thanks for the help...what failed was one of the black plastic hoses had a pin hole in it but it was spraying and shooting fuel straight out, I guess it was caused by the fuel pressure...the rest of the hoses looked fine and I really hated to change it, especially when they told me that the entire railing has to be changed and it was almost $400 in parts, I thought this should've been a safety recall before I even read about the recall 2 days ago....I knew it was bad because when I called AAA to come tow my car to the dealer because I was afraid it would catch on fire, they wanted to send me the fire department along with AAA to check it out first, I guess it's procedure when it comes to fuel leaks, I guess I was luckier than the guy that his Aurora caught on fire inside his garage and destroyed it and damaged his house....I'm gona try to buy that FPR and install it, and I'm gona try to get my money back for that recal..man that makes me mad...but I was reading that article and saw that NHTSA received around 120 complaints about this...heck if that's all it takes to get a recall going then we have enough people on this post to complain about the shift selenoids...I think everyone that has an Aurora already experienced the terror of going down the road at 80 MPH then all of the sudden the car going in second gear...sucks....maybe I'll get their complaint email address and post it here for everyone to send in their complaint....
all the 95-97's i believe..the fuel rail was recalled, if thats what they replaced they have NO right charging you anything at all. its been recalled, id call gm or talk to the dealer superevisor about this. i have no problems with my 95, but i plan on giving them a call soon just as preventitive maintaince to get it changed out.
That seems odd. I've never noticed in the course of polishing my roof that it was wobbly or buckled easily. I wonder if this is something you would want to get checked out? The headliner is removable (as a unit, i.e. easily removable) on our cars, maybe it isn't pressing against the roof properly or something?
Also, there will always be more pressure in the car than out of it when you are traveling at high speeds. The air moving over the roof at 100+mph will be very low pressure. This is why your car gets lighter as speeds increase (unless you have some downforce-producing device).
Also, kudos to you for blasting up to 118mph. I've only had my car up to about 95mph. I trust you are very conscientious of tire pressures and tire condition?
i found out my problem, permanantly. so it was running fine, then all of the sudden, crap again. check everything, seems ok. but that one spark plug wire that blew out on the car wash, just wouldn't "click" into place, i had to push H A R D to get it to snap in, and it barely went in. so i think whats happenening, is its just popping out every so often. (which is odd because that coil really did have a bad coil too)
anyone ever have this problem? how can i fix it? i already have new spark plugs comming, ordered them so i might as well put them in even though the ones in there are probably good. i don't know how i can make it seat any better, i already tossed the oem wires, but they seemed to have the same problem on #5
can someone tell me where the fuel pressure regulator is on the 95 Aurora...the dealer wanted $195 for the part..where can I get it cheaper and is there any special tools I need to change it..?thanks...I got with my dealer about the recall and since I already paid for it ($550) 5 month ago....he said that I will be getting a letter from GM to the address where my Aurora is registered then I can check the option that says" If you already paid for your recall" then I just fill it out, send it in and I guess they send me the money back, but as of yesterday the service manager himself didn't know about the recall..I guess sometimes in later May we'll start seeing these letters....we better...
you can pick up a fpr from autozone for $75ish for a off brand, but from my recent and other experiences, only get ac delco. rockauto.com has them for $90, much cheaper than the dealer. its under "EFI pressure regulator"
changing it takes less than a minute, no joke. pop the hood its on the back right of the engine, when you go to take it off, put a big rag on your hand becuase a little fuel will spray out, as soon as you get the part, you'll know what it looks like, and you'll spot it in like 5 seconds.
no special tools, maybe a thin regular screwdriver to pop the retaining clip off
Call around to GM dealers. The FPR for my and my mother-in-law's '98's was $36.64 (list price $66.63, p/n 17113346) at the local Buick dealer (Olds/GMC dealer keeps referring me there for parts - I think they'll be closing soon, or something).
