Anyways, my front passenger side footwell gets soaked after a hard rain. I believe I traced it to one of the rubber molding along the roof. I forget if it was the upper one or the "plasticy" one by the door. I pulled back the carpet, ran a hose over the rubber, gradually going back till water starting coming in the footwell. It will probably be in more then one spot. Just seal it up with some black rubber sealant.
I knew it was to good to be true. No mechanical problems for over six months with either Aurora. Several weeks ago I started seeing a couple of drips of coolant on the garage floor where the '97 is parked. It continued for over a week, I called the Olds mechanic where I take the cars and had them look at it. Water pump was leaking, they replaced it and it is working great. This was covered under my extended warranty.
Then my '95 must have gotten sympathy pains because two days latter it went in LIMP MODE. The transmission starts in 2nd gear and never shifts out of 2nd. I took it over to the Olds mechanic and he said the solenoids were bad. He replaced them and now it too is working good. I don't have the extended warranty on the '95 (ouch). It is really a funny feeling when the car doesn't shift, you see the tach going higher and higher but nothing happens. It appears they could have the LIMP MODE stick in 3rd rather than 2nd, that way if it happened on the highway or where you had to drive some distance to home or a mechanic you could do it without the engine going 4000 rpm and 25 or 30 mph. (Just a thought).
I hear ya...when my tranny did that it was just after a trip down the entrance ramp. I must have been going 75 when it popped back into 2nd. Kinda freaked me out, and the mile to the next exit was very interesting. But it's mearly a safeguard for the car to stay in 2nd. In that gear, neither of the solenoids are active (If I remember correctly) and this prevents any further damage. This thought didn't make me feel much better when trying to limp down the highway, but we made it. Glad to hear the repairs went without incident.
I don't see how you kept from blowing an engine if it kicked back to 2nd around 75. I know when mine stopped working it seemed at 30 the engine was wound up tight. Mine also went into LIMP MODE the next day after I came back from a trip. I'm sure glad it didn't happen when I was on the KS turnpike, it could be 30 to 50 miles to the next exit. I really have a good Ex-Olds dealer here with a great mechanic.
I hear ya...when my tranny did that it was just after a trip down the entrance ramp. I must have been going 75 when it popped back into 2nd. Kinda freaked me out, and the mile to the next exit was very interesting.
At first I thought the car had shut-off (see Holland tunnel story), then I realized where the RPM's were on the tach. Having heard about the 2nd gear problem from this board I was not overly concerned once I figured out what had happened.
I think we should start a new discussion titled "My aROARa won't get out of second gear story."
if it kicks into 2nd at 75 that would be like 6,000 rpm, but its not engaged, the clutches slip so its basically in nuetral till you slow down. when this happened to me there's no engine braking, for 2 days i had to speed up to like 55ish then coast down to 35ish and keep doing it to get to work (not to far) and it just coasted, no engine braking
about the fuel pump dying, does it always just die all together, or can it cause bad surging at all speeds before it goes?
Yes, there was no engine breaking when the car slipped into 2nd after I came down the entrance ramp to the NJ Turnpike.
I did see that the car was still on as I still had my power steering, brakes and such. However, after the car slowed down and I tired to apply gas the tach would move up. It was clear that the car was not shifting out of second gear.
The solenoids went just as I came down the ramp and was merging into traffic. I am glad/thankful there was nothing in the right lane that I was using the northstar to stay ahead of as I merged. If there were, the results might not have been pretty when the car slipped into second/neutral.
"Mine went a few months ago. No symptoms what so ever. Just died while I was driving"
As did mine. I was pulling across a fairly busy street during rush hour and... nothing. Left me sideways in the middle of the road blocking the center turning lane and the two inside ones.
I was lifting the spare out of the trunk today to get something that had fallen down there, and I noticed a puddle of water under the spare tire. I just washed the car yesterday, but logic would tell you if the trunk was leaking around the seals, the whole trunk would be wet, but it wasn't. Just under the spare. Anybody ever heard of this??
Yes. One of the cars I looked at with my Dad had that. I pulled the cover to check the spare, and noticed tons of water. I believe there is a TSB on this. The 3.5 trunk didn't leak due to the 2-piece, but for some reason the license plate part of the 1-piece trunk did.
