Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

e_net_rider

So the power of the 4.0 is 250 HP, stock as I understand. Can anyone tell me the power for the 3.5? is that a V6? Is that engine used in anything else. I'm doing a little looking around. I like this 4.0, but I think I might be money ahead to try to make a move into something else.

e_net_rider

I took a close look, and actually removed it. Seems to easy. If it doesn't come with a new Oring would be the only thing concerning seal. The price seems insane considering what the part is.

hammen2

I believe the 3.5 was 215 hp, don't recall the torque rating (230?). Only available in 99.5-2002 Intrigues and 2001-2002 Auroras. I've heard that the 3.5 is a little underpowered for the heavier Aurora, but can't personally vouch for that. Both are pretty good bargains in the used market (regularly see 3.5 Auroras w/under 40K miles not hit their reserves/struggle to break $10k on eBay).

Sounds like your car was heavily modified (OK, hacked) by the previous owner(s). Wouldn't make me comfortable, either.

I've toyed with the idea of getting a 2002 or 2003 Aurora cheap once my '98's paid for, but don't know for sure. Sat in a new GTO Saturday and liked it a lot, but I'd heard of the Monaro/surfed the Holden web site before Lutz even saw the car and got the idea to bring it over here. I wouldn't buy one at least until the next model year (wait for the inevitable second-year changes, though the GTO's only got a 3-year run in its present form - maybe it's time to buy low in year 3 before the American-made Sigma-Lite/VE one comes out).

--Robert

e_net_rider

I took a close look, and actually removed it. Seems to easy. If it doesn't come with a new Oring would be the only thing concerning seal. The price seems insane considering what the part is.

e_net_rider

Butchered indeed. Those owners/mechanics involved should have been thrown clear into a concrete abutment at 60 MPH while the car laughably coasted to a safe stop. Such people should never be allowed near a car, they are a major hazard.

e_net_rider

If you can post that TPS/Idle relearn I will appreciate it. I suspect I'll need it after changing the leaking FPS. The extra fuel to the intake and hard start warm may have the computer thrown out of wack for proper run. And then there are questions as to whether it would eventually relearn on its own.

blk97aurora

PCM has two circuits to cooling fan relays: ckt 335 is dark green wire to pin 86 of the low speed cooling fan relay, and ckt 473 is dark bue connecting to pin 86 of the series/parallel cooling fan relay. There are no other control circuits.

Pin 87a of the series/parallel relay is ckt 409 light blue connecting to the non-ground side of secondary cooling fan motor and to pin 30 of the high speed relay.

Each of the three relays has a pin 30. For the low speed relay, pin 30 is connected to the 60-amp fuse by red ckt 642. For the series/parallel relay, pin 30 is connected to one side of the primary cooling fan motor by white ckt 504. For the high speed relay, pin 30 is connected to pin 87a of the series/parallel relay and to the non-ground side of the secondary fan motor by light blue ckt 409.

There is a diode wired across the terminals of the primary fan motor. I do not know if this is the diode referenced in the SB.

I analyzed the wiring diagram and here is how it all works: 1) with neither ckt from the PCM activated, neither fan receives power; terminal A of the secondary fan motor is grounded directly to ground point G103, and terminal A of the primary fan motor is connecteded indirectly to terminal B of the secondary fan motor. Terminal B of the primary fan motor is open.

2) with PCM pin 32 (cooling fan 1 (low speed control)) activated, the low speed relay connects power from the 60-amp fuse to terminal B of the primary fan motor. Terminal A of the primary fan motor is connected to Terminal B of the secondary fan motor through the series/parallel relay. This puts the two fan motors in series so that both operate at 1/2 voltage (assuming the windings are the same).

3) with PCM pin 33 (cooling fan 2 (high speed control)) activated in addition to pin 32, Terminal A of the primary fan motor is grounded through the series/parallel relay, and terminal B of the secondary fan motor is connected to the 60-amp fuse through the high speed relay. Now both motors are connected in parallel and receive full voltage.

