Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

joyridea4 · January 2002

I recently noticed that my auto dimming rear view mirror would not always dim down when lights approached from the rear. I thought there was a problem with the mirror. I cleaned the sensor, and there still was a problem.
I finally removed the rear seat center head rest and the problem went away.
Second problem I have noticed is that when the passenger puts down the sun shade on the front passenger side it hits the rear view mirror. I have to move the mirror to use the sun shade.

ateixeira · January 2002

There was a discussion about this in the Legacy/Outback threads, and they recommended moving the rear view mirror down a bit (there are two elbows, so you can re-position it).

-juice

subearu · January 2002

it pivots not only at the mirror connection point, but also at the window point.

-Brian

joyridea4 · January 2002

Thanks for the info. I will check it out.
Don

mmassucci · January 2002

I have a 2001 L.L. Bean Outback. The car surges when you take your foot off of the brake. The climate control is off so it isn't the air conditioner, which is what the service man claimed was causing the problem. Also, over the last month I have been experiencing difficulty starting the car. It doesn't always happen, but here are the symptoms: turn the key and engine cranks but doesn't start; press gas pedel once and turn key - doesn't start; press gas several times while turning key - doesn't start; press gas continuously until engine begins to fire and eventually starts. The service man said this was normal. I don't think so!

subearu · January 2002

Does the hard starting happen after the vehicle is warmed up or been driven for a while? It almost sounds like vapor lock.

Not sure about the surging. Does it idle smoothly or fluctuate a lot?

If possible, try another dealer service area. You can also call the subaru 800 number and log a call.

-Brian

ateixeira · January 2002

Some of the early production cars had bad ECUs, and it sounds like that may be afflicting yours. If your dealer isn't responsive, try another one. H6 owners on these threads have noted improvements after the ECU was swapped out.

Also, do call the 800 number an open up a case number, and if they still aren't responding let us know and we'll put you in touch with SoA directly (you need the case number first).

It'll get resolved, just be persistent.

-juice

subearu · January 2002

lindasubaru · January 2002

On Jan 04 I posted a message about my "96 Legacy Outback stalling. Juice suggested a number of remedies--we had the spark plugs and wires replaced last year--mechanic has also done throtte service. Last week the dealer replaced the ignition coil thinking that was the problem. The car is still stalling--same pattern -- stalling when run cold and going up incline or hills. This morning I warmed it up for ten minutes and no problem. Should I have to warm the car up every morning--what else could be wrong?

ateixeira · January 2002

The only other thing I can think of is the gas tank's pick up is towards the front, so try to keep the tank 1/4 full or more. Otherwise it could slosh around and pick up air in the fuel lines, causing the hesitation.

Try the fuel filter, too, which takes only minutes to change. Have them check the air filter while they're at it.

Just a guess. Warm ups are not a bad idea, but should not be required.

-juice

needut · January 2002

The specs on my wife's 2002 Outback Ltd say 40+ inches of legroom...sounds like plenty but I'm having difficulty getting comfortable in front passenger seat. I own a Saturn (which is known for being pretty small inside) and I don't have this problem. I only have a 32 inch inseam so what gives? Anyone know of seat mods that can give me another inch or two?

ateixeira · January 2002

Yes, someone here modified the seat track so it would move farther back. Though is was the driver's side, I bet it would work on the passenger side as well.

-juice

mmassucci · January 2002

Brian, The hard starting happens when the engine is cold.

Juice, Can the ECU be tested to see if it is bad or do they just need to change it?

The service manager said he would go on a test ride with me so that he could experience the problem first hand. I was hoping to have a handle on what the problem may be before I went in. I was also hoping to find out if other owners have experience the same problems.

Thanks you both for your insight.

-Mark

ateixeira · January 2002

I don't know how they would test the ECU.

You can try to reset it yourself, just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes (engine cold), then reconnect and start her up, and allow it to idle until it's warm. Your first tank will have lousy mileage, but after that it'll be back to normal (hopefully).

But try the ride-along if they're willing to do that.

-juice

needut · January 2002

Juice - Seat rails don't "appear" that easy to modify...do you know the time frame of the previous seat mod. discussion....I can go search the archives (maybe).

Thanks - ETH

ateixeira · January 2002

I was a couple of weeks ago. Not more than a month. You can't search, but go to Legacy/Outback and ask again or go back a few posts.

-juice

nowakj66 · January 2002

Needut -- As far as legroom goes I "needut" too!