I don't know what the exact fix is, though, but it wasn't an issue on later cars.
my cars surging very bad at all speeds, i don't have much gas left, im going to wait till its almost gone and fill it up before i do any part replacing...lol. it happened once before about 2 months ago?? were i just got a bad tank of gas.
thing that makes me wonder is, it drove like this when i got my car washed, but i found out it was just a spark plug boot out of its holder, snapped in back on and i can almost swear it drove fine that night on the way home (like a 2 minute drive) but the next day, drives horrible again. tomorrow i think ill start pulling spark plug wires off while its running to make sure i hear the sparks for the cylinders
First let me say that I am no mechanic. But, over my 30 years or so of driving, I've picked up a few things. My suggestions cost nothing and that's exactly what they're worth.
Having said that, my experience is that electrical problems are usually sharper interruptions(?) or "skips", while fuel problems tend to be more "surges". For instance, my '95 (105Kmiles) has just developed a recurring skip at the low end with a "tick tick sound" that -without even looking -I am sure is an arcing plug wire (they're original). It's clearly an electrical, sharp, skip. I'll be replacing the set this weekend.
However, I've also had bad gas or fuel filter problems that tended to "surge", especially at higher rpms.
If you feel yours is a fuel problem, I'd suggest filling up immediately (there's no benefit to running the rest of the bad gas out first if you're already low) with good premium and running a can or two of fuel injector cleaner through the tank. It may even run worse with the cleaner in it as it's flushing all the gunk through the system, but the NEXT tank of gas you put in should run good. If not, my next guess would be the fuel filter (run the cleaner through first before you change the filter - may even want to change the filter afterwards even if it fixed the problem).
Good Luck!
BTW, I may be one of the few '95 owners who hasn't had to replace the fuel rails yet (he says... rapidly knocking wood). Hurray for the recall!
Are you positive its not your FPR? I know you said you recently replaced yours, but your symptoms sound just like the FPR problem. These FPR's can go bad really quick. Especially with bad gas. And MN has a very poor quality of gas. Im on my 2nd FPR in 3 years. The second time I replaced it was because the car wouldnt start. I tried everything before I finally decided to put a new FPR on and it fixed it. The FPR can act up in different ways.
My suggestion. Fuel filter, FPR, electrical plugs/ wires/ coil packs.
OK, my mechanic friend/co-worker and I changed the plugs (0.05 gap, AC Delco) and wires (Delco) on both my and my mother-in-law's '98's. We also changed the Fuel Pressure Regulators (rather than risk Aurora Russian Roulette). We made sure the O-rings were seated per the service manual. These were genuine GM parts :-)
Since then, there have been issues with both vehicles. Both cars will sometimes crank for awhile (3 seconds) before starting. The MIL's also backfired yesterday. I also did the airbox mod, so I wasn't surprised that mine was running a little odd (seems a little better now - dang, it's loud when I put my foot down!)
I did the TPS reset (put key into run position for 30 seconds, turn off car, wait 30 seconds, then start), but didn't disconnect the battery. I think that's our next troubleshooting step.
For the M-I-L's car, if that doesn't resolve the backfire, we may swap back the other FPR. Any other troubleshooting suggestions?
The last time I replaced my FPR it was becasue my car wouldnt start right away. I would have to crank it for 3-5 seconds before it would crank over.Maybe you got some bad ones out the box.
also you know you have to turn the key on and off (20 sec intervals) 3 times before you start the car for the TPS reset.
"You don't have enough "flair"" - Office Space (great movie - for stress relief one day, we took a bunch of old dead monitors and pulled an "office space" on them. I still have the video :-)
Pulled the battery on my '98 and let it sit all afternoon. Started right up (no cranking) after reconnecting it - will see how it goes tomorrow. Kayaman, that's what I get for reading "another" forum - I suspect I needed the Throttle Position Sensor reset done correctly (especially after modding the airbox).
BTW, I did NOT cut the bottom of my airbox - just took out the lower baffle chamber, removed the beige-colored liner in the top, and then plugged the side baffle hole with a 2" PVC pipe cap from Menards (for a whopping $2.83 :-) <-idea from another forum.