4) with PCM pin 33 activated without pin 32 activated, the primary fan motor receives no power and the secondary fan motor receives full power.

I believe scenarios 1, 2, and 3 are valid. I do not know about scenario 4.

This is one of those cases where a picture is worth 1000 words. I can mail you a copy of the diagram if you give me a mailing address.

Good luck.

e_net_rider

If you can post that TPS/Idle relearn I will appreciate it. I suspect I'll need it after changing the leaking FPS. The extra fuel to the intake and hard start warm may have the computer thrown out of wack for proper run. And then there are questions as to whether it would eventually relearn on its own.

e_net_rider

Much appreciated. There are no hidden circuits other than those in the PCM. I doubt scenario 4 as well, but I certainly don't know what the engineers were thinking. Oddly one of the motors is about $40 more than the other. Is the diode on the motor or the harness near the motor. Your diagram is probably printed after the SB and incorporates the production change.
So the 60 amp feeds 2 relays in Hi-speed parallel or 1 in Low-speed series. That still doesn't explain the deficiency of 10 guage wire on a 60 amp circuit. If I can lay my hands on an ampmeter I'll full that fuse and actuate the fans by turning the A/C on to determine the draw. Maybe it will be low enough that a lower amp (safer) fuse can be used. Sure would be a mess to burn up the wire harness from the fuse all the way to the firewall relay and beyond.

kayaman420

Check these old posts for the procedures.

#1088--TPS reset

#1121--Idle relearn

e_net_rider

Someone had posted about excessive rock when moving from fwd to rev. and suspected motor mount. I said me too. Well I took a close look and it appeared that maybe I was missing a small spacer (1/8"). Using a prybar I could move the mount back and forth on the single hold to frame bolt. Now suspect someone had the mount out and maybe pryed a small space to get it back in, but then neglected to properly tighten. So I loosened braces and tightend the main bolt. Retightened the braces and no more problem. If there is supposed to be a small shim on that bolt would someone please follow up with an appropriate response. Good Day.

e_net_rider

Removed the regulator and the 1/8" high spacer dropped into a hidden area of the manifold. Didn't see it go so I had a problem on reassembly. Fuel spraying everywhere. The fuel seeping from the vacuum port earlier may have not accumulated as thought by leakage through the diaphram. Shaking the fuel out of it and applying vacuum no leak was detected. So maybe the fuel was the result of condensation. I have found fuel in lower locations of lines before where the heat wasn't enough to boil it off. With fuel constantly bypassing through it, it probably doesn't get hot enough. Or its intermittant. So I will take a wait and see approach rather than drop $50 down a rathole. Any other suggestions to the hard warm start are welcome.

e_net_rider

Just commenting since I saw many posts concerning thermostats. I can tell you that this beast seems to be cold blooded. Takes forever to heat up. Never did seem to get fully warmed originally because someone had pulled the thermostat. Still takes a long time to make 180 with the GM OEM. And I think it never went above 200, but that was fans wired on full time. That should make little difference on the upper end as they come on when the A/C is on anyway. I may be wrong, but looking in the thermostat housing, it appears this engine may employ the bypass type of temperature control. Normally a closed thermostat means no circulation, but with this method the coolant constantly circulates in the engine and as the thermostat opens it circulates a portion and sends more to the radiator as temp rises.

blk97aurora

NT:

You're right about the 60-amp fuse feeding a 10 gauge circuit. I'm thinking that maybe the high fuse rating is to handle high start-up current for the fan motors; the 10-gauge wire is not a factor then since it does not have time to heat up. But, there is no protection for a longer-term situation where current may exceed 30 amps but not reach 60.

I think you are right about the diode having been added to the 1997 service manual, since the SB was for '95 production. The component locator states that the diode is in "body harness, between splices S141 and S143 near secondary cooling fan motor." Seems strange that it is near secondary fan instead of near primary fan; there is a diagram that supports that statement.

I found a 7-page diagnostic for the cooling fans in another section of my service manual. It verifies my analysis of operation. It includes parameters for operation.

