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Volvo Maintenance and Repair



  • We are getting off the subject of the discussion.
    The initial question was: Is the jolt in the steering wheel during the braking on the wet surface, while car maintains perfectly straight caused by DSTC?

    The answer is - Yes, and I do not think it is debatable.

    It is like saying that when someone intentionally touches something with his hand, that movement is not a product of that someone will, because, while sleeping, hands can move "independently" of that person consciences.

    Remember, that the person who asked the question has stated that the car has DSTC and it was on.

    And when thinking of dependency, remember your own body. The ECU is the "brains", the ABS is the "hand", the yaw sensor is the "eye", but DSTC is a whole body.
     Yes, you can detach the hand from the body, but will it be the same?
  • Honestly, Rob, I have only one concern - I am glad and you, by some reason is sorry.
    Please do not be.
    I am not confused.
    So, let's be happy :-)
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    DSTC had nothing to do w/ your straight line snow traction. That was the STC part of the system. Yes, DSTC incorporates STC. DSTC is a yaw control program. Sorry to be splitting hairs.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info. Can you give me more detail on this connection? Where is it located and what does it look like?
  • The connector is behind the gauge combination. You would have to pull the entire combination outward. I did figure out how to it two years but can not remember all the details now. It was not too difficult to do. Once the combination is out, you will see the connector. It's a "regular" mufti-prone automotive plug that connects the combination to the rest of the electrical system. It has a latch, and that latch is supposed to ensure some tension, that keeps the male/female contact groups together, but over the time, the latch loosens, and the electrical connectivity is lost or become not reliable.

    I had sprayed the contacts with the electronic contact cleaner - available in any hardware store - and then, tied the male and female part of the connector together, crisscrossed over the latch to ensure better connection. It did cure the problem.

    My problem was that once I start the car, the speedometer will work, but over sudden, the gauge will start oscillating from the read to zero, and eventually just fall to the zero mark. It would operate again, if you give the combination a nice kick with your fist. That drove me to the conclusion that the problem is electrical and is related to the loosen connection.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    I have removed the instrument cluster and cleaned the contacts on the back of the speedometer. It still doesn't work. The odometer/tripmeter doesn't work either. It appears that the speedometer and odometer/tripmeter are electronic, since there isn't a cable from the trans to the instrument cluster. Can anyone give me more info on this? Can I use a volt ohm meter on the speedometer wires to see if there is a signal? If so, what should I see on the VOM? I would believe that if there were a signal on the wires that the instrument cluster was bad. If no signal on the wires what could it be and how can I test?
    Any info is greatly appreciated!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,886
    Well, again, I'm not all too familiar with this vehicle in particular, but on other vehicles I've worked on with electronic units, the sender at the transmission can go bad.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • juliejulie Posts: 2
    Has anyone have problems with their top? I was putting my top down and I heard a loud CRACK sound. I looked over the right side of there is a flap that went down but as it was doing this it tore the leather on the panel. I took it back to the dealer and they said that they have never had this happen, only if I was trying to put the top down while I was driving. I told the service person, how is it possible to do that when you cleary have to put the brakes up before the top would go down. They said the hindge had to be replaced and that they would have to replace the panel, but since the vehicle is the latest model the panel is on back order for 4-5 wks. So I am still waiting.
  • chazmaticchazmatic Posts: 6
    Hello Volvo people. I have a 1994 960 Wagon w/82K on her. Everytime I start her up the lifters are loud. Most of the time, it goes away when the engine is warmed up. And sometimes one or two are still clicking softley. A friend of mine thinks it's the injectors. When you put your hand on the long bar where the injectors are under. It seens to becoming from them. Is this possible ? I've never heard of loud (clicking) injectors. The engine itself runs smooth as silk. Any help would be great. Chazmatic.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    its the lifters and its normal.