It's loud under throttle, but it sounds great. My mileage has gone down since doing this, but I'm sure that's mostly because I've been putting my foot into it just to hear the A-ROAR-A. Definitely feels faster (though the new plugs and wires may play a part of that). I feel like I'm only half done - can't swing the Corsa yet, but that's next on my mods radar (hope they don't stop selling the system with the end of production on the current-model STS)...
how about this one?? littering and? littering and? literring, and smoking the refer... lol, the 2 best movies out there
definatly not a bad tank of gas. seems like its not THAT bad when its cold, but gets worse when it warms up. the car is SLOWWWWW at all speeds, horrible surging at light to mid throttle. under wot it surges some, but its just slow in general. at idle it goes from 600 to 950 back to 600 all over the place. still sound like the fpr?
here's somthing else i noticed. when i grab a spark plug wire, the front 4, if i grab the two in the middle i can FEEL a pulse going through the plug wire, its a pretty good pulse too, easy to notice. but the two on the end, when i grab them i don't feel anything, could it be a bad coil pack? i havn't tried the back 4, i have to take off the coil packs to get at those
i think im going to fix it, then sell it this summer.....stuff just keeps breaking
There's no reason the air box mod should make your Aurora run "odd" unless the temperature sensor in the box is no longer connected or otherwise inoperative.
When I changed spark plugs on my '97 last year, I gapped them to 0.050" per the Olds service manual. For some reason I felt uneasy about that; so I checked with an Olds dealer, who told me the gap should be 0.060". The tune-up label under the hood also shows 0.060". I am not suggesting that this difference is the cause of the problems you are experiencing.
I do know that I had a obvious stumble then surging through the speed range when water got under the boots of the two back passenger side spark plugs. I pulled wires until I got to the ones that didn't cause a change in the fluctuating idle. I grounded the wires because I was afraid I might damage the coils. I ende up removing and replacing those plugs because they had arced up the insulator sides and left a trail. I was told you can destroy the coil if this happens but mine were okay. The water had gotten in at the (touch free fresh water!) car wash because the rubber gasket that seals the cowl from the engine compartment had been dislodged.
P.S. I cleaned out the inside of the boots with some carb cleaner moistened swabs just in case the boots had conductive paths left by the minerals in the iron range water.
do you think it may have damaged my coil by running while the spark plug boot was dislodged? it had been arching for a while. ill check for water tomorrow, but im completly baffeled as to how to trouble shoot this.
also, what do you mean by "grounded them so you didn't damage the coils" you can damage the coils JUST by pulling the spark plug boots off for a sec? i hope i didn't do that! i pulled them off 1 by 1 while it was running to see if i could here clicking (the front 4)
are autolite spark plug wires any good? checkers has them for $69.99, or $120 for ac delco. i figure, even if this isn't the problem, they need to be replaced.
I think it takes more than a couple seconds but as I had a old (new) plug from my Bonneville and an alligator clip lying around it was easy enough to ground the plug to the block.
I like many others have seen or had bad experiences with others name brand wires. I'd stick with the OEM AC Delco wires. You can even in my experience get them from some place like G.M. Parts Direct or Rock Auto in a couple days if in stock and possibly for much cheaper than the $120.00 although of course you'd have to check these places on the web to see if that is true.
Paid $85 from my local Buick dealer (the local Olds dealer has been sending me there for parts lately when they haven't had 'em in stock). Wouldn't recommend going with non-Delco wires as those who have, have had issues...
well, i took the restrictor plate off the red dragon to give it a little more juice, but its not exactly street legal, so lets keep it on the down low....
:P
one of the coil ends was corroded really bad, the one that wasn't connected after the car wash, so i cleaned that off with steel wool, and got some spark plug wires (sorry, i already got the autolite's! wish me luck!) and its purring like a kitten. i feel kinda dumb saying this, but it does seem a little torquier, little more get up than before. maybe its just in my head, maybe because the oem wires had 138k on them, who knows.
ok now im confused, confused and mad. i drove for about 45 minutes, no problems, then i got a surge, shrugged it off. then i got a few more, light surges. hmmmm the later the night, the worse they got. under wot i get a few (4ish) up to about 55 now. so yeah, its back but not as bad as before, yet
what gives??
i pop the hood, i think i hear clicks (like the spark plug loose clicks) but there fainter than before, and definatly in the back. i get home, check them all, all tight. restart, idles fine (for now) but i don't drive it anywhere. brand new autolite spark plug wires - they seemed to help, for a while.