It's literally a ten-minute job. You do have to remove the engine cover to access the FPR, and release pressure on the fuel system (let the car sit for a few hours, and remove the gas cap). A little fuel will leak out when you remove it, so have some rags nearby.
Thanks for the information rjs, I had checked my tire pressure the day before the high speed run and my tires are all in good shape. I agree with your negative air pressure statement. I have been flying ultralight airplanes for 18 years and the top of the roof is very similar to the top of an airplane wing – negative pressure. I have not tried to take the underside of my roof out yet. I gently pulled on the fabric just back of the sunroof and it began to release its hold. It appears that I will have to take the hand holds off that are located above the doors. Do you have any other suggestions for removing the roof underside? Thanks for any information Kim
36 & 66?!?!? The two dealers I call quoted $160 plus tax at a very popular Cadillac dealer (Coral Cadillac)and $190 plus tax at a Cadillac/Oldsmobile dealer.
I got mine at rockauto.com fast response and shipments.
I'll take a look at my service manual and see what it says for removing the headliner. I imagine you have to remove a few trim pieces first. When you pulled the fabric, it was like a solid backing that pulled too, right? You don't want to pull the fabric off the backing.
95mushroom, what I was referring to is that my roof is not that flimsy. I use a Porter Cable random-orbit buffer on it and the roof has never given in at all.
well no wonder why I couldn't find it..I didn't know I was suppose to take off that plastic gray cover, I knew that it looked like a mushroom but I couldn't find anything that looked like that with the cover on...someone mentioned that it's by the #7 injector and I have to take the cover off..so I guess I'll do that tomorrow...but I guess first I need to get the part...thanks to everyone for their help on the part number and the "how to do it" hints..I can't believe the Cadillac/Olds delare wanted $190...rip off...
I had been driving for a few months with a bearing noise from a pulley. Took it in to get diagnosed three or four weeks back and learned the idler and tensionor pulleys where about to go.
Last week the fan belt began to shred (I took that as a hint - after all, I do have a college edumacation). I still had to put about 150 miles on it and then drove it into the shop to get fixed yesterday ($490 for both replaced w/ new fan belt).
The mechanic told me one of the pulleys apparently had seized (as he pulled it onto the rack?) because when he removed it, he couldn't turn it in his hand.
Does anyone know how diligent GM is in contacting owners of recalled vehicles? I doubt that GM knows I own my '97. At a minimum it went through the original owner, an auction, a retail dealer, then me. I did have warranty service done at an authorized Olds dealer, so maybe GM has that record.
Les, I'd register at the GM Owner Center at http://www.mygmlink.com - you'll need to enter your VIN, of course, but this should get you on some kind of notification list...
1997 Aurora. Do you know what causes this???? Turning to right, power assist is normal...turning to left, is like no power assist. Further, it is somewhat intermittent. Steering is normal when first started, but problem occurs after driving for 5-10 minutes. If you know what causes this and/or how to solve it, please respond. jlf
they usually send the notification to the address where the car is registered. I belive GM does a search for all the cars with the VIN number that needs to be recalled. However the dealer won't do anything until they get notified. You're suppose to get your money back if you paid for the recall, at least that's what I was told by the dealer. Expect to see letters in the mail around May sometime.
The left rear shock on my 95 has been leaking for about 2 month now. I find small puddles in my garage and sometimes a drop or two. Is that ok or do I have to have it changed and what happens if I keep driving it like that. It seems to be driving fine. Maybe some hard to hear sqweeking coming from the back but that's about it.
well folks, I went on the NHTSA website and filled a complaint on the shift selenoid issue. Maybe they'll make it a recall and we can get our money back. please go to the website and fill out the form, it's very easy and won't take but a couple of minutes, it's worth the $500 I paid the dealer to fix those selenoids.I included the website and what I wrote as far as my complaint. Remember, it's a safety complaint so make sure you put in there how it affected your safety, as in my case I was almost rear ended when my car went from 70 MPH to 20MPH on the interstate. So make sure you articulate how your SAFETY was jeopordized. on the website you can also search for recalls or file your own complaint like I did..please please do it.http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/.