:-)

I beleive an engineer on the board related some sucess and was going to post some photos of how the fix was accomplished. For me, this is too much screwing around if it really does not fit you.

At 6 foot 4, passenger side Outback front seat leg room has long been a bug-a-boo for me too. I have not bought my LL Bean yet but at the moment feel like I can live with it and hope to buy soon. If I felt I had to modify the seat rails for the car to fit, I would not do it.

The problem for me anyway was the glove box interfering with my shins.

In any event -- if you have yet to buy the Subaru wagon, rather than udergoing this engineering project, I would seriously consider the VW Passat wagons. Their front leg room is amazing and there is plenty of passenger and driver seat travel.

The VW gives something away in reliability when compared to the Subaru, and if you really NEED AWD you have to buy a 4Motion. But the VW has its own charms and is well built and reviewed by the press.

Don't buy a project. Maybe next redesign the Subaru will fit! Germany has you covered right now.

nowakj66 · January 2002

Reading back -- it sounds like your wife already owns the car so Passat-ville may not be an option . . . . .

ateixeira · January 2002

Well, the idea is you let someone else screw around, then learn from their mistakes so you get it right the first time. :-)

Try the Forester. A few really tall owners have fit pretty well. Headroom is amazing.

-juice

eric102 · January 2002

I was the one that did the seat rail mods to the drivers side seat and am planing on doing the passenger side soon (still not at the top of the to do list). The passenger side won't be as easy, it will probably require some new notches be cut on the sides of the rails for the adjuster and the stops moved. I haven't pulled the seat yet so I don't know for sure, maybe if I get lucky it will only require drilling a few holes like the drivers side. I will post my results when I do it.

Eric

ateixeira · January 2002

Thanks Eric.

-juice

nowakj66 · January 2002

Juice -- I think he owns the car already.

mmassucci · January 2002

Thanks Juice.

-Mark

gazzerdc · January 2002

Survey for those of you that had the shims put on the squealing brakes...how many trips did you have to make before they finally did it? My O/B began squealing at 875 miles. I've got 3K on it now and it squeals everytime I back up. They cleaned the brakes and said [it]didn't warrent the shims. yet. I mentioned this chat room and told them I didn't want to make five trips. So....what does it take to to get them to do it? Other than camping out....

elm1 · January 2002

I have a 2000 outback station wagon. I sometimes notice what smells like anti-freeze or something burning when the heater is on. This does not happen all the time. I've been keeping an eye on the coolant level. I've noticed a slight decline. Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks

ateixeira · January 2002

Sorry, have not heard of any similar problem. Maybe the dealer can pressure test the system? Just a guess.

-juice

eric102 · January 2002

Sounds like the heater core or a hose attached to it has a slight leak. My Ford truck did that once, had to replace the core.

Eric

duckglr · January 2002

Hi All, I'm a first time subaru owner, and I just love this car. However, I'm a little worried about a noise coming from the clutch. The car is 6 months old with 7,600 miles on it- mostly highway. Occasionally when I disengage the clutch I'll hear a rubbing or whirring kind of noise. It goes away once the clutch is engaged. It doesn't happen every time I push in the clutch and if i do hear it, i've just gotten into the habit of releasing and pressing the clutch in again until it's gone. Often i hear it when the brake and the clutch are pressed at the same time. I usually notice it while stopped and shifting into first, or while downshifting into first or neutral when coming up to a stop- especially while slowing and turning into a parking spot. I've driven standard transmission vehicles without any problems for the past 15 years. Can anyone offer any advice to me? Thanks so much!

lindasubaru · February 2002

I posted two messages #23 and #58--have had my car back for a thorough diagnostic test and the mechanic is sure that the problem is the lash adjusters.They will have to do a major job-taking the engine out, taking the head off, doing a valve job and replacing the lash adjusters. They also found two oil leaks--rear main seal and left valve cover gasket--total damage will be around Canadian $1500-$1800! Has anyone had any similar experience or comment -- the car is a 1996 with 130,000 km

mikenk · February 2002

On my OB VDC (12k miles), I have had to add a little coolant several times, usually after long trips. It is down now about an inch in the reservoir after a 3500 mile trip. The dealer had checked it for a leaks and found none. Has anyone else had this experience? It is not loosing much, but it does not seem right.