It took me much longer than I want to admit to realize that the faint clicking sound I heard from my first gasoline fuel-injected car (1986 Fiero V6) was the normal sound of the injectors.
If you put something like a long handled screwdriver against the injectors and the other end to your ear you can tell if it's the injectors clicking. A piece of hose works also but not as well. You can also sometimes tell if one of the injectors is bad. (sometimes)
i have on of those auto-stephescopes or whatever there called
so if a injector clicks its bad?
i only hear'd the clicking when it was running bad
i wonder, if i brought it to a cadillac dealership and they hook it up to a diagnostics machine they can tell what cylinders causeing the problems, that would be a start. probably charge me a arm and a leg for it! oh well
Lots of comments on these recently. How many of you are having problems with the AC Delco OEM FPR or is this aftermarket?? I haven't yet resolved the problems concerning my replacement with a Borg-Warner. Fixed the warm hard start, but the massive loss of power, much less roar in the exhaust to being able to hear the intake for the first time, and almost a stumble under some conditions, particularly when shifting under max acceleration. I contacted B-W on their website and finally got an answer after 3 weeks. Also a phone number so I talked to a QA Engineer and they couldn't even tell me if it is used on other vehicles. Questioned because of an expansion ring in the box that looked like it might be used in other applications.
I'll be getting my AC Delco FPR Sat. (come on Fedex! ). I post up my results then. I think I smelt some fuel. When I put it the DPR tom. I'll get the rail a once over.
The injectors click as the solenoid opens and closes them. Sometimes one will sound different or much louder than the others if it's sticking or the spray pattern is off kilter. Have you had the car scanned for codes? Autozone still does it for free.
E net rider, that was exactly the speculation on the Caddy board a couple years ago. People who bought aftermarket FPRs found that they were apparently calibrated to cover several different applications and the Northstar ran poorly using some of them and the FPRs didn't seem to last. ~70,000 miles or more with the the OEM.
Side thought; I'd also check and make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks.
My 2001 Aurora develops a howl at about 100 mph. I was traveling 65 mph bucking a 35 mph headwind when it started. When I increased my speed above 65 mph, the howl increased. It appeared to be originating from the roof somewhere at the point where the roof meets the rear window. I raised the sunroof about one inch and it stopped. Has anyone had this problem and how did you fix it or have you just been living with it? Thanks for any help. Kim
I've had my 2002 up to about 95mph and there was no unusual wind noise. Though, it was of course louder than driving at 60mph.
It could have just been the headwind. Strong winds don't usually blow very uniformly, so they tend to make more noise and such than just driving faster would. In addition, they are not always straight at your car. Is it a problem you have a lot?
You also might check your OnStar antennae. Does it stick up high? Maybe it's whistling in the wind.
I just came back from a drive and had it up to 190 km/hr (about 118 mph) and had the same howl problem. It is calm today. I tried taping up the joint between the rear window and the roof but the howl was still there. I taped up the joints just above the doors and the roof section on a previous trip with no luck in reducing the howl. I am stumped with this one. I do not have onstar. Kim Kim
Put in the AC Delco FPR today. Fix the problem as all you guys said. I really appreciate the info there.
As for a power loss, definetly not, if anything the power is slightly improved. I know for a fact partial throttle is vastly improved. I don't have to downshift to 1st or 2nd to pass.
On a side note, the "vent line" on the top of FPR to the TB had fuel in it. I guess something in the FPR broken and fuel was getting in there.
ok, so here's a little weekend recap. after i cleaned the coil tip it ran great, then it started to surge again, only to find out that the tip was a little burnt again. so you might be thinking, simple fix, just replace the coil. well i did that, ran great for 3 hours or so (alot of driving friday) then it slowly started to come back, and its back again really bad. so i take a look at the coil tip, looks fine. im starting to get upset here! im 99% sure its NOT the fpr, its a stumble/surge at all speeds, but the engine rocks back and forth at idle in gear (not so much in park) so this makes me believe its a cylinder not firing. so the search continues....i did find a complete set of coilpacks on ebay, off a brand new northstar engine (new reclaimed) which would run me $120-$135) but i replaced the coil already, some off name brand though.....ugh i dunno. spark plugs next? i don't get why it would run great then like crap.