Low speed operation occurs when:
1) coolant temp exceeds 229F
2) trans fluid temp exceeds 302F
3) a/c operation is requested

High speed operation occurs when:
1) coolant temp reaches 234F
2) trans fluid temp exceeds 304F
3) certain DTCs are set

I'm surprised that the temperature points for low-speed and high-speed operation are so close together.

blk97aurora

NT:

I omitted something from my last message. When I replaced FPR, I did not need to do anything to initiate a relearn. Either it wasn't needed or it was done automatically without any intervention by me.

2k1olds

I own a 2001 3.5. I have driven a classic, and while the V8 is king, this V6 is no slouch. The horses are 215 and the torque is 230. However, I think the 3.5 is 180 pounds lighter than the V8, so it is quicker than you would think. If you floor the V6 at 65-70, it will throw you back in the seat and before you know it you'll be pushing 100. You ought to test drive one and see what you think.

alcan

Click my name, then the link to my email address at www.batauto.com. Send me your email address and I'll send you the cooling fan schematic.

e_net_rider

Thanks for the temp points. Suspect anyone is needed, not all, to turn on the fans. Ergo, I probably have the suspected hidden problem that they were trying to mask with the wire butcher. Figured car needed relearn anyway as the idle seemed a little high, but don't know spec. Since the beast is so cold blooded I cranked her up and then proceded to clean myself up for the evening. By time I got back to the car, probably half hour, with air temp of 57 she had warmed to about 240 on the guage. When I reached the third rev up it had climbed to near 250. No Low Speed or High Speed fan. Damn. Now I think I boo-booed. I turned on the A/C. This seemed to add about 50 RPM to the set point and of course the fans kicked and temp rapidly dropped. You probably need a note added as to whether accessories are on or off during the entire procedure. I think your earlier post said the diode was located across primay, so the location was probably chosen just after the breakout from the main run for the secondary. I think large tubing was still used there and it probably accomidated the splices size wise. If I had designed, I probably would have put it in the fuse/relay box from the 60amp feed to ground. With todays high tech cars surge suppressors are probably needed. Actually to do the whole system properly, they should have a diode across any windings so that when the field collapses it doesn't cause a problem.

e_net_rider

I have notice a good bit of oil on top of the engine, down between the heads occaisonally. Hoping it may be a valve cover, not the head. With the fuel all over because of the FPR misadventure I washed it down. My drive is on a incline and after the warm up cycle I noticed a big oil spot. Hoping this is the pan gasket scenario. I saw earlier posts claiming the other problem takes a long time for the oil to show up. Is that a known fact?

e_net_rider

Oddly I don't see any price distinction for autobahn or not. Wouldn't an autobahn be worth more?
Dang just got back from a test run. She's not. About 66 at 2k and it cuts out just shy of 110.

95mushroom

Do you mean in used car value or new car? As the Autobahn was a $710 option if I remember correctly.

Yea the top-speed sprint is a very easy determinate. Mine (an Autobahn)was pulling very, very nicely to 125 till I had to back-off for traffic.

e_net_rider

Has anyone delved into the basis for this problem. Seeing some suggestions of FPR, is it likely that the pressure drops to a point that during hot soak she boils fuel away from the injectors. The fuel doesn't recondense then when the pump is on until the temperature drops sufficiently? If this is the case then the problem should be easily identifiable with a fuel pressure guage and monitored during the hot soak. With vapor in the injectors it takes a few revs to purge. Does this make sense??

e_net_rider

Looking at used values. Doesn't show any distinction at Edmunds. Mine seemed to being pulling nicely as well. Suddenly it cut like fuel was gone. Oh well, it's not a McClaren.

e_net_rider

What is the distinction that would make it a classic?

95mushroom

People here refer to the first generation (95-99) as the classic. The second gen. is the current or new style now, doesnt have a cool name yet other then 2k+.

alcan

Check fuel pressure:

The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve with fuel pump pressure on one side, and regulator spring pressure and intake manifold vacuum on the other side. The regulator's function is to maintain a constant pressure differential across the injectors at all times. The pressure regulator compensates for engine load by increasing fuel pressure as engine vacuum drops. The pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel rail.

