoke from the exhaust. I read that this could be the FPR....is this correct? I dont see any damage to the bottom of the car where he would have ran over a curb that hard. Should I replace the Cat and the FPR?
AND....the AC isnt blowing cold air. He said that last summer it was fine, but he has had it in storage since last September when the Tranny went to 2nd gear. Should I try to charge it first, or do you think I will need to replace the compressor?
The car is in beautiful cosmetic condition and all the other bells and whistles work perfectly. The leather looks like new, and I am the 3rd owner. I love this car and want to get it on the road ASAP. Could use ANY suggestions and replys you might have. Thanks.
Feel kinda stupid wondering if it were the turbocharger, and then finding out there is not one!
We had a new alternater put in; that's what the mechanics thought. Also, they revved it up while it stood still and they put the steth to it. However, I feel they might not have heard it because it wasn't warmed up.
Thanks for your concern and suggestions.
Some of the other members (like Henry the shop king) who have been rolling test beds for G.M. or who have had the problem might check in with more suggestions.
The fact that you're not seeing hesitation/idle fluctuation makes me think this is more of a fuel delivery problem...
--Robert
I have been driving my Aurora for several days now and just returned from a 200 mile trip. The engine runs about 150 to 200 rpm slower at highway speeds. The gas mileage is a tad better and I do not hear an annoying humming sound when I let up on the gas. It shifts better than before. I had an “almost stall situation” when I stopped at a light before the new rebuilt transmission installation. I did not notice any stalling today when in the city. The total cost of the rebuilt transmission was $4,131.03 dollars Canadian (around 3,000.00 American dollars). Every dime was covered by the power train warranty. The GM dealership said that they had to take a lot of parts off the car to replace the transmission. It sounded like they took one or both of the front wheels off because they did a wheel alignment.
Kim
im soooooo over this car
Jay
I recently had my car professionally buffed to remove paint overspray (paid for by the snowplow manufacturer right next to my work), so I opened the hood and began cleaning the edges of polish, when I noted that the front corners of my hood (directly above the headlights) are all bubbling up like there's rust below the paint.
I now have a project for Memorial Day weekend - sanding this down and putting some rust-inhibiting paint on. Glad I saw this before it started eating through the top of the hood. My car is a '98, which seems a bit early for this to happen (though it is more than 6 1/2 years old, having been manufactured in August of 1997) - anyone else in the snow belt with a '95 or '96 seen anything like this? Maybe my hood wasn't properly sealed or prepped. Must gripe to my mother-in-law (former GM Lake Orion plant worker) about this :-)
--Robert
Question: Has anyone else noticed this?
Quote from my brochure "2 sided galvanized steel body panels except roof and lightweight aluminum engine hood."
Mine's a 98.
Howard
which is funny becuase my hood struts also cant hold up the hood anymore!
Besides this problem everything else has been great!