    The only injectors that I could ever hear were the Bosch electro-mechanical injectors that Mercedes and Porsche used to use.
  • ksargentksargent Posts: 31

    I was hoping that someone could help me. My stepdaughter has 940 (or 960) turbo with 130K miles or so. She was driving when all of the dashboard warning lights came on. The oil was okay and the temp was ok. It drove so she got it home. Today she drove it - and there were no lights. However it died on her and she couldn't get it going again. Any ideas on what this might indicate?

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,886
    Not sure I could help no matter what, but, just in case, we really need more info. ALL of the lights came on? But the car was still running fine? That in itself, I think, is very odd. So now it died? While she was driving down the road? Or was she stopped at a light? I can only think, based on the present information, that its some sort of electrical malfunction. I would almost think a computer harness came loose. It would account for this erratic behavior. I would check all your harnesses and check all your fuses before going any further.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • K9LeaderK9Leader Posts: 112
    I just picked up a 1993 940 sedan last week as an extra family car that my 16yo son will be driving. It's in great shape with only 97K miles and a lot of nice features.

    I have noticed, though, there is no lighting of the gear shifter settings (P R N D 2 1). Does this car just not have lighting there or is it burned out? I haven't had time yet to examine it closely, i.e., start disassembling and exploring, so I thought I would query experienced owners. Thanks for any assistance!

    --K9Leader, Newark DE
    2000 Subaru Outback Ltd. Wagon (50K)
    1998 Toyota Sienna (100K)
    1994 Lincoln Mark VIII (105K)
    1993 Volvo 940 (97K)
  • I bought a 97 850 GLT two years ago, ran beautifully, regular maintenance maintained. now I am experiencing problems such as AC ($1200), ABS ($600), and other major repairs totalling approx. $3000. Is this normal? I understand that Volvo repairs can be costly but is this normal?...thanks for your advice
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,886
    how many miles does it have? what other major repairs? The ABS/Tracs problem is normal on these cars, unfortunately (but, with a little research and elbow grease, this may have been fixed for $130 if it was a matter of replacing your module). The A/C ... well, depends on what the problem was, but I can't even count how many people I know who've had to have their A/C fixed, regardless of manufacturer.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • shishishishi Posts: 6
    since we purchased the C70 in February two of the rims have cracked and needed to be replaced. The Volvo tech mentioned that the 17" alloys were not meant to be driven in New England weather/road conditions. From what I have been able to gather from other messages, changing to 16" steel rims will not only solve this problem but improve handling especially in winter. Is this true? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,886
    switching to 16s will NOT improve handling and the only way it will improve winter driving is with a set of snow tires (which you could get on the 17s anyway, so it doesn't make a difference).

    Personally, I'd attribute the problem to weak wheels (unless you're really plowing into those potholes at full speed). However, 16s will help cut down on the problem since it will allow you to have more sidewall absorbing the bumps, and it will soften the ride with the right tires. But, they don't necessarily need to be steel. The steel won't crack, but they can still bend.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • shishishishi Posts: 6
    Thanks for the reply. Since I posted this message we lost another rim AND two tires had blown sidewalls. That makes 2 rims and 3 tires in the past 2,000miles under normal (NO potholes) driving. I don't really think that is reasonable. Am going to see if Volvo can take the car back for another model. Anybody have a contact at Volvo who they felt was reasonable to work with?
  • Did you try your dealer and 16" wheels?

    I would make that Volvo tech you quoted, responsible for his own comments and replace the rims and the tires.

    However, I would re-evaluate my driving style too, if I would be you.

    I have driven my S80 on 16" alloy rims to the Mammmoth lake (ski resort) for total more than 2000 miles of snow/winter/mountain driving and never ever have blown tires or cracked rims.
  • Can someone help me learn the mileage at which the timing chain on a 2001 2.4T is to be changed? The car does about 18,000 mile a year, 50/50 between interstate for distances of less than 15 miles and city/suburban driving.

This discussion has been closed.