The cartridge regulator is serviced as a separate component. When servicing the fuel pressure regulator, insure that the back-up O-ring, large O-ring, filter screen, and small O-ring are properly placed on the pressure regulator.

With the ignition On, and engine Off (zero vacuum), system fuel pressure at the pressure test connection should be 333-376 kPa (48-55 psi). If the pressure regulator supplies fuel pressure which is too low or too high, a driveability condition will result. Refer to Fuel System Pressure Test for information on diagnosing fuel pressure conditions.

e_net_rider

thanks for info. I've been shopping and they're aren't as many around as I'd like. Did find a 2001 with 1500 miles across town, but he wants 2K more than edmunds top price.

e_net_rider

No wonder the warm hard start is nasty to diagnose. Would the system normally maintain pressure during shut down?

alcan

Yep. Should hold for a while, too.

blk97aurora

In my experience with my '97, I believe the FPR-caused warm-start problem was entirely flooding -- culminating in a huge backfire that burned the underhood insulator. Fortunately the flame self-extinguished. Ironically I had purchased a replacement FPR earlier the same day, and I did not waste any time installing it. Cold starts were always instantaneous.

mike98c

There should not be any vapor or fuel on the vacuum side of the FPR period. The vacuum test has been tried before and found to be unreliable for diagnosing a diaphram leak in these FPRs unless the lak is quoite large. The fuel should not boil away even in an extreme overheating condition before shutdown. I almost didn't realize the old o-ring was still in the seat when I put the new FPR on with the new o-ring!

blk97aurora

I agree that the autobahn option should command a higher price in the used-car market. However, I believe that the number of people looking for used Auroras who even know about the option is miniscule. Obviously members of this discussion group are in the know. But the vast majority of Olds' intended buyers were looking for low-price luxury rather than performance. If Olds had put an autobahn badge on the car, the situation might be different. As it is, the question of how to identify autobahn comes up frequently on this board -- so it isn't an obvious differentiator.

mrdubya

autobahn was a $395 option. you went 110 on a test run?? crazy. dealership car?

easier ways to find out....

e_net_rider

Gee only 2 degrees on the tranny fluid. I didn't think any of the sensors were that tight on tolerance. From freezing to that point is less than 1% tolerance. Yet the fuel pressure can range from 48 to 55. That would be somewhere around 14%. I hope the variance is because of atmospheric pressure, but then that would be nice to know if you were troubleshooting. The MAP and computer would probably be compensating if that's the reason for the variance. Or maybe the injectors have some pressure compensation built in. I know diesels with mechanical pumps had something designed into the relationship of the springs and pintle. Just Comments.

e_net_rider

no my car. had to find out. Have had it over 100 before, but a little noisy. Picked open road multilane not used much this time of year. To the beach and water too damn cold this time of year. Only a couple of palm trees and the rest is salt marshes if you left the road. Little chance of hitting anything unless fish learn to walk. With this kind of accel it doesn't take long to get there. The only other time I was that fast was when I was a kid and kicked my 68 pony 302 4 barrel factory. That thing was spooky at that speed. Speedometer was pegged and she felt pretty light on the backend. The Aurora was sweet, but it did feel more like an jet. Plan to make New Mexico next May and I'd heard that piece west of Ft. Worth to Elpaso, 400+ miles was pretty much like the autobahn.
I did enjoy checking the anti-lock with the salesman riding shotgun though. Inspires me with a slogan for breaking the seat-belt law, "Break The Law, Break Your Face"

e_net_rider

Thanks for the inspiration. Even though I didn't have a tester, I checked for pressure at the test port after sitting all night. nada, zip. OK, I turn the key and pressurize the system. I can hear the pump cut out after a few seconds. Under an hour and I check it again. No fuel at the schrader valve. Just to make sure I turn the key long enough to hear the pump run and check again. Now my hands smell like ethyl. So I'm betting it might be the regulator. Since its not electronic, maybe I can take back if not the problem. And blk97, backfire all the way through the intake and airfilter, or did you have a fuel leak? Mine isn't flooding.

blk97aurora

N T:

The flame popped out the PCV fitting on the front valve cover. No fuel leaks (other than the FPR).

