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Comments
-mike
I thought you had said if the CEL is blinking that I should not drive the car.
Mark
-mike
The dealership GM where I had mine done told me that SoA will not usually authorize the other head be pulled unless there is a clear indication of leakage. I was told by the tech that 90%+ of the cases involve just cyl #4 (drivers firewall on our cars). An independent shop owner nearby (who in a previous life worked for Subi NY-NJ) said the same thing.
Steve
Did you notice improved shifting in the Legacy after the tranny fluid change, or was just the binding problem improved?
I don't have much of a binding problem (although I have noticed it a little) but it seems like my 4EAT's shifts are getting a little harsher. They've never been very smooth, but upshifts 1-2 and 2-3 seem pretty hard, sometimes it feels as if the car got bumped from behind.
I'm thinking it's time to change the fluid. Any particular brand you recommend?
utahsteve
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze730qe/Head_gasket_replacement.html
And here:
http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html
Someone asked about the dealership price of $2200. That's slightly high, but not unheard of. Independent shops are usually subsantially cheaper. Some people DIY for very little cost and a lot of labor.
Sorry to hear about the problems. Hope mine fares better.
utahsteve
-mike
Geeze, glad I had already done the front & rear diffs and transmission (5 spd), and the spark plugs before it got cold. The air filter is an K&N. This has a few more miles to go before it gets cleaned.
The dealer will also replace the coolant, drive belts, and gas line filter. Geeze, I may have to find work to pay this off. Now, if it would only get warm again (-9 this morning, -25+ wind chill). Ah, marvelous Minnesota in January
MNSteve
Regards,
Matt
I have a '97 w/ 42k on it, and hers is a '96 with 52k on it. Both bulletproof 2.2 Legacies. Ironically, hers shifted more smoothly when I drove it to evaluate the shudder - under all conditions including full throttle upshifts and downshifts. Ironic because mine has had the tranny fluid changed twice, is newer and has less miles.
I did not drive it long enough to note any change in shifting behavior before our Christmas trip ended and I returned home. My tranny has always exhibited an occasional harshness on mid/high downshifts. It is quick to choose the lower gear, but the gear engages with a "just got rear ended" harshness as you aptly described. Happens a couple times a month before the vehicle is warmed fully.
it worried me when I bought the car at 23k, so I changed out the fluid with no change at all. I drive it fairly aggressively and there has been no change at all or other sign of tranny problem. HTH.
DougM
Tires are the only thing that's between the road and the car/you. Your car's performance/handling is dependent on them, so spent a little more
-Dave
I second the motion on spending a bit more for good tires.
We tend to see a car as a big thing sitting on the ground, forgetting that it has just four small patches that actually contact the ground. These patches are about 6 - 8 inches wide and 10 - 12 inches long. Think about all 4,000+ lbs of car, you ***and your family*** riding around on those 2 to 3 square feet. With tires, as with everything in life, you get what you pay for. I've been very happy with the prices, selection, and service at Costco. If I didn't have a local Costco, Tirerack.com is a great resource and would be my next choice (and since I live in the same town as one of Tirerack's warehouses, might be able to work out a pickup/no shipping charges deal).
I put new Michelin MXV4s from Costco on my '00 OBW Ltd. last spring, and am looking forward to trying them in the snow this winter.
Good luck!
--K9Leader
2000 OBW Ltd, 44k miles, Michelin MXV4s
1998 Toyota Sienna, 92k, Michelin X1s(?)
1994 Lincoln Mark VIII, 104k, Michelin MXV4s
Toboggan: IIRC, mine had the same oil leak at similar mileage. It's a common problem.
Another vote for not skimping on tires. The cost per mile for good tires is very low. I went with the same Michelins that were originally on my OB and have been very happy with them, FWIW.
utahsteve
Just as an FYI- Flemington just called and said the coil was bad. He said that was causing the misfiring. They are replacing that (under extended warranty) and the spark plug wires as well. Unfortunately the wires are not covered under the extended warranty. Oh well. Hopefully I should be driving my car by tonight.