Can any of you 1998-1999 Classic owners tell the rest of us if your fuel rails are stainless steel instead of the black nylon tubing on the '95-'97s? If yes, I suspect that is the reason '98s and '99s are not included in the recall.
I just took a look at the fuel rail on my '97. It consists of 10 pieces of black nylon tubing, three stainless steel pipes, and eight fuel-injector connectors (one of which holds the FPR). There are several other black plastic tubes labeled "gasoline" that connect to the fuel rail; they look like the same material as the fuel rail nylon tubing. I wonder if those will be part of the recall also.
The current NHTSA campaign report remedy section states, "Dealers will also install a revised chassis fuel return line."
Well, if they are recalling any nylon in the fuel lines, the 2001+ will eventually be recalled too. My car has nylon lines that run up to the stainless steel lines by the injectors (I didn't pull the sight shield, I was noticing this while doing the airbox wrap). So I would guess these would need to be replaced too.
I spent most of the day trying to come up with a reason for my high speed howl. I previously thought that it was the roof tin vibrating. I tried taping a thin sturdy hardwood strip down the center of the roof to give it some support with no luck, the same howl occurred when the airspeed over the roof reached about 100 mph (I was bucking a 30 mph head wind). I thought that if I disrupt the airflow over the roof it may show some sign of change, I taped a yardstick sideways across the roof and did a test run with no improvement. I firmly taped a 2 foot square .032 sheet of 6061 T6 aircraft aluminum in the middle of the roof making the roof much more firm and did another test run, no change. My daughter came home so I asked her to drive (with nothing taped to the roof) and I sat in the back seat trying to locate the exact vibration source. When we reached about 70 mph (100 mph air speed) the howling began, it was difficult to locate the exact spot that was howling. I placed my hand on the middle inside of the rear window and felt a considerable amount of vibration there. There was less vibration at the upper and lower extremities of the rear window. So there goes my theory of the roof tin vibrating. Here goes my latest theory; I think that the roof line and overall design of the Aurora caused a fair bit of air turbulence in the middle of the rear window. The upper rear window seal is not very streamlined and may be part of the problem. I also was able to stop the howling by opening the rear windows about one inch. I think that this may change the airflow around the side of the car enough to stop the howl. The howl also stops when the rear edge of the sunroof is opened about one inch. If anyone has some helpful theories pleas post them. I am getting rather frustrated. I did have one good moment working on my Aurora, I fixed my heated seat problem. I found a broken wire going to a thermister located under my left cheek. The heated seat works fine after I fixed it.
I posted here after my spark plug/wire and FPR replacement, that the car took some time cranking before it started. My mother-in-law was having the same problem, except hers was backfiring once in awhile, too (seemed to happen only after the car sat for 2-3 days)!
The weather was nice this weekend, so I took my FPR out and noticed that the small O-ring at the bottom had developed a hole in it. It seems like the O-ring didn't want to seat, and when the FPR was snapped in, it tore the O-ring, probably leading to a small amount of leakage. Found out from the Buick dealer that there's an FPR gasket kit for $9 which includes this small O-ring - can't get it any other way (other than to spend another $36 or so for another FPR). In the meantime, I've put my old FPR/O-ring back in, and it's fine. The new one seems surprisingly larger than the old one, probably because the old one's been seated for 6+ years :-)
When I get this kit (tomorrow) I'll put a little oil on this O-ring, and make sure it's seated before putting the FPR on. Then, to re-do the mother-in-law's car...
Any ideas for making my engine run smoother? I'm starting to feel like I'm driving my beater Escort. When I let off the gas, the engine shakes (or I think the engine does) and sends nasty vibrations into the inside. Also idle seems way off. Its just a tick above 500. When I lightly press the gas it helps and smoothens it out. I did the reset and didn't help. The plugs and wires are newer then 8k (though not AC Delco) and I half-jobbed the gaps. Could the gaps make that it that bad? What else could it be? PCV, EGR?