How do you know yours isn't flooding? If the FPR leaks, the leakage goes straight to the intake manifold through that little black hose.

mike98c

Hopefully the backfiring doesn't carbon up the EGR valve and ISC (idle speed control) needle and port like mine did when it backfired on my 98 Aurora at about 110,000 miles. The air cleaner was jet black on part of the panel and still white on part. That suprised me. I thought the backfire would coat the panel uniformly even though I know the inflowing air and contaminants don't.
Anyway I woould at least check and if necessary clean the throttle plate and bore.
I certainly agree with blk97aurora. The fuel has no where to go after it leaks except into the intake tract ans then into the combustion chambers, hence the backfires.

javidogg

Hello you all,

I want to see if anyone here know the bulb size that's behind the Trunk & Fuel release switch and Interior Lights & Twilight Sentinel switch also?

Any help on this is greatly appreciated.

I'm working once again on another project, I'll keep you all updated.

Thanks.

Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

blk97aurora

javidogg,

I tried many avenues for replacements. Olds dealer and ACDelco supplier both said they are not available separately and suggested buying new switch assemblies to get the lamps. Huh?

I ended up buying used switch assemblies off eBay to scavange the lamps (and to have spare switches). Also pulled a couple of them (clear not blue) from an extra HVAC control from my '86 Toro.

I really think they should be available from sub-miniature lamp suppliers (like Chicago) but I gave up trying to find the right item. If you're interested, I can dig up my research from a year or so ago.

Les

the_nacc

Hi guys

I am trying to program a second keyless remote for my 2001 3.5 litre.

First of all can anybody help me with the procedure so I can do it myself. I read a few posts on the subject, but none seem to be for a 2001.

Another dumb question is where is the DLC on the 2001 and what does it look like.

Looking forward to a reply

Thanks in advance

The Nacc

alcan

Document ID# 629994
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

Data Link Connector (DLC): Double row 16 terminal connector, lower left side of instrument panel
 

Document ID# 642973
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

Keyless Entry System Description and Operation

The keyless entry system is a supplementary vehicle entry device. Radio frequencies or discharged batteries may disable the system.

Keyless entry allows you to operate the following components:
The door locks
The rear compartment lid release
The illuminated entry lamps
The panic alarm (instant alarm)

The keyless entry system has the following main components:
The transmitters
The remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR)
When you press a button on a transmitter, the transmitter sends a signal to the remote control door lock receiver. The RCDLR interprets the signal and activates the requested function via a class 2 message over the serial data line.

Unlock Driver Door Only
Momentarily press the UNLOCK button in order to perform the following functions:
Unlock the driver door only.
Illuminate the interior lamps for approximately 25 seconds or until the ignition is turned ON.
Flash the exterior lights (if selected ON in personalization).
Disarm the content theft deterrent (CTD) system.
Recall the memory seat and the memory mirror positions for that driver.
Unlock All Doors (Second Operation)

Momentarily press the UNLOCK button a second time (within 2 seconds of the first press) in order to perform the following functions:
Unlock the remaining doors.
Illuminate the interior lamps for approximately 15 seconds or until the ignition is turned ON.
Flash the exterior lights (if selected ON in personalization).
Chirp the horn (if selected ON in personalization).
Recall the last radio station for that driver.
Lock All Doors

Press the LOCK button in order to perform the following functions:
Lock all of the doors.
Immediately turn off the interior lamps.
Flash the exterior lights (if selected ON in personalization).
Chirp the horn (if selected ON in personalization).
Arm the content theft deterrent (CTD) system.
Rear Compartment Lid Release
If the vehicle transaxle is in PARK or NEUTRAL and the ignition is in the OFF position, a single press of the rear compartment release button will open the rear compartment lid. The interior lamps will not illuminate.