I have no idea what this means, "well, i took the restrictor plate off the red dragon to give it a little more juice, but its not exactly street legal, so lets keep it on the down low...." Is it pertinent to your problem?
If I had your problem, I would try to get a code scan done. That will tell you which cylinder(s) are experiencing misfires. Some auto parts stores will do this for free.
lol, it was a quote from "old school" a movie, i put it in because someone did one from office space.
ive got a 95, obd I, not nearly as accurate as obdII which would tell me all this info. plus ive tried autozone, and today checkers, there scanners will NOT hook up with my car.
My 95 Aurora with 101K starts fine when it's cold and even when it's warm or hot,with an occassional longer start every now and then when it's warm, over the past 4 years. but recently it's been taking too long to start when the engine is warm or hot...I know I've read about this before on this post somewhere but I can't seem to find it...what causes this problem...was it the FPR or fuel pump going bad..or is it electrical...can someone advise please....thanks. also the 2 major repairs so far with this car were of course the famous shift selenoids and the leaking fuel railing wich I just read an article (03-12-2004)that GM is recalling over 93,000 95-97 Aurora models for the fuel leak...so I'm gona try to go back to the dealer so maybe they can refund me my $500+ that I paid 6 month ago for that railing.
The symptom is the consistent with a leaky FPR. Get an AC Delco replacement. Cost will be about $45 if you can find a discount distributor/retailer. It's an easy, 10-minute job to replace.
Good luck with this and good luck getting a refund for the fuel rail. Do you know what failed on your fuel rail?
I think that I have found the cause of my high speed howl. When the annoying howl was occurring I turned on the fan control to high speed and the howl stopped. I have taped up all seams previously with no improvement. I think the tin roof in vibrating half way between the rear of the sunroof and the front edge of the rear window. I pressed down on it and it moves fairly easily. I think the high speed air flowing over it causes it to vibrate at hi frequency resulting in the the howling sound. The fan set on high must increase the inside cabin pressure just enough to move the tin roof up a bit to prevent the howling. Kim
Comments
Then my '95 must have gotten sympathy pains because two days latter it went in LIMP MODE. The transmission starts in 2nd gear and never shifts out of 2nd. I took it over to the Olds mechanic and he said the solenoids were bad. He replaced them and now it too is working good. I don't have the extended warranty on the '95 (ouch). It is really a funny feeling when the car doesn't shift, you see the tach going higher and higher but nothing happens. It appears they could have the LIMP MODE stick in 3rd rather than 2nd, that way if it happened on the highway or where you had to drive some distance to home or a mechanic you could do it without the engine going 4000 rpm and 25 or 30 mph. (Just a thought).
-Brian
At first I thought the car had shut-off (see Holland tunnel story), then I realized where the RPM's were on the tach. Having heard about the 2nd gear problem from this board I was not overly concerned once I figured out what had happened.
I think we should start a new discussion titled "My aROARa won't get out of second gear story."
We'd also need one entitled "Where were you when your Aurora's fuel pump died?" although I think you win that contest so far :-)
--Robert
(worried about this as his car approaches 80k mi :-)
about the fuel pump dying, does it always just die all together, or can it cause bad surging at all speeds before it goes?
I did see that the car was still on as I still had my power steering, brakes and such. However, after the car slowed down and I tired to apply gas the tach would move up. It was clear that the car was not shifting out of second gear.
The solenoids went just as I came down the ramp and was merging into traffic. I am glad/thankful there was nothing in the right lane that I was using the northstar to stay ahead of as I merged. If there were, the results might not have been pretty when the car slipped into second/neutral.
Still here to tell the stories,
Henri
As did mine. I was pulling across a fairly busy street during rush hour and... nothing. Left me sideways in the middle of the road blocking the center turning lane and the two inside ones.
I don't know what the exact fix is, though, but it wasn't an issue on later cars.
my cars surging very bad at all speeds, i don't have much gas left, im going to wait till its almost gone and fill it up before i do any part replacing...lol. it happened once before about 2 months ago?? were i just got a bad tank of gas.
thing that makes me wonder is, it drove like this when i got my car washed, but i found out it was just a spark plug boot out of its holder, snapped in back on and i can almost swear it drove fine that night on the way home (like a 2 minute drive) but the next day, drives horrible again. tomorrow i think ill start pulling spark plug wires off while its running to make sure i hear the sparks for the cylinders
Having said that, my experience is that electrical problems are usually sharper interruptions(?) or "skips", while fuel problems tend to be more "surges". For instance, my '95 (105Kmiles) has just developed a recurring skip at the low end with a "tick tick sound" that -without even looking -I am sure is an arcing plug wire (they're original). It's clearly an electrical, sharp, skip. I'll be replacing the set this weekend.