Would welcome any thoughts?

thanks
Mike

lindasubaru · February 2002

Hi there--I was hoping to hear from someone re posting #78-
I have to take the car in for repair soon. I was looking through past repair receipts and found one for Sept 29/2000--two months after I bought the car--I had it in for the same problem back then (at 91,000km). Is it possible that the lash adjusters were malfunctioning for over a year and a half? Juice any comment--
thanks

ateixeira · February 2002

Linda: a few folks were just discussing oil leaks under Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair. It's a topic under Owner's Clubs, then Subaru Crew.

To be honest, the price sounds reasonable given the amount of work you are describing.

Do mention that the symptoms appeared early, and that may have been under warranty at the time. See if they'll work with you, perhaps split the costs. Or call SoC, and see if they'll share the cost, maybe pay just for the parts?

-juice

johnmei · February 2002

Have a 2002 model. Live in Maine. Engine quiet even when first starting on a very cold morning. Had first oil change at Subaru at 1000miles. Took a trip down to Savannah, GA where I presently am located. Have 1800 miles since the initial oil change. Now, when running engine first thing in the morning, it sounds pretty bad almost like a diesel knock. Lasts 5-10 minutes even after engine temperature indicates engine warm. Eventually the knock disappears. Am wondering if the problem is low oil level??!!Checked the engine oil level one morning before starting the vehicle. Dip stick showed it was a quart low; however after I cleaned the dip stick and immediately inserted and withdrew it again, it showed that the oil level was "full". I recall reading somewhere on the net that Subaru dipsticks were too long or they weren't giving an accurate oil level reading. Believe it or not when I tried to find the local Subaru dealer in the Yellow Pages here, the notation read, "Contact Subaru in Jacksonville, Florida"!

Could use some sage advice and/or solution.
Thanks-John

goettsd · February 2002

I have a 2000 Outback Wagon 5sp and I am on my 3rd clutch (original and 2 replacements). They have all been replaced under warranty, but it was still a pain. I had to get a hold of the regional service manager for the 2nd clutch (took about 2 months). He said it was a problem with the flywheels and that the problem was fixed, but if you are getting the shuddering on a 02 then apparently the problem is still there. I like this car alot, but I will NEVER get another Subaru 5sp again, if I even get another Subaru. A clutch should last longer than 17k miles.

gazzerdc · February 2002

Apparently I'm one of only two lucky owners in the Washington DC area experiencing this problem. When I turn, left or right, occasionally I get a vibration that comes up through the floorboard and lasts through the turn. The dealership has another customer that had the problem; they think it's the power steering whateveroranother. But nothing to worry about. That's not it. I didn't buy a new car to have an intermittent vibration. Any one have a "fix" on this one? Subaru still has no answer. The car is a 2002 with (now) 4000 miles on it. This started at about 150 miles. Thanks :-)

fudd2be · February 2002

Sorry for the cross post, but it seemed appropriate.

On my recent (last weekend 2/8-2/10) trip to Long Island from Rochester, NY my check engine light came on while on Long Island (Lon Gisland?) and the engine started idling REAL rough and hesitated badly upon acceleration. Once up to highway speed it was ok, though not great.

I put in some dry gas and premium fuel thinking it could be something like that. I was able to (I had no choice) drive back to Rochester while the CE light was still on. I brought it in yesterday to my dealer, Van Bortel.

The CE light was a misfire in cylinder 1 and changing the plug wire had no effect. So they told me they had to replace the fuel injector, but recommended I do all four at the same time. I told them to do the work (what choice do I have?) The cost came to a little over $500.

At 38000 this seems like a strange failure. I am one to admit if I did something wrong, but I am concerned because I don't think I did anything wrong! I only use brand name gas (usually 87 octane). The only thing I have never done before is put additives in the fuel tank (like dry gas). Should I be?

I was told this is not covered under the powertrain warranty. Is there anything that can be done from Subaru's standpoint, or is this 'my fault'? How can I prevent this from happening again? My wife's '98 civic has been operated from the same gas and impeccable maintenance for 4 years with no problems.

I have to pick up and pay for the car today.

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

-Howard

p0926 · February 2002

Howard- Sure sounds like part of the powertrain to me. I suggest you call 800-SUBARU3 and let them check into it. Even if the powertrain warranty doesn't cover it, since 38K is just barely out of the basic 3/36, I would hope that Subaru would at least chip in part of the repair cost.