Lastly, my trans has finally pushed me over the edge. It slammed in it reverse so hard today. Could I tune the pressure some how? Also overdrive slams in and out (feel and audible). I just getting worried about dropping $3k for a new one. Will a fluid change help?
...to clean the fuel injectors. You can try putting an additive in like Techron, or you can buy/borrow an injector cleaner kit. I'm opting for the latter (co-worker is a car repair nut who always has 4-5 projects going on (after work) for various other co-workers, friends, and family).
My car is idling a little rough... last time it did this, the dealer threw in some InjectorGuard and that cleaned the problem right up. Didn't charge me, either, though I had brought the car back in due to them putting 9 quarts of oil in (oops :-)
so STP wouldnt be enough?lol Where could I get some InjectorGuard? Also looked and tryed to find some cleaner kits that werent $500. No luck. All the kits do, I believe is pressurize their cleaner. If I could just get their cleaner and let the injector sit a lil' bit in it could help?
Well, my 98 classic is developing another of the common problems...the old idler/tensioner pully screetch. It only occurs when the engine is cold and dissipates upon warming up. It seems to me that these pulleys should be able to be lubricated with something to extend their life. But then again, maybe they can't. Many of you knowledgeable ones have dealt with this before. What would you advise, try to grease 'em and if so with what? Or just bite the bullet and get them replaced? I have a can of GM spray lube.
Marshall - I'm assuming you're talking about the serpentine belt pulley, and not the water pump belt tensioner pulley? If that is the case, then I can help you out. The problem is that the bearing itself is sealed, which makes it pretty tough to get any type of lube in there. You would have to completely remove it to grease it anyways, so you would definately be better off just replacing it. Once they start making noise they are shot anyways.
Mine was making a faint squealing noise so I replaced it. I think it was around $13 from Hutchins Automotive. They sure don't leave you much working room, but it is possible to change the pulley if you have some hand tools. Good luck Pete
Well i changed the FPR a few days ago, it took about 10 minutes including taking off the plastic cover, and it starts as good as new good now when it's warm or hot(knock on wood)...but I still paid $100 from a local Bumper to Bumper parts stor, which was the cheapest..everyone else wanted $155 and up, I saw it for $89 on an internet site but I didn't feel comfortable buying it from there, plus it would've ended up costing the same with shipping, by the way the plastic cover is tricky...if u take it off while the engine is cold and u try to put it back on while the engine is hot, the 4 screws won't fit on the 4 holes correctly, I guess the metal expands and will be hard to fit the cover back on it, I had it off for 2 days when my fuel rail was leaking and it gave me a hard time putting it back on, but this time with the FPR, I took it off cold and put it back on cold and it fit good...just a quick tip for those who plan on taking off the cover and driving around with it off for a few days. Also the Fuel rail that the dealer installed for me also had the nylon hoses but that was a few month agao before knowing about the recall...does that mean they're gona have to take it off again and install the stainless steel ones....?does anyone know
My service engine light has come on two times in the last three weeks. I plugged my OBD 11 code reader in and had a P0741 code which is “Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off” listing in my code reader manual. The service engine light came on for the second time yesterday and the same old P0741 code came up. I have cancelled the code each time but want to get more information on the problem before handing my 2001 4L Aurora over to a repair shop. The car shifts well and performs OK. I am running about 2,200 revs at 70 mph. Has anyone had similar problems and if so how big a repair bill did you get hit with? Thanks for any information. Kim
It's kind of ironic that you're having this problem right now, as my brother had an Aurora in the shop this week with torque converter problems. I was just commenting that it was the first Aurora that I had heard about with those issues.
If there is a problems with the clutch, they are just going to replace the entire torque converter anyway, but they may look into things like the pressure control solenoid and more. I think it'll be a pretty heafty repair bill, and anything that involves opening up the tranny for that would generally be close to a thousand-dollar operation.