However, I've also had bad gas or fuel filter problems that tended to "surge", especially at higher rpms.
If you feel yours is a fuel problem, I'd suggest filling up immediately (there's no benefit to running the rest of the bad gas out first if you're already low) with good premium and running a can or two of fuel injector cleaner through the tank. It may even run worse with the cleaner in it as it's flushing all the gunk through the system, but the NEXT tank of gas you put in should run good. If not, my next guess would be the fuel filter (run the cleaner through first before you change the filter - may even want to change the filter afterwards even if it fixed the problem).
Good Luck!
BTW, I may be one of the few '95 owners who hasn't had to replace the fuel rails yet (he says... rapidly knocking wood). Hurray for the recall!
My suggestion. Fuel filter, FPR, electrical plugs/ wires/ coil packs.
Since then, there have been issues with both vehicles. Both cars will sometimes crank for awhile (3 seconds) before starting. The MIL's also backfired yesterday. I also did the airbox mod, so I wasn't surprised that mine was running a little odd (seems a little better now - dang, it's loud when I put my foot down!)
I did the TPS reset (put key into run position for 30 seconds, turn off car, wait 30 seconds, then start), but didn't disconnect the battery. I think that's our next troubleshooting step.
For the M-I-L's car, if that doesn't resolve the backfire, we may swap back the other FPR. Any other troubleshooting suggestions?
--Robert
also you know you have to turn the key on and off (20 sec intervals) 3 times before you start the car for the TPS reset.
Sorry, first thing that popped into my head. Obscure movie reference. If you get can name it I'll give you back your red stapler....
Langod (formerly nne3jxc)
Pulled the battery on my '98 and let it sit all afternoon. Started right up (no cranking) after reconnecting it - will see how it goes tomorrow. Kayaman, that's what I get for reading "another" forum - I suspect I needed the Throttle Position Sensor reset done correctly (especially after modding the airbox).
BTW, I did NOT cut the bottom of my airbox - just took out the lower baffle chamber, removed the beige-colored liner in the top, and then plugged the side baffle hole with a 2" PVC pipe cap from Menards (for a whopping $2.83 :-) <-idea from another forum.
It's loud under throttle, but it sounds great. My mileage has gone down since doing this, but I'm sure that's mostly because I've been putting my foot into it just to hear the A-ROAR-A. Definitely feels faster (though the new plugs and wires may play a part of that). I feel like I'm only half done - can't swing the Corsa yet, but that's next on my mods radar (hope they don't stop selling the system with the end of production on the current-model STS)...
--Robert
lol, the 2 best movies out there
definatly not a bad tank of gas. seems like its not THAT bad when its cold, but gets worse when it warms up. the car is SLOWWWWW at all speeds, horrible surging at light to mid throttle. under wot it surges some, but its just slow in general. at idle it goes from 600 to 950 back to 600 all over the place. still sound like the fpr?
here's somthing else i noticed. when i grab a spark plug wire, the front 4, if i grab the two in the middle i can FEEL a pulse going through the plug wire, its a pretty good pulse too, easy to notice. but the two on the end, when i grab them i don't feel anything, could it be a bad coil pack? i havn't tried the back 4, i have to take off the coil packs to get at those
i think im going to fix it, then sell it this summer.....stuff just keeps breaking
There's no reason the air box mod should make your Aurora run "odd" unless the temperature sensor in the box is no longer connected or otherwise inoperative.
When I changed spark plugs on my '97 last year, I gapped them to 0.050" per the Olds service manual. For some reason I felt uneasy about that; so I checked with an Olds dealer, who told me the gap should be 0.060". The tune-up label under the hood also shows 0.060". I am not suggesting that this difference is the cause of the problems you are experiencing.
Les
The water had gotten in at the (touch free fresh water!) car wash because the rubber gasket that seals the cowl from the engine compartment had been dislodged.