-Frank P.

croc · February 2002

I had my windshield replaced-bad factory seal-air conditioner condenser replaced,clutch and flywheel replaced twice,heat shield for exhaust replaced and the short block replaced. This was all in the space of 57,000 kms. I just traded in on a Toyota and will never go back. The only positive is that Subaru of Canada is a first class outfit-I guess they have to be selling the product they do.

ateixeira · February 2002

Sounds like you got the one that was built at 5pm on Friday. It's rare to see that many problems on one car. Bummer, though.

Good luck with Toyota. They just admitted to having 3.3 million engines with a serious oil sludge problem, and at first they were denying it (unlike your experience with SoC).

It affects the Camry, Solara, Avalon, RX, ES, Sienna, Celica, and Highlander. What did you buy?

-juice

paramedic99 · February 2002

Couple of things I would recommend. First despite low mileage check the fuel filter, air cleaner etc. Start with the easy stuff. A dealer would pop it on the diag. PC and see whats happening but you dont easily have that luxury. Consider the climate change. You are starting the car from cold engine but not from cold climate so this should not be happening (course you know that). It is unlikely that a new 02 is either burning oil or leaking it and even more unlikely that low oil would cause this problem. Higher temperature would be a more common symptom of low oil early on.

If all those checks fail. Consider this option. When you first start the engine its rough and knocks at that point the onboard computer may be adjusting the timing, fuel mixture etc to compensate for the "problem". Thats why I suggest starting with the small stuff on a long drive you could easily have picked up junk in the air cleaner or some sediment into the fuel tank. Check the plugs as well could have one thats cracked, bad wire etc. All options even new.

Good luck.

bburger95 · February 2002

Our '97 GT with 37K miles has what sounds like valve tap for first 10-15 minutes. Per dealer over phone, SOA said it was from solid valve lifters in '96-'97 models, but no fix suggested. When I took car to dealer service, they said they couldn't hear it. (I'll follow up on this.) Independent service guy said try 5-30w oil. Per cartalk.com, noise caused by oil draining down from valve lifters, leaving air which makes noise until oil works back into valve lifter chambers, and this can cause damage to other engine parts. Anyone else have this problem? Any solution? Thanks...

ateixeira · February 2002

My Miata has valve tapping, and our 626 is even worse. The consensus had been that as long as it quiets down after warm up, it's OK.

But try a thinner oil, or maybe a better flowing synthetic.

-juice

cptplt · February 2002

my 98 GT has had it since it was new, goes away after warming up. experienced sube mechanic I use says its no big deal. if your noise is new though after 37K that may be a different story.

sunburn · February 2002

My 94 Legacy has a filter in the transmission cooler line. Does anyone know if this ever needs to be replaced? The owner's manual doesn't mention that any action is required on it. Thanks.

ateixeira · March 2002

I would call a dealer and ask if that's part of their 60k service. If not, they probably don't ever change it.

-juice

baps · March 2002

I have a 98 Outback limited. Great car and I absolutely love it! I started hearing a gentle thud from the engine recently. Dealer says that a piston is not firing properly and the short block needs to be replaced. Its under warranty so I did't faint. Apparently there were no error codes from the computer. The dealer's diagnosis was based on experience seeing this problem before.

Is this a frequent occurrence? What causes it? Have any of you seen other engine problems crop up after this is fixed? Here's a wild observation: I used 89 octane fuel for 3.5 yers. I switched to 87 Octane 3 weeks ago. One week after that this problem started. Could that have triggered it? i can't imagine but its too much of a coincidence.

thanks for any advise.
Baps.

ateixeira · March 2002

Nah, it wasn't the octane. It's not common but not unheard of, either. If the dealer does a good job it should be reliable from that point on. It'll be documented so you're covered.

-juice

posubaru · March 2002

Any suggestions for our Subaru Liberty (Legacy) 97 AWD wagon (113000 kms)?

After 3 visits to the dealer, the engine still revs at 1200 and above at idle. The last two days it has taken to racing up to 2000 revs plus for about 20 seconds when started cold in the morning (it's still summer here in Australia!) then stalling completely. Seems ok after starting again, but still revs high after a 'pushy' drive. Any ideas?

Hi from oz!
po

cptplt · March 2002

though that usually happens wilth cars older than a 97

hypov · March 2002

Just last week, whenever Al goes over a pot hole [not the NYC crater variety] or a dip in the road, I hear this short 1/2 sec. squawk [like tire skidding] coming from the front. Like something needs greasing or tightening.
Any ideas?

TIA

-Dave

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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