It may be in your best interests to take it to a dealer...even though they may charge a bit more per hour, they may be familiar with the routine, so the job may go faster in the end. Let us know what they have to say about it. Good luck!
After lurking these forums for the past few months I finally signed up. I did a tune up on my beloved 115k 98 Aurora today after issues with stalling, misfire & sluggish performance that has become problematic over the past few weeks. I changed the FPR & spark plugs (AC Delco)and I also replaced the fuel filter. Now the car is running better then ever and the performance increase has been amazing. Hopefully it'll help with the stalling issue as well.
I scored a 5 disk set of GM Service Information Program from a guy on sell.com. They are worth every penny, it has detailed shop manuals for every GM car from 82-2002. It has been a life saver in my recent aurora issues. It covers all of GM's TSB's and gives you indepth diagrams of most motors (including the aurora).
I would strongly reccomend that you all go buy these disks off this guy, they are worth every bit of $20.00.
Well, doesn't look like the FPR, fuel filter & plugs fixed the stalling issue. After reading through the forums again, I'll be looking into the price of a new EGR valve or the IAC.
Hope somebody can help. I have a 2001 and when I put the A/C on yesterday, I set the temp on 60, turned the blower on high, and it started to cool down. After about a minute, the A/C light would go off, it blew warm, the A/C light came back on it, it blew cool, and so on. It just kept cycling warm then cold. I had it on manual, not automatic. Could I be low on refrigrant? Hopefully the compressor is not going.
Anyone tried to remove their oil pan? I am trying to replace the seal but can't get to a bolt in the back blocked by the transmission. Anyone know any tricks? Shop manuals don't mention it
Comments
Also, there will always be more pressure in the car than out of it when you are traveling at high speeds. The air moving over the roof at 100+mph will be very low pressure. This is why your car gets lighter as speeds increase (unless you have some downforce-producing device).
Also, kudos to you for blasting up to 118mph. I've only had my car up to about 95mph. I trust you are very conscientious of tire pressures and tire condition?
anyone ever have this problem? how can i fix it? i already have new spark plugs comming, ordered them so i might as well put them in even though the ones in there are probably good. i don't know how i can make it seat any better, i already tossed the oem wires, but they seemed to have the same problem on #5
changing it takes less than a minute, no joke. pop the hood its on the back right of the engine, when you go to take it off, put a big rag on your hand becuase a little fuel will spray out, as soon as you get the part, you'll know what it looks like, and you'll spot it in like 5 seconds.
no special tools, maybe a thin regular screwdriver to pop the retaining clip off
It's literally a ten-minute job. You do have to remove the engine cover to access the FPR, and release pressure on the fuel system (let the car sit for a few hours, and remove the gas cap). A little fuel will leak out when you remove it, so have some rags nearby.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Kim
I got mine at rockauto.com fast response and shipments.
95mushroom, what I was referring to is that my roof is not that flimsy. I use a Porter Cable random-orbit buffer on it and the roof has never given in at all.
All other Classics use GM part number 17113346 (AC Delco part number 217397); list is $67.63; RockAuto's price is $38.79.
The FPR is mounted atop the #7 fuel injector. Others have accurately described how to replace it.
Les
"BTW, I may be one of the few '95 owners who hasn't had to replace the fuel rails yet (he says... rapidly knocking wood). Hurray for the recall!"
Must not have knocked wood hard enough. Guess who's fuel rail sprung a leak yesterday? AAAAARRRGGGGHHHHH!
I'm Duct-taping that bad boy and hope it will last until I get the official notification.
Last week the fan belt began to shred (I took that as a hint - after all, I do have a college edumacation). I still had to put about 150 miles on it and then drove it into the shop to get fixed yesterday ($490 for both replaced w/ new fan belt).