Alarm
A single press of the panic button performs the following functions:
Illuminates the interior lamps.
Pulses the horn.
Flashes the head lamps for 30 seconds or until the following conditions occur:
The panic button is pressed again.
The ignition switch is turned to the RUN position with a valid key.
The vehicle is unlocked with the key.
Keyless Entry Personalization
The exterior lamps and horn chirp may be personalized for two separate drivers as part of the remote activation verification feature. For mode descriptions and programming instructions, refer to Driver Personalization in Personalization.

Rolling Code
The keyless entry system uses rolling code technology. Rolling code technology prevents anyone from recording the message sent from the transmitter and using the message in order to gain entry to the vehicle. The term "rolling code" refers to the way that the keyless entry system sends and receives the signals. The transmitter sends the signal in a different order each time. The transmitter and the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) are synchronized to the appropriate order. If a programmed transmitter sends a signal that is not in the order that the RCDLR expects, then the transmitter is out of synchronization. This occurs after 256 presses of any transmitter button when it is out of range of the vehicle.

Automatic Synchronization
The keyless entry transmitters do not require a manual synchronization procedure. If needed, the transmitters automatically resynchronize when any button on the transmitter is pressed within range of the vehicle. The transmitter will operate normally after the automatic synchronization.

e_net_rider

picked the borg-warner which is frequently the same as the GM. Haven't verified the hot start yet, but it sure as heck made some other changes. The roar coming out the back of the pipes with full foot is much quieter. I actually hear the intake now. Down side it now seems to have the performance of the other 96 I test drove.

javidogg

In Reply To:

Javi,

I tried many avenues for replacements. Olds dealer and ACDelco supplier both said they are not available separately and suggested buying new switch assemblies to get the lamps. Huh?

I ended up buying used switch assemblies off eBay to scavange the lamps (and to have spare switches). Also pulled a couple of them (clear not blue) from an extra HVAC control from my '86 Toro.

I really think they should be available from sub-miniature lamp suppliers (like Chicago) but I gave up trying to find the right item. If you're interested, I can dig up my research from a year or so ago.

Les

____________________________________________________

Hey Les,

Thanks for the heads up, well after some surfing on the web, I ran into a guy that makes his own LED retro fiting into a socket style bulb like the one we use on our Aurora's.

So I'm currently working with him on this.

We'll see how it turns out.

Also that's kind of wack, how GM and AC Delco and the Olds Dealer recommend it buying a new part to replace them tiny bulbs.

I just wanted to know the bulb size for that part for now.

We'll see.

Peace.

blk97aurora

javidogg,

The package designation for these bulbs is "T-1 neo wedge."

the_nacc

Thanks for the excellent explanation on the operation of the Keyless Remote for my 2001 Aurora 3.5. Much appreciated.

Can the programming be done without going to a dealer?

If so, how does one go about doing the programming by himself?

Thanks in Advance

The Nacc

e_net_rider

How small are these bulbs? I haven't had mine apart but wonder if I may have ran across something similar. There are some very small bulbs used inside tubing to light pathways in aircraft as an emergency stay close to the floor and follow to the exit lighting. Also Ford has some very tiny bulbs.. I ran across them many years ago. They are so small they put them in a tiny plastic to enable install and removal. Used for backlighting the clock and were about $10 back then.

blk97aurora

The glass bulb is about 0.12" diameter; the plastic base is 0.31" diameter, and the entire package is about 0.33" long.

e_net_rider

As posted earlier, My fans didn't seem to be working as predicted by the chart from blk97. Instead it goes into hi speed when the A/C is requested. Verified by monitoring the hi-speed PCM control line which goes low when the A/C is on and stays so during compressor cycling.

e_net_rider

Without seeing a picture it would be hard to tell, but it sounds much like the bulb mentioned earlier for a clock. Are the same bulbs used for the controls on the steering wheel? The one for the fan on this vehicle may be out.