I'll check with AZP in 7k miles or so for the 60k check up.
Mark
-mike
Paisan, Inc: Car and Computer consultants!
Mark
-mike
MNSteve
Also, I have the extended warranty with a $100 deductible: are they covered?
Craig
DaveM
I'm pleased to hear you were successful in eliminating the piston slap. My 2003 Legacy is getting two new pistons on Tuesday to correct the cold weather piston slap.
Did you have two pistons or all 4 pistons replaced?
Jim
Thanks for the reply. This is my second Legacy in 4 years, so you can presume I am generally pleased with the Subaru brand.
I hope two new pistons will resolve the piston slap. It seems odd to me that SOA will pay to remove the whole engine and then replace just two pistons instead of all four. (Although I must admit that the piston slap sound seems to be comming from only one cylinder).
Jim
DaveM
Part / 1stSub price / List price
Fr rotor / $57 / $75
Rr rotor / $57 / $75
Fr pads / $60 / $80
Rr pads / $55 / $72
You'll need to add approx 10% to the 1stSub price for shipping & handling, but you'll save on sales tax unless you live in their state (Washington).
My observations: 1) Front rotors are vented, the rears are not. I'm surprised the rr rotors aren't cheaper. 2) Last week due to poor planning, I had to purchase parts at my local dealer. Parts were HIGHER than the list price given on the 1stSubaru website. Overall I figured I paid 35% higher locally. Fortunately, I paid with SubaruBucks from my credit card.
Generally, your mechanic will charge list for the parts.
Jim
Many years ago I went in to buy an A/C compressor clutch and asked if I could get the mechanics discount. They said sure and I've been getting it ever since. :-)
They'll even give me the discount part price if they do the work. I need to figure out how to get a discount on labor though. :-(
DaveM
-mike
As to my fuel guage not working accurately I was told the sensor is in the fuel pump and I decided that it was not worth the expense to have it repaired since the performance of the vehicle has not been affected
Craig
-mike
Get new rotors. Brakes are the most important item on the car, well maybe 2nd after tires.
-juice
Since humans build the cars (at least parts of them .. lol) .. there will be mistakes from time to time ... but that's true of any make/model ..
(my 2)
I had a 00 Outback (52,000 miles) and now have an 02 LL Bean Outback (35,000 miles). Both have been great cars. I am very happy with the LL Bean, and plan on keeping the car for a long time. It's pretty much been flawless thus far.
Craig
Len
Regards,
Matt
-mike
My Sable had the "handling suspension" which meant that it was one really stiff ride. It did however outhandle a regular Taurus/Sable by a wide margin. Heard that people with softer suspensions had lots of problems with handling.
FWIW
Larry
Robert
Greg
Karl
I have a 2000 OBW with 53000 miles. While I have had a few problems with my car, I still feel it is a great vehicle. In 2000 - 2001 Suabru had some problems with the head gasket and brake rotors. They fully acknowledge the problem, and performed all work under warranty. While it was a pain in the neck, it is a mechanical creation, thus prone to problems. After all, nothing is perfect. For all that, the service and vehicle is great, and I plan on being a Subaru customer for a long time.
Mark
'02 Legacly L, 17k miles, out of pocket expenses for repairs: $0.
That would make the topic pretty boring. )
-juice
Greg
My original tires lasted about 40K miles, and the A2s were rated at 50K, IIRC. There was no change in my driving style between tires.
I must qualify my experience by saying that I don't METICULOUSLY check and maintain the tires, (although I do visually check them periodically and add air as needed). I HAVE had the car serviced as per the Subaru timetables. The Tire Rack discussions on this tire mostly agree with my experience.
What I need is a tire that will perform well in all conditions (especially Central NY snow!) but doesn't need to be babied.
Any suggestions?