The mechanic told me one of the pulleys apparently had seized (as he pulled it onto the rack?) because when he removed it, he couldn't turn it in his hand.
God is Good, my Guardian Angel was with me!
Les
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Do you know what causes this???? Turning to right, power assist is normal...turning to left, is like no power assist. Further, it is somewhat intermittent. Steering is normal when first started, but problem occurs after driving for 5-10 minutes.
If you know what causes this and/or how to solve it, please respond.
jlf
you may want to print it and take it to your dealer.
I just took a look at the fuel rail on my '97. It consists of 10 pieces of black nylon tubing, three stainless steel pipes, and eight fuel-injector connectors (one of which holds the FPR). There are several other black plastic tubes labeled "gasoline" that connect to the fuel rail; they look like the same material as the fuel rail nylon tubing. I wonder if those will be part of the recall also.
The current NHTSA campaign report remedy section states, "Dealers will also install a revised chassis fuel return line."
Les
Kim
I posted here after my spark plug/wire and FPR replacement, that the car took some time cranking before it started. My mother-in-law was having the same problem, except hers was backfiring once in awhile, too (seemed to happen only after the car sat for 2-3 days)!
The weather was nice this weekend, so I took my FPR out and noticed that the small O-ring at the bottom had developed a hole in it. It seems like the O-ring didn't want to seat, and when the FPR was snapped in, it tore the O-ring, probably leading to a small amount of leakage. Found out from the Buick dealer that there's an FPR gasket kit for $9 which includes this small O-ring - can't get it any other way (other than to spend another $36 or so for another FPR). In the meantime, I've put my old FPR/O-ring back in, and it's fine. The new one seems surprisingly larger than the old one, probably because the old one's been seated for 6+ years :-)
When I get this kit (tomorrow) I'll put a little oil on this O-ring, and make sure it's seated before putting the FPR on. Then, to re-do the mother-in-law's car...
Just a heads up,
--Robert
Lastly, my trans has finally pushed me over the edge. It slammed in it reverse so hard today. Could I tune the pressure some how? Also overdrive slams in and out (feel and audible). I just getting worried about dropping $3k for a new one. Will a fluid change help?
My car is idling a little rough... last time it did this, the dealer threw in some InjectorGuard and that cleaned the problem right up. Didn't charge me, either, though I had brought the car back in due to them putting 9 quarts of oil in (oops :-)
--Robert
That is because it takes nine quarts for the dip stick to read full. But we have beat that topic to death.
thought it was 7.5 to 8 :P
Marshall
If that is the case, then I can help you out. The problem is that the bearing itself is sealed, which makes it pretty tough to get any type of lube in there. You would have to completely remove it to grease it anyways, so you would definately be better off just replacing it. Once they start making noise they are shot anyways.
Mine was making a faint squealing noise so I replaced it. I think it was around $13 from Hutchins Automotive. They sure don't leave you much working room, but it is possible to change the pulley if you have some hand tools.
Good luck
Pete
Kim
It's kind of ironic that you're having this problem right now, as my brother had an Aurora in the shop this week with torque converter problems. I was just commenting that it was the first Aurora that I had heard about with those issues.
If there is a problems with the clutch, they are just going to replace the entire torque converter anyway, but they may look into things like the pressure control solenoid and more. I think it'll be a pretty heafty repair bill, and anything that involves opening up the tranny for that would generally be close to a thousand-dollar operation.
It may be in your best interests to take it to a dealer...even though they may charge a bit more per hour, they may be familiar with the routine, so the job may go faster in the end. Let us know what they have to say about it. Good luck!
-Brian
I would strongly reccomend that you all go buy these disks off this guy, they are worth every bit of $20.00.
....Just wanted to share the info...
Thanks,
Eric
http://www.sell.com/2M6ZG
i found EVERY haynes manual off emule file donkey, except GM - EVERYTHING - Ford, aston martin, whatever, i have it, except gm....
Peace.
Javi
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Thanks
Eric