P.S. I cleaned out the inside of the boots with some carb cleaner moistened swabs just in case the boots had conductive paths left by the minerals in the iron range water.
I like many others have seen or had bad experiences with others name brand wires. I'd stick with the OEM AC Delco wires. You can even in my experience get them from some place like G.M. Parts Direct or Rock Auto in a couple days if in stock and possibly for much cheaper than the $120.00 although of course you'd have to check these places on the web to see if that is true.
--Robert
:P
one of the coil ends was corroded really bad, the one that wasn't connected after the car wash, so i cleaned that off with steel wool, and got some spark plug wires (sorry, i already got the autolite's! wish me luck!) and its purring like a kitten. i feel kinda dumb saying this, but it does seem a little torquier, little more get up than before. maybe its just in my head, maybe because the oem wires had 138k on them, who knows.
thanks for the help
what gives??
i pop the hood, i think i hear clicks (like the spark plug loose clicks) but there fainter than before, and definatly in the back. i get home, check them all, all tight. restart, idles fine (for now) but i don't drive it anywhere. brand new autolite spark plug wires - they seemed to help, for a while.
jeez
It took me much longer than I want to admit to realize that the faint clicking sound I heard from my first gasoline fuel-injected car (1986 Fiero V6) was the normal sound of the injectors.
Could that be what you are hearing?
Les
so if a injector clicks its bad?
i only hear'd the clicking when it was running bad
i wonder, if i brought it to a cadillac dealership and they hook it up to a diagnostics machine they can tell what cylinders causeing the problems, that would be a start. probably charge me a arm and a leg for it! oh well
I haven't yet resolved the problems concerning my replacement with a Borg-Warner. Fixed the warm hard start, but the massive loss of power, much less roar in the exhaust to being able to hear the intake for the first time, and almost a stumble under some conditions, particularly when shifting under max acceleration. I contacted B-W on their website and finally got an answer after 3 weeks. Also a phone number so I talked to a QA Engineer and they couldn't even tell me if it is used on other vehicles. Questioned because of an expansion ring in the box that looked like it might be used in other applications.
E net rider, that was exactly the speculation on the Caddy board a couple years ago. People who bought aftermarket FPRs found that they were apparently calibrated to cover several different applications and the Northstar ran poorly using some of them and the FPRs didn't seem to last. ~70,000 miles or more with the the OEM.
Side thought;
I'd also check and make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks.
Thanks for any help.
Kim
It could have just been the headwind. Strong winds don't usually blow very uniformly, so they tend to make more noise and such than just driving faster would. In addition, they are not always straight at your car. Is it a problem you have a lot?
You also might check your OnStar antennae. Does it stick up high? Maybe it's whistling in the wind.
Kim
Kim
As for a power loss, definetly not, if anything the power is slightly improved. I know for a fact partial throttle is vastly improved. I don't have to downshift to 1st or 2nd to pass.
On a side note, the "vent line" on the top of FPR to the TB had fuel in it. I guess something in the FPR broken and fuel was getting in there.
Henri
I have no idea what this means, "well, i took the restrictor plate off the red dragon to give it a little more juice, but its not exactly street legal, so lets keep it on the down low...." Is it pertinent to your problem?
If I had your problem, I would try to get a code scan done. That will tell you which cylinder(s) are experiencing misfires. Some auto parts stores will do this for free.
Les
ive got a 95, obd I, not nearly as accurate as obdII which would tell me all this info. plus ive tried autozone, and today checkers, there scanners will NOT hook up with my car.
also the 2 major repairs so far with this car were of course the famous shift selenoids and the leaking fuel railing wich I just read an article (03-12-2004)that GM is recalling over 93,000 95-97 Aurora models for the fuel leak...so I'm gona try to go back to the dealer so maybe they can refund me my $500+ that I paid 6 month ago for that railing.
The symptom is the consistent with a leaky FPR. Get an AC Delco replacement. Cost will be about $45 if you can find a discount distributor/retailer. It's an easy, 10-minute job to replace.
Good luck with this and good luck getting a refund for the fuel rail. Do you know what failed on your fuel rail?
Sorry. I forgot you had OBDI.
I'm really annoyed that Edmund's dropped the automobile entry from our profiles.
Les
Kim